Weighed the Rig

[boondockdad]

Originally Posted by subfan1

I too am going through this set up. I have an EQ hitch as well.
For me the angle of the hitch head was important in trying to transfer the tongue weight of the trailer off of the rear axel of our 3/4 ton Suburban. I am using 7 washers at the hitch head and my L shape brackets are ajusted to 3 1/2 holes from the top. In other words you can see 3 1/2 holes from the top.
I was only using 5 washers and my bars were pointing up from the ball looking back torwards the trailer. I now have a level ride and my distribution bars are level with the A frame of the trailer. I used a tape measure to assure overall spring compression. I am now only an 1/8 of an inch front, and 1/2 inch rear spring compression on the TV and the trailer sits about a 1/4 inch lower in the front Versus back. Last, don't forget to torque the small screw below the hitch head when hitched.
Good luck with yours.

i'm not sure about the washer fix... is that just to fine tune the ball height, because of the rough sets on the shank? that is, the spacing on the shank holes moves the ball an inch at a time, the washers give you fractional adjustment?

[doorgunner]

subfan;
been to the scales yet? I'ld be interested in your weights, as another burb man, that is.
and Joe, I hope you make the final cut!

[boondockdad]

Originally Posted by doorgunner

subfan;
been to the scales yet? I'ld be interested in your weights, as another burb man, that is.
and Joe, I hope you make the final cut!

ha!
thanks,
i've got to get this in line before my next 4000+ mile trek in two weeks...

[subfan1]

The washer adjustment has to do with the angle of the hitch head which is used to transfer weight, it is not used for adjusting hitch height. As you noted in your response, that is what the big holes are for on the shank.

I have not been to the scales yet, I wanted to make my adjustments using the tape measure first. I don't have a scale close by otherwise, that would be my next stop.

I fine tuned my adjustments last week-end at Beckmans parking lot then took the trailer in for service. Getting ready for Thanksgiving week-end trip to Palm Springs.

[markdoane]

Joe,

I have run your numbers through the handy-dandy Crowhurst hitch calculator and came up with the following observations:

By my calculations, you have about 1700# tension in the bars in the first case. This is transfering 700# from your rear axle, adding 490# to the steer axle and 210# to the trailer axle.

The weight distribution is 61% drive axle/39% steer axle.

In the second case you have about 3000# of tension in the bars, and you are unloading about 1260# from the rear axle, adding 880# to the front and 380# to the trailer axle. In this case you are transferring a good deal of passenger and cargo weight off the axle in addition to the tongue weight.

The weight distribution in the second case is 58% drive/42% steer.

(note: bar tension is not the same as bar ratings, 3000#bar tension does not exceed the rating of 1200# bars. 1200# bars are for 1200# tongue weight.)

I agree that you have barely changed the weight distribution in your tow vehicle, even though you have really cranked the bars up. I think the reason you are having trouble getting the axle weights more balanced is the weight you have added as cargo and passengers.

Have you considered taking along another vehicle? Maybe you can unload some of the weight by putting the kids in their own car. I think this would be a good idea as you are over the rated GCWR of your tow vehicle.

But it's your call. I just run the numbers.

[2airishuman]

hi fc'

the 30 with slide is a porker on 2 axles...

don't rely on the factory reported tongue weight,

i'd wager YOUR tongue is over 1400 lbs and perhaps 1500...

after filling with propane and loading the unit.

so

1. scale the trailer and tongue un hitched and level.

IF you have time at the scale, moving cargo INSIDE the trailer and reweighting...

MIGHT lighten the tongue some.

as already stated THERE AREN'T ANY OVERLOAD SPRINGS on your tv...

IF the tongue mass is as expected the w/d bars are UNDER rated.

all the bending in the world will not increase the redistribution IF the bars are maxxed out.

reducing your hitch rating and bars to 750lbs when the tongue is nearly twice that weight is just CRAZY dumb...

without a 3500 or 4500 tow vehicle with dualies.

2. consider HIGHER rated w/d bars...

i realize they aren't easily interchangeable and the entire HITCH may be under rated.

that's one of the many advantanges to the haha, all the w/d bars fit one hitch

and the 'no sway' feature is unaffected by spring bars or their adjustments.

