Reese Dual Cam or Equal-i-zer ?

[LuminumTraila]

Our new Bambi has arrived at the dealer and we're going to pick it up on Saturday!! As you can tell, we're just a wee bit excited...

We sold our Draw-tite hitch with our '76 Safari, so the question of the day is which hitch should we go with for the new Bambi? Our options are the Reese Dual Cam with sway control from a very reputable local dealer, or the Equal-i-zer from our Airstream dealer. I'm not sure I completely understand the differences, if any, between these two brands, but the difference in price is approximately $300 -- the Reese Dual Cam being the more costly (because we're not buying it from the Airstream dealer and they will need more time to install this hitch than they would for the Equal-i-zer). The forum is filled with threads that have nothing but praise for the Reese Dual Cam, but I'm wondering if it's worth the $300 to go with it over the Equal-i-zer. Any opinions or advise will be greatly appreciated.

-Jamie

[Silvertwinkie]

Both are good hitches. Having had a 19' Bambi with Reese, I'd have to say that worked well for me. I used friction sway control, which might be all that you need for a 19'. I'm not sure you'll need to go the dual cam route for a 19 footer, but if you have the $$$, it might not hurt, as long as you have the correct size weight bars and there is some flex to them. If you go friction, the $300 difference should evaporate. I now buy most of my gear either off eBay or from www.reesehitch.com Both have the items needed for nearly 1/2 from new and usually, you don't have to worry about the pig iron being damaged in shipment.

Installation either way isn't really all that difficult....maybe a 4 or 5 out of 10 (being the hardest).

[Chuck]

wooHOO!!!! do we get to see it on Memorial Day??!!


I have a "dual-cam", and I must say, I know nothing of this "sway" of which these people speak so often.

BUT...I've also never heard anyone "dis" the equal-i-zer, and having seen them up close, I can say that they're easier to hookup/unhook. The dual-cam can be a PITA to attach or remove, if your tow vehicle isn't perfectly alligned (straight) with the trailer. The cams have these "stirrups" that surround the ends of the spring bars. the stirrups connect to the chains, which are held up by the "snap-up" brackets on the a-frame of the trailer. When you unhook the chains, the stirrups fold down over the ends of the spring-bars, and you can then remove them. however, if the trailer isn't perfectly straight, one of these bars will be pushed back far enough so that the stirrup can't slip over the end of the bar, at which point, you either have to re-connect and straighten out the rig, OR, take out a couple of 9/16ths wrenches and remove the stirrup that way.
that may not be an issue for you, but if you were to park at my house...it would be. there are no long, straight approaches to any of the possible parking spots. At most campgrounds, there is room to both back in, AND straighten out.

[bradk]

Congrats on the new rig!

We have a 19' CCD and use the Equal-i-zer hitch. It's very easy to hookup and work with. We never felt an ounce of sway on our trip with the trailer behind us. I know next to nothing about the Reese but certainly both it and Equal-i-zer have plenty of fans around here.

cheers,
b.

[myoung]

We pull a 2006 Safari FB LS with an Equal-i-zer with absolutely no sway or roll induced by trucks, buses, wind, road surface, you name it. Compared to your 19-footer, ours weighs 5,300 pounds or just about identical to our Dodge Durango, which has what some on this Forum insist is too short a wheelbase. Again, the proof is in the towing. Get the Equal-i-zer and be happy.

This past weekend I had to opportunity to watch others hook up Reese and Hensley hitches. Way too much work and far too much perfect alignment needed. Why work so hard? With the Equal-i-zer it doesn't matter a bit what angle you approach the ball receiver. I've come at it as much a 60 degrees off line with no difficulty whatsoever. I'll bet you couldn't do that with the other brands.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by dougjamie

Our new Bambi has arrived at the dealer and we're going to pick it up on Saturday!! As you can tell, we're just a wee bit excited...

