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01-25-2012, 02:53 PM
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#1
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Joe
2007 27' Safari FB SE
Ft Wright
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 17
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Repack Wheel Bearings in Cincinnati, OH
Looking for a good company to repack the wheel bearings on my 2006 25' FB Safari. Don't want to cart it all the way to Jackson Center, but want a job I can trust. Thanks
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01-25-2012, 02:58 PM
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#2
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Moderator dude

1966 26' Overlander
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,597
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You could always do it your self. It isn't a difficult job just messy.
>>>>>>>>>>>Action
__________________
1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - Still Streamless. But have brand X TT.
1966 Lincoln 4 door Convertible 462 4V 1971 Ford LTD Convertible 429 4V Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
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01-25-2012, 03:06 PM
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#3
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Site Team

2002 25' Safari
Dewey
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 15,720
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There is nothing magic about Airstream wheel bearings. I do mine and it is a messy job. Any competent RV shop can do the job.
__________________
Richard
Wally Byam Airstream Club 7513
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01-25-2012, 03:19 PM
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#4
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4 Rivet Member 
1997 25' Safari
Yakima
, Washington
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 424
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You can take a little of the mess out of it and use a tool that I have purchased from Matco Matco Tools Online Tool Catalog just type wheel bearing packer in the search box. It is easy to use and does a good job of it.
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01-25-2012, 03:29 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master 
1977 27' Overlander
Trotwood
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,153
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Johohe
Check and see if TOM RAPER still has a place in Fairfield.I know they had a sales place but Im not sure about a service department. But any compenent rv shop can do it. I'm just not sure about the availablity of the seals at just any Rv shop.I think It would be worth your time to call Jackson Center and make an appointment. NOW would be a good time they are not to busy. Take it up there and wait for it. It dont take long and they surely with have on hand what ever it needs.
__________________
Roger & MaryLou
___________________
F350 CREWCAB SW LONG BED
7.3 liter Power Stroke Diesel
1977 27ft OVERLANDER
KA8LMQ
AIR # 22336 TAC- OH-7
May your roads be straight and smooth and may you always have a tailwind!
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03-01-2012, 12:19 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master 
1978 28' Ambassador
Morada
, California
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,584
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I picked up one of these neat bearing grease packers this week at Harbor Freight:
Bearing Grease Packer - Save on this Bearing Grease Packer
It appears that the clear case is made out of polycarbonate to stand the abuse...you unscrew the top blue 't' handle part, pop in the bearing, reattach the 't' handle part and shoot some grease into the packer through the zerk fitting in the top of the 't' handle...
The design contains the grease away from contaminates when it's in storage...
__________________
Ray & Pat; Morada, CA
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03-01-2012, 05:39 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master 
Vintage Kin Owner
Lin
, Ne
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,430
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03-01-2012, 06:33 AM
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#8
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Silver Mist
Currently Looking...
Riverhead
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,011
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First it is simple, if you can change a tire you can pack your bearings.
No tools needed to pack!
put a small amount of grease into a zip lock bag, pop the bearing in.
Now work the grease into all the rollers, no mess.
__________________
Bob
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03-01-2012, 03:40 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master 
Vintage Kin Owner
Lin
, Ne
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LI Pets
First it is simple, if you can change a tire you can pack your bearings.
No tools needed to pack!
put a small amount of grease into a zip lock bag, pop the bearing in.
Now work the grease into all the rollers, no mess.
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Right Bob, but using a bearing packer stores grease for future bearing repacks and it will eliminate wasted grease which is good for me because I use tubes of gease that costs $12 a tube.
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03-01-2012, 04:31 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master 

, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LI Pets
First it is simple, if you can change a tire you can pack your bearings.
No tools needed to pack!
put a small amount of grease into a zip lock bag, pop the bearing in.
Now work the grease into all the rollers, no mess.
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I like that. When done, you can snip one corner of the baggie and squeeze the extra grease into the hub or back into the tub. No waste. Just like decorating a cake.
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03-01-2012, 04:41 PM
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#11
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Moderator dude

1966 26' Overlander
Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 7,597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
I like that. When done, you can snip one corner of the baggie and squeeze the extra grease into the hub or back into the tub. No waste. Just like decorating a cake.
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Now that is pretty cool!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
__________________
1966 Mercury Park Lane 4 DR Breezeway 410 4V, C-6, 2.80 - Still Streamless. But have brand X TT.
1966 Lincoln 4 door Convertible 462 4V 1971 Ford LTD Convertible 429 4V Phoenix ~ Yeah it's hot however it's a dry heat!
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03-01-2012, 05:13 PM
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#12
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"Cloudsplitter"

