Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-11-2020, 12:31 PM   #1
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar
 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 10,608
Images: 5
Suggestions for stinger top coat

What would you all suggest for a top coat for my stinger which has been stripped, prepped and painted with Por 15?Click image for larger version

Name:	20200411_132811.jpeg
Views:	21
Size:	93.1 KB
ID:	365481
__________________

__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2020, 03:24 PM   #2
2 Rivet Member
 
Downhill502's Avatar
 
2020 27' Globetrotter
Fredericksburg , VA
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 67
Por-15 makes their own topcoat but what you have will harden quit nicely without anything additional.
__________________

Downhill502 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2020, 03:26 PM   #3
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar
 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 10,608
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Downhill502 View Post
Por-15 makes their own topcoat but what you have will harden quit nicely without anything additional.
My understanding is por15 is UV sensitive and will degrade without a topcoat.
I didn't use a topcoat when I coated the inside of my bumper drawer and am very happy with the durability of the coating. But it isn't in the sun.
Has anyone painted with por15 on an item which receives a lot of sunlight? Feedback?
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2020, 04:13 PM   #4
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawus"
 
ROBERT CROSS's Avatar

 
2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , Milky Way
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 15,221
Images: 1
[QUOTE=dznf0g;2350032]My understanding is por15 is UV sensitive and will degrade without a topcoat.
I didn't use a topcoat when I coated the inside of my bumper drawer and am very happy with the durability of the coating. But it isn't in the sun.
Has anyone painted with por15 on an item which receives a lot of sunlight? Feedback?

I'm cheep...plain old brush-on flat enamel.🤓
The brush marks add character.
I figger, rusting to nothing is unlikely, and as long as it's black it's GTG.

Bob
🇺🇸
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	fullsizeoutput_26f9.jpg
Views:	14
Size:	393.2 KB
ID:	365515  
__________________
"Any nation that can survive what we have lately in the way of government, is on the high road to permanent glory."
Molly Ivins

"My sex life is like a Ferrari...I don't have a Ferrari."
Dino Longuini

Tahawus....🌥
ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2020, 04:57 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar
 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 10,608
Images: 5
I agree, Bob, after the first redo. I have yet to own a hitch which had quality paint at time of manufacture. Sandblasted my Hensley and painted with a 2 part urethane plus clearcoat about 8 years ago. Still looks great, with just artist brush touchup when I chip it.
Do it once and do it right. Same with this propride stinger-for-Hensley that Sean made.
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2020, 07:34 PM   #6
4 Rivet Member
 
57Vintage's Avatar

 
1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 444
Images: 21
I made the mistake of not top coating the tongue when the frame was first painted. By end of summer I could see the paint was beginning to dull. Use their top coat. You can buy it in aerosol can.
__________________
Harold & Rebecca

Our thread:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f97...er-172124.html
57Vintage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2020, 07:50 PM   #7
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar
 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 10,608
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by 57Vintage View Post
I made the mistake of not top coating the tongue when the frame was first painted. By end of summer I could see the paint was beginning to dull. Use their top coat. You can buy it in aerosol can.
I went ahead and used some Centari automotive enamel I had left over from another project. We'll see how it holds up.
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2020, 10:45 AM   #8
4 Rivet Member
 
2016 30' Classic
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 307
If I use the POR-15 product set (cleaner, metal prep, paint and clear coat) on my ProPride hitch / stinger, do need to sandblast first?
dhroberts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2020, 10:56 AM   #9
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar
 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 10,608
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhroberts View Post
If I use the POR-15 product set (cleaner, metal prep, paint and clear coat) on my ProPride hitch / stinger, do need to sandblast first?
Strip or sandblast. POR is short for paint over rust. It likes rough pitted surfaces, although the metal prep does a good job of etching. It doesnt like prior paint surface.
I would strip, and any surfaces that are baby butt smooth, rough up a bit with wire brush and/or sandpaper. Then clean and metal prep.
I did that with my galvanized bumper drawer. Some of it was rusted and pitted and some was fresh galvanized, which is difficult for coatings to stick to. Roughing it then using the cleaner and prep worked really well.
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2020, 02:23 PM   #10
Tom T
 
Tom_T's Avatar
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Vintage Kin Owner
Orange , California
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 724
If you don't have access to media blasting, then Evapo-Rust works as well or better.

https://evapo-rust.com/

It's water soluable & environmentally safe.

