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Old 08-27-2018, 08:23 AM   #81
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Propride Power WD engineering

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Originally Posted by crispyboy View Post
You have very good fabricating skills and a good idea for some folks who like the goose neck style of hitch.
Question - I notice that the existing trailer ball is utilized but are the beams fastened anywhere else to the trailer tongue?


Iím thinking that with all of that leverage acting on that existing trailer tongue that it might be prone to bending over some rough roads.

If Iím right, and Iím just about certain that I am, you will find that it bends right in front of the trailer body.

Edit: On a second look it looks like you reinforced the tongue area.... but its hard to know for sure..... or how far back the reinforcement goes. Iím thinking you would have to go back at least four feet under the trailer to insure a durable product. There is LOTS of leverage acting on a thin gauge narrow channel there.
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Old 08-27-2018, 08:35 AM   #82
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Itís also baffling to me when a person with a Hensley designed hitch doesnít have results that are as good as a fifth wheel. My Hensley handles every bit as good as any fifth wheel Iíve ever pulled, and Iíve pulled a lot.

Maybe I just got lucky?
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Old 08-28-2018, 01:14 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
Itís also baffling to me when a person with a Hensley designed hitch doesnít have results that are as good as a fifth wheel. My Hensley handles every bit as good as any fifth wheel Iíve ever pulled, and Iíve pulled a lot.

Maybe I just got lucky?
I believe its more like I just got unlucky. I believe in the hitch, but there is something about the rigs I've pulled with this hitch, some manufacturing flaw in my specific hitch that is not apparent, and/or the conditions where I pull that have led me to be disappointed in a hitch I paid almost $3000 for. I did a lot of reading on both hitches and there are instances where people have had a similar experiences, but most people are satisfied. Believe me I, tried everything.
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Old 08-28-2018, 01:29 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crispyboy View Post
You have very good fabricating skills and a good idea for some folks who like the goose neck style of hitch.
Question - I notice that the existing trailer ball is utilized but are the beams fastened anywhere else to the trailer tongue?
I attaches at the rear of the adapter with a set of clamps under the trailer where the A-frame attaches the main trailer frame. On many newer, non-AS TTs the A-frame runs underneath the main frame about 3'.
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Old 08-28-2018, 01:52 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
Iím thinking that with all of that leverage acting on that existing trailer tongue that it might be prone to bending over some rough roads.

If Iím right, and Iím just about certain that I am, you will find that it bends right in front of the trailer body.

Edit: On a second look it looks like you reinforced the tongue area.... but its hard to know for sure..... or how far back the reinforcement goes. Iím thinking you would have to go back at least four feet under the trailer to insure a durable product. There is LOTS of leverage acting on a thin gauge narrow channel there.
On many newer, non-AS TTs, the A-frame attaches in two places because the A-frame runs underneath the main frame about 3' and doesn't attach directly to the front of the main frame like an AS. The reinforcement angles on the adapter run all the way back to where the A-frame attaches the main frame (see pictures). Look at the video in my first post about the adapter. That guy did the same thing but welded it on. If this were applied to an AS, you are correct, there would have to be a reinforcement run underneath the rear of he A-frame back to the main frame in a similar way to avoid any additional loading of where the A-frame attaches to the main TT frame, but that would be a minor addition that is not necessary in this application because of the way the A-frame is attached to this non-AS TT.
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Old 09-25-2018, 01:21 AM   #86
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Finished project. The best pulling TT I have ever experienced. Pulls perfect with no bad habits at all.
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Old 09-25-2018, 09:21 PM   #87
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Barry, I wish you did engineering like this for Airstream. They could use the help. Iím still working on the power WD jacks slowly. Way too busy with work and family.
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Old 09-26-2018, 06:18 AM   #88
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I did't want to get divorced for messing with that expensive rascal. Thats one of the reasons I traded it in.The 5er is not new and is paid-for, no more payments to worry with. I don't want something I can't tinker with. Note, the rear of the F150 doesn't set down but about an inch with the stock springs and nothing else. The front doesn't set down at all, or more importantly, doesn't raise any at all. The longer leverage point, all the hitch weight, and actual pivot-point being just forward of the rear axel is the weight distribution system. The same principal as a wheelbarrow, or lever rule. The longer the handle, the more weight transferred to the wheel and the easier it is to pick up a heavy load (see formula below). This is how a 5,200 lb truck can easily handle a 8,500 lb loaded trailer. I took it to the CAT scales loaded for camping just to see what was going on and discovered the rear truck axel is 800 lbs heaver than no trailer, the front axel is 50 lbs heaver and the trailer axels are 350 lbs heavier. Still well within the weight limits of the truck by nearly 2000 lbs and TT by nearly 2500 lbs. Now, they can haul a lot more stuff. The tongue-weight with the PP was nearing 1200 lbs loaded for camping, so it turned out better than I could have hoped for. The key is placement of the hitch in the bed, which is one that has a flip ball you turn over to have a flat bed when not in use.
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Old 06-13-2019, 02:38 AM   #89
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Did you ever get the power jacks installed?
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Old 06-13-2019, 07:27 AM   #90
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Propride Power WD engineering

