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loudruff · 10-11-2009, 09:52 PM

We are looking forward to 2air's in-depth and precise description and use of the PP hitch. We have had ours since Mar. and have been pulling the '89-29 ft. Excella1000 with a Ford E350 extended van (15 passenger). As with yours, our install went without a "hitch". No problems, and excellent towing results. Previously, we had some experience with orange paint. We are absolutely thrilled with the PP.
There is one recent "handling" improvement that I have made.

rochar3 · 10-12-2009, 03:06 PM

Hello:
I recently purchased a PP and have put over 9000 miles since June 09. Round trip to Nova Scotia from NW Indiana and round trip to Beaufort SC. So far, couldn't be more pleased with hitch. Used to have HAHA and found that hitching up is very easy. Throw away the tongue twister, you do not need it anymore. Very stable and no sway. Every bit as good or better than HAHA. Was in some very uneven terrain on these trips and was absolutely amazed at how easy it was to hitch up. I do it without any help whatsoever and have yet to have a problem. See my post on PP website.
Bob

rochar3 · 10-12-2009, 03:11 PM

Hello;
Finally had a chance to really test the new hitch. See previous post for circumstances.
Round trip to Nova Scotia from NW Indiana. All kinds of conditions and weather. Hitch performed as advertised and one great feature over Orange is ease of hooking up. No comparison to Orange. Much, Much easier to hook up. Throw away your tongue twister. No more need for it. Wish my GY marathons were as safe as the 3P hitch Had two blowouts and the 3P hitch kept everything under control. If you have Good Year marathons on your trailer, you should definitely have the Pro Pride.
All in all, a good trip with no sway, ease of hookup and relaxed traveling. Could not be more pleased.
Bob Adney

Devoman · 10-19-2009, 02:55 PM

I have been towing the Airstream around every now and then to get a feel for my new PP and one thing I do love about this is that the Receiver or adjustable hitch fits perfectly into my hitch.The receiver on my Equalizer hitch is very small compared to this one.I even use the hitch rider clamp to bolt it down just in case it wants to move just a bit.No more rattling hitch or thunk.

Ag&Au · 10-19-2009, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Devoman

I have been towing the Airstream around every now and then to get a feel for my new PP and one thing I do love about this is that the Receiver or adjustable hitch fits perfectly into my hitch.The receiver on my Equalizer hitch is very small compared to this one.I even use the hitch rider clamp to bolt it down just in case it wants to move just a bit.No more rattling hitch or thunk.

I noticed the same thing when I switched. My Equal-I-Zer was very sloppy in the receiver. The PP is a very nice fit.
Regards,
Ken

SteveH · 10-19-2009, 08:26 PM

After all the cleaning, sanding, and painting, I finally got the hitch installed this afternoon. Some pictures:

SteveH · 10-19-2009, 08:30 PM

Drove down to a parking lot and adjusted the bars for the same front fender ride height of my previous hitch. Glad I got the 1000 pound bars. I started to get the 800's, but I don't think they would have been strong enough.

The little bit that I drove the rig, it seems good. Going to a rally in two weeks, so will know more after that.

2airishuman · 10-19-2009, 08:41 PM

looks GREAT steve!

and another nice carry handle modification on the stinger.

either the sun was VERY LOW in the sky...

or U R one long legged texan (see the last pic)...

cheers
2air'

SteveH · 10-19-2009, 09:13 PM

Thanks, 2air. I had that carry handle on the Reese, and when it worked out there was a place for it, I just moved it over.

I took the pictures this afternoon, and the one of the rig in the parking lot was just before sundown. I knew my shadow would be in there, but figured if I took it from the other side I would only get the silluette of the truck and trailer.

The only thing I really noticed about the hitch is there is a slight difference in backing. Where I park the trailer is behind my shop, so I have to back it in the driveway, and then turn it to get it in place. There wasn't a problem, but it did feel different.

The only mods I did was I had to shorten the set screw bolts used on the jacks because of the tool box, and I used Locktite on all the bolts.

Can't wait to get it out on the road and see how it all works.

2airishuman · 10-19-2009, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveH

...The only thing I really noticed about the hitch is there is a slight difference in backing. Where I park the trailer is behind my shop, so I have to back it in the driveway, and then turn it to get it in place. There wasn't a problem, but it did feel different....

backing up is a bit different for several reasons...

the articulation is now LONGER (trailer further from truck) so u may need a little more starting space for backing/turns.

the 4 bar design creates some magic/voodoo at the beginning of turns (that's as technical as i wanna get right now)

the hitch allows for MORE angulation in turns...

