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Old 10-07-2023, 09:45 PM   #21
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Hi, I have black painted Centramatics on my trailer, so no metal to metal contact corrosion.
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Old 10-07-2023, 09:52 PM   #22
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Sometimes, I prefer ignorance.
Were steel wheels so bad that we replaced them with the slicker looking aluminum wheels (used to call them mags). I would go back to steel wheels if I could. No complications and virtually indestructible.
It's all about looks!!!

"Mag wheels" or just mag was short for Magnesium. Magnesium wheels were manufactured from an alloy that was mostly magnesium. Could be cast or forged. First used in racing because they were very light and strong at the same time. Desired properties in wheels or other un-sprung suspension parts. The down side is corrosion.

Aluminum is use for wheels and it is an alloy as well.

A better term for those wheels that looks so better would be alloys.

As to steel wheels, why not go back to those. On a trailer, there is not much reason for light weight. Steel is far more stable. It is all about looks.

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Old 10-07-2023, 11:57 PM   #23
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It seems that each wheel is to remain on the same hub and marked so it can be replaced on the hub at the same position (such as 12:00 o'clock).
Then the suggestion is to wire brush the surfaces.
This seems to make it extremely difficult to have the tires replaced at a tire shop. ....
All depends on the shop doing the work. When I had my vintage coach I took it to a heavy diesel shop which worked on fleet buses. They had a tech (Jack) who was fastidious and did amazing work. If he pulled a wheel for any reason, it was not put back on until he thoroughly wire-wheeled all the studs to make sure that the lug nuts went on smoothly and torqued properly. He also clean all mating surfaces each time. Watching him work was amazing.

But, I paid dearly for Jack's services. It takes time to be so particular about the work being done, and shops that charge a flat fee aren't going to allow their techs to spend this kind of time on things. I agreed to pay an actual hourly rate on repairs so that I could get the level of service I wanted.

And then, there is the whole concept of just learning to do things myself. When the work was things that I can do, like removing wheels on my Airstream, I do them myself. This allows me to spend all the time necessary to get it done correctly.
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Old 10-08-2023, 04:41 AM   #24
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All depends on the shop doing the work. When I had my vintage coach I took it to a heavy diesel shop which worked on fleet buses. They had a tech (Jack) who was fastidious and did amazing work. If he pulled a wheel for any reason, it was not put back on until he thoroughly wire-wheeled all the studs to make sure that the lug nuts went on smoothly and torqued properly. He also clean all mating surfaces each time. Watching him work was amazing...

People like “Jack” are cheap at half the price (and I would gladly pay it). Sadly, “Jack” is extinct.
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Old 10-08-2023, 05:12 AM   #25
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Huge controversy , on techs know the right answer
So ... what's the big secret?
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Old 10-08-2023, 05:57 AM   #26
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People like “Jack” are cheap at half the price (and I would gladly pay it). Sadly, “Jack” is extinct.
Hard to find, but not extinct. This shop has a full cadre of apprentices learning the ins and outs, all competent in their own way. I try and seek out similar shops when I need work done on my trailer or vehicles.
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Old 10-08-2023, 06:20 AM   #27
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The general public rarely pays for the kind of work "Jack" did or replacement parts of that standard. Which is why we have Walmart.

It is also why I do much of the work on my vehicles. If I am going to go back and redo the work done by a non-Jack, why bother with the trip. Sometimes I have to because of the nature of the work. Many times I end up taking some of the job apart. All of my vehicles have marked wheel studs and marked wheels.
Tire and wheel assemblies do get rotated to extend the wear. And I know where they are and have been.

BTW the suggestion above on using anti-seize, it is spot on. A thin coat on the hub face keeps wheel removal an easy thing. Especially for those that travel when snow and ice removal is in effect. Cleaning lug studs is another way of making sure the wheel is evenly attached to the hub.

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Old 10-08-2023, 09:22 AM   #28
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Hey, 40+ year auto tech here, a couple of things we did... Prepping to install new brake rotors we always cleaned the rotor as it was covered with anti-rust agent of some sort then painted the wheel bearing surface for both appearance and anti corrosion. If we had wheels off and were not replacing the rotors we had this really cool tool that was like a giant grinding wheel that we drove with one of our power tools, hollow in the center, could reface the wheel surface on the rotor in 5-10 seconds,wipe it clean and then a little shot of Wurth spray copper antiseize. Good to go. Very important here in Colorado with mag-chloride on the roads in winter. Sometimes had to beat wheels off with deadblow hammer. The grinder obviously only worked on wheels without studs which was all the euro vehicles we did. If studs then wire wheel on air grinder.
Good luck, Mark D
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Old 10-11-2023, 09:34 AM   #29
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This is a very informative and helpful post. Sadly your first sentence sets a tone you may not have wanted. Think about that for your next post. We’re here to help each other. You can contribute without embarrassing others or upsetting them. Thank you for sharing regardless. ❤️
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Old 10-11-2023, 10:54 AM   #30
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This is not unique to Airstream or Aluminum wheels. Most tire companies, like Discount Tire, always use a very stiff wire wheel to clean the surfaces for corrosion, rust and dirt.
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Old 10-12-2023, 04:05 AM   #31
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Well, I got the two wheels off and found there was some crud on both the rims and the hubs.

I sanded off the rims with a small orbital sander and used a Dremel tool to clean up the hubs and the lugs.

I spread some anti-seize on the hubs, careful to keep it off the lugs ... FYI, a little bit of that stuff goes a long way. Good to use a Q-tip around the lugs to avoid getting it where you don't want it to go.

Hard part was getting the wheels back on! I had marked the rims to align then in the same manner as they came off (not really necessary, since I cleaned both surfaces well), but ... that did not work, as the hubs moved around as I huffed and puffed and tried to get wheels on the lugs.

Tires were made in July of this year. So, I won't have to do this again until summer of 2029.
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Old 10-12-2023, 06:08 AM   #32
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I huffed and puffed and tried to get wheels on the lugs.
Just a suggestion. I keep a flat bar pry bar under my truck seat to raise/align the trailer and truck wheels that last 1/2 inch onto the lugs.
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Old 10-12-2023, 08:53 PM   #33
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Masking Tape Lug Bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhereStream View Post
I spread some anti-seize on the hubs, careful to keep it off the lugs ... FYI, a little bit of that stuff goes a long way. Good to use a Q-tip around the lugs to avoid getting it where you don't want it to go.
HINT: Masking tape the lug bolts to ensure no anti-seize gets on them.
But, the hint to use sparingly is probably just as effective.
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Old 10-14-2023, 05:08 AM   #34
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Hard to find, but not extinct. This shop has a full cadre of apprentices learning the ins and outs, all competent in their own way. I try and seek out similar shops when I need work done on my trailer or vehicles.


Good to hear. I’ll gladly pay a “living wage” to have a job done right. Only a rich man can afford to buy it twice.
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Old 10-15-2023, 05:43 AM   #35
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Just a suggestion. I keep a flat bar pry bar under my truck seat to raise/align the trailer and truck wheels that last 1/2 inch onto the lugs.
Great idea! Thanks ...
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Old 10-15-2023, 05:44 AM   #36
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HINT: Masking tape the lug bolts to ensure no anti-seize gets on them.
But, the hint to use sparingly is probably just as effective.
Masking tape ... another great idea (should have thought of that) thanks for the tip.
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Old 10-16-2023, 09:11 AM   #37
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HINT: Masking tape the lug bolts to ensure no anti-seize gets on them.
But, the hint to use sparingly is probably just as effective.
Just screw the lug nuts back on the studs before painting with anti-seize.

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