WD hitch, better to be under rated or over rated?

[cgseanp]

Quick question, if my tongue weight is 550 lbs, should I go with 600 or 800 lb weight distribution bars? I figure once propane tanks are full, and the weight of the WD hitch, I'll be over 600.. so, should I go 600, or 800? Thanks!

p.s. I have the E2 Fastway round bar setup with 1000 bars currently. I didn't realize it was an issue to use bars too heavy so now I am trying to decide whether I should get the 600 or 800.

[ROBERT CROSS]

....get an accurate TW at the ball with the trailer loaded for use.
Go to the scales and determine how much you need to move and decide accordingly. It's important to know how much TV rear axle weight you actually have to transfer...it will be different than the trailer TW. 👍
If 550# is the a actual TW, 600 would most likely be good..but weigh to confirm.

I use 1000lb bars to move 840lbs. With a TW of 1200lbs.

Bob
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[cgseanp]

ok, thanks. I guess my question still remains though, if my tongue weight is, say, 625 pounds, should I go with 800 or 600 bars? At what point over 600 lbs should I move up to the 800? Thanks again for the help!

[r carl]

Originally Posted by cgseanp

Quick question, if my tongue weight is 550 lbs, should I go with 600 or 800 lb weight distribution bars? I figure once propane tanks are full, and the weight of the WD hitch, I'll be over 600.. so, should I go 600, or 800? Thanks!

p.s. I have the E2 Fastway round bar setup with 1000 bars currently. I didn't realize it was an issue to use bars too heavy so now I am trying to decide whether I should get the 600 or 800.

Long story short, go with #600 bars.

[ROBERT CROSS]

^
Agree...better to start low, too little TW with a light trailer...not good. 😳

Bob
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[cgseanp]

Well, I ordered 600 lb bars from etrailer and called to verify I’d get them in time for my trip and found out they aren’t in stock so they definitely won’t be here in time!

We are taking a short ish 1200 mile trip soon, so I am either going to use my heavy 1k bars, or I can try to get the 800s. Recommendations?

[rmkrum]

I'm using 1,000 pound bars, against a typical tongue weight around 800 pounds or so--it varies a lot depending on fresh, gray, and black tank fill level on the road and other loads in trailer and pickup bed. I can adjust the exact amount of WD dialed in with the jacks on the ends of the bars (ProPride setup). This seems to give me good range, and the bars flex nicely throughout that range.

If it's easy to adjust your hitch to less or more WD, go for bars that have their high end a bit above what think you need, then fine-tune to get it riding right.

[Martinod]

The ball mount WD hitch head is additional tongue weight and any cargo behind or to the rear of the tow vehicle axle should be added to the tongue wt. total. Any additional cargo you may add forward of the trailer axles over time will increase tonque wt. I would use 800 pound bars. Very easy to exceed your present 600 to perhaps 675 or even over 700. One hundred over capacity bars is really not going to be a major factor. We are not talking that much precision in weight distribution to cause any negative consequences. Just tension the bars one link less and you should be good to go.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by Martinod

The ball mount WD hitch head is additional tongue weight and any cargo behind or to the rear of the tow vehicle axle should be added to the tongue wt. total. Any additional cargo you may add forward of the trailer axles over time will increase tonque wt. I would use 800 pound bars. Very easy to exceed your present 600 to perhaps 675 or even over 700. One hundred over capacity bars is really not going to be a major factor. We are not talking that much precision in weight distribution to cause any negative consequences. Just tension the bars one link less and you should be good to go.

Well said, get the 800 lb. bars if you can before the trip IMO.

What is your tow vehicle cgseanp? That is another factor here IMO. A heavy duty enough tow vehicle could manage your small trailer without weight distribution in a pinch IMO. FYI we use 800 lb. bars on our Reese WD, and set the chain links for a lighter WD touch.

FYI and FWIW

PS -- Eventually, you should incorporate all the variables into the equation when you want a permanent WD solution, including a full weigh-in at the scales, by each wheel if possible, tow vehicle specs incl rear axle specs, etc., trailer weight by wheel and tongue, etc.. All with and without WD in play.