We sold our Draw-tite hitch with our '76 Safari, so the question of the day is which hitch should we go with for the new Bambi? Our options are the Reese Dual Cam with sway control from a very reputable local dealer, or the Equal-i-zer from our Airstream dealer. I'm not sure I completely understand the differences, if any, between these two brands, but the difference in price is approximately $300 -- the Reese Dual Cam being the more costly (because we're not buying it from the Airstream dealer and they will need more time to install this hitch than they would for the Equal-i-zer). The forum is filled with threads that have nothing but praise for the Reese Dual Cam, but I'm wondering if it's worth the $300 to go with it over the Equal-i-zer. Any opinions or advise will be greatly appreciated.

-Jamie

I've set up both types and I use the Equal-i-zer on my 19CCD. Several factors were involved in my decision: Both work well and Reese is a well known and respected company, as is EQ. It came down to simplicity of operation and the fact that you can use a heavier Equal-i-zer if you might be upgrading in the future with no effect on the smaller unit that you have now, save for a slightly harsher TV ride with a lighter trailer. This tid-bit came from EQ directly. They don't use weight bars so you never have to change them with another trailer.

A deciding factor if I was in your situation is the fact that the dealer sells, installs and guarantees the Equal-i-zer. That would be the clincher for me.

[LuminumTraila]

Thanks, all, for the advice and information. It seems like the consensus is for for the Equal-i-zer in our situation and I think that's what we'll go with. It will save us some money, we can get it from the Airstream dealer and they'll back it up, it will be easier for both of us to use, and it can be hitched up at an angle which is important since we have a similar driveway situation to what Chuck has. The Equal-i-zer apparently provides both weight distribution and friction sway control, so we should be all set to go.

Thanks again for your help!

btw -- Chuck, we can't make it to the Mem Day rally. D'ya think you could slip in an extra vote for us?

[CanoeStream]

Originally Posted by chuck

BUT...I've also never heard anyone "dis" the equal-i-zer, and having seen them up close, I can say that they're easier to hookup/unhook. The dual-cam can be a PITA to attach or remove, if your tow vehicle isn't perfectly alligned (straight) with the trailer. The cams have these "stirrups" that surround the ends of the spring bars. the stirrups connect to the chains, which are held up by the "snap-up" brackets on the a-frame of the trailer. When you unhook the chains, the stirrups fold down over the ends of the spring-bars, and you can then remove them. however, if the trailer isn't perfectly straight, one of these bars will be pushed back far enough so that the stirrup can't slip the rig, OR, take out a couple of 9/16ths wrenches and remove the stirrup that over the end of the bar, at which point, you either have to re-connect and straighten out........

I completely agree with Chuck that the Equalizer has some characteristics that would make me think again (though I do have the Reese Dual-Cam). I have to approach a few steps in order with the Reese but I wouldn't say that I have to "perfectly" align the trailer. It may be ignorance, but this is the knock I've always heard about the Hensley. The Reese is no problem ... really. I'd say it's more like 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other. I am selling my Argosy when I get my head, time and a few tasks straightened out -- and I will install an Equalizer just for simplicity sake. Otherwise I am perfectly happy with the Reese.

[Minnie's Mate]

What about longer units? We are about to purchase one of the last...yes, last of the 30' Safari BH's and I wonder if the dual cam would be better for the longer and heavier trailer. I seem to recall something about adjusting the friction types for rainy travel. I'll be pulling with an F-250 SB crew cab. Any advise?

[Devoman]

Mabey this will help some.
http://www.equalizerhitch.com/produc...tech_specs.php
I really like mine.all I use mine for though is just for sway.I dont really need weight distribution.It can handle sway very well.In fact I have had Big Rigs drive by me in excess speeds and it still handles it with no swaying at all.I am glad I purchased and Equalizer Hitch.

