Reese dual cam WD hitch help

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

Some aftermarket hitches are installed using bolts in existing holes. They supply a nut with a wire spot welded to it. You insert the nut and hold the wire until you can hit the threads, easier than you think, and the wire stays inside the frame. Genius!

Neato! I'll look into it further, just for satisfaction.
But my Ezy-Lift is working, so........................

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by MelGoddard

Neato! I'll look into it further, just for satisfaction.
But my Ezy-Lift is working, so........................

So several days later; (I was in the hospital for heart problems, which spoiled my booked trip:-(
I took a look at my frame end to see if I had what you showed.

Nope! The ends of my frame are covered with a steel plate, that has a bottom hole in it, presumably to prevent or drain water from sitting in the tube and rusting.
Good engineering, but not accessible.

[sheriff1]

My 2010 was open, 2014 is as you describe with welded plates. That had been recognized as a rodent entry point.

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by sheriff1

my 2010 was open, 2014 is as you describe with welded plates. That had been recognized as a rodent entry point.

cute!

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by sheriff1

My 2010 was open, 2014 is as you describe with welded plates. That had been recognized as a rodent entry point.

My 2007 is open. Installed stainless steel pot scrubbers to keep mice out.

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by MelGoddard

Where did this "75 ft. lbs." come from?
I stated above that Reese calls for 50 ft. lb.
And where did these 'Rivet-nuts' come from?
I made no such mention of them, and neither does Reese; although I do think that they are a great idea for this application.

Hope this clarifies the Rivet Nuts and 75ft/lbs of torque.

http://www.hitchpro.net/application/...ons/n26002.pdf

Page 5 of the Reese installation manual sheet 5 of 33 10/1/15 Rev. S
Step 9.
Taken from the Reese installation manual:

1. Place the dual cam bracket on the frame at the correct spot for your installation.
2. Use the long 1⁄2” bolt to clamp the bracket in position, with C-clamp still in place.
3. Using the holes in the bracket as a guide, drill two 7/16” holes into the frame.
4. Remove the bracket and drill the holes out to 11/16”. Do not ream out the hole. This needs to be a snug fit.
5. Put the Rivet Nuts into the holes in the frame.
Rivet Nut
6. Place the bracket over the rivet nuts, thread the 1⁄2-13 x 1-1/2 hex head bolts with lock washers into the holes.
7. Tighten the long 1⁄2” bolt against the frame, 1⁄2 turn after contact with the frame.
8. Tighten the 1⁄2” bolts on the outside of the frame.
9. Torque to 75 ft. lbs.[/QUOTE]

FOUND IT!
MY REESE instruction book is: P/N: 26002IN, same as yours, BUT........
Mine is Rev. 'K'; 50 ft. lbs on Sht. 6 of 27.

YOUR book is Rev. 'S', (33 sheets), and it calls for 75 ft. lbs. as you stated.
It also includes a "Rivet-Nut" which mine does not.
I wish it did, as it's a hell of a good idea.

It seems that in Canada we get the left-overs from your production lines.[/QUOTE]


Later: I ordered two sets of 'Riv-Nuts" from E-Trailer, and after almost a month of waiting, they arrived today.
Now,, I can work on getting this Reese Hitch reinstalled, the right way.
Two sets; one for practice on, (with a piece of 1/4" steel,) the other to install the hitch with.: D
(I only have one chance to do it right.)

[MelGoddard]

So, today, Sept.1, I finally installed the two Reese cam brackets on the AS.
It wasn't easy; it took quite a long time to drill the 11/16" hole in the A-frame. (It's tempered steel.)
And in spite of needing to hammer the riv-nuts into the holes, (Tight fit), two of them still rotated when I tightened up the bolts. So...........
I cheated, and the job was done perfectly.
Tomorrow, I can hook up the Ford, and after re-adjustment, for a lighter empty FC, I can take it on the road to prove it out.

[MelGoddard]

TODAY, Sept. 2.:
Installed the rest of the hitch and put the Ford on it. Everything fit perfectly,(almost).
Took it out on the 401 to prove it out, and it worked.
Seemed to be a tad light on the steering wheel, but I had a light trailer, not loaded, and in Southwestern Ontario, lots of wind is the order of the day. And Mother Nature obeyed the orders.

And this raises a question:
In setting up a new WD hitch, there is a lot of 'fooferaw' and measuring to get the assembly level; what with measuring TV 'drop' front and rear when setting up the chains and bars, and gizmos and gadgets. So............

What's the matter with just putting a spirit level on the floor or door-sill of the car, and another one on the floor of the trailer,? (or better yet, the floor of the freezer in the fridge.)??
Then, all one has to do is to load up the trailer, and the TV. and crank up the chains until everything is level.
When I load up the 'Tin Can Shed', I check the level on the A-frame, and if it's off a little, I move a wooden stair platform that I made, fwd. or aft. as a Wt.&B trimmer.
If it's off a lot, I may move some 'cargo' around.
As for the chain; when I find the link that consistently works, I trim off the rest.

It works.

Trailer Trash in a Tin Can Shed.

[Bill M.]

Probably nothing wrong with using a level to check level. But what you really need is to check the actual weight distribution. A trip to the CAT scales is needed for that. You can start by measuring the front fender heights before and after as per the instructions but on a 250 I think the weights will give you a better setup. Level is important but you have to get the weight distribution adjustment dialed in first. Front end feels light could be that you need more weight transfer. On my Dodge I like to get almost back to the unloaded front axle weight with the transfer. On the Reese once it is setup all you have to do is use the same number of links when you hitch each time. Nothing else to check. Weight transfer comes first, level comes second. It can be perfectly level but still way out of adjustment.

