Lost wheel and rim - may need new axle. Help sourcing Please.

[Ntex]

On I-10, trailer swerved. Stopped and found our brand new SenDel wheel gone. New lug nuts appear to be sheared off. Luckily were able to limp half mile to Flying J in El Paso on 3 wheels. They are being helpful and think we may need a new axle. If so, any chance we will find a suitable one locally? There is a Camping World here. For our 2004 Classic, how do we find out what axle we need. Check the book? Call Airstream? I will search the forum too but thought someone out there might have advice. When our adventure is over, I will get my husband to post about the necessity of checking lug nuts frequently.

[Ntex]

Oops..should have posted this in the axle section...feel free to move it.

[timmaah]

Lug nuts attach to posts on the drum which can be replaced separately of the axle.

I believe the axles are made by Dexter and may take 6 to 8 weeks to get one shipped to the location. The last person I know who needed a new axle got one built by a local axle shop.

[Skatiero]

I'm so sorry that happened to you! We got our new axles from Colin Hyde and had a great experience.

[Melody Ranch]

Get an expert opinion. Camping World or Flying J is not a place I would look. Call Airstream, Inland RV,(Andy) etc. Once you get their input you can probably get one on that area. An axel can also be ordered and installed by good trailer shops...ie., horse trailer dealers in that part of Texas. Much cheaper than RV dealership, for the most part, and usually a full service. Th
ey deal in 75,000$ trailers everyday. Don't discount suitable replacement axles. They come with complete assemblies...axle, brakes and hubs. Southwest Axle and Redneck RV Supply. Overnight from Dallas.

Then....you can travel some distance on three tire/wheels/. Just monitor your conditions.

[Jim Foster]

You should be able to remove the drum. Drive out the broken studs, drive in new studs, install new wheel and new lug nuts and be on your way. If the stud holes are damaged, you may have to replace the drum, which will come with new studs.

[xrvr]

Too much torque?

[Ntex]

Too much? Or too little? Had them installed at local tire shop in Austin. Told them to use 125 torque. But never checked it and didn't check it after a day on the road. Lets just say there was operator error in failing to check.

[switz]

The suggestion is after every lug nut removal is to check torque at 10, 20 and 50 miles and then daily.

[RLS]

From our 2004 classic manual:

WARNING: It is also important to periodically check on the tightness of lug nuts. On
aluminum wheels they should he tightened to a torque of 85 ft. pounds. Steel wheels should be torque
to 95 Ft. Lbs. Care should he taken at all times when handling the wheel because of possible damage
to its appearance.

[TG Twinkie]

125# of torque sounds like too much.
80-90# sounds more in the ball park for torque.
Are the holes in the rim best up? Are the rims steel?
If aluminum. Are you using the correct lug nuts?

[panheaddale]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

125# of torque sounds like too much.
80-90# sounds more in the ball park for torque.
Are the holes in the rim best up? Are the rims steel?
If aluminum. Are you using the correct lug nuts?

I pull campers out of Elkhart IN. When we pick up a new camper we have to torque lug nut and they use sendel wheels which we are required to torque to 120#. We have to torque when we pick up, 25 miles and at 50 miles and their are usually a few of the lug nut that have loosened up. If we don't torque and something happens we are liable for damages. 125# is right on the money

[panheaddale]

Originally Posted by RLS

From our 2004 classic manual:

Check torque values
http://www.airforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=203297&d=1389379690

[Action]

The thread is in the correct forum as the issue pertains to the lug studs and nuts which are part of the hubs.

What is the torque on the lug nuts for the other wheels? This may answer the question as to what the torque was on the lug nuts for the broken lug studs.

>>>>>>>>Action

[Bigdaddy_2]

I had this happen in 2008 in Minnesota en route to Alaska. Used a short handled sledge and punch, drove out the 6 broken studs. Took one to NAPA and they were able to match it. Drove the new studs into the hub, torqued the wheel a couple of times to stretch the lugs a bit and hit the road the next day. Stopped every 50 miles to check and tighten the first day then about every 150 miles each day of our trip. Enjoyed Alaska, driving about 10,000 miles with trailer in tow. No further problems.

Unless there is visual damage to the torsion axel can't believe it will take more than installing 6 new lugs to get back on the road. Then check the Torque frequently.

I have since bought a spare lug while at JC to have as a sample if need to replace in future.

Met an Airstreamer 2 summers ago in Iowa who had the same happen to him the day before.. Same fix as mine.

[adonh]

Originally Posted by Ntex

On I-10, trailer swerved. Stopped and found our brand new SenDel wheel gone. New lug nuts appear to be sheared off. Luckily were able to limp half mile to Flying J in El Paso on 3 wheels. They are being helpful and think we may need a new axle. If so, any chance we will find a suitable one locally? There is a Camping World here. For our 2004 Classic, how do we find out what axle we need. Check the book? Call Airstream? I will search the forum too but thought someone out there might have advice. When our adventure is over, I will get my husband to post about the necessity of checking lug nuts frequently.

Were you able to find your wheel/tire after it came off. As others have said you should be able to replace the broken studs in the hub and I can't see any reason to replace the axle. The axle had nothing to do this issue.

Maybe someone can provide the correct replacement lugs for your trailer. You may also want to see if you can find a local mobile RV service operation. I would not let Camping World within a mile of an Airstream trailer. Just my opinion. Good luck.

[Bigdaddy_2]

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f465...ud-106388.html

This link will answer the question as to the part needed

[RLS]

Originally Posted by panheaddale

I pull campers out of Elkhart IN. When we pick up a new camper we have to torque lug nut and they use sendel wheels which we are required to torque to 120#. We have to torque when we pick up, 25 miles and at 50 miles and their are usually a few of the lug nut that have loosened up. If we don't torque and something happens we are liable for damages. 125# is right on the money

I stand corrected!! Glad you posted that

[paulken]

If they used a impact wrench to install the new rims I would say the lug nuts where put on to tight.
They could have used 700 ft lbs of torque to remove the lug nuts and than installed the lug nuts back with the same.
I have watched at the tire shop when they install the rims back on they use the impact wrench and then check with a with torqe wrench set on 100 ft lbs and it clicks on the first try.

My son had brought his wifes car over after it had been in the shop for a flat because they had installed the lug nuts so tight that my impact wrench would not break them loose. We had to use a lug nut wrench with a cheater and than even had to stand on it to break the lug nuts loose.

I may use an impact wrench to remove lug nuts but I always try to reinstall without one.

[Ntex]

We didn't go back and look for the wheel, nor do I know whether a torque wrench was used to install the new wheels.
It turns out the repair facility where we dropped the trailer is a separately owned truck and trailer repair shop, not part of the Flying J, and they seemed to know what they were doing. They thought we needed a new hub. Andy at Inland talked to us on the phone and suggested that might be what we needed as well, but it would have taken days to get here. The repair shop installed a used hub they say fits perfectly.