2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,335
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Old school... palm of the hand...
New school...palm of the latex gloved hand...
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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03-11-2012, 01:04 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master 
1978 28' Ambassador
Morada
, California
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,584
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I'm retracting my recommended 'suggestion' in post #6 above - the: Bearing Grease Packer - Save on this Bearing Grease Packer
I tackled the packing of our wheel bearings yesterday - tried using the contraption above - it's a BIG piece of CRAP!!! It's now a candidate for landfill!
You unscrew the top, place the bearing inside, replace the top and begin pumping grease into the unit via the Zerk on top...then you pump some more...then you pump some more - almost a complete cartridge to fill that mother up...Then you unscrew the top and there the bearing is, in the middle of a 'tub' of grease...by the time you get the bearing out of that 'blob', you've got both hands covered in grease!
After that first 'experience', I quickly went back to packing the bearings with the 'palm' method, which I've done all my life - effective, quick, and no wasted grease! - Long live the 'Palm' method...
BTW, the bearing repacking was brought about by the failure of two of the Kodiac oil-bath seals that I had put on the new axles when I installed em'...What a mess - had to replace three pairs of brake shoes - the two that were covered in oir, and the third that was almost worn out due to doing most of the braking the others weren't providing!
What a mess, cleaning up the two brakes/hubs that were covered in rear-axle-like smelly oil - yeah the bearings were like new, well lubed, and everything else was also like new, 'preserved' in oil!
Live and learn...The basic old grease packed wheel bearing technologies are best left alone!
__________________
Ray & Pat; Morada, CA
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03-11-2012, 03:09 PM
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#14
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"Cloudsplitter"

2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,335
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Ray,
Did you go old school palm or new?
Like Dad used to tell me....Keep it stupid, simple.
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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03-11-2012, 05:17 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master 
Vintage Kin Owner
Lin
, Ne
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mexray
I'm retracting my recommended 'suggestion' in post #6 above - the: Bearing Grease Packer - Save on this Bearing Grease Packer
I tackled the packing of our wheel bearings yesterday - tried using the contraption above - it's a BIG piece of CRAP!!! It's now a candidate for landfill!
You unscrew the top, place the bearing inside, replace the top and begin pumping grease into the unit via the Zerk on top...then you pump some more...then you pump some more - almost a complete cartridge to fill that mother up...Then you unscrew the top and there the bearing is, in the middle of a 'tub' of grease...by the time you get the bearing out of that 'blob', you've got both hands covered in grease!
After that first 'experience', I quickly went back to packing the bearings with the 'palm' method, which I've done all my life - effective, quick, and no wasted grease! - Long live the 'Palm' method...
BTW, the bearing repacking was brought about by the failure of two of the Kodiac oil-bath seals that I had put on the new axles when I installed em'...What a mess - had to replace three pairs of brake shoes - the two that were covered in oir, and the third that was almost worn out due to doing most of the braking the others weren't providing!
What a mess, cleaning up the two brakes/hubs that were covered in rear-axle-like smelly oil - yeah the bearings were like new, well lubed, and everything else was also like new, 'preserved' in oil!
Live and learn...The basic old grease packed wheel bearing technologies are best left alone! 
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Thats what happends when you buy a china copy of this.
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more
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03-11-2012, 05:32 PM
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#16
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"Cloudsplitter"

2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,335
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"Thats what happends when you buy a china copy of this."
No tanks....KISS
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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03-11-2012, 05:44 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master 
Vintage Kin Owner
1977 31' Excella 500
Berkeley Springs
, West Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,638
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I do it the OLD SCHOOL way. Get six new seals at NAPA before the job, then do it. It sux, but it works. I guess I could use the latex....but the old school way works fine.
Lotsa luck!
__________________
- Jim
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03-11-2012, 05:47 PM
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#18
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Rivet Master 
1981 27' Excella II
mays landing
, South Jersey
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,179
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I figured out how to do it without getting all greasy. I get either o ne of my sons to do it. Sal.
__________________
Sal & Nora
Let us live so that when we die even the undertaker will be sorry. Mark Twain
AIR 42483
TAC N.J. 17
WBCCI 24740
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03-11-2012, 06:30 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master 
2005 30' Classic
Burlington
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
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I always do a repack just by packing the grease into the races by hand - no big deal.
I think that putting a whole cartridge full of grease into one hub as someone mentioned could be inviting problems. No need for that much grease.
I don't speak from experience in that regard but I have heard that too much grease can cause the grease to overheat, fluidize (if that is a word) and runout past the grease seals.
Possible for someone doing this for the first time, the biggest challenge might be getting the new grease seals back in place properly.
Most sources recommend installing new seals each time and I generally do that. Getting them in properly is just a matter of gently tapping them in squarely with a hammer and a suitable block of wood - all pretty easy.
Once re-assembled tighten the nut hand gently with a large crescent wrench, then back off one flat on the nut so you can get the cotter pin in place and you are good to go!
You'll possibly save up to $200 and know it is done properly!
You can find many websites that will give more detail and give you confidence if it is your first attempt.
Incidentally, if you have two axles on your trailer, then rather than mess with jacks, just run one wheel up onto those stacking blocks, assembled in a pyramid, and the adjacent wheel will be hanging in the air ready to remove! I would suggest breaking the lugnuts slightly loose first - easier than when the wheel is spinning free in mid air!
Brian (Currently in melbourne Fla!)
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell
2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
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03-11-2012, 07:22 PM
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#20
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Rivet Master 
1978 28' Ambassador
Morada
, California
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,584
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Robert,
I'd say, before packing wheel bearings with the 'Palm Method', if one had any hair in their palm, it would be prudent to shave first lest some get caught in the rollers...
__________________
Ray & Pat; Morada, CA
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