Screws for window rock guards.

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by AirMiles

The first time I washed my windows, the flimsy little connections on the window guards stripped and I couldn't reattach them. Here is how I permanently fixed the window guard connections.

I basically copied the through-bolt method from the stainless steel rock guards. First I drilled out the rivets holding the rubber grommet connectors on the Airstream. Then I went to the hardware store and bought stainless steel screws, washers, and locking nuts that fit through the stripped out hole on the rubber grommet connector. One lock nut went against the washer on the rubber grommet. Then I re-riveted the grommet back on the Airstream and put the second locking nut onto the bolt after closing the window rock guard.

Now I can easily clean my windows and know they are securely attached afterwards. I highly recommend doing this improvement. These pictures are worth a thousand words.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/att...4&d=1503173972

Interesting, but it's not at all clear to me from these pictures how the back-side nut ends up being flush with the grommet? Thanks.

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by waninae39

I installed it this morning

GREAT design. Thank you!

I don't understand how the bolt is secured on the backside. Do you have any photos of that? Thanks.

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by Too tall

Just finished a version of Airmiles with a twist.
FWIIW the metal receiver located inside the rubber bumper flips out easily from the back. First drill out the rivets, turn the bumper over and use a slotted screwdriver to pop it out. Next, I used a spiked t-nut which I pressed into the rubber bumper (backside) using a large vise.
These SS screws:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These t-nuts:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With the t-nut embedded into the bumpers backside go ahead and rivet the bracket in place. A wee bit of massaging the brackets dog ears will permit it to sit flat against the Airstream surface.

Once riveted inplace use a screw and appropriate SS washer and done.

This is a VERY solid connection.

There is one further modification that I have not done yet. Once the screw length is determined mark the screw one thread beyond the window (aluminum) tab. File small flats here and that’s where my story ends. I’ll either fit the flats with a circlip or take one turn of SS wire in order to retain the screw and washer so that I don’t have to do the hula dance without dropping the screws when re-fastening the window rock guards.

That’s my story.

What size rivets? Thanks.

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by Too tall

Just finished a version of Airmiles with a twist.
FWIIW the metal receiver located inside the rubber bumper flips out easily from the back. First drill out the rivets, turn the bumper over and use a slotted screwdriver to pop it out. Next, I used a spiked t-nut which I pressed into the rubber bumper (backside) using a large vise.
These SS screws:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These t-nuts:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With the t-nut embedded into the bumpers backside go ahead and rivet the bracket in place. A wee bit of massaging the brackets dog ears will permit it to sit flat against the Airstream surface.

Once riveted inplace use a screw and appropriate SS washer and done.

This is a VERY solid connection.

There is one further modification that I have not done yet. Once the screw length is determined mark the screw one thread beyond the window (aluminum) tab. File small flats here and that’s where my story ends. I’ll either fit the flats with a circlip or take one turn of SS wire in order to retain the screw and washer so that I don’t have to do the hula dance without dropping the screws when re-fastening the window rock guards.

That’s my story.

I hope you're still happy with this- I'm going to try it tomorrow . . . I can't believe AS hasn't changed this design . . .

[Mike G]

I wouldn't do this until I have posted an update. It doesn't work well without a little modification, which I did today after running into problems

[waninae39]

look at post #14 and #18

it walks through the steps i did.
no issues at all
i keep the nut driver handy and the lock washer will never come loose

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by waninae39

look at post #14 and #18

it walks through the steps i did.
no issues at all
i keep the nut driver handy and the lock washer will never come loose

Thanks, but I'm half done doing the T-nut thing, but with modifications . . .

[Mike G]

OK- Here's what I did-
I like the T-Nut scenario, because it allows you to still tighten down on the rubber gasket, as opposed to rigid metal-on-metal. But, the prongs on the T-Nut did not want to penetrate into the back of the rubber gasket. So, I trimmed off the prongs. They aren't really necessary, because once the assembly is riveted to the trailer, it isn't going anywhere. I superglued the T-Nut in place, just to hold it during the riveting process. BUT, because the T-Nut raises the profile of the assembly, decided to add rubber gaskets to keep things flush, rather than warping the metal gasket holder. So now, I just screw in 10-24 screws, but obviously shorter ones than the 3/4" ones recommended earlier. That's obviously too long as you can see in the photo . .

[DaveP]

Never knew this was an issue. Mine work fine. Now forewarned.

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by DaveP

Never knew this was an issue. Mine work fine. Now forewarned.

No matter how gentle you are with that factory fitting, it gets stressed by the jostling of the road. They can get so mishaped, that you can't get it fastened, and then you're stuck with a loose rock guard panel. It got to the point that I was afraid to take it off to clean behind it. Airstream should redesign those fittings . . . .

