The Andersen WD Hitch User Thread

[Andrew T]

Can Am exploded the bushings in that range of compression in his attempt to discount the Andersen.

Hi Howie. I did not buy and Anderson in an attempt to discount it, I think many portions of the design are very innovative. On repeated tests the bushings have never exploded but they are very compressed.

I have been trying to acheive weight transfer with it even with some modifications but so far it has not been possible except on the very lightest and shortest combinations.

All my testing and use over the years points to proper weight transfer being extreamly important. However 95% of the trailers on the road with conventional hitches are not set up to acheive proper weight transfer.

If comparing a convention weight distribution set up without proper weight transfer to an Anderson without proper weight transfer the Anderson will feel better due to the very precise and powerful sway control.

As I said before I have a concern with a powerful sway control that you cannot turn off combined with too little weight on the tow vehicle front tires. This combination can cause loss of steering in slippery conditions, which we encounter quite frequently in our area.

My other concern is that with a conventional weight distribution the torsion bars force the ball up into the coupler. You could tow for a million miles with the coupler unlocked and never loose the trailer. In 43 years and thousands of customers towing millions of miles I have never had a customer loose a trailer and I don't really want to start now.

Not that I won't keep playing with it but the product is not there yet. For those of you experimenting that is great, like with any peice of equipment be aware of the limitations.

Just to clarify.

Andrew T

[TG Twinkie]

I tend to agree with AndrewT.
I am still in the analysis stage of this hitch.
As for the sway control. The amount of force is based on the tongue weight. (Obviously) The heavier the tongue weight the more aggressive the sway control.
I like the Andersen so far. It seems to work well for me. But I have what one would consider a mid size trailer, 26' with a GVWR of 6200#. I have never exceeded 5600# when loaded and ready to travel. Tongue weight is 700#.
I believe the air bags I installed on the Tundra help to assist the Andersen in my case. Because, I don't have to put as great of force on the bushings to get the hitch height at the proper level for travel.
While I haven't been able to return the front axle weight of the TV to the unloaded weight totally. It is within 100 pounds when hitched. And the fender height is virtually the same.
I usually carry 300 pounds of "stuff" in the back of the truck, including the spare for the trailer. I believe the air bags help here as well. In preventing any squat caused by the cargo and passengers in the truck prior to hitching.
I only run 20# of air in the bags, which is ( according to Firestone) about 680 pounds of load carrying capacity.
What I see in my simple analysis. The Andersen prevents the "porpoising" along with providing sway control. By preventing the "porpoising", the rear axle of the TV does not act as the fulcrum point and therefore it gives more stability to the steering axle.
Since I am still in the analysis stage. I have installed a safety chain over the coupler, to prevent the coupler from coming off of the ball. Which I see as an unlikely event in my travels so far.
I also believe that a mid size trailer may be at the upper limit of the Andersen capability. Although I don't have any data to back it up.
As for conventional WD systems. I believe they have drawbacks as well. As stated above, 95% of them are not set up properly. Which means they don't really provide the weight distribution or they are placing undue and extreme forces on the TV hitch assembly and the trailer frame.
As we all know. A$ trailers don't like to be stressed.
IMHO

[TG Twinkie]

I should point out the 20# in the air bags is with the truck loaded and the full hitch weight applied.
I think the airbags dampen the "boing" or "slingshot" effect of the TV's suspension system. Which also helps with the steering stability.

[Road Ruler]

We started towing the 23 with our Nissan Van when it was 10 years. It had 180,000 miles on it at that time. There was some rear bounce. Installed a set of good F150 shocks on the rear and they smoothed out the ride. Using a vintage Reese Dual Cam.

[Rendrag]

Since Ford and Chevrolet are now requiring 50% or less restoration in many situations with small to midsized trailers (4,000-7,000 pounds), the Andersen may well meet the needs of many. I never was one that forced the front axle back to its original weight anyway, with no bad results. I also don't carry around extra weights to rebalance the vehicle after passengers enter or exit. I don't add weight to the front end when I put a few bags of cement near the tailgate either. I agree that the Andersen hitch is a work in progress but one that gives a good towing experience right now, for me.

[mrad]

Originally Posted by HowieE

What is your trailer?

I don't have a picture of the bushings loaded but I think it is less than 3/16 with my 34 fter.