[cgseanp]

2017 tundra 5.7 double cab.. thanks for replies

[cgseanp]

As luck would have it, the 800s are also out of stock. Do I have to worry about anything “catastrophic” by using my 1000 lb bars? We towed it home about 600 miles using the 1k bars and it seemed fine, but then again I don’t have much trailer experience.

[rmkrum]

Just adjust down some, to get just the WD you need. With a Tundra, probably not much needed.

If the front end feels well 'planted', and the rig steers properly, you should be good to go. With my 22' International and the '12 Tacoma, I have to adjust in the WD tension heavy enough to get the front axle properly loaded. Once it is set right, no issues with steering or braking.

Some day, I'll buy a Tundra--I'm a little tired of all the 18-wheelers passing me while I crawl up the mountain passes around here...

[OTRA15]

Well said rmkrum.

Peter

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Just adjust down some, to get just the WD you need. With a Tundra, probably not much needed.

If the front end feels well 'planted', and the rig steers properly, you should be good to go. With my 22' International and the '12 Tacoma, I have to adjust in the WD tension heavy enough to get the front axle properly loaded. Once it is set right, no issues with steering or braking.

Some day, I'll buy a Tundra--I'm a little tired of all the 18-wheelers passing me while I crawl up the mountain passes around here...

Ha! Just go full Californio Commie to “irritate” the truckers. Trade for a 1974 Volvo wagon, first. That smokes. Lurches. Add Birkenstocks, long beard. Nuke the gay whales or gratefully dead bumper stickers; whatever said 1983 or thereabouts. (Some “overlay” that makes the TT look like it spends its life going to craft fairs. Burning Idiot. Whatever).

But wear a bright red MAGA hat. Wave animatedly. Sign in window says moving to Pahrump. Or Lewiston. Key up the CB every time one of them notices you on air with Hank Williams in, “I Saw The Light”. (The clear-eyed fanatic does a 180)

It’d crack’em up — especially the Southerners, they’ve heard plenty of sinners testaments — and they’d line up to buy your fuel.

(Won’t matter at all what you think you believe. Free vacation travel trumps a few HP).

In seriousness, a Ford Flex would be the ideal for a roof full of antennas. And better than any pickemup. Read Andy on those.

.

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by slowmover

Ha! Just go full Californio Commie to “irritate” the truckers. Trade for a 1974 Volvo wagon, first. That smokes. Lurches. Add Birkenstocks, long beard. Nuke the gay whales or gratefully dead bumper stickers; whatever said 1983 or thereabouts. (Some “overlay” that makes the TT look like it spends its life going to craft fairs. Burning Idiot. Whatever).

-----snip---------

.

Sigh. Navy veteran during Vietnam era, instead of a draft dodger in Canada. Sold the yellow '77 Volvo 245 wagon we bought new years ago after many camping trips under canvas using it...got tired of personally fixing obsolete hardware after owning that beast for over 21 years. Birkenstocks and my arches never did match quite right. Gave up on Chicken Band radios and got a real Ham Radio license.

Beard went away when DW decided she didn't like it anymore. Tried like hell to find the ultimate p.o. bumper sticker, "Nuke a gay whale for Christ," or something like that. Still looking for it. Was considering adding an NRA Life Member decal, but I suspect the locals would roll and burn my car...in peaceful protest, of course.

Guess I'm just not fitting in anymore, or ever did for that matter. Retired, still working full-time for a living, still playing with computers for that same living, still writing entirely too much on subjects that interest me. Guess I'm really related to 'Bob the Dinosaur' in the Dilbert comic strip...actually did COBOL programming. Still have a pocket protector with 25 pens, pencils and other implements in it, and I need all of them, yes. Carry a Swiss Army knife and a bandanna out of long-standing habit. Wear steel-toed shoes, ditto reason.

Oh well, never have been politically or aerodynamically correct--have a build similar to a certain flightless waterfowl (Opus). I'm comfortable in my skin, and I don't have to fear the guy in the mirror when I'm shaving...so I guess I'm doing alright.