Small to medium sized parts can be immersed in a plastic tub filled to top the item(s), while large parts will need to be covered with Evapo-Rust soaked rags which you'll need to keep wet for the soak/rust-removal time (or use their gel with wet rags over to prevent evaporation, per their instructions).

You may need to file/grind/sand the rust removed surface afterwards, because it literally eats the rust out of the metal, leaving voids.

After removal you'll have a fresh rust-free surface, so no need for POR-15, because you're no longer "painting over rust".

So you can refinish with standard paints & primers of your choice, or powder coat (though probably not PC for the stinger due to the abuse it gets).

I've used Evapo-Rust on numerous auto resto parts to get to a rust free part, then I'll refinish it in paint or PC. For primer I'd suggest either a zinc rich "weld through" primer for it's rust prevention (zinc is sacrificial to prevent rust, just like zinc plated metal & the modern hot-dipped car bodies), or else a 2 part epoxy primer to seal our the moisture, with a top coat of epoxy paint - unless PP or H has a better option as below.

I don't think that the urethane paints will have the durability for stinger use, especially with the modern formulations taking out most of the chemicals which made the original stuff so durable (same for urethane varnish) - & the solvent/oil based urethane paints/varnishes will still be more durable than the new water based ones. I say this with some technical knowledge from my Petro-Chemist Dad, who had invented urethane varnishes & paints while at Koppers in the late 1950's - early 1960s.

I'd check with Shaun at ProPride or Terry P. at Hensley for what paints they use/recco.

Alternatively - if you're work averse , then I think that PP & H do the Lifetime warranty stinger exchange for you, but you may have to pay the shipping if it's not otherwise damaged. You've got time now with all the shut-downs to send it out & get back in time for whenever things open up again for travel & camping.

Also - a tip that Terry at Hensley gave me was to spray both ends of the stinger where they insert into the receiver & head with WD-40, both to prevent rust where they constantly rub, & to lubricate it some so that you don't get binding & banging when released (it may also be in the Hensley manual). The WD-40 will also inhibit the rust too, so give it a spray & wipe with WD-40 when storing after the trip.

Cheers!
Tom
///////
__________________
Tom T
Orange CA
1960 Avion T20, #2 made, Hensley Cub, TV tbd- looking for 08-14 Cayenne S
1988 VW Vanagon Westfalia CamperGL (Orig Owner) + 1970 Eriba Puck
Tom_T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2020, 03:50 PM   #11
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar
 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 10,608
Images: 5
All I can say is the 2 part urethane I used 8 years ago has held up well. It was clear coated as well.
I coat my stinger with mountain bike chain lube. It dries to a paraffin-like coating
That does not attract dirt. I gave up on all wet lubes. Way too dirty.
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2020, 03:51 PM   #12
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar
 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 10,608
Images: 5
This is one example. Great for the door hinges as well. Click image for larger version

Name:	20200412_165046.jpeg
Views:	20
Size:	66.1 KB
ID:	365616

Also really good for padlocks. Repels water.
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2020, 04:04 PM   #13
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar
 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 10,608
Images: 5
This is what it looks like today. And it hasn't had its spring clean and servicing yet. Click image for larger version

Name:	20200412_170252.jpeg
Views:	15
Size:	113.1 KB
ID:	365619
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2020, 06:59 AM   #14
1 Rivet Member
 
