Wheels torque value too high

[SMKovalchik]

Our 2018 Wheels were over torqued. How can the torques be reduced?

Sadly the wheels on our 2018 30’ Classic were torqued too high (124) and should be at 110. How cane the torque safely be reduced?

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by SMKovalchik

Our 2018 Wheels were over torqued. How can the torques be reduced?

Back the bolts out and re-torque. You will need a 1/2" drive torque wrench and a 3/4" (if I remember correctly) socket. After doing this they should be checked at 50, 100 and 150 miles.

Unless you anticipate calling roadside service to change a flat, you should have the torque wrench on board.

Al

[mikeinca]

Based on your question, it sounds like you may not completely understand what the torque setting for your wheels is all about. It's not a programmed value, it simply refers to the amount of force used to tighten the lug bolts. If too much force/torque is used they will be overtightened which can cause them to be deformed or stretched and thereby weakened. That probably didn't happen if they were just tightened to 124 ft/lbs.

Anyway, follow Al and Missy's advice above to loosen and retighten them and you'll be fine.

[Tim A.]

If you can jack the trailer so most of the weight is off a tire, but it still touches the ground (so it won't turn), simply back off the nuts and then retorque following a recommended pattern. If you can't jack the trailer, I would loosen a nut, retorque it, and move to the next nut and continue the process.

Tim

[10Smiles]

Originally Posted by Tim A.

If you can jack the trailer so most of the weight is off a tire, but it still touches the ground (so it won't turn), simply back off the nuts and then retorque following a recommended pattern. If you can't jack the trailer, I would loosen a nut, retorque it, and move to the next nut and continue the process.

Tim

Well said!

[DCPAS]

The concern you would have with over torqued wheel is whether the wheel stud is stretched to a point which might induce failure. It seems very unlikely that harm would come from such a small over torque. Just loosen and torque correctly. Then check it after some mileage (25, 50, and 100 miles if I remember correctly) as directed in the owner's manual.

[Fungus]

Originally Posted by DCPAS

The concern you would have with over torqued wheel is whether the wheel stud is stretched to a point which might induce failure. It seems very unlikely that harm would come from such a small over torque. Just loosen and torque correctly. Then check it after some mileage (25, 50, and 100 miles if I remember correctly) as directed in the owner's manual.

^This.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

How well is your torque wrench calibrated? When was the last time you had the calibration checked? For pretty much everybody the answer to both questions is an empty beer bottle being thrown at the person asking the question

The point is: It's unlikely that your wrench (as it now exists) is much better than +/-10%. Set it to 110 and the real torque could be anything from 99 to 121. That's not saying your tool is broke or defective. It's just how this stuff works.

Next up: How do you torque a bolt properly? You run it smoothly up to the point the wrench goes click. You don't stop part way. You don't torque a bolt a second time. Why? You are after the "moving" torque. Once the bolt (or nut) stops, it takes extra force to get it moving.

Part of the deal doing this on an AS *does* involve torquing things a second and third time. Since this is an unusual thing to do, the outcome is also a bit unusual. If the bolt / nut does not move, it is *very* unclear what the torque on it is. You didn't get it moving so the outcome is in the "unknown" category. No, don't back off and do it "right" the next time. That's not why they have you do this stuff ....

As noted by many above, all this very much puts this into a "don't worry about it" category. Yes, there's more that could be gone into. It all points in the same "don't worry" direction.

Bob

[airmaine]

This leads me to ask...1. My torque wrench only tightens to 100 ft lb. Is this a problem enough to consider getting another wrench? and 2. How can I calibrate the wrench myself.

[Bill M.]

Yes, you should get a torque wrench with a higher limit than 100 for wheels. You can check calibration using a good spring balance and measuring distances. Probably not really accurately.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

How well is your torque wrench calibrated? When was the last time you had the calibration checked? For pretty much everybody the answer to both questions is an empty beer bottle being thrown at the person asking the question

The point is: It's unlikely that your wrench (as it now exists) is much better than +/-10%. Set it to 110 and the real torque could be anything from 99 to 121. That's not saying your tool is broke or defective. It's just how this stuff works.

Next up: How do you torque a bolt properly? You run it smoothly up to the point the wrench goes click. You don't stop part way. You don't torque a bolt a second time. Why? You are after the "moving" torque. Once the bolt (or nut) stops, it takes extra force to get it moving.

