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Old 08-31-2017, 08:32 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

You can spend a lot of time going back and forth on the value of re-torquing (as opposed to re-tightening) nuts or bolts. There is a school of though that says a torque spec is only met if you start from "loose". In this case I'd say that's a really bad idea ....

Bob
Bob;
The proper way to torque a nut is to start, not from "loose", but snug.
THEN go all the way up, smoothly and slowly, until the wrench 'clicks'.
Use the 'Star' pattern, as you tighten them up, and then go a 'Round Robin' to confirm the bolt tensions.
Like others have said; If the wheel has been off for any reason, the general wisdom is to recheck the torques at 50, 100, 200 miles and everytime you hit the road, on a new trip.
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Old 09-01-2017, 08:40 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by MelGoddard View Post
Bob;
The proper way to torque a nut is to start, not from "loose", but snug.
THEN go all the way up, smoothly and slowly, until the wrench 'clicks'.
Use the 'Star' pattern, as you tighten them up, and then go a 'Round Robin' to confirm the bolt tensions.
Like others have said; If the wheel has been off for any reason, the general wisdom is to recheck the torques at 50, 100, 200 miles and everytime you hit the road, on a new trip.
Hi

Snug or loose is *not* the same thing as tight. If they have been torqued once before, they are neither snug nor loose ....

Bob
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:57 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

Snug or loose is *not* the same thing as tight. If they have been torqued once before, they are neither snug nor loose ....

Bob
Read the note again!
I'm talking about starting to torque up a nut, and finishing tightening it.

Obviously, one starts with a loose nut!

If one is just checking the torque, of course, you are right.
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Old 09-02-2017, 08:32 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by MelGoddard View Post
Read the note again!
I'm talking about starting to torque up a nut, and finishing tightening it.

Obviously, one starts with a loose nut!

If one is just checking the torque, of course, you are right.
Hi

Well speaking of "read the note", this is all in reference to re-torquing the bolts every 10 miles .... just saying .... (Yes I suppose it would be more fun if I used a lot of bold text and all caps)

Bob
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Old 09-02-2017, 08:19 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
hi

well speaking of "read the note", this is all in reference to re-torquing the bolts every 10 miles .... Just saying .... (yes i suppose it would be more fun if i used a lot of bold text and all caps)

bob
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Old 09-03-2017, 08:36 PM   #26
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“One test is worth a thousand 'expert' opinions”
Sign at Boeing headquarters, posted by test pilot Alvin “Tex” Johnston, c1948

"But will it work in Flin-Flon?"
Sign on the desk of Donald Douglas, after watching mechanics working on a snag on a DC-4 in Flin-Flon, Manitoba, in the dead of Winter. (Temps. Minus 'Heart Attack Blue'.)
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Old 09-03-2017, 11:09 PM   #27
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What size lug nut?

Tex is still a legend at Boeing. (I tetired after 20 at Boeing). It's an amazing culture in the engineering end of the business.
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Old 09-04-2017, 06:23 PM   #28
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Tex is still a legend at Boeing. (I tetired after 20 at Boeing). It's an amazing culture in the engineering end of the business.
I retired from DeHavilland/Bombardier in 2002, after 25 years as a Flight Service Engineer.
Our "legend" was George Neal, who was test pilot on the DHC-2 Beaver, as well as subsequent aircraft.
THIS guy was excellent 'hands & feet'; built several of his own aircraft.
Passed away last year at age older than me.
"Engineering", of course, had their own 'culture'; but that can be said for any engineering group.
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Old 09-05-2017, 11:21 AM   #29
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One of my best bosses referred to managing engineers as akin to "herding cats".
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Old 09-05-2017, 06:42 PM   #30
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One of my best bosses referred to managing engineers as akin to "herding cats".
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Old 09-05-2017, 07:13 PM   #31
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I also have four sections of 1.5 inch diameter pipe 8 inch long with pipe fittings to connect all sections
This all fits in the tool bag.
The pipe becomes the breaker bar extender.
It is always the truck wheel that the breaker bar alone will not loosen.
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Old 09-06-2017, 07:54 AM   #32
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Uncle Bob

