Spot Welds on a Hitch Shank to Remove Play

[Larry C]

So far, I've bought two of those clamps, and neither of them work for any longer than it takes to turn the first corner, then, either the side force, or the vertical force, moves the tow bar and loosens the whole thing again.
I've had enough of this, Wednesday, I'm taking it to a machinist friend who will build up the tow bar, on one side, and the top, then machine it down to give a precision fit. We're shooting for about .010 clearance, on the top and sides. At the same time, he's going to build up the hitch pin holes, and redrill them to the proper size to accept the 5/8" htch pin.
This should take care of the sloppy fit....

For whatever it's worth.

Larry

[MelGoddard]

Larry;
Just use a couple of shims like I did. I measured .064" between shank and receiver, and made two .060" shims, one drilled 5/8"for the pin. One end is bent over 90 deg. to prevent it being 'swallowed' and for easy removal.
I still have .004"clearance, which gives a modicum of play, and I grease the shank when I install it. No rattle, no play, and it comes out easily.

[Larry C]

After getting further into this sloppy factory hitch, I found that I had (when measured at the top of the ball), 1 3/4" of slop on the vertical (pitch axis), on the side to side (yaw) axis, there was 1". I found that there was evough slop in this lashup that the tow bar was actually pivoting in the 5/8" hitch pin.....not good, in my opinion.
So instead of trying to weld, shim, etc., I bought a new Curt, Class 5 reciever, and installed it today. I did have to change the height of the ball mount to mate up with the 19" or so tongue height, but not a big problem..

The important thing to me at least was, I down have 3/4" vertical movement, and 5/8" side to side.....

I think I'm happy......we'll know next week, when we leave for a 3 month trip to Indiana, the to Las Vegas. Here's a coulple pics of the new hitch.

Larry

Originally Posted by MelGoddard

Larry;
Just use a couple of shims like I did. I measured .064" between shank and receiver, and made two .060" shims, one drilled 5/8"for the pin. One end is bent over 90 deg. to prevent it being 'swallowed' and for easy removal.
I still have .004"clearance, which gives a modicum of play, and I grease the shank when I install it. No rattle, no play, and it comes out easily.

[SteveSueMac]

I can't tell from the pics but was your factory hitch a 2.5" and your replacement a 2"?

[m.hony]

Stop the slop and she tows a lot nicer with a lot less noise. No more elongated pin hole.


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[No. 13]

A few months ago m.hony recommended the clamps that he posted with a few pictures. These things work awesome. If you get the same clamps you will not have a problem they work great. You have to turn them upside down so you're tightening from the top.

[cwf]

The receiver square hole was "wallowed out"!!!! That allowed the hitch bar to move.... A lot!!!

[Larry C]

I tried two different clamps, I clamped them from the side, and I clamped them from the top. Both of them were just fine, until, I either applied the brakes, or made a turn.....I may not be a rocket scientist, but I am fairly congnicent of how things work...

For what every it's worth.

Larry

Originally Posted by No. 13

A few months ago m.hony recommended the clamps that he posted with a few pictures. These things work awesome. If you get the same clamps you will not have a problem they work great. You have to turn them upside down so you're tightening from the top.

[Larry C]

You are exactly right! Actually, the elongated hole was caused by a hitch reciever that was "out of specs". It allowed the tow bar to "pivot", on the hitch pin, and over 107,000 miles enlarged both ends of the reciever. Due to the nature of the pivot point, the hole continually got more and more elongated....
I think the problem is solved, finally.

Larry

Originally Posted by m.hony

Stop the slop and she tows a lot nicer with a lot less noise. No more elongated pin hole.


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[Larry C]

Both hitch recievers are 2". The new Curt hitch is a class 5, the Dodge factory hitch is considered a class 3/4. There really isn't much comparison as to the quality and construction between the two..
If and when I order a new truck, I'll order it without the hitch, and install the class 5 myself.

Larry

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

I can't tell from the pics but was your factory hitch a 2.5" and your replacement a 2"?

[m.hony]

I had to re-tighten the anti- rattle device several times. It kinda sorta bent and settled to conform to the shape of the hitch receiver, shank, and Rocks Tamers mounting brackets gradually. After a while, it stayed tight.


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[mefly2]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

I have a 2010 Tundra and the receiver tends to be slightly larger than the Equalizer head shank. Is it possible to have some spot welds put on the hitch shank as shims to remove the play? I have a grinder at home that I could use to grind away the spot welds to customize the fit.

I know there is a bolt on device to remove the play but you have to unbolt it every time you want to remove the head. That doesn't sound too convenient.

Kelvin

Yes, worked well on the 2" shank for the 1/2 ton and additionally spotted the adapter for the 3/4 T. I finished the fitting with a file rather than a grinder ... too easy to remove too much material and then it needs to be re-spotted.

[Tater]

I joined the take out the slop group sort of. I mad to shims for my 3/4 ton. One for the reduction insert and one for the Hensley stinger.

[Larry C]

One last hitch update, hopefully, the problem is resolved.
After installing the Curt Class 5 receiver, I took the AirSafe towbar to my welder/machinist buddy. He welded the elongated holes shut in the towbar in the tow bar. Then drilled a new hole in the tow bar (21/32, I think), then we reinstalled the AirSafe.

What a difference! I now have about 1/4" play side to side, and vertically! I have to tap the hitch pin to get it through the new holes. I think this will loosen a bit after a few hundred miles of towing...I don't need a clamp, and I really feel good about this change.

For whatever it's worth.

Larry

[m.hony]

That 1/4" will be 3/8"...


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[Larry C]

I would be surprised if it wasn't. But that's a lot better than 1" horizontal and 1 3/4 vertical
Larry

Originally Posted by m.hony

That 1/4" will be
3/8"...


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[remphoto]

I have been using the stowaway clamp and it does the job -- no slop and no noise. It does require carrying a ratchet as it has to be loosened to remove the hitch bar from the receiver -- takes about 60 seconds to do.



Amazon.com: StowAway Hitch Tightener: Automotive

[KJRitchie]

Do you have to torque these down to a specified amount or do you just crank on it with a 3/8" ratchet?

Kelvin

[ROBERT CROSS]

Kelvin,

I use a Box wench...I do very snug. Only used on the boat stinger so it comes on and off a lot. Most important is to alternate and tighten equally.

POI...notice it's up-side-down, with a heavy tongue weight, as in AS, I think it would be better to use it as designed. That way the U-bolt would not be supporting the TW and under much less stress.

Bob

[m.hony]

Mine is upside down because of how the Rock Tamers are mounted. I could move the Rock Tamers mount, but I haven't so far.


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