When to rebuild hitch latch?

[CantHoldBack]

I have 69 Globetrotter with a 2" ball hitch. The hitch looks original. See picture below.



How do I assess if the hitch latch needs replacement? If I put in a ball, latched it, then move it up and down, or side-side, how much play can there be?

I guess the second question is: what type of hitch is this? Is there a replacement latch kit for it?

thanks for the help.

[Bubba L]

There are a lot of coupler parts for sale. Yours looks the same as mine on our 66 Safari. I still have the original coupler on our 55 Flying Cloud. I checked it by hooking it to my truck ball and jacking up the trailer tongue. There is a little play, but I want that. Colin Hyde repairs some couplers by running a weld bead on the ball side of the coupler and grinding it smooth. This builds back what was worn. I’ll look on our 66 to see if there’s a name on the coupler.

[rideair]

Hook it up to the tow rig, run the leveling jack up and see if it lifts the rear of the tow without coming off, would be a real quick test. Lay down on the ground, lookup inside of it and inspect it for worn pieces of metal.

Second rule (though many will disagree) "Will you be using load leveling bars while it's hooked up to the tow rig?" If so, they put so much down pressure on the ball, it will never come-off while hooked up, regardless, so don't worry about it.

To my knowledge, you can no longer get parts for that hitch. A full replacement is the only option.

Good Luck,

[rideair]

Bubba L,

On my 1966 Overlander that still has the original hitch, it says: "MAR EL" with part of the R missing and a whole next to it.

Your?

[PA BAMBI II]

Originally Posted by CantHoldBack

I have 69 Globetrotter with a 2" ball hitch. The hitch looks original. See picture below.



How do I assess if the hitch latch needs replacement? If I put in a ball, latched it, then move it up and down, or side-side, how much play can there be?

I guess the second question is: what type of hitch is this? Is there a replacement latch kit for it?

thanks for the help.

It looks to be a Marvel coupler. They are cast metal and very well-built and last a long time. The innards (coupler latch) parts are obsolete. I have found some spares to carry along with me on junkyard trailers.

As far as longevity and/or how much "play" is acceptable, I would say if the hitch ball is caught tightly and the trailer is tracking straight and true, you should be good to go. Many, many folks are still rolling with original Marvel couplers on their vintage trailers.

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by rideair

Bubba L,

On my 1966 Overlander that still has the original hitch, it says: "MAR EL" with part of the R missing and a whole next to it.

Your?

The very same. It has some added numbers. But still in safe condition.

[slofoks]

My previous 1966 Overlander had the same Marvel coupler which works fine for most hitches. One major caveat though - Andersen Hitch does not recommend using their hitch with this coupler. Something to do with how the forces work on that hitch which could cause it to uncouple. I changed mine out to a bull dog coupler to eliminate any question so I could use the Andersen. I have an Andersen on my 2007 25' Classic now and love it!! Just returned from a 1800 mile trip and the rig is rock solid even in high winds. Good luck!

[overlander64]

I agree that the Marvel couplers are heavy duty and long lasting. My 1964 Overlander is still running with its original Marvel 2-inch coupler. I know that the prior two owners were sticklers for maintenance, and that the trailer was never towed without lubrication on the ball. The one thing that I have noticed in the 26 plus years that I have owned the trailer is that it is often difficult to find a 2-inch ball with a trailer tow weight rating of 6,000 pounds or more -- I like to have that as a minimum. They are readily available online, but the vendors in my area typically only handle 2-balls with a trailer tow weight rating of 2,000 pounds.

I figure that I am giving the coupler something of a test every time that I hitch up as I use the tongue jack to raise the back of my tow vehicle to make it easier to connect my hitch's weight distribution bars. To this day, there is minimal upward movement permitted when the jack raises the hitch and rear of tow vehicle. The same Reese Strait Line Hitch with Dual Cam Sway Control has been used on the Overlander since it was new, however, the weight distribution bars have been changed to reflect changes in the tow vehicles over the years.

[CantHoldBack]

Thanks everyone for the info. I measured about 1/4" up-down play. I like the idea of welding up a couple of beads and then grinding it smooth.


I dont see Marvel stamped anywhere on the hitch.

[ALUMINUMINUM]

To all the good advise, I’ll add…

My 20' 1968GT has a 2” Marvel coupler. In 1968, a 30’ Sovereign used the same 2” Marvel.

All Airstream models became wider, longer, and heavier in 1969.

1969 is near the cusp of Airstream’s transition from 2” Marvel to 2-5/16” Marvel.

It’s very possible that your 1969GT has a 2-5/16” Marvel coupler. Back off the claw adjusting nut inside the ball cavity and see if a 2-5/16” ball will fit in the coupler.

Old Globe Trotters Rule!

[Middlejohn]

‘68 Globetrotter with original hitch as well. Headed to Alaska w/it in May. Thanks for the post as I haven’t thought about checking it out. No issues w/it in the last 20K miles! I just added a spare tire rack to the tongue to get the spare off the front of my TV.