Minocqua , Wisconsin
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 16
Does the White lightening work ok for high temp friction and allow it to be used on the hitch ball head as well?
lovemorels is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2020, 07:30 AM   #15
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar
 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 10,608
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovemorels View Post
Does the White lightening work ok for high temp friction and allow it to be used on the hitch ball head as well?
Hmm, never tried, but I doubt it. Its designed for bicycle chains....not even motorcycle chains, so that implies a relatively low torque application, translating to relatively low pressure and friction heat generation.
It wouldn't hurt to try it for a days towing, but I would think it probably wouldn't perform well.
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2020, 01:19 PM   #16
Tom T
 
Tom_T's Avatar
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Vintage Kin Owner
Orange , California
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 724
Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
All I can say is the 2 part urethane I used 8 years ago has held up well. It was clear coated as well.
I coat my stinger with mountain bike chain lube. It dries to a paraffin-like coating
That does not attract dirt. I gave up on all wet lubes. Way too dirty.
Rich -

Your hitch looks nice! Is that PP or Hensley?

That "2 Part" above is the key to yours' durability for 8 years - Base + Hardener - so it's more like an epoxy paint, & may actually be considered an epoxy type of paint. Thar was the point I was trying to make for a durable paint in the hitch/stinger application.

To clarify - I was talking about the 1 part brush-on cans & rattle-can spray on urethane paints & varnishes not being as durable as a 2 part product.

Personally I don't mind the WD-40 wet film (I wipe off the excess after a minute +/- after spraying), but your bike grease seems like another good alternative.

Cheers!
Tom
///////
__________________
Tom T
Orange CA
1960 Avion T20, #2 made, Hensley Cub, TV tbd- looking for 08-14 Cayenne S
1988 VW Vanagon Westfalia CamperGL (Orig Owner) + 1970 Eriba Puck
Tom_T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2020, 06:29 PM   #17
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar
 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 10,608
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom_T View Post
Rich -

Your hitch looks nice! Is that PP or Hensley?

That "2 Part" above is the key to yours' durability for 8 years - Base + Hardener - so it's more like an epoxy paint, & may actually be considered an epoxy type of paint. Thar was the point I was trying to make for a durable paint in the hitch/stinger application.

To clarify - I was talking about the 1 part brush-on cans & rattle-can spray on urethane paints & varnishes not being as durable as a 2 part product.

Personally I don't mind the WD-40 wet film (I wipe off the excess after a minute +/- after spraying), but your bike grease seems like another good alternative.

Cheers!
Tom
///////
It's an early Hensley....like 1999. I bought used with little miles and wear. Serial number sticker was gone so I couldn't transfer warranty, but they did identify it by the ball. Early ones had the (i forget the name) removable ball so one could exchange the ball on the welded on post. It had sat out and looked terrible.
__________________
-Rich-

"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
dznf0g is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2020, 06:02 AM   #18
2 Rivet Member
 
mikesSE's Avatar
 
2007 23' Safari SE
ROSWELL , Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 99
Images: 14
Paint the hitch a bright color. It’s easier to see what happened when you hit your shin on it!
__________________

__________________
Mike & Nancy Gore WBCCI #2914 S E Camping Unit 012 Roswell,Ga.
mikesSE is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Powder coat or Ceramic Coat for Old Stove? joeyoc Stoves, Ovens & Microwaves 10 09-11-2019 05:50 PM
Protecting Plasti-coat / Clear coat John&Vicki Exterior Restoration Forum 5 07-30-2019 07:37 PM
remove clear coat and re coat one panel at a time. Bill M. Clearcoat, Exterior Paint & Trim 7 08-01-2016 02:37 PM
My Hensley 6" Stinger for 4" Stinger bcrkymtn Airstream Classifieds 0 10-09-2015 01:54 PM
clear coat or plastic coat fpoulson Cleaning, Stripping & Polishing 1 10-26-2014 12:42 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:44 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.