What to expect with a longer shank on the hitch?

[bweybright]

So in putting a new hitch on the truck I find I need a longer shank. I am finding one that would definitely work and give me the ball height I need that adds 6 inches between the truck and trailer. Another option is one that might lower my trailer height an inch but only adds 2 1/2 inches to the distance between the truck and trailer.
My question is: what should I expect adding 6 inches of tongue length? Is having the trailer an inch lower on the tongue but with a shorter tongue length better?

Basically what have folks experienced?
I tow with an F250 diesel and have a 2007 FB 27 ft. trailer. We load and travel with food for two weeks at a time, so loads are towards the upper end of things which is why I am asking about real life handling experience.

Any insight is welcome. Wondering trailering as well as backing changes.
The new hitch is a Reese Dual Cam II and receiver hitch on the truck is a Curt class V hitch.
Thanks to all in advance.
Bob

[CRH]

I have a 14" long shank. I had another hole drilled at 12". I use that shank for both the AS and a dump trailer. I don't notice any big difference going forward. I notice a difference backing...the longer shank gives me room to turn quite a bit sharper. The longer shank also allows me to drop the tailgate without it hitting the tongue jack.

[bweybright]

Interesting....I would be going from a 12 in shank to an 18 inch shank. I already appreciate the tailgate benefit. More wondering the backing into tight campsites and road bounce on highways. Actually wondering if it would minimize the bounce I get now? Hmmmmm.
Thank you for the quick response. I look forward to much insight and input.

[CRH]

18" shank? Never saw one.

[bweybright]

EQ90-02-4500
Now you have.
A good day when you learn something new every day. Now you got learned something new.
I should have said length, not drop. I give you that. My bad there.

[bweybright]

But my initial post did say length, not drop.......just to clarify.

[CRH]

The overall length for that model is 18". The pin holes are 14" apart. The Curt I use has the same specs...I just stuck a tape measure on it.

[bweybright]

Originally Posted by CRH

The overall length for that model is 18". The pin holes are 14" apart. The Curt I use has the same specs...I just stuck a tape measure on it.

It all depends on what measurements you are needing it seems to be to me. I am aware of the pin hole measurements. and they fit my need. But, it will extend the space between my trailer and the truck by 6 inches.

I think we are talking the same thing....just what measurements we are using. So an email\website communication conundrum

All good. Just wondering what I should expect putting the hitch 6 inches out from where they live now.
Lots of weird measurements for shanks on the sites.....just trying to figure it out.

[bweybright]

I would be interested in knowing what Curt shank you use. I need the length, but would be happier with 1 1/2 inches shorter drop.

[CRH]

Mine is a Curt 17122. You could put your head on and have the bottom cut off.

[CRH]

Screenshots:

[brick1]

I switched an 18 inch shank, (14 inches ball mount-to-pin hole) towing a 2018 Serenity 28 with an F250 diesel and a Fastway E2 hitch, 1000 lb bars. I added one additional washer (6 total) and when hitched have one inch compression on the rear, and zero rise in the front. 1100 lbs tongue weight. Tows like a dream. No sway, no bounce. Generally you try to keep the shank extension as short as possible, but no towing issues from my setup.

[bweybright]

Thank you. I will check it out. I appreciate the input.
A side note is I need the shortest drop I can get now as backing it into my shop I go through a dip and then she shop rises.

Part of my decision is that I am likely doing the lift at Jackson Center this September....so I open to thoughts.
I do appreciate your input and have added your shank to my short shopping list.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by CRH

18" shank? Never saw one.

I found different manufacturers measure differently.
One might measure between the pin hole and the mounting holes, while another measures overall length.
I look at e-Trailer for the shank because they provide videos with a tape measure! Then shop around.
When I'm king, all manufacturers will measure the same.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

One of the classic mods done by pro's when setting things up to minimize sway:

You shorten the shank.

The easy (but not complete) explanation is that the further back the ball is from the truck axle, the more leverage there is. That increases the likelihood of oscillatory sway.

No, this is *not* the only consideration when setting things up. It is just one of many on the list of things to consider.

Bob

[Hermes]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

One of the classic mods done by pro's when setting things up to minimize sway:

You shorten the shank.

The easy (but not complete) explanation is that the further back the ball is from the truck axle, the more leverage there is. That increases the likelihood of oscillatory sway.

No, this is *not* the only consideration when setting things up. It is just one of many on the list of things to consider.

Bob

Exactly, when I changed hitch Can Am wanted to shorten the shank, as they do for many setups, the purpose is to reduce sway. But if they did then my tailgate would not fully open, and I never had any hint of sway, so we left it as it was and I still never experience any sway.

