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Silvertwinkie · 06-23-2004, 10:49 PM

I too have had both. DualCam HP...no question about it...period!

As for price, if you are getting the new Reese weight bars, the cost is only $70-$80 more...that's right...ONLY $70-$80 more than the single friction bar. Reese friction cost me about $80 when we bought the '03 19' Bambi, while the DualCam HP, I picked up for $159 on line when we upgraded to the 25' Safari. I will say this, with the DualCam HP, I barely notice 18 wheelers blow by me. Once in a while I do, but compared to my old friction sway on the 19', it is far less of an issue since going dual cam.

I've said this on many other posts. Went to 3-4 hitch places...all of them said that up to 20' friction is good enough. Larger than 20', go dual cam.

My vote DualCam HP everyday of the week and twice on Sunday. You will be satisfied with it, no question.

donaldvanw · 06-24-2004, 06:15 AM

Here's another vote for friction bar sway control. Previously towed with Draw-Tite/Reese single cam and never felt comfortable. Switched to equalizer with dual friction bar set-up and the difference is night and day. Yes it costs more, but it was well worth the few $$ more for greatly enhanced towing. Besides it's easier on the hands because your knuckles don't turn white as you try to grip the steering wheel tighter.

**jcanavera** · 06-24-2004, 07:53 AM

Don,
As a differing opinion you could look into the Equal-i-zer as an alternative. I was a Reese dual cam user for 8 years and can't say a bad thing about that hitch. My upgrade to the much heavier Classic forced me to upgrade my entire hitch system.

I chose the Equal-i-zer mainly on positive reports from other former Reese owners and my dealer's experience with this hitch (he sells Reese also). Bottom line I have found it to be exceptional, providing rock solid stability in cross winds. What I really like is the fact that I no longer have to deal with the saddle and chain assembly of the Reese and I didn't have to deal with the old U clamp assembly which always seemed to be in the area of the gas bottle holders. The new dual cam eliminates that assembly but requires drilling through the side of the A frame to bolt an assembly in. The Equal-i-zer requires no drilling.

Jack

FireFighter · 06-24-2004, 08:33 AM

i currently have a friction sway control on my 31' and find my self stopping to adjust it at least twice per trip before it feels right, i also have a brand new Equal I zer on my 34' and it is rock solid, no chains to play with and works perfect. seems quieter than my old man's dual cam also.

dscluchfc · 06-24-2004, 08:50 AM

I have the dual cam. Dealers don't seem to like them because they are a pain to set the straight line on. Dealers want ease of installation and send you out the door having to deal with whatever shortcomings there may be in a friction bar hitch.
The dual cam, properly setup, is superior to the friction control bar.
The dual cam is pretty much self adjusting. It can be quieted down with alittle vaseline on the cams if the groaning bothers you.
There is no stopping 2-3 times pertrip to adjust the tension. There is no loosening it to back up.
There is a little more trouble in the install to get it set right. After that, there is no comparison, IMHO. The cams on mine were pretty worn when I bought my trailer. Last trip out, I broke one of the cam arms at some point turning a corner. It evidently got into a bind and snapped. I lost sway control on the street side as a result, but still had load equilization. No problem, I still had 1/2 the normal sway control on the curb side from the other cam/saddle set up functioning properly. So, I coathanger wired the cam bar up so that it would not pose a drag the pavement hazzard, and purchased two new cam arms when I got back home.
A friend of mine that has towed Airstreams with dual cam setups for 38 years said he has broken 2 cam arms in 38 years, and that it sometimes happens when they are about worn out. The ones on my trailer were 20 years old.
Replacements were $80 each due to the recent price increase of steel.
Installation was easy, and I look forward to my next trip.

**jcanavera** · 06-24-2004, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dscluchfc

I have the dual cam. Dealers don't seem to like them because they are a pain to set the straight line on.

I would probably agree with you. My local Airstream dealer has more experience with the Equal-i-zer brand and had not yet put on one of the new strait line dual cam hitches. With that in mind, I didn't want to be part of the learning curve, especially when you are drilling 2 holes in the "A" frame.

The older "U" bolt version of the dual-cam required movement of my gas bottle tray in my SOB. When I bought my Safari, proper mounting of the bolts required them to be under my gas bottles. I raised the bottles slightly to accomdate the bolts. I didn't want to deal with that on the new Classic.

As it ends up I have no regrets on my choice of an Equal-i-zer. My recommendation to others is that the dual-cam, equal-i-zer comparison is probably dead even. It really comes down to personal preferences and choosing either hitch will give you good sway control.

Jack

markparker22 · 06-24-2004, 11:56 AM

Last year I made a decision to go with a Pullrite hitch system. I just love that fact that anti-friction or dual cam systems are not needed because of the way the Pullrite works. Yes, I spent the big money for the Pullrite....but no more "white knuckes".

dscluchfc · 06-24-2004, 12:11 PM

Jack, mine is the old style with the U bolts under the LP bottles.
Still, once installed, you have to find a level straight road of several hundred feet to line the tow rig and trailer up STRAIGHT, then set the cams and saddles in the proper towing position. Most dealers don't want to mess with it is what I have observed. They just want your money in their pocket, and you on the road.

FireFighter · 06-24-2004, 12:17 PM

way to go Mark Pull Rite is a bad azz hitch if i did not have two tow vehicles i would have seriously considered this.

Silvertwinkie · 06-24-2004, 12:17 PM

I installed my DualCam HP by myself. I measured about 30x and drilled once. Took about an hour tops. Not difficult at all. Not sure what some folks think this whole thing takes to setup, but I would say that it is not that much more difficult than installing a friction setup.

Chuck · 06-24-2004, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dscluchfc

Jack,
Still, once installed, you have to find a level straight road of several hundred feet to line the tow rig and trailer up STRAIGHT, then set the cams and saddles in the proper towing position.

my manual says "100 feet". most parking lots should be more than adequate.

FireFighter · 06-24-2004, 12:21 PM

Silvertwinkie did you do the straight driving to finish the setup, sounds like you just measured and that is all enlitin us please

dscluchfc · 06-24-2004, 12:24 PM

You can do it in a hundred feet...300-400 ft is better because you can set it, and then drive a hundred feet and check it...and repeat to make sure you hit it perfect.

Silvertwinkie · 06-24-2004, 12:38 PM

I had measured and installed the brackets, then I drove the coach around town (much more than 100'). I then adjusted the "adjuster bolts" on the cam, took it back out around the block and it was perfect.