When I say loose, they are snug but not to specs. when I check the nuts I apply even pressure until it clicks. I do this to all my Lug nuts. Why would this not be a good idea?
To suggest unsnugging all the nuts just to retighten them all is better doesn't sound like a good idea to me.That is akin to taking all the wheels off just to put them back on. The nuts that don't move click without moving. Hence tight enough. What is " not a good idea ?" Is it better not to check and leave them loose?
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Old 09-06-2017, 08:28 AM   #33
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Been replacing mine slowly

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
Is there a standard size lug nut on an Airstream?
I want to buy a socket for my breaker bar to keep handy.
Its good to have the right socket and a good long half inch drive ratchet or breaker bar. I have a four-way lug wrench I keep in the truck.
I have been buying the Mcgard 'premium' triple nickel-chrome lug nuts,
part number 64010.
They are 1/2"x20, and I just checked 3/4" hex socket fits.
The good thing is, the same nut that fits the AS also fits both of my Jeeps. I have been replacing those too along with the AS, because the Jeeps came with those 'BS' two-piece lug nuts.
I get the tall Mcgard 'acorn-type' ( 64010) to make sure they are deep enough not to bottom out on the studs.
They are heavy duty.
hope this helps, stay safe out there.
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Old 09-06-2017, 08:49 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milo1952 View Post
Uncle Bob

When I say loose, they are snug but not to specs. when I check the nuts I apply even pressure until it clicks. I do this to all my Lug nuts. Why would this not be a good idea?
To suggest unsnugging all the nuts just to retighten them all is better doesn't sound like a good idea to me.That is akin to taking all the wheels off just to put them back on. The nuts that don't move click without moving. Hence tight enough. What is " not a good idea ?" Is it better not to check and leave them loose?
If you insist on a torque wench......
Note the last paragraph

Bob
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Old 09-06-2017, 10:23 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Milo1952 View Post
when I check the nuts I apply even pressure until it clicks. I do this to all my Lug nuts. Why would this not be a good idea?
To suggest unsnugging all the nuts just to retighten them all is better doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
Well, a torque wrench only works in the "tighten" direction.
If you already have the correct torque, the wrench won't indicate anything, so you have overtightened them. To avoid this, people loosen the nuts a little, then tighten them until it clicks.
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Old 09-06-2017, 01:54 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mollysdad View Post
Well, a torque wrench only works in the "tighten" direction.
If you already have the correct torque, the wrench won't indicate anything, so you have overtightened them. To avoid this, people loosen the nuts a little, then tighten them until it clicks.

Well thats factually untrue....both mine work in both directions. Notice the on/off on the Snap-on and the scale on both sides of the beam on the BluePoint.

Bob
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Old 09-07-2017, 08:12 AM   #37
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Hi

You have static friction and dynamic friction. Basic physics. Your torque specs are all written or a "moving" bolt (dynamic friction). Once you get them down, they are stationary. If you put a torque wrench on them it will read the static friction. That is inevitably higher than what it would be in motion. Re-torquing a bolt may be fun. It can make you feel good. If it does not move, you really don't know a lot about it's state.

Bob
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Old 09-10-2017, 06:24 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
hi

you have static friction and dynamic friction. Basic physics. Your torque specs are all written or a "moving" bolt (dynamic friction). Once you get them down, they are stationary. If you put a torque wrench on them it will read the static friction. That is inevitably higher than what it would be in motion. Re-torquing a bolt may be fun. It can make you feel good. If it does not move, you really don't know a lot about it's state.

Bob
true!😉
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Old 09-17-2017, 12:02 PM   #39
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What's the best way to determine the proper amount of torque?
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Old 09-17-2017, 05:10 PM   #40
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What's the best way to determine the proper amount of torque?
The owners manual tells you. I just looked at the 2017 FC and for aluminum wheels it is 110 lb-ft and for steel wheels it is 100. It's in the table with all the dimensions
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