Torquing wheels

[TerriPeter]

We are getting used to our 25’ 2023 international FC and preparing for a 2 week test trip followed by a 3 month trip. Our AS service guy very strongly urges us to torque our trailer wheels before we drive each day. What are your thoughts and practices?

[sfranklin]

Originally Posted by TerriPeter

We are getting used to our 25’ 2023 international FC and preparing for a 2 week test trip followed by a 3 month trip. Our AS service guy very strongly urges us to torque our trailer wheels before we drive each day. What are your thoughts and practices?

Checking torque is essential with alum rims. If the tire is removed for any reason, you should check the torque at the first 50-100 miles, then I would say from there every 800-1000 miles. The lug nuts on alum rims tend to back off a bit. I have done the torque as I've suggested and I do find some lug nuts are less than the required torque setting. As I get closer to 1000 miles, the number of looser lug nuts is diminished, but to torque them at the start of each day can be a bit excessive, even for an OCD person like me.

[Hans627]

I agree with and pretty much do what "sfranklin" recommends.

From a Google search, "According to Airstream recommendations, you should tighten your Airstream wheels before every trip and re-check the torque at 10, 25, and 50 miles after replacing a wheel, as the aluminum wheels can cause lug nuts to loosen during the initial towing miles; always use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness."

[ROBERT CROSS]

POI...you are NOT re-torqueing.

You are checking tightness using the oomph method at 10,25.50.

If they are loose, back off and re-torque.

We oomph before & during every trip.




Bob
🇺🇸

[Aironius]

You certainly should carry a good quality 4-way lug wrench, the longer the handles the better. Tighten the lugs snug while on the jack, then set the tires on the ground and crank them as tight as you can with the 4-way wrench. A torque wrench is not really necessary if you have good arm strength, just go until they won't turn any more. After installing wheels, it is a good idea to re-check them for tightness after driving a bit. Re-tighten them after 100 miles or so and you may find a loose one or two before they cause trouble. Once rechecked a time or two it should be good until they are removed again for whatever reason. Repeat the process if that happens.

[JeffKim]

I really, really would not use a 4-way in place of a torque wrench. It seems like a lot of guesswork. We have this one which isn't too cheap at $55 but is really nice quality and will last forever. It's also like a breaker bar in length, so no trouble getting nuts off.

Checking every day seems extreme to me. Ordinarily I check at the start of maybe every other trip and hardly ever have had to tighten, so I could get by with less checking, but then it hardly takes much time. I carry our torque wrench with us just in case we have to change a tire.

[PaulBristol]

I agree with those who say to use a torque wrench on aluminum wheels. Over torquing is easier with aluminum and can cause damage. My brand new aluminum wheels had several "low" torque lugs after 100 miles from the dealer.


Not the same as using steel wheels. Person needs to be much stronger to over torque steel. Yes the studs can be pulled out.

[CharlesinGA]

Originally Posted by JeffKim

I really, really would not use a 4-way in place of a torque wrench. It seems like a lot of guesswork. We have this one which isn't too cheap at $55 but is really nice quality and will last forever. It's also like a breaker bar in length, so no trouble getting nuts off.

Checking every day seems extreme to me. Ordinarily I check at the start of maybe every other trip and hardly ever have had to tighten, so I could get by with less checking, but then it hardly takes much time. I carry our torque wrench with us just in case we have to change a tire.

Please don't use the torque wrench to break loose lugnuts (or anything else). They are not designed for that. Carry a breaker bar for that purpose.

While rather pricey now, this Precision Instruments split beam, flex head, ½ inch square drive, torque wrench is one of the best you can get. Its easy to set, and has no springs to get damaged so zeroing the tool is not necessary and it won't be harmed if you forget. We had these at the airline I worked for and the guys in the calibration room said they never found one that was out of calibration.

If you don't want to carry a long breaker bar with you, get one of the telescoping bars, usually collapse to about 16 inches and extend to 24 inches.

Charles

[JeffKim]

Originally Posted by CharlesinGA

Please don't use the torque wrench to break loose lugnuts (or anything else). They are not designed for that. Carry a breaker bar for that purpose.

I see your point if I were to jump on it. But since the bar is rated to 250 ft lbs and the nuts are supposed to be 110 ft lbs, I would think it should in most circumstances that would be enough force to get bulky lug nuts off.

[SlowPokePete]

To preserve the accuracy of a torque wrench, it is probably best to not use it to break (loosen) your lug nuts.

And the advice above, to not use a torque wrench on something that is designed to be tightened to a specific torque value, is not good advice.

SPP

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by CharlesinGA

Please don't use the torque wrench to break loose lugnuts (or anything else). They are not designed for that. Carry a breaker bar for that purpose.