You?

[smithcreek]

FYI, the Reese website refers to weight ranges for the different bars. The weight range for the 800 lb. max bars is 400-800. That's why I ended up with them on my FC20 with a 630 lb. tongue weight. Puts it right in the middle of the range. Our trailer came with The 600 lb. bars, rated 300-600. With the 800 lb bars my rig rides better, less porpoising, easy to transfer weight to the front wheels.

[52HalfTon]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

I'm using 1,000 pound bars, against a typical tongue weight around 800 pounds or so--it varies a lot depending on fresh, gray, and black tank fill level on the road and other loads in trailer and pickup bed. I can adjust the exact amount of WD dialed in with the jacks on the ends of the bars (ProPride setup). This seems to give me good range, and the bars flex nicely throughout that range.

If it's easy to adjust your hitch to less or more WD, go for bars that have their high end a bit above what think you need, then fine-tune to get it riding right.

You never know what your tongue weight is until you measure it with a tongue weight scale like a Sherline. Don’t go by the nominal from Airstream. It will be more. Then it goes up with weight of the hitch and any stuff behind the TV rear axel. Your total weight should be in the range of the spring bar.

I use a Centerline TS. Their set-up instructions say the goal is a level rig and setting the spring bars is how you achieve it. Weighing each axel at a truck scale is how you verify that the weight distribution keeps all your axels in spec when you are leveled.

I don’t understand the comments about ride adjustment by using lower capacity bars or lighter settings. In my case, lowering the spring bar setting or a smaller bar would allow the hitch to sag (not level). Seems like a catch-22 to me. How do you have both?

[PKI]

Originally Posted by 52HalfTon

-- snip --I don’t understand the comments about ride adjustment by using lower capacity bars or lighter settings. -- snip --

The reason is that not all lashups require the same weight transfer. A stiff tow vehicle needs less weight transfer and with lighter bars, that can be achieved while the coach gets a better ride. If your TV is less stiff, it may need more weight transfer to balance the rig tune. Hitch designs have a variable impact as well. On some designs the weight transfer and sway control are dependent. On others they are independent. There is also the tactic of how you load your tow vehicle. Less weight transfer is required if more weight is carried between the TV axles. How you load and tune your rig is variable and you really need to weigh and test your lash up.

Good luck. Understand what forces you are applying and how they impact the stability of your rig. It's an interesting adventure, but be conservative. Pat

Edit - the hitch you are using is a friction sway control hitch. The weight transfer and sway control are dependent. The more weight preload, the more friction. It's not a catch 22, it's the hitch design. Take severe road surface transitions with care.

[JJTX]

I spoke directly to FASTWAY about this issue because of this discussion, and the 550LB tongue weight on the 19".

I Said, will the 800 8000 trunnion make for a more 'harsh' ride vs the 600-6000.

They said NO.

They did say the 10,000LB rated hitch on a light trailer like my Bambi 19, would be noticed however the 800/8000 vs the 600/6000 since there is an in-between tongue weight, would not be perceptible.

They said that using the 600LB rated hitch ona trailer with a 550 weight was a bad idea because you would likely exceed the hitch rating.

So I got the 800/8000.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by JJTX

I spoke directly to FASTWAY about this issue because of this discussion, and the 550LB tongue weight on the 19".

I Said, will the 800 8000 trunnion make for a more 'harsh' ride vs the 600-6000.

They said NO.

They did say the 10,000LB rated hitch on a light trailer like my Bambi 19, would be noticed however the 800/8000 vs the 600/6000 since there is an in-between tongue weight, would not be perceptible.

They said that using the 600LB rated hitch ona trailer with a 550 weight was a bad idea because you would likely exceed the hitch rating.

So I got the 800/8000.

"They said that using the 600LB rated hitch on a trailer with a 550 weight was a bad idea because you would likely exceed the hitch rating."

Baloney...even a class one hitch is rated at 2000lb. The rating of the bars is spring weight not receiver rating.

You won't need to move 550lb of TW, possibly as little as 150-200lbs. Sounds like a sales pitch to me.😂

Bob
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