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Old 08-17-2017, 08:20 PM   #61
jcl
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Originally Posted by DRPREECE View Post
It adds 200 lbs. My factory tongue weight is 903 lbs. With the ProPride attached, including the stinger, it measured 1100 lbs. using a tongue scale and verified on the CAT scales.
Did you validate the 903 lbs with a scale?
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Old 08-18-2017, 01:43 PM   #62
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Unfortunately no. I did not have the scale before the PP was installed. However, I know the shipping weight of the PP (including stinger) is 200 lb. I was actually surprised when the scale read 1,100 lbs - mathematically confirming the advertised tongue weight. Plus the fact the CAT scale showed an increase of 1,140 lbs. on the rear TV axel with the weight distribution removed confirmed the tongue scale reading. I consider anything within +\- 100 lbs. close enough given the large potential for inaccuracies across the measurement methods. That being said, the shipping weight of the hitch is most likely very accurate.
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:13 PM   #63
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How do you know how to set the weight distribution bars. Still guessing how far to raise or lower them. Is there an adjustment based on front wheel well to tire as it raises and lowers when Airstream ( 30ft) is attached. Just recently installed the 1400 ride is very stiff compared to the Reece dual cam with Air Safe that I had on prior to the PP.
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:40 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luigi123 View Post
How do you know how to set the weight distribution bars. Still guessing how far to raise or lower them. Is there an adjustment based on front wheel well to tire as it raises and lowers when Airstream ( 30ft) is attached. Just recently installed the 1400 ride is very stiff compared to the Reece dual cam with Air Safe that I had on prior to the PP.


I think you could use front fender measurements to "rough it in". If the nose comes up 2" and you can bring it down 2" with the WD jacks, you're certainly close. I originally had 1000# bars and early on wasn't getting enough weight pushed to the front - I had a lot of "porpoising" or bouncing because the steering was not as tight to the ground. I was able to drive the jacks up to about 7" off the frame and get enough weight to stop the porpoising.

But eventually I went to the 1400# bars. The beauty of the jacks is that you can dial in exactly how much you need - no more, no less. But for that to be as accurate as possible, you need a trip to the scales. I haven't gone this year but the first year I went several times to get a baseline then each year after I go back to check (like real life, it's easy to put in weight when you're not looking! ).

Start with Fender measurements to get a good sense of how much you need, drive it around and see how the steering feels and you might have enough info to be happy. Best though if you can do a 3-pass run on the scales to really know what you're dealing with.


Good luck!
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Old 07-05-2018, 11:18 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by Moflash View Post
Tongue weight is a constant and does not magically disappear.
Tongue weight is a constant only for a specific tow configuration and will be different based on hitch and possibly other factors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PKI View Post
Why would we measure the tongue weight at the end of the shank when the tongue ends at the ball coupler. Or if we are asking if the PP/H hitch adds weight, why would we not compare the weight of another hitch with a similar length shank to the PP/H configuration? Why do other designs not use a long shank if it reduces tongue weight? Pat
My view. TW is the down force applied to the TV. Because hitches using a standard ball allow a pivot at the ball, it is appropriate to measure the weight at that point. With a Hensley design hitch, the weight is transferred inside the hitch receiver.

Recognize that you are dealing with levers when hooking up a trailer - there is a negative to using a long shank on a ball hitch, you generally get more squat on the TV. Similarly, the trailer lever is from the center point of the axle(s) to the weight transfer point. The longer the lever, the lower the down force at the transfer point. You can see an example of this in the instructions on how to determine TW with a bathroom scale. Also, there is a power dolly company that recommends using a dedicated hitch-up bracket mounted well aft of the ball. Because the weight transfer is closer to the axles, there is more down force which results in better traction for the tow dolly. Final example - your common breaker bar, the longer the bar, the lower the effort you need to expend...
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Old 07-06-2018, 05:29 AM   #66
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My CAT experience...

Moment arm leverage is not only present with the hitch, and the distance that is added to the tongue.

When setting up the '06 Burb with the HaHa, I was having trouble transferring enough weight using 1400lb bars, plus the ride was very stiff.
I swapped out the OEM receiver for a Reese V TowBeast.
Notice the much longer mount arms...more leverage equals less effort. I can now transfer the needed weight with 1000lb bars.

...my first trip to the CAT after setting up with measurements took 6 runs to get the baseline, and proper transfer. Noting the difference in side to side axle weight, and loading accordingly.
I now weigh at the start of the season, 3 runs. Never had a load related tire failure, and can't rationalize the need for 5-6 runs. If your rig is level front to rear all axles should be fairly equal. If you know the street and curbside differential you can pack accordingly.

For those who have weighed all wheels, was it done one at a time or all at once? Any tickets on the results?

Bob
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Old 07-06-2018, 10:38 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post

For those who have weighed all wheels, was it done one at a time or all at once? Any tickets on the results?

Bob
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I was at a rally where RVSEF was weighing rigs. I had my rig done. They used 8 scales all at once, one for each tire of my TV and trailer.
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