While rather pricey now, this Precision Instruments split beam, flex head, ½ inch square drive, torque wrench is one of the best you can get. Its easy to set, and has no springs to get damaged so zeroing the tool is not necessary and it won't be harmed if you forget. We had these at the airline I worked for and the guys in the calibration room said they never found one that was out of calibration.

If you don't want to carry a long breaker bar with you, get one of the telescoping bars, usually collapse to about 16 inches and extend to 24 inches.

Charles

Guess what...I checked Dad's 'spring bar' with my Snap-on. Still good after 80yrs.

Neither are carried in the AS.

YMMV

Bob
🇺🇸

[Daquenzer]

I am kind of lazy. My son works for Milwaukee tools, and I bought a powered impact tool for undoing the lug nuts (got it cheap). Just can’t torque it down with it, since it goes to 250lbs and easy to over torque it. I got a chance to use it when my son had to change brakes and used it to loosen lugs. Nice and quick. I just remember changing tires on the road when I had a flat a few times, and sometimes lug nuts are really on their tight.

[waninae39]

15" wheels 110 ft-lb
16" wheels 120 ft-lb

[link2dks]

Originally Posted by waninae39

15" wheels 110 ft-lb
16" wheels 120 ft-lb

Owners manual for my 2023 30' Classic's 16" aluminum wheels says 110 ft-lbs
My previous 2019 27' Globetrotter's 15" aluminum wheels also called for 110 ft-lbs

I always use the 5,25,50 mile recommended torque check after the wheels have been remounted. Additionally Airstream's owners manual recommends checking the torque "Before each trip" not daily.

I will say that after 8 years and over 40,000 miles of Airstreaming I have never found a loose lug nut after the initial 5,25,50 mile check. YMMV


Dave S

[AgBullet]

Every day? No way. Prior to a trip, good advice.

[NevadaGeo]

Originally Posted by Aironius

You certainly should carry a good quality 4-way lug wrench, the longer the handles the better. Tighten the lugs snug while on the jack, then set the tires on the ground and crank them as tight as you can with the 4-way wrench. A torque wrench is not really necessary if you have good arm strength, just go until they won't turn any more. After installing wheels, it is a good idea to re-check them for tightness after driving a bit. Re-tighten them after 100 miles or so and you may find a loose one or two before they cause trouble. Once rechecked a time or two it should be good until they are removed again for whatever reason. Repeat the process if that happens.

For those that have forgotten their Physics class: 100 ft lbs of torque is 100 lbs pushing down at 1 foot from the socket. 1 foot, 100 lbs. Or, 50 lbs down at 2 feet. or 33 lbs at 3 feet.
Here's a simple torque tool to put on your ratchet wrench:
https://www.amazon.com/ANPUDS-7-38-1...2&sr=8-34&th=1

[jcl]

Originally Posted by NevadaGeo

For those that have forgotten their Physics class: 100 ft lbs of torque is 100 lbs pushing down at 1 foot from the socket. 1 foot, 100 lbs. Or, 50 lbs down at 2 feet. or 33 lbs at 3 feet.

If we went back to physics class we would be reminded that torque is measured in lb-ft, and that ft-lb is a measure of energy.

[CRH]

Originally Posted by Daquenzer

I am kind of lazy. My son works for Milwaukee tools, and I bought a powered impact tool for undoing the lug nuts (got it cheap). Just can’t torque it down with it, since it goes to 250lbs and easy to over torque it. I got a chance to use it when my son had to change brakes and used it to loosen lugs. Nice and quick. I just remember changing tires on the road when I had a flat a few times, and sometimes lug nuts are really on their tight.

Look into a set of torque sticks.

[NevadaGeo]

Originally Posted by jcl

If we went back to physics class we would be reminded that torque is measured in lb-ft, and that ft-lb is a measure of energy.

Now give us the full explanation how that changes what I posted. I have never seen torque listed as lb-ft.
Thank You

[jcl]

Originally Posted by NevadaGeo

Now give us the full explanation how that changes what I posted. I have never seen torque listed as lb-ft.
Thank You

If you apply a 100 lb force to a 1 foot long bar, that creates a torque of 100 lb-ft.

If you raise a weight of 100 lbs one foot, you have done 100 ft-lbs of work. You could also drop that 100 lb weight from a height of one foot, hopefully not on your foot, and it would have 100 ft-lbs of energy.

Torque isn't the same as work or energy.

People generally confuse the two, and if you just want to think about the spec of 100, and disregard the units, you wouldn't be the only one.

But if you go back to physics class, as you noted, then it would matter.

Personally, I use N-m for torque specs on wheels.