3. you can/might also consider UPGRADING the sub's rear suspension...

by adding an assist spring package.

no this doesn't increase the axle rating but it can help redistribute the tongue mass some.

the 30 slide model really needs a class 5 set up and a "beefier" 3/4 ton mule.

cheers
2air'

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Your hitch rating should be dropped to no more than 750 pounds.

However, because of the hitch rating you have, you will find that the front of the trailer and rear end of your tow vehicle, will no longer be level, but instead will be high. Not a good thing.

Andy

What is the "hitch rating"? The weight carrying capacity of the hitch? Would I be correct in my thinking a WD hitch will change the apparent tongue weight depending on it's setting?

[wkerfoot]

finalcutjoe,

I don't have anything to add to this discussion, but I do have a question. What is the weight rating for your front and rear axles?

Bill

[CanoeStream]

Originally Posted by Marshall

Would I be correct in my thinking a WD hitch will change the apparent tongue weight depending on it's setting?

I don't think that's the case at all. It will only do that if it transfers hitch weight backwards and onto the trailer wheels -- that's not the case. See http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...ers-17984.html. WD gear cranks the TV frame so that some hitch weight is transferred forward to the front wheels. The main purpose is to avoid overloading the rear axle as finalcutjoe is trying to do.

[Road Ruler]

Do you have a GM receiver on the Burb? If so suspect it is the weak link and you are bending it. That is why no weight is being transfered to the front of the vehicle.

[Minnie's Mate]

When I first got mine (set up by dealer) I thought I needed to raise L-brackets to increase the upward force on the spring bars to transfer some of the weight to the front axles. In my mind it would be like applying more force to the the spring bars as if you were lifting up on the handles of a wheel barrow with the rear axle as the pivot point. Turns out I was wrong. By lowering the L-brackets (moving the brackets down so the square headed screw is in a higher hole), I increased the load on the front axle and decreased the load on the rear axle.

When I load the bed of my truck, I raise L-brackets by moving the square headed screw to a lower hole in the L-bracket. One adjustment that was made was to add a washer behind the hitch head to tilt it away from the tow vehicle. This also helped to transfer weight to the front axle.

Apparently there is a good bit of adjustment that needs to be made between the dry weight of the trailer when the dealer set up the hitch and after we added all of our traveling gear and gas to the LP tanks.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Road Ruler

Do you have a GM receiver on the Burb? If so suspect it is the weak link and you are bending it. That is why no weight is being transfered to the front of the vehicle.

TAKE IT FROM SOMEONE WHO KNOWS......GET RID OF THE GM RECIEVER

RECOMMEND A CLASS 5


inspect it carefully it may already have cracked welds




(ps i work at a gm store)

[BillTex]

Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate

When I first got mine (set up by dealer) I thought I needed to raise L-brackets to increase the upward force on the spring bars to transfer some of the weight to the front axles. In my mind it would be like applying more force to the the spring bars as if you were lifting up on the handles of a wheel barrow with the rear axle as the pivot point. Turns out I was wrong. By lowering the L-brackets (moving the brackets down so the square headed screw is in a higher hole), I increased the load on the front axle and decreased the load on the rear axle.

When I load the bed of my truck, I raise L-brackets by moving the square headed screw to a lower hole in the L-bracket. One adjustment that was made was to add a washer behind the hitch head to tilt it away from the tow vehicle. This also helped to transfer weight to the front axle.

Apparently there is a good bit of adjustment that needs to be made between the dry weight of the trailer when the dealer set up the hitch and after we added all of our traveling gear and gas to the LP tanks.

Hi MM, that would be true. I'll bet you can effect the tongue weight by a good 300# after you load up versus a dry trailer.
The infinite adjustability of the Equalizer is one of the characteristics that make it such a great hitch. Once you get it dialed, you shouldn't have to fuss any more.
Sounds like you have it figured out...

Bill

[HiHoAgRV]

wow, that s a lot of weight on the rear axle. Did someone sneek some extra weight in the rear compartment, say a Bambi or two?

