Shank length/ball distance from TV

[rmkrum]

Consider looking into the TRD anti-roll bar upgrade for the rear of your Tundra if it does not have one. It can help with the handling.

[Profxd]

I reduced the length my Equalizer shank by 2 inches by drilling a new hole. The distance from bumper to the ball reduced to 9 inches from 11. Inserting it further in the receiver greatly reduced the vertical play.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by cazual6

Funny, I want to do the opposite. I want to extend mine so that I can open the tailgate. I have 2018 FC25RT.

I know this might be out of topic, but what is the draw back? My TV is typically F250 or RAM2500 (long, mid and short beds), why so many? I rent my TV.

Hi

The drawback with a conventional hitch is that you increase the "leverage" of the trailer on the truck. If the hitch was at the axle, you would have zero leverage. Every inch you move it back increases the amount of force the trailer can exert to "point" the truck off course.

Why does this matter?

One of several issues you can have with a trailer is "sway". It's a build up of oscillation in the system that shoves the rig left / right to increasing degrees as the process builds up. If it's not stopped, the result is loss of control. More leverage = greater tendency to sway.

Bob

[JCWDCW]

Can Am always recommends the shortest possible shank length; and tilt he ball backwards about 7 degrees...that apparently helps with sway.

JCW

[rmkrum]

Yes, exactly what a shorter shank does. Reduces the force the trailer can apply to the tow vehicle. Shorter lever arm behind the rear axle.

[pteck]

Picture time:


I did exactly this. Brought my ball in closer just under 3". I didn't have any handling issues, but as every optimization brings more margin of stability, it was worth the effort. Between this and my Load Range E tires, I feel absolutely no push or pulling from passing rigs. Even with my longer 27FB trailer that has a lift. I run a Equalizer WD hitch btw. My vehicle also has a tailgate but it's completely above the hitch assembly so I don't have clearance issues.

3" may sound like small potatoes but consider this. We often talk about wheelbase. Longer is better right? Well, it's really about the wheelbase vs rear overhang ratio. On my vehicle (LX570 aka Land Cruiser), the rear overhang is roughly 1/2 the distance of my wheelbase, or about 2:1. My wheelbase is rather short at 112.3". Taking 3" off the rear overhang, effectively feels like a 6" longer wheelbase because of that ratio. Not that unsubstantial any longer!

Cutting was slow on my small harbor freight band saw taking over 30 minutes with a worn cutter. If you don't need to cut and only drill, drilling is cake with a fresh 5/8" titanium bit with even the smallest press. Just use low speed and some WD40. It cuts like butter. You'll want to make sure it's absolutely square and center.

If you can bring it in closer than the gusset, you can absolutely grind (angle grinder) the gusset for more clearance. You'll notice I did for an additional .5" in the picture above. Just make sure you shape a small fillet into the transition so there's no sharp corner that could become a stress riser.

Don't mind the handle. It always remains on and is my cheater handle. I also like to route my umbilical and emergency brake wires through the handle as wiring management.

[Mollysdad]

I hope pcskier reports back when the next trip happens.
Here is real world experience with the same TV, same trailer and a shorter shank.
Can you tell a difference?
It all looks good on paper, as they say, so how is the real world?
I might go the other way and find a new shank 3" longer!

[Motoman]

There is one thing else you might try before you drill the shank although it works with a shorter shank also. Check how much drop you get on both the front and rear of the Toyota between unloaded and then with the trailer connected. if possible you want the front end to drop equal with the back. It's not always possible, sometimes you have to live with half the drop at the front compared with the back. Getting more weight transferred to the front can minimize the wiggle when truck passes.

[beetlebob]

Well all I can say from experience and seeing several others is that with the trailer closer to the TV is that it’s easier to hit the trailer in hard backing up. I have the right size truck and hitch and I moved mine 5 inches away from the bumper with no ill effects. This is what I have experienced in the real world of fulltime living in my Airstream. This will not work for everyone so for the squirrel out there that want to bash what I typed please read what I wrote

[Bill M.]

I pull a 25, with a 2500. What I found that affected the sway from passing trucks is the amount of weight transfer. If I run 5 links down I am close to full restoration weight on front axle and am very stable. If I Run 4 links down for more weight transfer it makes trucks have a very noticeable effect on the rig.

I am sure that shortening the shank will help but you might try a couple of easy checks with different weight transfer to see if that is a factor for you.

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by beetlebob

Well all I can say from experience and seeing several others is that with the trailer closer to the TV is that it’s easier to hit the trailer in hard backing up. I have the right size truck and hitch and I moved mine 5 inches away from the bumper with no ill effects. This is what I have experienced in the real world of fulltime living in my Airstream. This will not work for everyone so for the squirrel out there that want to bash what I typed please read what I wrote

Please tell the folks what your TV is too.

[A W Warn]

There is another advantage to shortening the shank, additional vertical load capacity because there is less leverage arm length.
I have a Reese shank that came with two holes in the horizontal part, with about 1" between the holes. The closer hole to the ball is rated 1,200 lbs, the further 1,000 lbs.

[BuckRivetted]

I measure 12” from the face of my receiver/bumper to the center of the ball. My hitch is a Blue Ox, and I experience no suck or sway. I have a non WD setup for my work trailers which measures 7”. I have considered the same modification on the Ox, but I can only move it 1-1/2” due to the massive gusset underneath. My truck is lifted 4”, thus the longer drop shank with the gusset.

[pteck]

It's funny we talk about shortening yet some want to lengthen. This is really one of those critical geometries to optimize. It has an effect on all dynamic traits. From WD, to sway, load carrying, etc. While straight ahead might feel stable, can u say your rig is stable under evasive maneuvers. Or high winds or other unforeseen situations. It's that critical.

