Replacing your plexi glass Rock Guards / Stone Guards

[dznf0g]

Reviving this thread...looking for a check on my process....
So, I found a supplier who is not a glass shop which dabbles in plexiglass. I found a plastic molding, shaping, forming, CNC...etc manufacturer. They are primarily a commercial supplier, not a retail outlet. So I would consider them "experts".
They told me that the use of plexi vs. Polycarbonite is exactly the opposite of what I had been told by some others. I took my curved section to get their opinion. They said DEFINITELY use polycarbonate. He said that plexi might make the curve, but it is very iffy. And of course, it'll just crack again. He believes AS drapes the cut sheet over a mold and heat forms it. He said that poly should cold form without a problem...if no more than 1/8" thickness.
So, I've ordered up 2 sheets to arrive early next week from their supplier.
In the meantime I have removed the old panes, cleaned everything up and made my templates.
I have a few questions and comments:

I noted on the curved sections that their were stress cracks at the 90* corners and the radiused rear corners. I noted that the spline was very tight in these areas, and I believe that the forming of the metal frame makes the radiuses tight and the spline at the 90* corners kind of get wadded up making the turn. Also I have noted in the past that as the spline shrinks with age, it always pulls out of the corners and radius.
So, I am thinking I will cut the spline at the corners and leave the radius bends free to float. What do you all who have done this work in the past think of that idea??

Also, I am a bit apprehensive on the cutting process. I should be able to score and snap the center section, as it is a rectangle. But the curved panels will have to be all freehand.
Sabre saw? Finest tooth I can find? what speed? OR....rotozip with a plunge bit? It is only one speed....FAST.

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Reviving this thread...looking for a check on my process....
So, I found a supplier who is not a glass shop which dabbles in plexiglass. I found a plastic molding, shaping, forming, CNC...etc manufacturer. They are primarily a commercial supplier, not a retail outlet. So I would consider them "experts".
They told me that the use of plexi vs. Polycarbonite is exactly the opposite of what I had been told by some others. I took my curved section to get their opinion. They said DEFINITELY use polycarbonate. He said that plexi might make the curve, but it is very iffy. And of course, it'll just crack again. He believes AS drapes the cut sheet over a mold and heat forms it. He said that poly should cold form without a problem...if no more than 1/8" thickness.
So, I've ordered up 2 sheets to arrive early next week from their supplier.

In the meantime I have removed the old panes, cleaned everything up and made my templates.

I once took the curved panel out of a left side rock guards and installed it reversing the bent in a right side frame. I think that speaks for the ability of bending the plexiglass, unless I am totally uninformed and Airstream is not using plexiglass. Either way plexi glass worked fine for me, still looks good after 2 years and only cost 114/ sheet.

Originally Posted by dznf0g

I have a few questions and comments:

I noted on the curved sections that their were stress cracks at the 90* corners and the radiused rear corners. I noted that the spline was very tight in these areas, and I believe that the forming of the metal frame makes the radiuses tight and the spline at the 90* corners kind of get wadded up making the turn. Also I have noted in the past that as the spline shrinks with age, it always pulls out of the corners and radius.
So, I am thinking I will cut the spline at the corners and leave the radius bends free to float. What do you all who have done this work in the past think of that idea??

I stopped the spline just for that reason. After all it just hold the sheet in place.

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Also, I am a bit apprehensive on the cutting process. I should be able to score and snap the center section, as it is a rectangle. But the curved panels will have to be all freehand.
Sabre saw? Finest tooth I can find? what speed? OR....rotozip with a plunge bit? It is only one speed....FAST.