2011 Palimino Sabre

Palomino RV - Manufacturer of Quaility RVs since 1968

In 2011 the ship weight was 8,200 lbs with a dry tongue weight of around 1,000 lbs

[dkottum]

I am a dedicated but cautious user of the Andersen hitch. Dedicated because it works so well for us, and cautious mostly because it is a new product.

Andrew Thomson's first test with the Andersen (an earlier post with photo that looks staged) makes me wonder what the heck he was trying to do. But I fully understand his position as a businessman who sends thousands of hitched trailers out to the highways.

He must ensure these things work for him without question. He has a system that does work and is not about to risk a change of any kind if unsure. And the small vehicle/large trailer combos he uses are entirely dependent on weight distribution for their success, to the point of having to build or reinforce hitches to accommodate them.

I will look forward to any further tests CanAm does with the Andersen, but from the viewpoint of a cautious user, not a businessman. The hitch is certainly innovative and has many advantages, so we will see how this all plays out over time. If its advantages are recognized and accepted I am sure their will be similar designs by others in the future.

doug k

[Andrew T]

Hi Doug

There was nothing staged about the earlier photos they were just the result of trying to acheive weight transfer with the hitch. However you are correct that I could not sell the Anderson in its present state of development.

To say that we do not try anything new is really not correct. We have tested pretty much every hitch available when we see something better we are open to endorsing it. Though we may have developed the set up of a conventional hitch to a very high level we were the first and are still the largest Hensley dealer. The reason is that when we tested the Hensley not only did it have a superior "on highway" feel it was also faster in our slalom and 50' lane change tests. Not only was it faster it was also much easier to drive at the limits.

Weight transfer is much just as important but much harder to acheive on pick ups and full size suv's.

Andrew T

[dkottum]

Andrew T., perhaps "staged" was a poor choice of words, but my attempt to describe the fact that the Airstream appeared perfectly level while the tow vehicle was very low in the back.

That is not possible with a properly adjusted Andersen hitch, I questioned it at the time, and you explained that after failure to get proper weight distribution, you set it up that way for a road test. That's reasonable, but the picture should not have been posted without the explanation.

It appears to exaggerate the claim that the hitch cannot transfer weight properly.

doug k

[floridalarry]

Okay guys, I am really confused. As you know the Andersen ate my shark fin and I will not tow my 28' Classic without installing a new coupler. I have a couple of options: Replace my Atwood with another Atwood or Marvel, remove the Anderson and go back to my Blue Ox. I would not keep the Anderson and modify the hitch by drilling a hole in it and modify the paw shank as Howie suggested. If there is a failure, I don't want the coupler manufacture released from liability because I modified the product. I'm not sure Andersen will refund my money and its past the 30 days to contest the credit card charge.

I like everything about the Andersen and hate everything about the Blue Ox, but if I install a QuickBite and have the problem of the clearance between the QB and Anderson, it has just cost me the cost of a QB and installation.

Question, if I purchase the QB and prior to installing it, put it on the Andersen 2 5/16 ball and check the clearance and it appears to be okay, how much will it move forward with the trailer attached?

[TG Twinkie]

I think it would be hard to tell by just placing the QB on the ball by hand. Since there is no way you could apply the force that the Andersen would when set up.
Given the apparent clearance problem with the adjustable ball mount that Andersen supplies. I am not sure if there is enough clearance for a coupler like the Bulldog. Since it has it's hinge point in front of the ball. However, the QB seems to have considerable material in front of the ball when hitched. The brackets for the flags, etc.. So it may only be a problem with the QB.

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by floridalarry

Okay guys, I am really confused. As you know the Andersen ate my shark fin and I will not tow my 28' Classic without installing a new coupler. I have a couple of options: Replace my Atwood with another Atwood or Marvel, remove the Anderson and go back to my Blue Ox. I would not keep the Anderson and modify the hitch by drilling a hole in it and modify the paw shank as Howie suggested. If there is a failure, I don't want the coupler manufacture released from liability because I modified the product. I'm not sure Andersen will refund my money and its past the 30 days to contest the credit card charge.

I like everything about the Andersen and hate everything about the Blue Ox, but if I install a QuickBite and have the problem of the clearance between the QB and Anderson, it has just cost me the cost of a QB and installation.

Question, if I purchase the QB and prior to installing it, put it on the Andersen 2 5/16 ball and check the clearance and it appears to be okay, how much will it move forward with the trailer attached?

If you hate the Blue Ox and recognize the advantages of the Andersen do not consider replacing you Atwood coupler with another Atwood. That will not solve the problem with the Shark Fin failures.

