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aaryno · 03-02-2021, 12:26 PM

I'm really confused. I am under the impression that I should be towing with a sway control kit and a weight distribution hitch but when I look at the products associated with either the SC or the WD, they both come with a ball. How can they be compatible? I have also read that some of the systems are both. I'm pretty confused right now.

Some of the things I've been looking at:

Curt 17500
Curt Round Bar
Equalizer 4-p[oint Sway Control Hitch
Reese Weight Distribution Hitch

And if I google Sway Control Bar, the Reese Weight Distribution "System" is what comes up first.

Appreciate any guidance here. I'll be hauling a 72 Sovereign with a 13 Tundra (another topic, I know, but we are well within bounds for now on rear axel towing with no payload and an empty trailer)

n2916s · 03-02-2021, 01:00 PM

Reese is simply one of the more common systems. The companies been in business for a long time and have several different products that approach weight control and anti-sway in slightly different ways.

Others include Curt,Blue Ox and Anderson.

Most use a combination of leverage utilizing steel bars of some type to return some of the tongue weight from the trailer back to the front axle of your tow vehicle and back to the axles on the trailer. They are always coupled with a friction device to dampen sway should it occur

At the top of the heap, are the pivot projection products such as the Hensley and ProPride. These devices essentially eliminate the possibility of sway and incorporate weight distribution in their design. The downside to these highly effective devices is that they are expensive and they are heavy.

E Trailer.com has videos that show how each of the systems they sell work. A good starting point would be to watch them.

aaryno · 03-02-2021, 01:32 PM

Thanks, n2916s. Watched some videos and talked to someone and I am less confused now. I'll try to clarify my a-ha moment in case someone has read this far and still doesn't get it. For my purposes, I'm not up for a ProPride or Hensley for both the cost and the weight. Right now I'm near max capacity on the Tundra. So say I'm the cheaper-is-better camp and from what I've read I'm going to be in for maybe $400 on the two items together.

So to clarify the crux of my first misunderstanding. The sway bar is a piece that can be installed on just ONE side of the hitch. I had read about so many people here in airforums using the Equalizer as a sway control device that I thought that was what the sway bar looked like.

It attaches to a SECOND ball on the side of the weight distribution hitch. That was one of my biggest confusions. I didn't realize your main hitch can have a side ball. Silly me. See the photo below shows the main ball and the sideball on the same hitch. And the rest is a little more straightforward about how it attached to the hitch side. I can get a sway control bar for about $60.

Anyway, I think I am set for now. I'll get something like this, which looks like it has the sway bar included:

- Curt Round Bar Weight Distribution Complete Kit 10,000/1000 Gtw/tw (1 Min) - $350

to be more clear, this is JUST the sway bar, sold separately:
- Curt Sway Control Kit - $60

And here is just the weight distribution hitch separately:
- Curt MV Round Bar Weight Distribution Hitch $260

n2916s · 03-02-2021, 03:00 PM

I used a very similar setup (from Reese) to tow my 1986 Sovereign 31’ over some 80,000 miles with a 2004 Nissan Titan (similar size to your Tundra). It worked fine, I did go through two of the actual slides (the friction pads wear with use). I always removed the friction bar before backing the trailer into a site (some say you don’t need to but I always did).

If you do the install yourself, follow the directions carefully when you are setting it up. I would strongly recommend a pass or three through a vehicle scale (CAT scale) to ensure that you have achieved the weight distribution you need.

I currently use a Reese dual cam as it came with my 2008 Safari. I like it better — hooking up with the trailer jack is easy, the anti-sway is more effective and you can back up without changing anything.

AlbertF · 03-02-2021, 10:01 PM

Two comments:

1. There’s also Eaz-Lift, which I believe was the original weight distributing hitch.
2. You can also use 2 friction sway controls. They come in right and left hand versions (at least with Eaz-Lift) or you can just pull the bar out and insert it upside down to use on the left side. A second sway control is actually recommended for trailers over 25 or 26 feet.

uncle_bob · 03-03-2021, 09:05 AM

Hi

I think if you take a poll, you will find that pretty much everybody these days uses a single hitch system that supplies *both* weight distribution *and* sway control at the same time. They do not pick one independent of the other. You get them all in the same "device".

Bob

awkirch · 03-03-2021, 09:20 AM

We’ve been using the Reese dual cam wt.dist/sway control system for several years and are very happy with it. Midway in the price range, easy to install and very simple to use. We pull our 25FB Safari with a 1500 series Suburban with the standard 5.3L V8

MickeyC · 03-03-2021, 09:32 AM

I used the Equal-i-zer for a short while and it worked excellent. I don't use anything now. I went with airbags my TV handles the trailer just fine without any assistance. But, in your circumstance i would use the equal-i-zer setup.

JMynes · 03-03-2021, 09:37 AM

I like my Equal-I-Zer.
Weight distribution and sway control all in one. Hitching and un hitching are so easy even I can do it.