My rig was stable prior. But as I lifted my trailer, I wanted to make sure I made another modification to offset any potential stability loss. My trailer is very "quiet" under tow with minimal secondary motions as that shorter shank minizes trailer leverage.

Highly encouraged in other words.

The gusset is only important if using the extreme ends of the stinger. Since one is bringing in the mounting point, the gusset can also be minimized.

For those that don't need to cut the stinger, can't hurt to drill another hole to just try. So long as the new hole is at least 1.5" away from the current hole.

[pcskier]

Thanks for all the great feedback. I when ahead and had a new hole drilled so I can slide the shank in 4" farther, and still open the tailgate. They also cut 1.5" off the end to make it fit (my receiver has a 'stop' welded to the back so the shank needed to be shorter.)

The place was a steel fabricator that does buildings, etc...but said they'd be happy to do it. It took about 4 minutes, I thought they were just going to say "don't worry about it" when I asked 'How much?", or maybe a twenty or something. So I asked "How Much" and their book keeper chimed up, 'I have an invoice for you.' Fifty bucks! Not saying I wouldn't have paid that had I known in advance, since they are just 2 minutes from my storage place, but I also might have stopped in at a couple of other machine shops instead. That seemed like a lot of money for drilling a hole and cutting off the end, taking less than 5 minutes.

Anyway, it's done. And the old hole is still there, with probably 1.5+ inches to the back of the shank, so I could still use it if I needed to (that should be enough material left to be secure?)

I haven't tried it out yet, I am going to load up with water etc and some weight in the truck bed and go to a flat parking lot to measure and re-do my WD bar settings since my understanding is that with a shorter shank, it takes less tension to move weight to the front axles. I'll report back in after I test it all out and see what differences I might notice.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by pcskier

Thanks for all the great feedback. I when ahead and had a new hole drilled so I can slide the shank in 4" farther, and still open the tailgate. They also cut 1.5" off the end to make it fit (my receiver has a 'stop' welded to the back so the shank needed to be shorter.)

The place was a steel fabricator that does buildings, etc...but said they'd be happy to do it. It took about 4 minutes, I thought they were just going to say "don't worry about it" when I asked 'How much?", or maybe a twenty or something. So I asked "How Much" and their book keeper chimed up, 'I have an invoice for you.' Fifty bucks! Not saying I wouldn't have paid that had I known in advance, since they are just 2 minutes from my storage place, but I also might have stopped in at a couple of other machine shops instead. That seemed like a lot of money for drilling a hole and cutting off the end, taking less than 5 minutes.

Anyway, it's done. And the old hole is still there, with probably 1.5+ inches to the back of the shank, so I could still use it if I needed to (that should be enough material left to be secure?)

I haven't tried it out yet, I am going to load up with water etc and some weight in the truck bed and go to a flat parking lot to measure and re-do my WD bar settings since my understanding is that with a shorter shank, it takes less tension to move weight to the front axles. I'll report back in after I test it all out and see what differences I might notice.

Hi

I'd bet their standard rate is up above $100 an hour. I know a number of outfits where the minimum charge is one hour for anything they do ....

Bob

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by pcskier

I when ahead and had a new hole drilled so I can slide the shank in 4" farther, and still open the tailgate. They also cut 1.5" off the end to make it fit (my receiver has a 'stop' welded to the back so the shank needed to be shorter.)

4" and you can still open the tailgate! Wow, that's almost unheard of.

...but said they'd be happy to do it. It took about 4 minutes, I thought they were just going to say "don't worry about it" when I asked 'How much?", or maybe a twenty or something. Fifty bucks! That seemed like a lot of money for drilling a hole and cutting off the end, taking less than 5 minutes.

That was $5 for the cut and $45 towards buying all the machines to cut it.

Anyway, it's done. And the old hole is still there, with probably 1.5+ inches to the back of the shank, so I could still use it if I needed to (that should be enough material left to be secure?)

Eh, it's not so much the hole tearing out, it's the leverage of that shank lifting the truck when the bars are tensioned. I'd leave it in the new hole or buy a second shank if you change back. Although if you shortened it and can still open the tailgate, I see no reason to change back.

I'll report back in after I test it all out and see what differences I might notice.

Please do!

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

4" and you can still open the tailgate! Wow, that's almost unheard of.

That's because I have a very long shank, almost 12 inches from receiver to ball. Plus maybe the gen 1 Tundra has a shorter tailgate I would guess? Anyway...will see how things feel on my next tow.

[TBDub]

I know this is an old thread, but I've got a question. I discussed moving my hitch forward on my T-Reg (currently 11" from bumper) with Andy at Can Am recently. He said I could have the shank drilled out, but also recommended switching out my 1,000# Equal-i-zer with a 800# Eaz-lift. In the end he said that if it has handled alright for the past two years I probably wouldn't notice much change.

Two questions. If I move it forward 3" do I need to adjust my my spring bar setup? Can't believe you can get that solid steel shank drilled out just anywhere?

TBDub

[BayouBiker]

You should take the shank to a machine shop to have it drilled or milled out. Not sure what it will cost, probably $50-100. Is A T-Reg one of those Diahatsu FourTracs? If so, moving it in 3 inches will improve stability in sway and cornering situations a fair amount so I would strongly consider it. If I don't have the vehicle right, maybe not so much. The Eaz-Lift is inexpensive and competent (it will perform similar to a Blue Ox at 1/3 the price), but there are better choices like the Reese models or equivalent. Again depending on the vehicle and trailer and if I have the vehicle right, I do agree the Equalizer is a poor choice.

So, if you'll offer a few more details I can help better. You have already talked to Andy and I have never disagreed with any technical issue with him so....