[j54mark]

I've never even thought about alignment problems when hitching up my Dual Cam. I just back the truck up, raise the hitch, insert the spring bars, and I'm pretty much ready to go. But now that you mention it, I guess you do have to be fairly well lined up. If it was ever a problem I guess I'd just pull the rig forward a few feet until it was straight enough.

That said, I have always thought the Equilizer was a quality-looking hitch, and I doubt seriously if I'd pony up an extra $300 for a Reese.

Mark

[59toaster]

Originally Posted by j54mark

I've never even thought about alignment problems when hitching up my Dual Cam. I just back the truck up, raise the hitch, insert the spring bars, and I'm pretty much ready to go. But now that you mention it, I guess you do have to be fairly well lined up. If it was ever a problem I guess I'd just pull the rig forward a few feet until it was straight enough.

That said, I have always thought the Equilizer was a quality-looking hitch, and I doubt seriously if I'd pony up an extra $300 for a Reese.

Mark

I think the alignment issue is the first time set up. Its critical that you mount the saddle bars so they sit in the middle of the cams and the trailer has to be in line with the TV. Once thats done its no big issue that you can overcome with a little muscle.

Nobody asked so I am going to.

What are you pulling with? Its critical on the DC to select the right bars for the vehicle. With a heavier vehicle like a 3/4 ton truck you actually want to use a lighter bar like a 550lb. If you don't get enough flex out of the bars on a DC you can unload the cams and cause the DC to become ineffective.

[cosmotini]

Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate

What about longer units? We are about to purchase one of the last...yes, last of the 30' Safari BH's and I wonder if the dual cam would be better for the longer and heavier trailer. I seem to recall something about adjusting the friction types for rainy travel. I'll be pulling with an F-250 SB crew cab. Any advise?

We use the Equal-I-Zer with our 28' CCD.

Jcanavara tows a 30' Classic with slide out with an Equal-I-Zer.

[Silvertwinkie]

Originally Posted by chuck

The dual-cam can be a PITA to attach or remove, if your tow vehicle isn't perfectly alligned (straight) with the trailer. The cams have these "stirrups" that surround the ends of the spring bars.

I've had the dual cam HP now for a few seasons, with several non straight hookups when boondocking in some remote areas that required creative parking. I've never run into any of the issues as described, even with the TV uneven and at an angle. As a matter of fact, I've often thought how easy they are to connect and disconnect, even in the roughest situation I've thrown at them....and to me, they've been as easy as connecting a friction sway control unit, if not easier.

[uwe]

Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie

I've had the dual cam HP now for a few seasons, with several non straight hookups when boondocking in some remote areas that required creative parking. I've never run into any of the issues as described, even with the TV uneven and at an angle. As a matter of fact, I've often thought how easy they are to connect and disconnect, even in the roughest situation I've thrown at them....and to me, they've been as easy as connecting a friction sway control unit, if not easier.

Same here. I had a friction type sway control before, and would never again go back to it. This, at least for me, would rule out the Equal-i-zer if it's anti-sway properties indeed are based on friction alone.

[madrone]

Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie

I've had the dual cam HP now for a few seasons, with several non straight hookups when boondocking in some remote areas that required creative parking. I've never run into any of the issues as described, even with the TV uneven and at an angle. As a matter of fact, I've often thought how easy they are to connect and disconnect, even in the roughest situation I've thrown at them....and to me, they've been as easy as connecting a friction sway control unit, if not easier.

That has been my experience with the Reese Twin Cam also, they do look complex but are easy to use and they
handle superb on the highway IMHO

[Minnie's Mate]

I'm no engineer, just an architect and what little I've studied the two it seems the dual cam would make more sense. The cams and the stirrups would be self straightening where as the friction bars would have the tendency to keep the trailer out of line when it would go out as much as it would keep in line before the sway. If that makes sense. Of course I haven't bought a trailer just yet, but we are getting close so it hasn't been too much of a study issue in the past. Now it is getting to be more of an important subject.