JCWDCW · 03-03-2021, 09:39 AM

lI have pulled both my 25ft AS with a standard Easy-Lift hitch and one friction sway bar for the past 18 years behind an 03 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab...by most opinions not enough tow vehicle; Andy said otherwise!
My lady friend is not comfortable with just one friction bar so I will be adding a second this year, on a new to me tow vehicle.
It comes down to what you want to buy. Combination or Friction anti-sway.

My information is that Can Am always set up new sales with the Easy lift and two friction anti sway bars. I did have a Hensley on my '96 but when it failed I went to Can Am and they recommended the Easy-lift (with two husky anti-sway bars)
JCW

drbrick · 03-03-2021, 09:42 AM

Some people like po/ta/toes, some people like po/tha/toes - some people think the most expensive is the best way to go. The bottom line is you will need one with that rig or you will find the tail waging the dog - IMHO it's a personal choice what you choose.

We use the Reese Dual Cam System with our 2004 International 25 and 2013 F-150. It's a great system, never had any problems, would buy it again in a heart beat.

gypsydad · 03-03-2021, 10:10 AM

Everyone here has an "opinion" on the WDH with SC...we have used Reese, Equalizer, and now on our 3rd Blue Ox Sway Pro on our 4th AS...(the Equalizer sway bar broke while backing up, which led to our first Blue Ox on AS #2.) I would not use a friction sway bar on an AS...I would get an integrated system as many have also mentioned above. Also consider $$ invested. The ProPrid and Hensley are pretty costly, but very good systems; many folks here use them also. The others mentioned, are also decent and provide good control/weight distribution in most cases, once you understand how to set them up and connect properly. (watch their Youtube videos from mfg. and see the proper safety value and proper set up recommendation You already recognize your Tundra may be at it's limits if you carry any additional gear as payload, so you likely understand the important stuff.

ROBERT CROSS · 03-03-2021, 10:26 AM

If the 'too heavy & expensive PPP's' are not being seriously considered, I would go for any WD Sway combination that has TAPERED,(blue ox), square WD bars rated for the weight that needs to be moved, not just tongue weight.

Proper loading for the Airstream and tow vehicle, a level rig, both AS and TV, are just as, if not more important than what specific brand WD hitch is used.

Bob
🇺🇸

Daquenzer · 03-03-2021, 10:44 AM

I have a friend that used the Curt with his 30' SOB. Didn't work for him very well. He tried my old Blue Ox. Didn't work very well. Finally bit the bullet and bought a Propride.

Once you tow with a Propride you will see that although they are expensive they are a really nice set up.

But to each their own. I think that if I didn't have a Propride, I would try the Reese Dual Cam as my second choice.

Personally with a 1/2 ton Tundra I would go with the Propride.

David57 · 03-03-2021, 11:30 AM

I used a Blue Ox with my 25', 2001 Safari and it worked great. I have also used a Hensley on my 31' Classic, and while many people love it, it was not for me. I had it removed. My new replacement is a Reese Dual-Cam. Most of the brands work very well. Safe travels!

guskmg · 03-03-2021, 04:35 PM

Most friction sway controls need to be loosened when towing in slick road conditions (just when you need it the most) or "the tail will wag the dog." The only hitches that does not apply to are Hensley and ProPride. That is because of the trapezazoid design. That is why they are heavier and cost more. The friction sway control devices correct sway where as trapezoid hitches prevent sway. Cheap as in parachutes and insurance?

tjdonahoe · 03-03-2021, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaryno

I'm really confused. I am under the impression that I should be towing with a sway control kit and a weight distribution hitch but when I look at the products associated with either the SC or the WD, they both come with a ball. How can they be compatible? I have also read that some of the systems are both. I'm pretty confused right now.

Some of the things I've been looking at:

Curt 17500
Curt Round Bar
Equalizer 4-p[oint Sway Control Hitch
Reese Weight Distribution Hitch

And if I google Sway Control Bar, the Reese Weight Distribution "System" is what comes up first.

Appreciate any guidance here. I'll be hauling a 72 Sovereign with a 13 Tundra (another topic, I know, but we are well within bounds for now on rear axel towing with no payload and an empty trailer)

We like our Reese duel cam is excellent

vwii · 03-03-2021, 08:47 PM

We are using a Husky weight distribution hitch and towing is a breeze. PITA to hook up and unhitch (lots of raising the tongue jack up and down) but very good price point (and I don't think any of them are any easier to hook up or un hook).

aaryno · 03-05-2021, 10:31 PM

i understand that i should remove the sway bar when backing up (using a one/sided curt sway bar like above). what about an equalizer? does it limit mobility in tight turns or when maneuvering in a camp spot?

AlbertF · 03-06-2021, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aaryno

i understand that i should remove the sway bar when backing up (using a one/sided curt sway bar like above). what about an equalizer? does it limit mobility in tight turns or when maneuvering in a camp spot?

I think the main reason to remove the bar is that you can damage it in a tight turn while reversing. Loosening or removing it also seems to make maneuvering a bit easier. For me, it depends. If I’m backing into an angled RV site and I don’t need to steer too much, I leave it alone.

I don’t think there’s any such issue with an Equal-i-zer brand hitch.