Remember the curved cuts happen with the panel still flat. So, a fine metal blade on Jig saw, while the panel is on a flat piece of wood being held down with another piece of wood should serve you well and make the job very easy

[dznf0g]

Thanks Peter. The poly is $135 a sheet...and of course I need 2 for a wide body. The shop wouldn't sell me a half sheet in bronze. They don't have much call for it. They have been mass producing covid barriers in clear for the last year +.
Anyone else out there with poly cutting experience?? In reading online it sounds like it is easier than plexi???
BTW, I'm pretty sure my 2007 has plexi, the way it cracks with stone hits...and I have used glass cleaner on it with no ill effects, unlike poly, which fogs up with ammonia exposure. A big no no.

[hhendrix]

This helped me too. A side window guard was shattered by a rock. The dealer wanted $650 for a new one. But I had read someone's thread about how the hinge pins don't always line up with the old mounts. I took mine apart and the old one to Tap Plastics. They used it as a pattern to make a new one to match. I used a belt sander to clean up some of the edges to get a better fit. Total cost with a new spline was $153.

[dznf0g]

And....its done! I can check that one off the list.
Thanks again, Peter.

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

And....its done! I can check that one off the list.
Thanks again, Peter. Attachment 396193

Nice job and probably a better fit than the Airstream supplied ones.

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by PeterH-350LE

Nice job and probably a better fit than the Airstream supplied ones.

Indeed! My old ones had some areas where there was barely enough plexi to grip the spline..in other words areas that were short. Rather than try and make adjustments to actual measurements, I went with the gain of one Sharpie width when making my templates and another Sharpie width transferring my templates to the poly. That worked perfectly for the center section. For the curved panels they ended up wide (height wise) at the end where they meet up with the center section. They were overall 1/8" too long (widthwise). So I had to remove each one a couple times and take the belt sander to custom fit them. Worked out very well.....and to those folks who say that polycarbonate won't work...... It workrd very well. No problem making that bend. It's really not stressed at all.

This particular polycarbonate manufacturer's idea of "bronze" is different than the plexi. It's quite a bit lighter tinted than OEM.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

It does not take a lot of heat to soften Plexiglass. An industrial heat gun ( = big hair dryer ) will do it easily. (it also can over do it so be careful). If you are worried about the bend and long term performance, you should be able to simply heat it up once installed.

No, I haven't tried this on an Airstream. You are on your own if you try it. I have bent an awful lot of Plexiglass this way over the years. As others have mentioned, I don't see any big reason to worry about it in the "unmodified" state.

Bob

[AlinCal]

A little feedback on Lexan, back in 2017 I replaced the original 1991 cracked and crazed Plexiglass material with Lexan thinking I was using a better product than original but that has not turned out to be the case. While Lexan my be superior in impact strength it scratches more easilly and within weeks it started looking less than great with swirl like marks that over the next few years turned into an almost opaque haze, I had some luck cleaning them up with plastic polish but never 100% and was just way too much work.
So yesterday I got started on doing it over but I will be using Plexiglass this time.
https://www.polymershapes.com/lexan-vs-plexiglass/

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by AlinCal

A little feedback on Lexan, back in 2017 I replaced the original 1991 cracked and crazed Plexiglass material with Lexan thinking I was using a better product than original but that has not turned out to be the case. While Lexan my be superior in impact strength it scratches more easilly and within weeks it started looking less than great with swirl like marks that over the next few years turned into an almost opaque haze, I had some luck cleaning them up with plastic polish but never 100% and was just way too much work.

So yesterday I got started on doing it over but I will be using Plexiglass this time.

https://www.polymershapes.com/lexan-vs-plexiglass/

Did you happen to ever use glass cleaner on them? The ammonia in windex, etc. Kills polycarbonate.

[AlinCal]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Did you happen to ever use glass cleaner on them? The ammonia in windex, etc. Kills polycarbonate.

Very possible, the interior surface was in good condition so that may be my downfall. I did read from one of the plastic supplier sites that polycarbonate does not have UV protection like acrylic does so I was thinking that was a possible cause

[hhendrix]

I asked for Lexan, but the color match wasn't good. Also no heat gun was needed to put the new plexiglass in the frame.

