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**wulfraat** · 08-29-2019, 06:31 PM

Cool thanks all. I will move back to 4 washers.

CarterKraft · 08-29-2019, 06:50 PM

I like it level to slightly down at the rear so once hooked it is at least level or again down. When the bars apply all the torque it will pull it up a fair amount.

That feature is a major drawback of the Hensley, the ability to tilt the stinger.

BAB · 08-29-2019, 07:40 PM

I went back and forth from 4 to 3 to 2 washers. Finally, I decided I was being overly finicky about EXACTLY how much pitch I needed on the stinger. I settled at 2 washers a couple of years ago. Then I got a 2019 Ram 2500 Limited a few months ago. I'm doing the washer thing all over again!

Wulffrat, you did just an awesome job planning and executing your lithium install. Thanks so much. I learned some things that made my removal of 300+ pounds of Lifeline 6V AGM's to 4 of the Battle Borns. I was able to find really current updates for my Magnum MSH 30 amp inverter and it's control unit to accommodate the new batteries. My 600W of solar was also pretty simple to reset.

What I love about AF is you can ALWAYS learn from someone else's experience. It surely does keep you from the old adage, "you make mistakes until you learn from them." I didn't want to much make mistakes with 4 very expensive LiPo batteries!!

**wulfraat** · 08-29-2019, 10:22 PM

Yes that was a fun project and I was happy that execution was what I had hoped for. Having lots of energy storage and production makes for easy off grid living [emoji4]

I find that I always need to have an interesting project in flight to keep my mind busy [emoji4] hence the Propride!

I hitched back up tonight and all is looking very well balanced and level. 30’ trailer is level within 1/2” and GMC 2500 diesel TV is level within 1/2”.

I really like that you can so easily adjust the WD with the propride. I need very little when I am unloaded in the rear bed... but when I fully packed for camping I’m sure I’ll want to apply a little more tension on the bars. With a larger diesel truck that starts life with 4,600 lbs on the front axle and 3,500 on the rear you can lay off WD and still maintain sway control which is great... smooths our the ride for sure.

I’m off to the Rocky Mountains for 3 days off grid. Happy Labor Day weekend and thanks AF for all the advice on the hitch calibration.

ghaynes755 · 08-30-2019, 08:37 AM

I seem to remember that the alignment of the stinger should be level or slightly down. Each washer past level moves 100# to the front axle based on same height on the jacks.

dznf0g · 08-30-2019, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghaynes755

I seem to remember that the alignment of the stinger should be level or slightly down. Each washer past level moves 100# to the front axle based on same height on the jacks.

My feeling is that the amount of downward tilt should be a function of the amount of slop clearance between your particular receiver and the stinger shank.
Next to a quality and properly adjusted brake controller, this adjustment was the biggest eliminator of the "bump". I also visualize an increased edge loading of the head bearings when the loaded head is off parallel relative to the truck and trailer frame.

dznf0g · 08-30-2019, 09:30 AM

I also believe the head bearings should be adjusted substantially tighter than one would adjust for wheel bearings.

J. Morgan · 08-30-2019, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wulfraat

Got it. Will move forward. Shim up / raise the tank cover and slide the little guide bars underneath....... for now...

Frankly, I don't think that small deviation from vertical will make any difference.

Just my opinion though.

lsbrodsky · 08-30-2019, 01:30 PM

I have always found that if I leave the WD jacks alone after disconnecting, I never have any trouble hooking up when it is time to leave, regardless of the terrain. But, there have been a few times where the stinger angle had changed because of installing a new one or, in one case, my dealer did something to it. When the angle changed between disconnect and reconnect, hooking up was more difficult requiring getting the WD jacks dialed in just right.
Larry

CarterKraft · 08-30-2019, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wulfraat

I really like that you can so easily adjust the WD with the propride. I need very little when I am unloaded in the rear bed... but when I fully packed for camping I’m sure I’ll want to apply a little more tension on the bars. With a larger diesel truck that starts life with 4,600 lbs on the front axle and 3,500 on the rear you can lay off WD and still maintain sway control which is great... smooths our the ride for sure.

I’m off to the Rocky Mountains for 3 days off grid. Happy Labor Day weekend and thanks AF for all the advice on the hitch calibration.

This is another awesome point about the pivot projection hitches. Since switching to a dually from my Excursion I run very little tension on the bars when FULLY loaded because It transfers so much weight to the trailer axles I can exceed my trailer axle rating. The dually can handle the tongue weight no problem and the trailer is still in full control due to the design of the hitch.

**wulfraat** · 08-31-2019, 11:41 AM

Ok so another item for this group. Getting the hitch dialed in now... 95% there....

I am getting a slight “thunk” / “clunk” when coming out of turns at slow (15mph) or high (45mph) speeds when tension is on the hitch.... for instance I came up a twisty 15 mile mountain road yesterday up to Estes park doing about 40-45 and as I transitioned out of a turn and into the next one there was a slight there was a slight “thunk” when the hitch was moving across center... this is when the hitch is under load (pulling the trailer uphill)...

I’m kinda writing it off as tension on the links as the snap into center position and then are pushed in the other direction...

Anyone else experience this?

