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Old 06-05-2004, 12:23 AM   #21
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Tim

Here is the link for the repair kit:
http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/12670couplerkit.jpg
Leonard
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Old 06-05-2004, 08:29 AM   #22
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Wink Hitch "Safety Chains"

Several years ago there was an article in the "Trailer Life" that said California Highway Patrol "CHiPs" could stop a trailer and inspect the hitch, If the safety chains would allow the tongue to touch the ground you could be cited for unsafe conditions. Keep them short and crossed. Cal or not it makes good sense.


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Old 06-08-2004, 07:42 PM   #23
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Hitch latching mechanisms do wear and therefore fail.

If the mileage is not know, simply replacing the coupler lock, will not dent the pocketbook very much, but it will ease the mind from worrying about it failing.

Twenty bucks or so, and the potential problem goes away.

Andy
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Old 06-09-2004, 07:38 AM   #24
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Thanks Andy - I've already got it on my to buy list before our next trip!
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Old 06-09-2004, 03:06 PM   #25
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I've never experienced this, but it scares me......

to think about it. When I first read the beginning of the thread, my initial thought was that perhaps the hitch-to-ground/trailer-to-hitch measurements were improper, and there was not enough tongue weight on the ball. Obviously, the heavier the trailer, the less likely it will bounce off a tow ball. There is a hitch measurement guide available somewhere in this forum. I remember seeing it recently when someone posted it again. You may wish to review it to insure your hitch ball is the correct distance from the ground in relation to your trailer hitch. I know the propoer distance is 18 and 3/4 inches for my 31' 1986 Sovereign, as well as many of the larger Airstreams. I don't have a clue what would be proper for your trailer. Good luck with finding the proper cure, and thank the Lord nothing more was damaged, nor anyone was hurt.
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Old 06-26-2006, 01:24 PM   #26
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Are there any other checks for a worn hitch?
I've got an old hitch that might even be original, with my 1976 Airstream when I bought it. I've towed about 50,000 kilometers with it so far.
It still feels really solid, and I've never noticed any problems.
I always grease the ball with bearing grease, then clean it up when I park.
Any other checkpoints to look for?

Thanks,
Toby J. H.
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Old 06-26-2006, 01:32 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TobyJH
Are there any other checks for a worn hitch?
I've got an old hitch that might even be original, with my 1976 Airstream when I bought it. I've towed about 50,000 kilometers with it so far.
It still feels really solid, and I've never noticed any problems.
I always grease the ball with bearing grease, then clean it up when I park.
Any other checkpoints to look for?

Thanks,
Toby J. H.

Don't mess with checking anything.

With that many miles, replace the coupler lock parts, and, the ball.

They are not that expensive, compared to having the trailer pass you when you hit the brakes.

Then relax and have a cool one, or two.

Andy
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Old 06-26-2006, 02:09 PM   #28
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Thanks

Thanks Andy!

And, by the way, I'm the fellow who was just down from Canada in January, to have a couple rear panels replaced.
Fantastic workmanship as always!

And, when you did my brakes, bearings, and basically rebuilt everything except the axels, absolutely fantastic work again!

I'm always super happy after leaving your shop.

I only wish your business was closer to Alberta!

Best!
Toby J. H.
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Old 06-26-2006, 02:32 PM   #29
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64GT ~ What kind of hitch setup do you have? We had a thread some time ago that delt with the coupler jumping off of the ball with a WD hitch. I did some testing on my rig and with the WD attached, the coupler and ball are very well attached.
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Old 06-26-2006, 07:50 PM   #30
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Hello Everyone,
If that WD and tv and trailer are level and setup right ,no way that will allow
the hitch to come off .The load of the bars pulls down on the ball ,not up.I agree with the others on the wear off the inner piece that locks upwards against the lower part of the ball .I use the grease from the rv shop to lube the ball ,the sway control ball ,and th wd bars where they insert into the hitch head.here is a funny note, my original tongue hitch is stamped for
2 5/16 ball and is an atwood , it looks original ,the welds and such as well
as the jack is retained by four large solid rivits .No indication that I can see it was not factory installed .The kicker is that the ball size is 2" ,yes 2" and a
2 5/16 ball does not fit in the coupler ,no way possible .The 2" ball fits tightly
and I use the jacking up method also as I must to install the spring bars.
So that is a strange one isn't it ?Definately find out what the deal is and do cross the chains ,if they are too short to cross ,replace them with longer ones as they will help "catch" the tongue as it comes off .SCARY

Scott
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Old 06-26-2006, 10:43 PM   #31
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Hi Jacking thread a moment!

Hello all -

Just a quick question.

I have an original 1956 boat trailer, for an original 1955 #28 hull Boston Whaler. It needs a new tongue/hitch set-up. Is the best choice a 2", or a 2 15/16"??? Any recommendations? - if so, why? why not?

Thanks for all thoughs!

Axel

Back to your regularly scheduled thread....
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Old 06-27-2006, 12:03 AM   #32
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Hello SilverToy,

You mean 2 5/16 ball ,and of course 2" .Any way the 2" really is plenty strong and you can get a 1" shank as I have for my tradewind .2 5/16
are usually for heavier trailers ,longer ,bigger etc. since your replacing your coupler you really can go either way .Of course the larger ball will be much stronger,but then do you need it ? Probably not ,but you will feel better with the knowledge that your hitch ball and coupler are extra strong.

They both will work ,

Scott
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Old 06-27-2006, 12:28 AM   #33
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I think the answer for you depends on if you have other trailers. A 2" is certainly enough. It's a little more common (i.e. renting a Uhaul, most boats, etc.). However, if you have another trailer that takes a different size then you probably want to stick with one size. A 1-7/8" should be plenty for the whaler too and is common on small single axle boat trailers.

Historical (hysterical?) note: Uhaul used to use 2-1/8" balls. I keep one around for "weird" occasions. I like WD hitches. However, they do take a little longer to hook up and if you're launching your whaler from the trailer, especially into salt water you might not want to expose your WD hitch to this. IF your tow vehicle can handle it and IF the whaler tows fine without it then a separate light weight shank for your boat is in order.

-Bernie
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Old 06-28-2006, 01:47 PM   #34
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What about the Hensley Ball?

I found this thread to be very helpful but it brought another question to mind. If from time to time replacement of the ball is recommended that's going to be a little hard for the Hensley since its welded on?

I have had my trailer for 1 year and pulled it about 7000 miles. When I checked the lube today is was almost all gone. Had some shiny spots on the front of the ball but doesn't appear to be worn to any excess.

So thanks to the gentlemen who started the thread its helped me be aware of the need for grease. I am assuming once a year will be enough?

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