My posting of my experiment with placing a pin through the Atwood coupler was not intended to be a field modification by end users but rather a suggestion as to a solution that Andersen might consider as part of their installation.

"mrad" has stated he has seen a 1/2 displacement when using the Andersen but has not posted any pictures to support that. Since we are dealing with STEEL on STEEL between the ball and the jaws of the QB coupler that has a clearance measured in thousands when coupled I really have to question his comment.

Yes the clearance between the QB and Andersen is small and yes you might see contact if you have a combination of pieces both manufactured to larger limit of the tolerances. That contact conflict could be removed with slight grinding at the contact point.

You can see the clearance on my rig in the picture posted at #1474

[Rendrag]

A For What it's Worth bit of information. When I called the factory to see if I needed theRetaining Collar (for towing without weight distribution), they verified that the latest design has a retaining clip installed which will keep the ball from coming out. One less thing to worry about or keep track of.

[floridalarry]

I spoke with Andersen yesterday and they suggested that I use the Atwood 8191 coupler []Trailer Coupler, 2-5/16" Ball, A-Frame Tongue (10,000 lbs) Atwood Trailer Coupler 81911 since this is the one they use on all their demo trailers and it works perfect. Regrettably, there is no repair kit available for it like the Atwood I currently have on my 2002. Of course the one I have now is missing the front of the fin and won't hold the ball with the Andersen, but it can't be fixed. I guess my options have been reduced . . . go with the Atwood 8191 and try the Andersen. It that doesn't work, take off the Andersen and go back to the traditional WD hitch. A very expensive lesson so far!

[msmcv51]

I had the same question about clearance between the Andersen and the Quickbite.When I called Dave Andersen at Andersen he told me that I could remove enough of the aluminiam on the hitch ball holder to allow for the jaws to close. I have not removed any of the ball holder and the combination is working fine

[TG Twinkie]

Being a current owner and user of the Andersen Hitch. I think Andersen should make another design change to correct the clearance problem.
The Marvel coupler on my Argosy is rated at 20,000 pounds. Don't know why you can't buy one today with that rating today.
I hope Andersen is reading this and other threads. Good place to get customer feedback.
I never did get a response from them when I used the "Contact Us" on their web site.
I certainly hope this "retainer" ring modification is designed to withstand the upward forces and prevent the ball from raising up out of the tapered socket. Personally, I feel better with the existing collar and pin when compared to a snap ring or other retaining device.
I have not seen any parts available for the Andersen hitch. Such as a replacement for the brake material used in the anti sway device. Has anyone heard if spare parts are part of the plan?

[AWCHIEF]

They can supply any parts that are needed. I asked them about this when I bought my hitch.

[afneill]

As reported on an earlier post, after changing to an Andersen hitch I observed abnormal wear on the sharks fin on my 88007 Atwood coupler. To try to prevent the catch on the fin from being sheared off eventually, I continued the weld on the fin from where the original weld stopped to the end of the catch. Now the latch is not only working against the fin but the body of the coupler where the fin is welded to it. As Howie noted, this will probably transfer the wear to the latch and pins that hold it. However, all those parts are replaceable in the repair kit. In a couple of weeks I have a trip planned that will allow me to have some indication how this solution is faring. At least it may provide me a temporary fix until Andersen provides a permanent solution.

[HowieE]

Originally Posted by floridalarry

I spoke with Andersen yesterday and they suggested that I use the Atwood 8191 coupler []Trailer Coupler, 2-5/16" Ball, A-Frame Tongue (10,000 lbs) Atwood Trailer Coupler 81911 since this is the one they use on all their demo trailers and it works perfect.

Aah! A new fly in the ointment.

I had completely forgotten about this type of latch on a coupler. Considering the minimal cost of this coupling compared to a QB one would have to give it some thought.

My question at this point is if anyone has one could you give some details as to how the rearward force of the ball might be supported by this system.

I am somewhat disappointed at Andersen for not pointing out this option or the fact that they had used it in their testing. Certainly they have long been aware of this tread and the questions from several of us posting here. They clearly have adopted changes in their hitch that have been noted here as a result of our experiences. Why then have they not been forthcoming with information they have that would resolve other questions?

[afneill]

I got a reply from Andersen a couple of weeks ago concerning the communication I sent about excessive wear on my Atwood 88007 coupler. It said they would have a solution by the end of the week. I guess they just didn't say WHICH week!