Weight distribution hitch

[56ovalwindow]

We took possession of a 2005, 28 foot Airstream safari with the slide out. Wondering which brand and which weight to use. These are some of the basic numbers from the owners manual: hitch weight without options 1010# GVWR 9,100# UBW 6515# . Our TV is a 98 Dodge SB 2500 Cummins dsl. I have some very good contacts for picking up a new Reese WD hitch. Since we are new at this, thanks in advance for any and all helpful information. Why’s and reasons are encouraged. Russ

[SteveSueMac]

Hi - glad you’re asking for WHY and REASONS. There is no perfect answer. Every decision is a compromise. So - what’s most important to you? There are (too) many hitch threads here with tons of information - some more heat than light.

For me - my “why” was to eliminate the possibility of sway at the outset rather than react to it. While I’m not convinced my choice is 100% fail proof in this regard, I’m betting 99.9%. I went with a virtual pivot projection hitch - the ProPride, a Hensley design.

Pros: prevents sway from happening by virtually projecting the pivot point near the rear axle of the tow vehicle. You can dial in exactly how much or how little weight distribution you need. It’s really quite an engineering feat.

Cons: penalties in cost ($2500) and weight (gotta add 80+# to the tongue?) and steep learning curve (once I figured out the “secret” I haven’t had hitch up problems since - but it takes practice).

My original preference was a PullRite under the bed hitch which physically (not virtually) puts the pivot point at the axles (like an upside down 5th wheel). But when I got my rig they were no longer manufacturing them for my year truck and beyond so that was out.

You can see my “why” was all about sway avoidance. In my math for me, the benefits outweighed the penalties. Everyone’s mileage varies. I think most major brands can do the job. Know exactly what you want to accomplish, why, budget constraints, other constraints, and make a decision that works for your math. That’s the only calculation that matters.

Congrats on the slider and happy camping!

[56ovalwindow]

This is the type of information I’m chasing after. Thanks

[Bill M.]

I have towed the last 12 years with a Reese straight line hitch. For your trailer I would us the 1000 lb bars. I like the Reese.

[Mrjkq]

Everybody on here has their own WDH preference, mine is the Equalizer (1000 lb bars) with 4 point sway control. My truck & trailer are described in my signature. Once set up correctly you will have a perfectly level weight distributed combination that completely eliminates sway. Equally important for me is the ease of use, no chains to crank up or friction arms to attach, just connect the bars & away you go.

[brick1]

There are several brands of WD hitch’s available. Some are fairly expensive, but have a loyal following. The most important aspect is getting the correct hitch/bar weight rating, and having it properly adjusted. I am using a Fastway 4 Point WD/Sway Control with 1000 lb bars. Towing with a 2018 F250 Diesel. No sag, no sway...
brick.

[CBWELL]

I tow with a Husky CentreLine with #800 bars. Lighter bars with more flex and less poping of rivets as per Andy formerly of Inland RV. Everyone here has their own idea's on WD hitches. Buy what you feel comfortable with. JMHO Chris

[uncle_bob]

Hi

There are easily a couple hundred threads here on the forum fiercely debating the pros's and cons of various hitch setups for a typical AS trailer. They all come down to "what I bought is best, anything else is either a) obviously un-safe or b) not worth the money. Indeed if the post is from somebody who bought the most expensive hitch out there, the answer will always be a) above.

If you wish to spend several thousand dollars (and put up with a few issues) there is no reason *not* to get a very expensive hitch. They sell for a lot of money because they do provide a bit more sway suppression.

In terms of WD, there is no advantage to an expensive hitch. Since anti-sway is what you really are after, that's sort of a non-point. I only bring it up because of the way the question was phrased initially.

Bob

[rmkrum]

Exactly. WD is pretty much WD. Just need it to be strong enough to distribute weight as you need it, and compliant enough that you don't bend something on the tow vehicle or trailer.

Anti-sway methods vary all over the map. Friction in various flavors, cams or various types, linkage geometry, hitch systems that mount on rails under the truck, you name it. On of the more interesting homebrew ones lately was an adapter from an A-frame to 5th wheel hitch setup.

Each and every variant of a hitch system has its own issues and advantages. The bottom line is to get something that handles the situation you are towing in, matches your equipment well, and does what you want it to.