Andy did explain that different AS models will vary in their tedency to sway, it's a question of weight distribution which varies according to the floorplan, and to how it is loaded; but my 28' RBQ model is not known to sway.

[overlander64]

Greetings Bob! This is going back more than 27 years for me, but I transferred the hitch head from my GMC G20 Conversion Van with rear mounted spare tire to my next similar tow vehicle, a 1995 Chevrolet K1500 Z71 Extended Cab Pickup with all of the heavy duty trailering options as well as the full-bore luxury interior. The Conversion Van had always had issues with porpoising and instability, and I blamed the van resulting in its replacement after two years. Similar issues were again noticed with the new setup, but I hadn't focused in on the hitch. I was at the International Rally in Boise, Idaho (1998), and after three years of struggle with less than ideal towing manners, the Reese Towing Products representative identified my problems almost immediately -- the long extension of the ball mount was a perfect storm of sorts -- just the right amount of distance between the tow vehicle's rear axle and the center point of the rear axles on the trailer -- this was causing my porpoising. Second, and not directly related to the porpoising, he found that the hitch shop that had helped me select my Reese Strait Line Hitch with Dual Cam Sway Control over sold my weight distribution bars -- I had 1,000 pound bars when all that I needed were 750 pound bars. After swapping out the hitch head and weight distribution bars for the correct components, the trailer's manners returned to those expected of an Airstream. I was also able to have the crack that had opened up in the interior skin of the trailer above the door repaired that had opened up during the time that I towed with the over rated weight distribution bars -- in the 27 plus years since, I haven't had a recurrence of either issue. I now make it a point to insist that my hitch shop adjust my hitch installation on a new tow vehicle such that the ball mount is as close to the tow vehicle's rear bumper as possible to keep that distance at a minimum.

[Adiredneck]

I use a combination of an Equalizer and AirSafe hitches, which puts my ball almost 21" behind the receiver. I've noticed no change in handling (other than the improved comfort of making the suspensions independent). It might make it a little harder to back up, but I sucked at that even before the AirSafe...


I tow a 27 FB Classic with a 2015 Ram 3500 diesel, so I hardly notice that I'm towing, anyway.

[bweybright]

Originally Posted by overlander64

Greetings Bob! This is going back more than 27 years for me, but I transferred the hitch head from my GMC G20 Conversion Van with rear mounted spare tire to my next similar tow vehicle, a 1995 Chevrolet K1500 Z71 Extended Cab Pickup with all of the heavy duty trailering options as well as the full-bore luxury interior. The Conversion Van had always had issues with porpoising and instability, and I blamed the van resulting in its replacement after two years. Similar issues were again noticed with the new setup, but I hadn't focused in on the hitch. I was at the International Rally in Boise, Idaho (1998), and after three years of struggle with less than ideal towing manners, the Reese Towing Products representative identified my problems almost immediately -- the long extension of the ball mount was a perfect storm of sorts -- just the right amount of distance between the tow vehicle's rear axle and the center point of the rear axles on the trailer -- this was causing my porpoising. Second, and not directly related to the porpoising, he found that the hitch shop that had helped me select my Reese Strait Line Hitch with Dual Cam Sway Control over sold my weight distribution bars -- I had 1,000 pound bars when all that I needed were 750 pound bars. After swapping out the hitch head and weight distribution bars for the correct components, the trailer's manners returned to those expected of an Airstream. I was also able to have the crack that had opened up in the interior skin of the trailer above the door repaired that had opened up during the time that I towed with the over rated weight distribution bars -- in the 27 plus years since, I haven't had a recurrence of either issue. I now make it a point to insist that my hitch shop adjust my hitch installation on a new tow vehicle such that the ball mount is as close to the tow vehicle's rear bumper as possible to keep that distance at a minimum.

Very good information to research, thank you. With my shorter shank I often get porpoising on the modern concrete highways, black top not so much, with 800 pound bars. The joy of black magic hitch configuration. T
Thank you for your thoughtful input. I have a month to figure it out.

[bweybright]

Originally Posted by Adiredneck

I use a combination of an Equalizer and AirSafe hitches, which puts my ball almost 21" behind the receiver. I've noticed no change in handling (other than the improved comfort of making the suspensions independent). It might make it a little harder to back up, but I sucked at that even before the AirSafe...
I tow a 27 FB Classic with a 2015 Ram 3500 diesel, so I hardly notice that I'm towing, anyway.

I am wondering about that added length for backing up in state parks, etc..... I have a crew cab....part of my concern. You have a classic, heavier than mine I think.
I am really torn. I don't have sway issues now except when coming down mountain passes and the trailer wants to pass me a bit. I need a new tongue jack and the extra 6 inches lets me have more options.....
And the extra tailgate space.... You have me pondering.