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Old 07-08-2013, 10:41 AM   #1
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Rock Guard Glass Replacement

Hi-

I have a 1994 Excella 1000. The 3 piece rock guards was heavly damged in a recent hail storm. The plexi on all 3 panels needs to be replaced.

I can purchase a new for a replacement 3 piece set for $1,000 but I would rather not spend this much.

The aluminum frames are undamaged and can be reused if I can find replacement plexi.

Anyone know if you can purchase the plexi only?

Thanks in advance!

Mark
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Old 07-08-2013, 10:54 AM   #2
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I did this just recently on my Safari Rock Guard.

I purchased a 4x8' sheet of 1/8 PoliCarbonate from a local plastic manufacturer I found on the internet for about $150. My rock guard frame disassembled by drilling out 4 rivets and removing the hinge. I then used what was left of the original Plexiglass as a template and cut the PoliCarbonate with a fine tooth blade in a jigsaw. I took some trimming to get it to fit exactly how I wanted. The rubber gasket had become very hard and broke in to many pieces during disassembly. I used a tube of rubberized sealant around the new PoliCarbonate and reassembled the frame.

The results were great, and the PoliCarbonate should be much tougher than the PlexiGlass. PoliCarbonate may not be as resistant to abrasion as the Plexi, but for the cost and effort I won't mind if I have to replace it again in a few years. I bought a slightly lighter tint than the original since it was in stock. The lighter tint allows me to see better out the back window of the trailer when towing.
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:16 PM   #3
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Thanks!
Did you replace the curved side guards also?
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Old 07-08-2013, 04:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AldeanFan View Post
I did this just recently on my Safari Rock Guard.

I purchased a 4x8' sheet of 1/8 PoliCarbonate from a local plastic manufacturer I found on the internet for about $150. My rock guard frame disassembled by drilling out 4 rivets and removing the hinge. I then used what was left of the original Plexiglass as a template and cut the PoliCarbonate with a fine tooth blade in a jigsaw. I took some trimming to get it to fit exactly how I wanted. The rubber gasket had become very hard and broke in to many pieces during disassembly. I used a tube of rubberized sealant around the new PoliCarbonate and reassembled the frame.

The results were great, and the PoliCarbonate should be much tougher than the PlexiGlass. PoliCarbonate may not be as resistant to abrasion as the Plexi, but for the cost and effort I won't mind if I have to replace it again in a few years. I bought a slightly lighter tint than the original since it was in stock. The lighter tint allows me to see better out the back window of the trailer when towing.
Links? To source?
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Old 07-08-2013, 04:56 PM   #5
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Just did this repair as well. Purchased the acrylic in a darker charcoal tint for about 80 bucks cut a bit oversize from a local plastics distributor. Disassembly was mostly drilling out the rivets. In my case I painted the aluminum frame black, though I'm not sure I would repeat that. On my unit, the plastic was 1/8th thick and I was able to reuse the rubber pieces that hold it in the frame.

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Old 07-09-2013, 07:00 AM   #6
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That looks awesome! About how much for materials?
I know it's less than purchasing a replacement.

Mark
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:05 AM   #7
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Don't use Plexiglass. It's hard to cut and subject to UV degradation. Use Lexan (polycarbonate). Make sure to get the UV resistant type. There should be a plastic supply source in any city
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:31 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark910234 View Post
That looks awesome! About how much for materials?
I know it's less than purchasing a replacement.

Mark
Initially I spent 80 bucks on the replacement acrylic which would have been enough to do everything, but I ended up cracking one of the side panels (note to self, never try and rivet into the plastic) and had to pony up another 20 for an extra piece. If you want to add the cost of the paint, probably another 12 bucks or so.
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:32 AM   #9
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I had to buy a whole sheet of Lexan. I don't remember how much, but not that much. I bought it at a plastic supplier in Albuquerque. UV resistant was not in stock, neither was tinted. If I wanted either it would be a special order which would at least double the price. As it were, the non UV resistant Lexan has yellowed quite a bit over the past 5 years but does not appear to have lost any strength.

And you can drill through Lexan for rivet holes. Plexi will crack.
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Old 11-21-2013, 06:38 PM   #10
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Looks great. How did you achieve the curve in the lexan?
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:19 PM   #11
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When trying to find in Austin area, the suppliers talk to me like they are HAMs and I an a mere interrupt in their reality.

Think "Sheldon" off "Big Bang Theory" TV show.

Anyone know "friendly" supplier in Austin or Texas?

Peace
Channing
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Old 11-22-2013, 03:29 PM   #12
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Used to 'mold' curved Plastic - as I remember the temperature melding point was 345 degrees so we would put the plastic in a curved frame and heat to 340 or so - if it will fit in a kitchen oven with window - you can watch and stop the heat (open door) when it sags and fits the mold. Was easy to do - the slight bend of these rock guards probably could be done with a heat gun into a form of some sort.
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Old 11-22-2013, 03:35 PM   #13
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When heating, do you have any trouble with getting bubbles inside the lexan?
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Old 11-22-2013, 03:59 PM   #14
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"When heating, do you have any trouble with getting bubbles inside the lexan?"
No - you don't get it that hot. Bubbles come when you get it so hot that it's about to burst in to flame - past melt time, not sure what temp. that would be but probably around 400 degrees - it's petrolatum base. Only time I got bubbles was when I used a propane torch to get rid of the sandpaper scratches on edges of plex and Lexan and held it on to long (torch).
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Old 11-22-2013, 04:06 PM   #15
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P.S. to the above: In case your going to try this (propane torch on plastic), We went to a automotive heat gun instead - much better control over heat and no carbon flecks from propane.
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Old 11-22-2013, 05:03 PM   #16
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Lexan will absorb water and it is possible to bubble it, but unlikely. If unsure, put it in an oven at 200 F for a couple hours. The polycarbonate will be formable about 325F. Industrial heat guns can do it over a form. You could give it another aneal by heating it after it is in the frame. Do not expose polycarbonate to solvents or gas or it will crack.
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Old 11-22-2013, 06:54 PM   #17
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Thanks for the tips everyone. Any suggestions on what to use to make the frame?
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