As for first impressions - it tows very nicely, smooth, and very well behaved on the road. Honestly my equalizer did a good job, I never had sway in 10 years.... but it was a “harsher” connection to the trailer - transferred more shock and energy to the trailer and vice versa. The PPP has the trailer really just kinda floating behind the truck, and with tapered WD bars and less tension needed it has smoothed out the ride some. Handles nice at 75mph on the freeway and through twisty mountain roads alike.

I like that I’ve gained about a foot more clearance from the tail gate - that was a bonus.

No issues at all hitching or unhitching this far, and it think it’s a bit faster / less steps than the equalizer...

ROBERT CROSS · 08-31-2019, 12:33 PM

Start at this post and go forward...it could be that the head is not aligned properly.👍

Bob
🇺🇸

**wulfraat** · 08-31-2019, 12:36 PM

Sweet thanks Bob. I may be 1/4” off center now that I’m carefully measuring the slot that the yoke tail fits into....

ROBERT CROSS · 08-31-2019, 12:45 PM

A pic might help...this is SteveSueMac PPP

Bob
🇺🇸

**wulfraat** · 09-02-2019, 02:01 PM

Thanks again Bob. My yoke tail was slightly off center.... made an adjustment at the campsite and drove on home 60 miles.... problem solved.

ONESICKPUPPY · 09-05-2019, 01:59 PM

Sorry if this has already been said. I've read a ton of pages and I haven't seen if anyone has solved the issue of the spring bars hanging down low. I love this hitch it pulls my 28rb perfectly but it drags on everything. I've even thought about fabing up some spring bars that are straight and at least gain a few inches. Has anyone ran the hitch without the spring bars? I wonder if that would damage the hitch head.

CarterKraft · 09-05-2019, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ONESICKPUPPY

Sorry if this has already been said. I've read a ton of pages and I haven't seen if anyone has solved the issue of the spring bars hanging down low. I love this hitch it pulls my 28rb perfectly but it drags on everything. I've even thought about fabing up some spring bars that are straight and at least gain a few inches. Has anyone ran the hitch without the spring bars? I wonder if that would damage the hitch head.

This is a trailer specific deal and some AS trailers are just super low at the tongue. If it were mine and new warranty wasn't a concern I think I would change to higher ball location coupler or simply have the coupler raised. If that option is a no go then you don't have allot of choices using either brand PP hitch.

There is a WD hitch on the market with over slung bars vs under but it is not a pivot point projection hitch.

To your question about not using the weight bars is you can remove them if needed. I can't say if its allowed per ProPride or Hensley but it still works just fine.

**wulfraat** · 09-05-2019, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ONESICKPUPPY

Sorry if this has already been said. I've read a ton of pages and I haven't seen if anyone has solved the issue of the spring bars hanging down low. I love this hitch it pulls my 28rb perfectly but it drags on everything. I've even thought about fabing up some spring bars that are straight and at least gain a few inches. Has anyone ran the hitch without the spring bars? I wonder if that would damage the hitch head.

Yes, incredibly low on an airstream. I thankfully have a dexter 3” lift on my 30’. That most definitely helps!

ONESICKPUPPY · 09-05-2019, 04:45 PM

Thank you CarterKraft and wulfraat. The over slung spring bars sounds like a really cool idea. But I would rather stay with the pp. I might look into changing out the coupler or moving it up. I used to be a fabricator so I'm ok with that but the warranty would probably go out the window. My last Airstream had a 3'' lift on it and that helped but It didn't seem to pull as smoothly when it was lower to the ground. It seems to catch wind a little more. Not sure what I'll do yet. I've already bent the bolts under the weight distribution bars from dragging them on the ground. I'm curious what other people are doing about the height if anything. I'm thinking If I took the same size solid tubing and built my own spring bars I could gain a couple inches. If I come up with something I'll post pics.

sande005 · 02-13-2020, 09:17 AM

Hi all - first post. Don't be too harsh - I own a SOB (Some Other Brand) trailer....but this seems to be the spot to discuss/ask about all things ProPride. The basics:

TV: 2012 F-150, Eco, 4x4, 6.5 box, Max Tow, HDPP. Payload = 2166. "E" tires (Michelin) at 80 lbs. Airbags (but only minimal inflation).

Trailer: 33', 7,600 lbs.

Trailer as delivered was light on the tongue - about 11%, and couldn't do much to change it. Got sway. Got the PP, 1400 bars, over 2 years ago. Currently with the PP and addition of 2 6v, TW is 950 or about 12.5%

Of course, sway is gone. Have put about 6,000 miles on the PP. Tracking seems great.

But, especially on the last trip, porpoising and truck suck seemed pretty bad. So much, the other driver has spent the winter looking at other RV/Truck options, as she does not want to drive this setup...

My storage lot insists on moving the trailer themselves. I leave the stinger in the hitch, so they could use the receiver on their tractor to move it. But caught them prior to the last trip just looping chains around the stinger assembly, lifting the trailer by those, and dragging it around that way.

Nothing appears to have shifted, but I plan (after the snow melts) to go through the entire setup process again to verify everything.

Any particular aspects I should concentrate on, to ensure I minimize the potential for porpoising/truck suck? Or is it just too much tail wagging the dog?

Rear end drop of the truck isn't too bad, front is back to original height. Hence haven't done much with the airbags. Was thinking to fully hitch up, adjust bags to get truck to same level as unhitched. THEN use that as the baseline when going through the setup process. Would this be the correct order to do things? Will a bit of trailer nose down also help?