[Procer]

How do I replace the rock guard on a 2022 Globetrotter. Is it straightforward or do I need to take it to a dealer?

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Procer

How do I replace the rock guard on a 2022 Globetrotter. Is it straightforward or do I need to take it to a dealer?

Do you mean replace the whole unit, frame and all?? Or just fabricate new plexi?

[GettinAway]

If you are talking about the solar guard for the windows, I’d let a dealer do it. Mine is in getting replaced right now. We had a palm branch fall and land on our trailer in FL. It caught the solar guard. I thought I had it secured on the way home. However, we ran into some crazy winds and it popped loose. Swung back and creased the panel behind where it’s attached. Now the panel needs replaced too. Insurance covered it all, but it’s still a big pain in the backside to get it all done. I’m contemplating just leaving the crease in the panel behind where the solar guard attaches.

[jdm-mn]

If I want to order three pieces, instead of one 48x96 sheet, I think one could be 48x28 and the other two 48x34. This would give me room to trim to make it exact. Do you agree?

[wingingit]

What an awesome thread. We managed a baseball size hole in our center guard returning from AK this last summer. Tired of the gorilla tape patch and want to replace on our 2014 27FB Classic Limited.

We are 7 year full-timers so on road most of the time. Currently in Surprise/Phoenix area and trying to find a source for the replacement plexiglass.

I see AS is using Plaskolite Optix based on a pic I found but I have a feeling this is not available to the public...they don't sell retail either.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/G3eNBJEDUfjEQpty6

I'm fine using what Peter used if I can find... (Acry 118x48x96 2370 Paper masking) although I don't need an entire sheet...

Our frame measures 52-3/4″ x 26-5/8″ so not sure what size the piece needs to be. Ideally I'd like to get a piece cut to fit up front so I can do all at one on the road.

In a perfect world I'd like to order exact size delivered to me ... Wishful thinking I know.

If anyone has any insight or tips for my predicament in current area I'm all ears.

Thanks

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by wingingit

What an awesome thread. We managed a baseball size hole in our center guard returning from AK this last summer. Tired of the gorilla tape patch and want to replace on our 2014 27FB Classic Limited.

We are 7 year full-timers so on road most of the time. Currently in Surprise/Phoenix area and trying to find a source for the replacement plexiglass.

I see AS is using Plaskolite Optix based on a pic I found but I have a feeling this is not available to the public...they don't sell retail either.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/G3eNBJEDUfjEQpty6

I'm fine using what Peter used if I can find... (Acry 118x48x96 2370 Paper masking) although I don't need an entire sheet...

Our frame measures 52-3/4″ x 26-5/8″ so not sure what size the piece needs to be. Ideally I'd like to get a piece cut to fit up front so I can do all at one on the road.

In a perfect world I'd like to order exact size delivered to me ... Wishful thinking I know.

If anyone has any insight or tips for my predicament in current area I'm all ears.

Thanks

Assuming your measurements are outside ones:

If you deduct 1/4" from the width of your frame and deduct the balance, you should be safe. I.e. your frames are 3/4", minus 1/4" =1/2" resulting order size would 52 1/4"x 26 1/8"
This assures that the panel never can move to reveal a gap .
Plastic companies typically will charge you for a full sheet to make a cut like that.

[Tater]

Couldn't you take it to a local glass company to see what they can do? They normally can do plexiglass and if they break it they own it.

[wingingit]

Correct, outside taken myself at top and bottom and they actually match what AS lists in the description.

Thanks for the insight regarding the measurements. That helps a lot. Now to find a source.

Originally Posted by PeterH-350LE

Assuming your measurements are outside ones:

If you deduct 1/4" from the width of your frame and deduct the balance, you should be safe. I.e. your frames are 3/4", minus 1/4" =1/2" resulting order size would 52 1/4"x 26 1/8"
This assures that the panel never can move to reveal a gap .
Plastic companies typically will charge you for a full sheet to make a cut like that.