[subfan1]

Yes that is true regarding the rear hitch installed on all 2001 through 2006 Suburbans. They are round rather than the square type we have on our Burb.

There is a recall on these hitches. I read it on a past edition of Trailer Life magazine. Sorry, I don't have teh recall number. Take it to a GM dealership and have it replaced.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by subfan1

Yes that is true regarding the rear hitch installed on all 2001 through 2006 Suburbans. They are round rather than the square type we have on our Burb.

There is a recall on these hitches. I read it on a past edition of Trailer Life magazine. Sorry, I don't have teh recall number. Take it to a GM dealership and have it replaced.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...s-34603-4.html

THERE IS NO "RECALL"....YOU WOULD HAVE BEEN NOTIFIED BY MAIL !!!!

THEY HAVE BEEN REPLACEMENTS UNDER 3/36 WARRANTY

REPLACE THE GM RECIEVER WITH A GOOD QUALITY AFTERMARKET!!

THEY HAVEN'T MADE ANY IMPROVEMENTS ON THE RECIEVER AND IT WILL

BE REPLACED WITH A LIKE UNIT UNDER WARRANTY!!!!

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...les-34603.html

SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT!!!!!!

[Foiled Again]

My "sometimers disease" may be kicking in. Time for beddy-bye, but... wouldn't one of those helper wheels (from the Long Long Trailer) take up some of the very high tongue weight of a 30 slide?

And... OMG, crawl under there and look at your hitch receiver! I did that yesterday and nearly crapped. (Of course I'd watched a Silverado info-mercial with Howie Long who mentioned that the NEW 2008 hitch receiver is 171% stronger than the old one .... hmmm shoulda guessed.... would they have fixed it if they didn't know it was broken?

So fellas, where do I take the 'burb to get a new aftermarket hitch receiver before next Sunday?

Paula Ford

[markdoane]

Go to a Hidden Hitch or Rigid Hitch or Reese or Draw-Tite dealer in your town. If they are a stocking dealer they should be able to put one on in a hour. If not, they can get one delivered by Thursday.

[boondockdad]

Talked to EQ hitch tech yesterday... basically, we've got the thing configured properly- albeit, totally maxed out... I think 2Air is right... we must be dealing with significantly more than airstreams published 1050# tongue weight....

could the entire ~460# of fresh water weight be on the tongue?

getting a sherline... i need real numbers...

not that I don't value the information and input of everybody here- you guys have been invaluable- but I haven't been able to find any other mention of Chevy's class IV hitch failures anywhere else...
mine looks fine (although I only have about 600 miles of towing the s/o on it)

although... the idea the hitch is not strong enough to transfer the weight makes sense to me... the chevy hitch does look pretty wimpy compared to box style class IV's...

Q: do you ever stop spending $$$$ on these things??!!!!111

[boondockdad]

Originally Posted by markdoane

Joe,

I have run your numbers through the handy-dandy Crowhurst hitch calculator and came up with the following observations:

By my calculations, you have about 1700# tension in the bars in the first case. This is transfering 700# from your rear axle, adding 490# to the steer axle and 210# to the trailer axle.

The weight distribution is 61% drive axle/39% steer axle.

In the second case you have about 3000# of tension in the bars, and you are unloading about 1260# from the rear axle, adding 880# to the front and 380# to the trailer axle. In this case you are transferring a good deal of passenger and cargo weight off the axle in addition to the tongue weight.

The weight distribution in the second case is 58% drive/42% steer.

(note: bar tension is not the same as bar ratings, 3000#bar tension does not exceed the rating of 1200# bars. 1200# bars are for 1200# tongue weight.)

I agree that you have barely changed the weight distribution in your tow vehicle, even though you have really cranked the bars up. I think the reason you are having trouble getting the axle weights more balanced is the weight you have added as cargo and passengers.

Have you considered taking along another vehicle? Maybe you can unload some of the weight by putting the kids in their own car. I think this would be a good idea as you are over the rated GCWR of your tow vehicle.

But it's your call. I just run the numbers.

GCWR is 20,600
fully loaded I'm at ~16,500

check your numbers