Yup. They are installed, but I need to find the cross shaft assembly and get electrical power to them. Its in a box somewhere.

I have about 1/2 inch clearance from the AS battery box to the electrical box on the curb side jack, but I can still access my batteries and get to the battery watering system to top them off.

Tight, but doable. I will be up there this weekend and will try to grab some pictures and get it working.

Other than the weight and bulk it was an easy install. I have vinyl jack cover bags over each power head to keep rain and sun off them.

Looks rather cool.
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Old 08-11-2019, 09:31 AM   #91
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Propride Power WD engineering

Ok, crimped on power connectors, and found the cross shaft. Sigh, itís about 6Ē too long to hook up. Iíll have to shorten it a bit to use it.

I tensioned the WD jacks for a short move, and interestingly, they stayed very close to synced until I lowered them all the way down. I used the manual crank on one of them to line them up again. I think a limit switch for the full down position will help protect the shear pins. Thereís a lot of torque available on those motors!

Did notice that the relay arrangement gets lots of dynamic braking when you try the hand crank. May need to add a switch to disconnect both motor leads from the relays to make hand cranking easier. Minor design fix with a DPST switch to open one lead to each motor separately. Good thing the crank handle is long!

I have to separate the two parts of the cross shaft, and shorten the one internal rod part, redrill the pin hole, and get it installed again. Looks like itís about 4Ē too long. Good thing I have a drill press and a decent vise.

Initial impressions are that it is really a whole lot easier than hand cranking the old jacks but they do take some time to get up there to 7 inches or so.

Going to be a nice addition even though Iím using only the manual switch for now. Of course the remote key fob has found a good place to hide from me...it canít have gone far....

Still have to replace the one damaged light, but itís not a critical issue. Found a likely replacement already.

Overall, this is looking great!
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2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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Old 08-19-2019, 10:45 PM   #92
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Propride Power WD engineering

Hereís what it looks like. At night...curbside jack has the relay control box on it.

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Getting a bit crowded on the A-frame....
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'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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Old 08-22-2019, 02:05 PM   #93
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Can you measure amp draw?

Sounds great.
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Old 08-23-2019, 08:59 AM   #94
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Iím on the road at the moment. I do know that a 40 amp MRBF fuse feeding the two jack motors does not blow even if I am raising the jacks with a full load on the motors. It has lots of mechanical advantage, but you can tel itís working hard. Easy to fine-tune WD on the rad without breaking out the tools. Itís a one-off system put together by another member of the forums. Basically standard BAL jacks set up by ProPride and he added a couple power jack heads and some electronics to control them. Whatís missing is a cross shaft that keeps the two jacks synchronized. I have to shorten it to fit and ran outta time prepping for this trip.
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'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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Old 05-27-2020, 05:29 PM   #95
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Hereís another picture in daylight from the streetside:

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'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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