I don't want to seriously claim, for example, a Hensley designed system is the 'best for everyone'. I will, however claim it is the best for me and my equipment, and the environment I tow in. I'll happily put up with the occasional onlooker laugh-riot as I try to hit a 2 1/2" square target opening with the end of a 2" square piece of steel mounted where I cannot clearly see either of them in the current tailgate-mounted rear-view camera. (I'm working on an overkill engineering solution to that one as well) It may take me 2-3 tries to line up and seat it properly, but once it's connected, we're good to go--no white knuckles needed.

One it's hooked up and WD is adjusted for the 'load of the day', it keeps me happy while driving, even in ALL eight tires smoking emergency stops**. Good enough for this kid.

**Usually encountered in downtown Phoenix, a place I now completely avoid by several hundred miles when at all possible...

[SteveSueMac]

Oh Uncle Bob - I’ve always enjoyed your posts but have to call you on #8 here and your suggestion that VPP owners will ALWAY say how unsafe anything else is. Did you completely skip #2 in this thread? I’m not a ProPride snob....promise!! [emoji3]

Rmkrum - I learned a trick from (I want to say) Pahashka (?) in these forums. I have a 10’ small bright orange/yellow tow rope with a magnet on one end that goes under the box on the a-frame and rolls out straight on the ground toward my truck Through the reverse cam I can watch the stinger and guide it over the rope all the way to the box. I get out to double check height but 99% of the time, I’m properly aligned the first time! Great little tip! Have fun!

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Oh Uncle Bob - I’ve always enjoyed your posts but have to call you on #8 here and your suggestion that VPP owners will ALWAY say how unsafe anything else is. Did you completely skip #2 in this thread? I’m not a ProPride snob....promise!! [emoji3]

Rmkrum - I learned a trick from (I want to say) Pahashka (?) in these forums. I have a 10’ small bright orange/yellow tow rope with a magnet on one end that goes under the box on the a-frame and rolls out straight on the ground toward my truck Through the reverse cam I can watch the stinger and guide it over the rope all the way to the box. I get out to double check height but 99% of the time, I’m properly aligned the first time! Great little tip! Have fun!

Hi

Any bets on where this thread will be in about another three pages of posts? I've got at least part of a case of beer here ( quickly dwindling .... ) to back up my side of the bet

Bob

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi



Any bets on where this thread will be in about another three pages of posts? I've got at least part of a case of beer here ( quickly dwindling .... ) to back up my side of the bet



Bob

[emoji3]

I’m not disagreeing with your prediction - just disagreeing with the “always” statement. Wouldn’t risk betting a case if good beer on this one! [emoji3]

[Airstream87]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Hi - glad you’re asking for WHY and REASONS. There is no perfect answer. Every decision is a compromise. So - what’s most important to you? There are (too) many hitch threads here with tons of information - some more heat than light.

For me - my “why” was to eliminate the possibility of sway at the outset rather than react to it. While I’m not convinced my choice is 100% fail proof in this regard, I’m betting 99.9%. I went with a virtual pivot projection hitch - the ProPride, a Hensley design.

Pros: prevents sway from happening by virtually projecting the pivot point near the rear axle of the tow vehicle. You can dial in exactly how much or how little weight distribution you need. It’s really quite an engineering feat.

Cons: penalties in cost ($2500) and weight (gotta add 80+# to the tongue?) and steep learning curve (once I figured out the “secret” I haven’t had hitch up problems since - but it takes practice).

My original preference was a PullRite under the bed hitch which physically (not virtually) puts the pivot point at the axles (like an upside down 5th wheel). But when I got my rig they were no longer manufacturing them for my year truck and beyond so that was out.

You can see my “why” was all about sway avoidance. In my math for me, the benefits outweighed the penalties. Everyone’s mileage varies. I think most major brands can do the job. Know exactly what you want to accomplish, why, budget constraints, other constraints, and make a decision that works for your math. That’s the only calculation that matters.

Congrats on the slider and happy camping!

PullRite will make you a hitch, BUT you have to go to the factory AND it takes a week. If you have ever had one then you know it is worth it.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by Airstream87

PullRite will make you a hitch, BUT you have to go to the factory AND it takes a week. If you have ever had one then you know it is worth it.

