Screws for window rock guards.

[James3344]

Has anyone had trouble with re-tightening the screws that hold down the window rock guards after cleaning? I was able to get mine to hold, but instead of a 1/4 turn it felt like I had to turn it much more than that to get it tight. I'm not sure how these screws work so I was wondering if that was normal.

I've read in other forums that buying the longer screws can help make it easier to reinstall them. Does anyone have a link where I can buy the longer ones?

Thank you!

[overlander63]

What were you doing removing the screws in the first place? That's not how you remove the rock guards to clean them.
If you are talking about the pair of latching screws to release them, if you turned them more than a quarter turn, you destroyed the latch, and it will have to be replaced.

[AirMiles]

The first time I washed my windows, the flimsy little connections on the window guards stripped and I couldn't reattach them. Here is how I permanently fixed the window guard connections.

I basically copied the through-bolt method from the stainless steel rock guards. First I drilled out the rivets holding the rubber grommet connectors on the Airstream. Then I went to the hardware store and bought stainless steel screws, washers, and locking nuts that fit through the stripped out hole on the rubber grommet connector. One lock nut went against the washer on the rubber grommet. Then I re-riveted the grommet back on the Airstream and put the second locking nut onto the bolt after closing the window rock guard.

Now I can easily clean my windows and know they are securely attached afterwards. I highly recommend doing this improvement. These pictures are worth a thousand words.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...4&d=1503173972

[James3344]

Originally Posted by overlander63

What were you doing removing the screws in the first place? That's not how you remove the rock guards to clean them.
If you are talking about the pair of latching screws to release them, if you turned them more than a quarter turn, you destroyed the latch, and it will have to be replaced.

Yes i'm talking about the latching screws. If I destroyed the latch would they still be able to tighten down? Right now they feel pretty secure, but I felt like it was more effort than it should have been to get them tight.

[Adventure.AS]

Originally Posted by James3344

Has anyone had trouble with re-tightening the screws that hold down the window rock guards after cleaning? I was able to get mine to hold, but instead of a 1/4 turn it felt like I had to turn it much more than that to get it tight. I'm not sure how these screws work so I was wondering if that was normal.

I've read in other forums that buying the longer screws can help make it easier to reinstall them. Does anyone have a link where I can buy the longer ones?

Thank you!

Some people (including dealers) shave off some of the rubber post so that you don't have to push as much to latch the stone guard.

[waninae39]

yes

i HATE that BAD design

we and all dealers have issues

no one can get then to lock on our as 22fb

all we do now is close the side window and use the centre window from having the side windows open

[turk123]

I ordered several spares from Airstream. AS sent the entire assembly, not just the "screw". They shipped them at no charge.

They are a big pain to get to work. You really have to pay attention when you mate the "screw" with the bracket. 1/4 turn only or they break.

If you break one on a trip, you can temporarily wire them.

[James3344]

Originally Posted by turk123

I ordered several spares from Airstream. AS sent the entire assembly, not just the "screw". They shipped them at no charge.

They are a big pain to get to work. You really have to pay attention when you mate the "screw" with the bracket. 1/4 turn only or they break.

If you break one on a trip, you can temporarily wire them.

I'd like to have spares on the road as well. How did you order them and have them shipped at no charge?

[JCWDCW]

I Had trouble with my '96 so they haven't changed the design much. I doubt you have destroyed the screw. I did the same thing and once I figured out how they work the quarter turn was just fine. Have traveled 3000 miles with no issues.
JCW

[james.mileur]

Originally Posted by AirMiles

I highly recommend doing this improvement. These pictures are worth a thousand words.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...4&d=1503173972

Hoo yah excellent picture story. [emoji106]

[Streamracer]

They are called Dzus fasteners made by Southco. I ordered some a few years back direct from Southco. There are a lot of styles. southco.com

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by James3344

I'd like to have spares on the road as well. How did you order them and have them shipped at no charge?

AS Warranty folks are pretty good about sending replacment parts that fail under warranty...if you call the factory. That's assuming you have a newer model...I have had them send me a few different parts over the past 4 years...free.