NO cams and NO friction gizmos, so SQUEAKING is not an issue,

and no need to relax the w/d bars just to back up.

the awareness of these differences quickly fades with use and saddle time.

hope your trip goes well and the new sensation of wiggle free towing is 2 your liking!

cheers
2air'

SteveH · 11-01-2009, 11:54 AM

OK, just back from my first trip with the PP hitch, and I can only say one thing about it....it works. It does exactly what Sean claims it will do, it eliminates sway, period.

We only went about 100 miles from home, but I noticed the improvment quickly. In the past with the Reese Dual Cam hitch, there was a slight amount of "wiggle" induced when we crossed the minor breaks in the pavement when crossing bridges, and when hitting irregularities in the surface of the pavement, etc. There was a slight tendency for the trailer to want to sway in a cross wind that always required a slight amount of corrective action with the steering wheel. In short, the driver allways had to be making small corrective inputs to the wheel, and allways had to be at attention. All of these tendencies are not reduced, they are eliminated.

About the last 20 miles of our trip out, we had a significant cross wind (I estimate a 20-25 mph wind), and I commented to my wife that I could feel the wind hitting the rig, but there was no sway, and to illustrate, I took my hands of the wheel momentarily, and the whole rig continued absolutely straight down the road even while you could feel the wind hitting us.

In short, the hitch really works well...much better than any of the previous "anti sway" hitches I've owned ever could have. At this point, I only wish I had bought one sooner.

One happy camper,
Steve

**moosetags** · 11-01-2009, 12:33 PM

Even though I have been extremely satisfied with Lucy's HAHA for over three years and 50,000 towing miles, I have been taking a serious look at the PP for two reasons. One, it has a height adjustable hitch bar. On my HAHA, I have tried a 4" drop and it pulls high, and my current 6" drop pulls a little low. The other item is that the HAHA still works great, but looks like crap. I am wondering if the PP is more aesthetically durable.

I realize that PP is producing a height adjustable hitch bar for the HAHA. I have considered getting one of these, but at $500, I am wondering if I should just sell the HAHA and get a new PP. I tow 20,000 miles a year, so this is not out of the question.

In the most recent edition of the Hensley Safe Towing Newsletter there is an article about Hensley trying to develop their own height-adjustable hitch bar. Hensley discontinued this project when their test showed that it could not be made strong enough to handle the extreme tensions put on the hitch bar by the weight distribution function and the lateral tensions of the sway control function. Hensley claims that a welded hitch bar is the only way to go.

Is this sour grapes, or is there something to this information? Having two different tow vehicles, I would love to have a height-adjustable hitch bar.

What are your thoughts?

Brian

2airishuman · 11-01-2009, 12:46 PM

good report steveH

but careful with the testimonials HERE...

they tend to attract YESBUTTS

who will post about NOT NEEDING this gizmo.

the "two fingers" and relaxed posture for steering...

vs WHITE KNUCKLES and a tight backside,

is a major league GOOD THING.
_______

Quote:

Originally Posted by moosetags

Having two different tow vehicles, I would love to have a height-adjustable hitch bar...

hi brian

i had (and still have) some of the same questions about welded vs bolted...

and my PREFECT drop was also in-between 4 and 6 inches...

so the pp stinger is set at ~5.2 inches,

and with the ANGLING up/down feature...

the increments of change are almost infinite.

I WILL BE POSTING

detailed pics and comparisons of the 2 stingers 2morrow...

so stay tuned.

and hold on to your draw bar...

cheers
2air'

SteveH · 11-01-2009, 07:25 PM

I will say I found one little "issue" with the PP hitch. At times during the first leg of the trip, it felt like the truck was pulling to the Right, but it was slight. I had never experienced this before with the Reese hitch.

After thinking a while about what could possibly cause this, I started measuring, and found that even though I had both jacks raised the exact same distance (6"), the bars were different distance from a reference point on the trailer "A" frame. The difference between the two bars was about 3/16". I checked the symetry of the installation, side to side, and could find no issues. I checked the two steel straps that go from the jacks to the bars and could find no difference. So, I decided the slight difference must be between where the "hooks" were welded onto the two jacks, something that was difficult for me to measure.

I ended up adjusting for the 3/16" difference at the "U" bolts that attach the steel straps to the bars. By tightening one, and loosening the other, I got both bars the exact same distance under the trailer "A" frame when the jacks were the same distance up in adjustment.

I did not notice any pulling in the steering of the TV on the return trip. I can't say for sure that this slight difference in measurement is a problem, or that it caused the slight pull I felt in the steering, but at least I feel better knowing both bars are at the same distance, and at least theoretically are carrying the same load.

