Installing New Races in Hubs - Help Needed

[dbj216]

Happy New Year Everyone

My winter project is new wheel bearings. I have purchased new races and bearings.

I had a hard time driving out the bearing races from the brake drum, or some say hub. I used a punch and hammer. There was very little of the bearing race exposed to rest my punch and bang out the race. But I finally got them all out.

I now have to drive the new races into the clean hub. I don't have a press or proper bearing driver. What have you folks devised to get the race started in its bore, and then drive it to the shoulder?

My brake drums are Dexter 12 x 2 with six studs rated at 5200. I see they sell them new with the bearing races already installed.

David

[dwightdi]

I have used the old bearing race or a board, as a buffer, and driven them in by tapping evenly with a hammer. If it cocks, it will not go. If you warm the drum and freeze the race it will be easier.

[ventport]

Find a socket that is just a little smaller then the race to use as a driver.

[AirsDream]

... good advice above. There's almost always a socket that's just the right size. And heating the hub in the oven and chilling the race in the freezer often gives "just enough" interference fit differential to make the job easier. Also, make sure that the hub's machined surface where the race fits is completely clean - a little extra time spent here with some very fine emery cloth or such can pay big dividends.

[SteveH]

I like to use one of the old races as a buffer between the hammer and the new race, but I cut a slot in it with a power hacksaw so it will compress just a little. It works well, allows you to drive the new race all the way in, protects the new race, and makes the job easier.

Been doing this for years, and now have a complete set of races for every trailer I own, but wouldn't you know it, our new to us '10 uses Neverlube bearings, so now I need to buy a large socket and C clip pliars.

[Bob4x4]

Originally Posted by SteveH

I like to use one of the old races as a buffer between the hammer and the new race, but I cut a slot in it with a power hacksaw so it will compress just a little. It works well, allows you to drive the new race all the way in, protects the new race, and makes the job easier.

Been doing this for years, and now have a complete set of races for every trailer I own, but wouldn't you know it, our new to us '10 uses Neverlube bearings, so now I need to buy a large socket and C clip pliars.

That's the same technique I use when I do an install that I don't have a driver for but I use a cut off saw on the old race

[dbj216]

I like the idea of cutting a slot in the old race to use as a driver. I will look for two big sockets with the right outside diameter to use as a driver.

And I like the idea of freezing the race, and maybe heating the hub to reduce the interference fit. These ideas give me hope I can drive the new races to the shoulders with out damaging them.

Heck, here in Minnesota, the great outdoors is just one big deep freezer. It will work great to leave my races outside overnight.

David

[polarlyse]

Take your time and go lightly " all around" no matter what method you choose. They will go in. Patience is your friend here. As you tap them in you will hear the difference in the sound when they hit bottom. You'll know when you're there.

Good luck with it. And HAPPY NEW YEAR

[GCinSC2]

Socket as a driver, done that, works just fine. I have one possible try this about using a socket. Make a mini press out of a piece of 1/2" or larger diameter threaded rod. This requires a large enough set of washers to bridge across the 1/2" or 3/4" drive hole in the socket and a piece of steel on the opposite end to pull against. Set it up and start tightening, watch for any tilting, and reset, start tightening, continue until seated. I think you'd be surprised how controlled this is and doesn't impact the parts, just pulls them in.

[Alumaholic]

All good suggestions above. But I was happiest when I bought a graduated set of drivers with beveled shoulders to match the race . Just remember to go slow and tap, tap, tap. Don't bang, bang, bang.

[dbj216]

Originally Posted by GCinSC2

Socket as a driver, done that, works just fine. I have one possible try this about using a socket. Make a mini press out of a piece of 1/2" or larger diameter threaded rod. This requires a large enough set of washers to bridge across the 1/2" or 3/4" drive hole in the socket and a piece of steel on the opposite end to pull against. Set it up and start tightening, watch for any tilting, and reset, start tightening, continue until seated. I think you'd be surprised how controlled this is and doesn't impact the parts, just pulls them in.

That is a great idea. Use a threaded rod as a "press". I'm going to rig up something along those lines. I recall my strut spring compressor I used to compress the springs on my car. Worked just fine.

Thanks,

David

[Ganaraska]

I find the hub more stable and easier to work on if I leave it bolted to the wheel. This does not apply if you have a fully equipped work shop with giant press.

[HiHoAgRV]

I haven't done this on an airstream hub but I have on other applications...

To install the new race, heat the hub in a hot plate. Cool the race in the freezer. One quick move and the race will drop right into place, a couple of taps and its set!

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by dwightdi

I have used the old bearing race or a board, as a buffer, and driven them in by tapping evenly with a hammer. If it cocks, it will not go. If you warm the drum and freeze the race it will be easier.

X2....races drop/tapped right in when I did our 63 Safari. Put races in the freezer overnight and carefully heated the hub's. (did have O/A torch though), give it a try with a propane unit, can't hurt, beat's bang'n.

Bob

[dbj216]

Okay, I'm ready!

I found O Rielly Auto Parts rents bearing drivers that will fit my races. This will help drive the races to their shoulders.

I will freeze the races, and gently heat the hubs to 300F or so. Then acting quickly, I will drop the frozen race into the heated bore and tap it into place with the bearing driver.

Then new grease seals, a good packing job with a high temp EP wheel bearing grease for the cones, and back on the spindles they go.

David

[Bob4x4]

The heating is way overkill.You will never see a pro do this.Since you will have the correct tool just drive the race in.You are over thinking this simple task

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by Bob4x4

The heating is way overkill.You will never see a pro do this.Since you will have the correct tool just drive the race in.You are over thinking this simple task

I agree.

[Wingeezer]

When changing wheel bearing races, I generally use the old race as a driver. I just go around the O.D. of the old race with an angle grinder to reduce its diameter slightly so that it is a loose fit in the bore of the hub and won't get stuck.

Sometimes I will tack weld a piece of steel across the old bearing to assist in tapping the new race in with it.


Brian.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Bob4x4

The heating is way overkill.You will never see a pro do this.Since you will have the correct tool just drive the race in.You are over thinking this simple task

Originally Posted by SteveH

I agree.

Sorry guess I been do'n it rong for all these years.....

From Timken directly.


mounting
See the General Bearing Handling and Inspection Section for more information about mounting bearings, including methods to heat bearings or press them on/in using an arbor press.
When heating tapered roller bearings, inner ring temperatures should not exceed 120°C (250°F) for Standard Class bearings and 66°C (150°F) for Precision Class bearings. Higher temperatures can change the bearing’s hardness and geometry.


Whenever inner or outer rings are heated or cooled during assembly, after mounting and returning to room temperature they should be checked with a 0.001 in. - 0.002 in. feeler gage. This ensures that the inner ring is pressed tightly against the shaft shoulder (Fig. 23) or the outer ring is pressed tightly against the housing shoulder. Before checking, ensure that both the inner and outer rings are pressed tightly against the shaft or housing shoulder.


Bob

[dbj216]

I have experience with tapered roller bearings too. We would heat the cones to 250 and shrink fit them to the shafts. And we would press the cups into our housings. Trailer wheel bearings don't have as much load on them as transmission bearings, but they are still precisioin ground pieces where surface finishes and metallurgy are very important to avoid premature failure.

The ideas presented here are good. The O'Rielly drivers work good. And freezing the cups and heating the hub a bit made the job easier. I got them down to the shoulder with out damaging the cups.

Thanks for all your help.

David