[Too tall]

Just finished a version of Airmiles with a twist.
FWIIW the metal receiver located inside the rubber bumper flips out easily from the back. First drill out the rivets, turn the bumper over and use a slotted screwdriver to pop it out. Next, I used a spiked t-nut which I pressed into the rubber bumper (backside) using a large vise.
These SS screws:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These t-nuts:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With the t-nut embedded into the bumpers backside go ahead and rivet the bracket in place. A wee bit of massaging the brackets dog ears will permit it to sit flat against the Airstream surface.

Once riveted inplace use a screw and appropriate SS washer and done.

This is a VERY solid connection.

There is one further modification that I have not done yet. Once the screw length is determined mark the screw one thread beyond the window (aluminum) tab. File small flats here and that’s where my story ends. I’ll either fit the flats with a circlip or take one turn of SS wire in order to retain the screw and washer so that I don’t have to do the hula dance without dropping the screws when re-fastening the window rock guards.

That’s my story.

Originally Posted by AirMiles

The first time I washed my windows, the flimsy little connections on the window guards stripped and I couldn't reattach them. Here is how I permanently fixed the window guard connections.

I basically copied the through-bolt method from the stainless steel rock guards. First I drilled out the rivets holding the rubber grommet connectors on the Airstream. Then I went to the hardware store and bought stainless steel screws, washers, and locking nuts that fit through the stripped out hole on the rubber grommet connector. One lock nut went against the washer on the rubber grommet. Then I re-riveted the grommet back on the Airstream and put the second locking nut onto the bolt after closing the window rock guard.

Now I can easily clean my windows and know they are securely attached afterwards. I highly recommend doing this improvement. These pictures are worth a thousand words.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/att...4&d=1503173972

[waninae39]

EXCELLENT idea

I've started this project by removing the old mount
i had to flatten the threads inside the rubber mounts
drill a hole for #10 screws
i then used epoxy to hold the SS 3/4" long screw in, thus i don't need the nuts
I used west systems #105 epoxy and #206 hardener
https://www.westsystem.com/105-epoxy-resin/
after 24 house i will rivet it back on
then mount it with the nylon nus. i will keep a spare 3/8 nut driver just for the screen

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by James3344

Has anyone had trouble with re-tightening the screws that hold down the window rock guards after cleaning? I was able to get mine to hold, but instead of a 1/4 turn it felt like I had to turn it much more than that to get it tight. I'm not sure how these screws work so I was wondering if that was normal.

I've read in other forums that buying the longer screws can help make it easier to reinstall them. Does anyone have a link where I can buy the longer ones?

Thank you!

I've been very careful with mine, but the fittings are still worn. I think they are stressed when the trailer is in motion. So, I'm afraid to take mine off to clean now. And they afix the fittings with rivets, so they are not easily replaced. . . .

[Too tall]

Originally Posted by Mike G

I've been very careful with mine, but the fittings are still worn. I think they are stressed when the trailer is in motion. So, I'm afraid to take mine off to clean now. And they afix the fittings with rivets, so they are not easily replaced. . . .

Fear not the rivet removal game my friend.
The trick is to use good quality brad point drills, be steady and patient. Use the drill bits in a progressive (increasing size) manner until you have increased the drill bit size such that the rivet head spins off. Stop! Now use a skinny drift or anything about 1/8" to push the old rivet body in. The old rivet body will just fall inside the wall. Just a gentle tap will push the old rivet body away.

Replacing the rivet is much easier. If you have never used a rivet gun do some practice runs on scrap. A folded beer can is a good test pig....no offense ment to pigs.

[John&Vicki]

The right rock guard opened while underway last week. Needed replacing anyway and I found a great used one at Vintage Trailer. The crummy latch should be in the landfill by now.

[waninae39]

I installed it this morning

GREAT design. Thank you!

[Foiled Again]

Like very much. I would have chosen a wing nut and a lock washer though. I like "no tool" maintenance. Do you think that is a good idea or not?
I have learned to put pool noodles on the top edges of the side guards when parked under trees to prevent leaf build-up. Noticed some Spanish moss under mine just today and I finally found 1/4 inch screen came on Amazon so I can replace my shrunken stuff.

[waninae39]

The wing nut will jam up against the front window edge when it lowers.

instead of the lock nut, i thought of using a knob ( like use in my workshop jigs)
same problem as the wingnut, too big and bulky

i just keep a 3/8" hex driver as part of the tools.

the original AS design needed a tool anyway