Devoman · 11-01-2009, 07:31 PM

So far I can tell a huge difference in towing.It was very stable and very nice while driving.I drove about 760 miles so far and I am about to leave tomorrow and will be driving another 470 miles to my next destination.
Before I leave tomorrow I will be doing maintenance to see how everything is on the hitch such as bolts,grease,receiver hitch and whatever else is needed.
I am loving the fact that I dont have to hear the popping and cracking of the old hitch I had and not have to take 15 minutes or more to hook up.I can hook up in just a few minutes with the PP.
I will have another update when I get to my other destination tomorrow.

2airishuman · 11-01-2009, 07:54 PM

good report devo'

had a feeling you would notice a BIG difference with the short wheelbase t-rex.

when u INSPECT i think it's important to include the vw receiver in your list.

i know the bolts are buried under bumper fascia but still you need to keep an eye on the receiver...

how's the w/d working with the autoleveln' on the vdub ???
_______________

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveH

... it felt like the truck was pulling to the Right, but it was slight...

hi steve it could have been the small w/d bar difference,

but take a look at the YOKE and frame bracket too. (posts #10 and 17)

my understanding is that IF either of these is much OFF the midline,

one may experience a little pulling 2 one side or the other.

it's pretty easy to get the bracket centered but lining up the Yoke is a tad more effort.

go back over the section in the OFFICIAL pp instructions,

where setup discusses 'straight tv/straight trailer' and the hitch head/yoke...

((i will do a long focused string of posts on THAT topic later this month))

and i cannot over state how IMPORTANT it is to KEEP the w/d bars (inserts) LUBRICATED.

pump the zerks till grease is OOOZING OUT. wipe off the excess and do it again after towing/turning some.

after a few weeks you'll get a feel for how OFTEN to re-grease,

but until then MORE is good.

cheers
2air'

Devoman · 11-01-2009, 08:21 PM

I played with the W/D for a while and now have the adjusters at 3 inches high.I moved it a 1/2 inch more upwards but it started to pull the vehicles back end up pretty high.So I have the setting perfect now at the 3 inches.

Ag&Au · 11-01-2009, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Devoman

So far I can tell a huge difference in towing.It was very stable and very nice while driving.I drove about 760 miles so far and I am about to leave tomorrow and will be driving another 470 miles to my next destination.
Before I leave tomorrow I will be doing maintenance to see how everything is on the hitch such as bolts,grease,receiver hitch and whatever else is needed.
I am loving the fact that I dont have to hear the popping and cracking of the old hitch I had and not have to take 15 minutes or more to hook up.I can hook up in just a few minutes with the PP.
I will have another update when I get to my other destination tomorrow.

Hi devo'
Just a thought - when I think of slight pulling to right, the first thing that pops in my mind is a crowned or sloping road.
Regarding 2air's mention of the yoke:
I had an experience with that. On one of the first short tows I made with the hitch, I had to make very hard turn. Due to a couple of things that I have since corrected, the yoke shifted to one side as far as the brackets would allow. It still towed fine except that every time I applied the brakes, it would pull noticeably to the right.
Regards,
Ken

Ag&Au · 11-01-2009, 08:38 PM

On my trailer, the chain attachment point on the A frame is only 3-4 inches behind the back of the Main hitch unit, That combined with the hitch drop necessary with my truck, means that the chains have to drop nearly vertical, go under the hitch head, and then climb very steeply to get to the chain attachment points on the truck. In order to get enough slack to remain clear of the hitch parts, they are only about 2 inches off the road.
If anyone can understand what I am trying to describe, does that sound normal/OK?
Thanks,
Ken

2airishuman · 11-01-2009, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by w7ts

...In order to get enough slack to remain clear of the hitch parts, they are only about 2 inches off the road.
If anyone can understand what I am trying to describe, does that sound normal/OK?...

hi ken

i understand but it would be SO much easier to visualize it with...

come on, what's that thing called?

a photo

yeah, yeah, the cat ate the camera and the trailer is in storage, but still....
____________

anyway my vote is for 2 inches of CLEARANCE between the hitch/chains.

not 2 inches from the road.

in fact i'd not worry about the chains being pretty CLOSE to the w/d bars-hitch head area...

because the chains DROP AWAY from the mechanicals with all turning...

and since ANY turn will effectively LENGTHEN the chains,

so they COULD drag on turns, IF only 2 inches above the road when straight.

some folks bunge the chain slack.

and keep an eye on SCUFFING on the lowest links.

my suggestion is 4 U 2 inspect the chain position after stopping with the tv/trailer ANGLED 90 degrees...

and while u r doing THAT...

hold the cat up, focus and push the CLICK button...

cheers
2air'