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Old 04-07-2021, 04:19 PM   #61
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I have some of those stones, but my experience with them is that they are pretty mild. What I need is a diamond stone for dremel. Never seen such a thing.
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Old 04-07-2021, 04:23 PM   #62
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Wait! Hello.....

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Grind...7834080&sr=8-4
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Old 04-07-2021, 04:38 PM   #63
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Remember one notch should be all you need.
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Old 04-07-2021, 04:44 PM   #64
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Remember one notch should be all you need.
In your dissected bearing above, what's the greenish ring out towards the OD?
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Old 04-08-2021, 06:31 AM   #65
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Rich,

The greenish ring is actually a sorta white plastic with green grease. It's the cage that separates the rollers from touching each other.

Now for the Rollerectomy details.

I did my grinding on the bench so lots easier than what your situation is. But Notice the size of the notch it takes out the TIM in Timken for width and the notch goes down to the roller race surface. 1st and 4th pics illustrate the notch.

The cage fortunately is easy to cut with a razor Xacto blade and take out the retainer see 2nd pic. In my example I just used a magnetic retriever and slipped the roller out. Then you would cut the next retainer, rotate to notch, extract and repeat. I bet when you get a bunch of them out it's will tilt enough and just extract and remove hub with a grunt to pop the opposite side seal.

Now for the unknowns. This only removed the hub and outer race of bearing. Both inner races will still be on the axle and that's where your choice becomes apply heat and pop race off or grind thru to almost touching axle shaft and the race should be removable as the grinding thinned the race and warmed up that local area. Dremel cut off wheel type might be the tool to get right down to the axle. It's in your hands at that step.

Yes risk of dinging the axle exists with grinding its in the hands of the grinder at that time. I personally did the grinding on my VW hub to remove the old race. It's doable.

Gary
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Old 04-08-2021, 06:37 AM   #66
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Wow Gary, Thanks. Since it's only 8:30AM out there right now, this grinding must have been pretty easy?? Is your stone just a conventional stone, or something more aggressive?
Thanks again for your suggestions and help!!
My puller is on the FedEx truck for delivery, so maybe by this afternoon, I'll have resolution or direction for next steps.
It's rainy here today, so I may have a lot of "time outs".
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Old 04-08-2021, 07:11 AM   #67
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Bob

The race is hardened I assumed. The Stone is just a med grit grinding wheel. Nothing fancy.

You have Dremel, got something to test grind with? Make sparks.

Remember I had advantage of bench. But if you are successful return Hyd puller and ponder next moves.

Fixing lawnmower next. Yuck

Gary
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Old 04-08-2021, 02:13 PM   #68
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Well, I have much JOY to report....and a bit of a mystery.
The hydraulic puller came, during a rain delay.
Later I went out and installed it on the hub...and....no joy! I had so much pressure on it I was afraid I was going to bend the handle, so I stopped.

Went the route Gary suggested and drilled out the front inner race lip and pulled out all the rollers and cage.

I reinstalled the hydraulic puller and on the first stroke after seating the plunger, the whole rest of the assembly started to move...no "pop" or nothing. It was still tight, but a smooth pull all the way off. That is the first mystery. What changed just by removing the rollers? Nothing I can think of.

Upon inspection, there is no sign of any galling, spinning of the race, but there is a weird black material in the spindle/bearing assembly interface.

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And on the inner bearing race.

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This material could not be cut with brake clean and the new bearing would no slide on over it. I cleaned the spindle up with emery cloth.

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And the new bearing fits well. If you blow up the 3rd pic, you can see some pitting (from corrosion?) but no evidence of any galling nor spinning. Does this high carbon steel rust black??

As a side note, as I said way up front, the assembly spun normally upon first inspection....but I now cannot get the rear bearing to spin at all. It is full of red rust when flooded with brake cleaner. But I have been pulling forcefully, and beating the whole thing a lot, so not sure it is related to an original fault....except for the rust.

Is it possible this thing was just starting to fail rollers in the last couple miles of an 8900 mile trip and I just happen to catch it right before things got really bad? Is the black material cooked anti seize?

Anyway, off in the morning to a shop to press out and press in and I'm all good. Thanks far everyone's help....especially Gary.
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Old 04-08-2021, 02:42 PM   #69
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I think you made a "good catch" to get this done before it failed on the road.
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Old 04-08-2021, 03:14 PM   #70
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i think you made a "good catch" to get this done before it failed on the road.
ya think!
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Old 04-08-2021, 04:24 PM   #71
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Rich,

First, really glad you got it off. Period.

I just took another look at my used hub/bearing. Without the rollers in the outboard bearing to my eyes it looks like the only mechanical connection from the force of the hub being bulled away is the shield and that's nothing. The inboard bearing has no locking force cup to cone it just separates.

I do not have a theory but the results are in, it's apart.

OK curiosity time.

How'd the notch grinding go?
Part number for your snap ring pliers?
Your choice for the part number for your new bearing?

Congrats Rich.

Gary

EDIT Big swag possible locking theory. I'll share with Rich first.
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Old 04-08-2021, 04:33 PM   #72
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Notch grinding was really a piece of cake. Getting the pieces of plastic cage cut and picked out was more tedious than the metal work.
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Old 04-08-2021, 04:34 PM   #73
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https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER3152

Snap ring pliers. Pricey, bit really good and they ratchet and hold position.
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Old 04-08-2021, 04:36 PM   #74
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https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bearing number
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Old 04-08-2021, 05:20 PM   #75
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That is also where I purchased the spare bearing I carry. I vacuum packed it with the extra snap rings and both of the snap ring pliers required. If I ever have a failure on the road, all I have to do is find someone with a press.

Unless the bearing sticks to the spindle like yours, then all bets are off
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Old 04-08-2021, 05:21 PM   #76
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That is also where I purchased the spare bearing I carry. I vacuum packed it with the extra snap rings and both of the snap ring pliers required. If I ever have a failure on the road, all I have to do is find someone with a press.

Unless the bearing sticks to the spindle like yours, then all bets are off
Oh, thanks for reminding me. Those pliers need to be stowed onboard!
I used my spare bearing for this repair. The Amazon order is for the road kit.
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Old 04-08-2021, 06:57 PM   #77
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Nice job, Rich (and Gary)!!
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Old 04-09-2021, 08:18 AM   #78
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Good Job!
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Old 04-10-2021, 05:44 PM   #79
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Never Lube Bearing Question

I got inspired by this thread to pull the tires and hubs to inspect the brakes, for the first time ever in seven years. My 2013 trailer has about 40,000 miles and also has the Never Lube bearings.

Like dznf0g I had a hard time getting one hub off. But after some time hammering, tapping and yanking, it came loose. I noticed the grease on the spindle between the bearing had turned mostly to paste. I think maybe the brake dust might have thicken things up.

My question to those who know about these bearings is about the 1/8" +/-gap between the inner and outer race as shown in the photo's. Is this normal? I wondering if the force needed to pull it off the spindle somehow messed it up, hoping not. Tapping lightly on the outer ring part it would slide back into the hub. Maybe the two parts join back together when back on the spindle and the large 42mm nut is tightened. Anyway that's what I did and put the wheel back on.

Also, notice the strange swirling black coloring. It on the spindle shaft too and won't wipe off with a towel. Any idea what that's about? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
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Old 04-10-2021, 05:53 PM   #80
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A little discoloring between spindle and the mating bearing race is nothing to be concerned about.
NO, the bearing halves should not separate like that. There is a thin seal between those halves which is compromised. I suspect the goop on the spindle is grease. Anti seize compound does not get thick or goopy.
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