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Mike G

No matter how gentle you are with that factory fitting, it gets stressed by the jostling of the road. They can get so mishaped, that you can't get it fastened, and then you're stuck with a loose rock guard panel. It got to the point that I was afraid to take it off to clean behind it. Airstream should redesign those fittings . . . .

Thats where I am now...

[riffrazor]

Originally Posted by AirMiles

Now I can easily clean my windows and know they are securely attached afterwards. I highly recommend doing this improvement. These pictures are worth a thousand words.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/att...4&d=1503173972

Thanks for these details. First time I opened them, despite knowing the 1/4 turn rule, they seemed pretty flimsy and not terribly secure.

My first time opening them was to replace the guard that had come loose at highway speed on a 7 month old AS.

[dford77]

Originally Posted by james.mileur

Hoo yah excellent picture story. [emoji106]

Thank you for this information!

[risingsun]

Did this today using #8 machine screws and all stainless hardware. Put a nylon washer between the nut against the rubber mount and the screen flange but things are fabulously secure now. Great little mod and I can swing open the screens whenever I like now, without a single worry. Bolt cutters lopped off the heads of the original 1/4-turn “screws” in an instant. Thank you, AirMiles.

Originally Posted by AirMiles

The first time I washed my windows, the flimsy little connections on the window guards stripped and I couldn't reattach them. Here is how I permanently fixed the window guard connections.

I basically copied the through-bolt method from the stainless steel rock guards. First I drilled out the rivets holding the rubber grommet connectors on the Airstream. Then I went to the hardware store and bought stainless steel screws, washers, and locking nuts that fit through the stripped out hole on the rubber grommet connector. One lock nut went against the washer on the rubber grommet. Then I re-riveted the grommet back on the Airstream and put the second locking nut onto the bolt after closing the window rock guard.

Now I can easily clean my windows and know they are securely attached afterwards. I highly recommend doing this improvement. These pictures are worth a thousand words.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...4&d=1503173972

[Ultraclassic]

Weird, mine are fine after just 22 years of use on Stella (2000 Classic)

[hdavis40]

Did my version of this fix today. First time using a rivet gun. I put the #8 panhead bolt and washer through the back, screwed a flat nut down inside the rubber grommet from the front, and secured it with loctite. I also trimmed off the end of the bolts and filed them smooth.

And I bought a 20 count pack of the nylon nuts. . . .

Thanks AirMiles for the original project post!

[Hans627]

I pretty much did what Mike G did and am happy with the mod. But either way is an improvement.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by hdavis40

Did my version of this fix today. First time using a rivet gun. I put the #8 panhead bolt and washer through the back, screwed a flat nut down inside the rubber grommet from the front, and secured it with loctite. I also trimmed off the end of the bolts and filed them smooth.

And I bought a 20 count pack of the nylon nuts. . . .

Thanks AirMiles for the original project post!

Attachment 425692

I like this mod because with the bolt sticking out you have some target to hook the window bracket.
Here's my dilemma, I opened the front stone guard and discovered one of the twist fasteners was out. I'm the only owner, so It's been this way for a long time. In my case the stone guard is curved more that the glass, so I'd have to pull the frame towards the center to reattach it. (Probably why it was left unattached at the factory or dealer). The bracket is under the center frame, so I'm not terribly worried about it flying open, but I'd like to make it right.
Sorry, the 1/4 turn Druz don't make sense here, nuts do.

Where you titled the image "Bracket against rubber", is the bracket bent? Compared to others it looks straightened out a bit. Maybe the angle of the photo?

[hdavis40]

Hi Mollysdad,

No, the bracket is not bent. The point of the photo was to show that the flat nut is screwed down inside the rubber so the bracket will sit against the rubber and not against a metal nut.

I originally wanted to have the bolt on the front, but I couldn't figure out how to attach a nut from the back and have it stay in place. Whether you go with the bolt from the front or back, I would consider the Mike G. idea with the rubber grommets. If I were starting over, I would add those to keep reduce the metal on metal stress.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by hdavis40

Hi Mollysdad,

No, the bracket is not bent. The point of the photo was to show that the flat nut is screwed down inside the rubber so the bracket will sit against the rubber and not against a metal nut.

I originally wanted to have the bolt on the front, but I couldn't figure out how to attach a nut from the back and have it stay in place. Whether you go with the bolt from the front or back, I would consider the Mike G. idea with the rubber grommets. If I were starting over, I would add those to keep reduce the metal on metal stress.

Thanks.
Maybe the best of both worlds is a combination. Your bolt + rubber washers so I can pull the bracket over the stud before attaching the nut. Mike G's system is perfect IF the stone guard frames line up with the hole in the bracket.

I just want to make it as waterproof as possible.