Part of the deal doing this on an AS *does* involve torquing things a second and third time. Since this is an unusual thing to do, the outcome is also a bit unusual. If the bolt / nut does not move, it is *very* unclear what the torque on it is. You didn't get it moving so the outcome is in the "unknown" category. No, don't back off and do it "right" the next time. That's not why they have you do this stuff ....

As noted by many above, all this very much puts this into a "don't worry about it" category. Yes, there's more that could be gone into. It all points in the same "don't worry" direction.

Bob

Also...As Bob 1 noted you do NOT check the "torque" while on the road..you check 'tightness', one tightening umph will probably do it.
Do not loosen & re-torque, you'll just have to stop again every 50mi and you'll be late at campground.

POI...never loosen a torqued fastener with your 'click' torque wench, tighten only,
it's also best not to T a hot wheel and always re-set to 0

Bob
🇺🇸

I've been torquing for awhile now...never had a properly tightened wheel loosen,

My two at home torque's and my on the road ck tightness unit.

[SMKovalchik]

It was a simple question. Yes, we know what torque value is.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by SMKovalchik

It was a simple question. Yes, we know what torque value is.

What value is it, simply?

Bob
🇺🇸

[mikeinca]

Originally Posted by SMKovalchik

It was a simple question. Yes, we know what torque value is.

That's great. When you asked "how can the torques be reduced" on your overtightened wheels you had me a bit puzzled since loosening and then re-tightening the lug bolts to the proper torque is such an obvious solution. Glad to hear there's no confusion and good luck with the fix.

[CharlesinGA]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

How well is your torque wrench calibrated? When was the last time you had the calibration checked? For pretty much everybody the answer to both questions is an empty beer bottle being thrown at the person asking the question

The point is: It's unlikely that your wrench (as it now exists) is much better than +/-10%. Set it to 110 and the real torque could be anything from 99 to 121. That's not saying your tool is broke or defective. It's just how this stuff works.

Next up: How do you torque a bolt properly? You run it smoothly up to the point the wrench goes click. You don't stop part way. You don't torque a bolt a second time. Why? You are after the "moving" torque. Once the bolt (or nut) stops, it takes extra force to get it moving.

Part of the deal doing this on an AS *does* involve torquing things a second and third time. Since this is an unusual thing to do, the outcome is also a bit unusual. If the bolt / nut does not move, it is *very* unclear what the torque on it is. You didn't get it moving so the outcome is in the "unknown" category. No, don't back off and do it "right" the next time. That's not why they have you do this stuff ....

As noted by many above, all this very much puts this into a "don't worry about it" category. Yes, there's more that could be gone into. It all points in the same "don't worry" direction.

Bob

Instead of all of this gibberish about torque wrenches and accuracy, yada yada. (and yes, I know a lot about torque wrenches, as I have used them for some 30 years at the airline I retired from, and own about 30 different ones from very tiny to huge) how about a simple suggestion for a good torque wrench that basically never looses it accuracy and in fact doesn't even need to be reset to zero. This is a perfect torque wrench for people who do not use one on a daily basis. It even has a flex head to help clear fenders and other obstacles.

Manufactured by a company that has been making torque wrenches since 1938. The Precision Instruments split Beam torque wrench. This and the 3/8 drive version are my go to torque wrenches for much of my torquing needs.

https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Ins...002XMSFIM?th=1



Another cheaper alternative is to use an electronic torque adapter. Basically does not need calibration as it maintains it accuracy so long as you do not abuse it by over torquing or loosening fasteners with it. Just keep a cheap 24 inch Harbor Freight breaker bar with it.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-Digit.../dp/B07DV33XJ5

[Boxite]

Originally Posted by SMKovalchik

It was a simple question. Yes, we know what torque value is.

I’m curious as to HOW you determined they were “over torqued” to 124..?

If you used a torque-wrench to check …by attempting to tighten further…or to release existing torque by loosening….. you may have been mis-led by the friction required to “break” the nut/bolt free.

I.E., if a lugbolt were properly torqued to 110…. it would not be surprising for it to require 124 ft lbs to break the nut free due to friction….. of a perfectly fine situation.