[Ruscal]

As Bill above said level is not what you are looking for unless you are parked with the fridge running. It is all about redistributing tongue weight to the front of the truck and trailer axles. A scale will tell you with the most accuracy. If no scale is available the tape measure to the wheel well height can be very good.
Russ

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by Ruscal

As Bill above said level is not what you are looking for unless you are parked with the fridge running. It is all about redistributing tongue weight to the front of the truck and trailer axles. A scale will tell you with the most accuracy. If no scale is available the tape measure to the wheel well height can be very good.
Russ

What both you and Bill said, doesn't sound right.

If I hook my FC onto the Ford, without WD, the aft of the Ford will sink down, and the nose will rise; giving me a very light steering.

With WD installed, the weight will be transferred to the nose, bringing it back down, and the aft will rise a bit.

If set up right, the rig will be level; TV and RV.
Which brings me back to the original question.

[Ruscal]

Billiard tables are level, roads aren't. So measuring to the road surface is a good way to even things out. Throw the level away.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by Bill M.

. . .
. . . But what you really need is to check the actual weight distribution. A trip to the CAT scales is needed for that.
. . .

Ditto. "Level" just a rough adjustment to dial in a new set up.

[Bill M.]

I am a stubborn old cuss. I think what I said is correct.

Yes, moving the truck back towards level is the correct way to go with the WD bars. It is just that many people and some manafacturers specify hitch weight bar adjustment in terms of the amount of weight removed from and then restored to the front axle. The Reese instructions for my hitch specified the return of the front fender height to make the initial adjustment. You can certainly do it your way and adjust the hitch by how it feels when you drive. I like having the weights also. My truck seems to like to be back almost to the unhitched front axle weight and not much more than that.

So to sum, proper setup to my mind depends on 2 things: 1). Having the proper amount of weight transferred back to the front axle. 2) having the trailer sitting level when the rig is on a level surface. Whether or not the truck is level is not something I care about. In my case it does sit about level when hooked up.

I adjusted the weight transfer with the tilt of the hitch head and the links of chain to the bars then adjusted the level of the trailer by changing the ball height on the drop shank. My truck is a 4x4 so it took a bit of drop.

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by Bill M.

I am a stubborn old cuss. I think what I said is correct.

Yes, moving the truck back towards level is the correct way to go with the WD bars. It is just that many people and some manafacturers specify hitch weight bar adjustment in terms of the amount of weight removed from and then restored to the front axle. The Reese instructions for my hitch specified the return of the front fender height to make the initial adjustment. You can certainly do it your way and adjust the hitch by how it feels when you drive. I like having the weights also. My truck seems to like to be back almost to the unhitched front axle weight and not much more than that.

So to sum, proper setup to my mind depends on 2 things: 1). Having the proper amount of weight transferred back to the front axle. 2) having the trailer sitting level when the rig is on a level surface. Whether or not the truck is level is not something I care about. In my case it does sit about level when hooked up.

I adjusted the weight transfer with the tilt of the hitch head and the links of chain to the bars then adjusted the level of the trailer by changing the ball height on the drop shank. My truck is a 4x4 so it took a bit of drop.

Well, Thursday, I'm on the road again to a place in SouthWestern Ontario.
Wed. is when I load the 'tin shed', and after I put it on the roadway, I'll check the hitch and levels then.
I keep the AS on a dedicated level pad behind my house, but there is not enough room for both the Ford, and the AS to be level. The Ford will tilt fwd. towards the street.
The street, however is a dead end 'keyhole' and level. So I'm good there.

This trip will confirm my settings.

[MelGoddard]

And today, i'm sitting at a fire at the CG, and having a coffee.
I started out with both trailer and Ford level; and the trip confirmed the settings.
To my mind, the steering still seemed a little light, but then it always did with the Reese on two ASs. As set up by Andy's guys at CanAm.
The Ezy-Lift seemed a little better, but not much; and it 'groaned'.
I'm staying with the Reese.��

[MelGoddard]

OK, you 'Hitch-perts';
Gotta question for you, 'cause I'm curious. (some would say that I look funny too.)

The Reese instruction book tells us to set the angle of the ball mount at 15 degrees to the hitch, as mine is.

IF, I were to change the angle, either greater or lessor, what would change in the dynamics of towing?
Big Difference? little Difference? No difference? in towing?

Trailer Trash in a Wheeled Tin Can Shed.

[Larry C]

Increasing, or decreasing that angle will put more or less pressure on your trunion bars. More pressure equals more weight transferred to your front wheels of the tow vehicle.....less, more weight on the rear axle of the tow vehicle..

Larry

[Bill M.]

Yes to what Larry said. I have my hitch angled down to the maximum and still have the notches all filled. I get the front weight back to almost as much as the unhitched weight.

So if you tip the hitch down a little more and use the same number of links you I'll put a little more weight on the front axle. You can test how you might like that by hooking up 1 link tighter and test drive.

And it might be that the greater the angle down and the more weight transferred to the front axle the more resistance to sway the hitch has.

[MelGoddard]

Originally Posted by Larry C

Increasing, or decreasing that angle will put more or less pressure on your trunion bars. More pressure equals more weight transferred to your front wheels of the tow vehicle.....less, more weight on the rear axle of the tow vehicle..

Larry

OK;

But Wouldn't taking up the chain by one link do the same thing?

(See previous post, [July 31,] for further information.)