[myoung]

Minnie's Mate, you are not an engineer. I've reread your explanation several times and it doesn't make any sense. Perhaps you could draw a picture to make your ideas more clear.

[AgZep]

I too have an engineering background, but I wouldn't worry about the friction aspect of the Equal-I-Zer. The Equal-I-Zer "friction" feature is nothing like the add-on friction sway control systems people use with other hitches. It is merely the by-product of the weight distribution arms sliding through their mounting brackets as the the trailer swings to one side or the other behind the tow vehicle. You never have to adjust the friction in any way. In fact, I always put a little grease on the mounting brackets, just to cut down the creaking sounds you get sometimes when making very sharp turns at low speeds.

In about 10,000 miles of towing our 28' CCD (which is right at the top of its allowable weight limit) with an Equal-I-Zer hitch, I have never experienced any hint of sway, even in panic stops or while dealing with brutal Wyoming crosswinds. Something else might provide better sway control, but I can't imagine needing any, at least so far.

Other than cleaning the old grease off, and re-applying new grease from time to time, the hitch has been entirely maintenance and adjustment free. I love being able to hitch at any weird angle between the trailer and the truck, including differing ground slopes. And you don't need to drill any holes in your trailer frame to install one.

Please understand I am in no way denigrating Hensleys or Dual Cams. Just trying to add my experiences with the hitch I've got. So far, I haven't found any downsides to it, but if and when I do, I'll be sure to post them here.

[85MH325]

I have absolutely no experience with the Equalizer. I have about twenty years of Dual Cam, Reese standard equalizer, and bare-ball towing experiences. FWIW, the Dual Cam's sway control is also friction-based; but in a much different way than a ball-mount friction bar.

I will probably always use a Dual Cam just because I'm used to the setup, and I know how to fine-tune one easily just because I've used them so long and on so many trailers. The one feature I think that makes the Reese Dual Cam superior is that not only does it resist sway, but it is self-centering and causes the trailer to return to a straight position because of the cam saddles.

I have never had any difficulty hitching up the Reese, even under bad angle conditions. The key is having the tongue raised high enough not to have stress on the bars when they're installed, and they'll go on without effort pretty much regardless of hitch angle.

Minnie's Mate; regarding hitch type and heavier trailers... I think that the weight of the trailer itself isn't as important in hitch selection as the trailer weight to tow vehicle weight ratio and (yes, myoung) the tow vehicle's wheelbase. When bad things happen when you're towing, they happen fast. They happen faster and in a less controllable fashion the lighter the tow vehicle and the shorter it's wheelbase in relation to the towed load. So, the larger the towed load in relation to the tow vehicle, the more important it is to have control at the hitch.

In much the same vein as motorcyclists who claim that there are two kinds of riders: those who have crashed, and those who haven't crashed yet, there are similar groups in trailer towing. There are those who have had sway episodes and those who haven't... yet. And there are a few of us who have had more than one severe sway episode over the years from various causes with various towing setups. For folks looking to set their rigs up for optimum control, it's always wise to listen to folks who have had problems and how they fixed them. Folks who haven't yet experienced a severe sway episode are fortunate... but not immune.

Good hitches can mask the true causes of sway until those causes overcome the hitch dynamics and folks find themselves in real trouble. Factors that are equally important and seldom discussed in hitch, brake, and/or sway discussions are tire ratings, and proper pressures, and proper trailer loading all of which are as important if not more important to stable trailer towing than your hitch setup. You always want to make sure all of the factors that contribute to sway are dealt with before you hitch up.

If your trailer is loaded properly, you have an adequately sized tow vehicle, you have the proper rated tires for your load, all of the tires are properly aired up for the load, and if the tow vehicle and trailer are properly engineered and aligned, you more than likely would never need sway control. Altering any one of these is where sway control really helps. Altering two or more of these factors, and it becomes a necessity. Unfortunately few of us have scales at home to weigh for proper balance, and tires can go flat quickly while driving, so sway control is always necessary.

Roger