Omg! I BEGGED them to make me one - even emailed the President of the company - a black and white no! This was end of 2012 when I bought a 2013 Duramax and get were no longer making them for that year and up.....

I imagine it is outstanding! Happy for you.

[aftermath]

56, congratulations on your new trailer. Your TV will make towing it a breeze. You are going to get swamped by suggestions. Good luck with all of that.


The top end hitches are the best, no question especially when you ask someone who has one. I have never owned one so I can not say anything bad about them other than the issue of hooking up. There are lots of workarounds for the trouble people experience so I guess it is all good.


I have an Equalizer and have towed well over 50,000 miles on the two different trailers I have had. I can tell you this, it is easy peasy to connect regardless if the site is level or not. I have towed in almost every possible condition out there and have NEVER experienced sway of any kind. I have also had to slam on the brakes a couple of times and the trailer stayed straight in line behind me. If my hitch only "reacts" to sway then it is doing a pretty good job!



I refuse to use an add on friction bar for the guessing required when using one, I avoided the kinds with the chains that snap into place for fear of the tension involved when hooking them up and I could not afford the big two. My choice worked for me at the time and still works for me after all these years.


My only suggestion is that you should get your trailer weighted to determine the tongue weight when you are set up for camping. If you know this number the folks at Equalizer can help. I doubt the 1 K bars will be enough but....I am just guessing.


Good luck.

[56ovalwindow]

Originally Posted by aftermath

56, congratulations on your new trailer. Your TV will make towing it a breeze. You are going to get swamped by suggestions. Good luck with all of that.


The top end hitches are the best, no question especially when you ask someone who has one. I have never owned one so I can not say anything bad about them other than the issue of hooking up. There are lots of workarounds for the trouble people experience so I guess it is all good.


I have an Equalizer and have towed well over 50,000 miles on the two different trailers I have had. I can tell you this, it is easy peasy to connect regardless if the site is level or not. I have towed in almost every possible condition out there and have NEVER experienced sway of any kind. I have also had to slam on the brakes a couple of times and the trailer stayed straight in line behind me. If my hitch only "reacts" to sway then it is doing a pretty good job!



I refuse to use an add on friction bar for the guessing required when using one, I avoided the kinds with the chains that snap into place for fear of the tension involved when hooking them up and I could not afford the big two. My choice worked for me at the time and still works for me after all these years.


My only suggestion is that you should get your trailer weighted to determine the tongue weight when you are set up for camping. If you know this number the folks at Equalizer can help. I doubt the 1 K bars will be enough but....I am just guessing.


Good luck.

Aftermath, Thanks for your input. Please explain why you think the 1K bars will be too lite. Let’s say I keep the TW at a 1000 lbs, what would cause 1K bars to be under splined for the WD on our set up?

[rv guy]

Umm I hooked up my Equalizer hitch (2014) and drove a hundred miles. Got out to stretch and did a walk about.
Curb side sway bar was gone. The L thingy was still in the L bracket. The bolt and cotter pin were gone. The holes were the bolt goes through were fine. No damage to trailer or tires. Driving 300 miles home on one bar.
Anybody ever heard of something like this?

[aftermath]

Well, I am not an expert and that is for sure. I was just going by my situation. I have the 1K bars but they came with the trailer I purchased in 2009. The PO picked it up new from a dealer in 2006 and this is the hitch they suggested. I had a lighter setup on my previous trailer which was about 2000 lbs lighter as well. Both trailers towed nicely.

My "unloaded" TW is listed as 720. It actually said, "without options." The trailer came with two batteries, two full propane cylinders and a spare tire all on the tongue. I have weighed mine and the actual TW when we are loaded and headed out is very close to 1000 lbs. So, if 720 can grow to 980, I would think that your 1020 without options will also increase.
That said, you might be fine considering your TV and how well made the Equalizer is. But, I would call the manufacturer and ask them some questions to be sure.



https://www.equalizerhitch.com/

[Daquenzer]

If you don’t have a rear back up camera I suggest you get one. Whatever hitch you get will be so much easier hooking up; especially if you go with a Propride or Hensley. I have a Propride and I can hitch up very easy with my 2017 F150. If I didn’t have a camera it would be doable but far less efficient.

[Docv]

no comments on the Andersen, really being shunned?