ProPride installation

[NeahBay]

1/16” side to side is fine, it’s not going anywhere. Just make sure the bolts are torqued properly.

The WD jacks can be positioned 26-27.5” from the coupler, V1 jacks at least. I had to move mine all the way back to 27.5” to clear the tank cover (original jacks). I’ve ordered the new V2 jacks, but won’t receive them until August unfortunately (mid 6-8 week trip).

[1StreamDream]

yea, I did a poor job of absorbing the instructions in the manual, I see that statement in there (for the v2 jacks) as well. I was too strict in trying to follow the original statement of measuring out to 26" ... the manual clearly says you can move 1 to 1.5" either way from that point, to avoid the gas bottle enclosure or other obstructions. All I did was follow that note (without realizing).

[SeeMore]

The responses regarding locks all linked to examples of stinger locks versus the trailer side coupler latch lock. You can choose to use those or here is the lock Propride sells for the head unit side:
https://store.propridehitch.com/coupler-lock-23022/

The installation manual should reference the detailed, eight-part installation series ProPride released on YouTube featuring Brent, their in-house technical guru, which also includes commentary about what and when post install maintenance behaviors. All the thread questions are addressed and more.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oEOe7OjIbI

[SailorSam205]

Originally Posted by NeahBay

... I’ve ordered the new V2 jacks, but won’t receive them until August unfortunately (mid 6-8 week trip).

I'm wondering how much benefit there is in the new jacks. I've gotten the ads promoting them but haven't been sold... yet. Thoughts?

[jaybauman]

Originally Posted by SailorSam205

I'm wondering how much benefit there is in the new jacks. I've gotten the ads promoting them but haven't been sold... yet. Thoughts?

I just received my new jacks and installed them yesterday. For the first time ever, I can open my front storage locker door to it's full capability! It's a beautiful thing. This is enough reason for me to upgrade.

[djbar]

For a 25' FB Twin AS the ProPride legacy weight distribution jacks (V1) have to be mounted such that they preclude the forward storage hatch door from opening more than about 1/2-2/3 of the way. I've seen confirmation that the new V2 WD Jacks allow full opening of the front hatch door on 27'-33' AS.



Has anyone confirmed that the V2's will allow same full opening on a 25' FB Twin?
Reluctant to drop another $300 if door still won't open fully.


Thanks.

[Ephraim]

Originally Posted by jaybauman

The jacks cannot be moved any further forward, or I cannot open the battery box. They are back a bit more than I would like, but everything seems to work OK. I am hopeful that the V2 jacks give me more space for battery box and, more importantly, front hatch access.

I had the same problem with the positioning of the V1 jacks. I ended up taking an angle grinder and chopping off just a bit of the corner of the jack base that was blocking the opening of the battery cover.

I also cut off the forward wing of the bar deflector on each jack so that it wouldn't hit the LP tank cover. With my installation, that part of the deflector was never in contact with the bars anyway.

[ndfan77]

Originally Posted by kukula

I got a piece of linoleum flooring and cut it up to make some shims to lift the propane tanks above the U-bolts. Two layers did the job, and then duct tape to hold them in place. Rather primitive... I'll keep an eye on this, for sure!

I've had a ProPride hitch in the garage for two years waiting for a trailer, which should happen early next week (2024 FC 27FBT), and from what I've heard from the dealer it has the same tank retaining brackets you show (and the same 30 lb tanks that don't have much clearance).

I'll be trying to do the hitch install at the dealer after the sale is finalized (thankfully they'll let me do it indoors), and I'll be taking some material to shim the LP tanks up if needed to clear the Frame Bracket u-bolts.

Was your Frame Bracket centered exactly within the Yoke Tail in the photos provided? If I'm reading the PP manual correctly, centering the Frame Bracket longitudinally within the Yoke Tail is the goal, but if needed the Frame Bracket can be located a little more forward. So I'm wondering if the Frame Bracket was positioned an inch or two more forward if that would give the Frame Bracket u-bolts more clearance by avoiding the lowest part of the tank bottom at the center of the tank?

[Bunker]

Originally Posted by ndfan77

I've had a ProPride hitch in the garage for two years waiting for a trailer, which should happen early next week (2024 FC 27FBT), and from what I've heard from the dealer it has the same tank retaining brackets you show (and the same 30 lb tanks that don't have much clearance).

I'll be trying to do the hitch install at the dealer after the sale is finalized (thankfully they'll let me do it indoors), and I'll be taking some material to shim the LP tanks up if needed to clear the Frame Bracket u-bolts.

Was your Frame Bracket centered exactly within the Yoke Tail in the photos provided? If I'm reading the PP manual correctly, centering the Frame Bracket longitudinally within the Yoke Tail is the goal, but if needed the Frame Bracket can be located a little more forward. So I'm wondering if the Frame Bracket was positioned an inch or two more forward if that would give the Frame Bracket u-bolts more clearance by avoiding the lowest part of the tank bottom at the center of the tank?

I bet there is some variance here, but I don’t remember it being an issue to get it centered. My tanks aren’t bothered by the u bolts. The tank monitors are and I’m not super happy with how they sit between the bolts and the tank causing some pressure and poor readings. I think I just need to raise the tanks 1/8” to make everything happy.

I also just put the v2 jacks a little further than spec back so they clear the propane tank cover. No issues.

[rodsterinfl]

I have used a Pro Pride since 2013. There are times when the backing is harder and also hitching up- odd angles.

On setting the jacks, One thing to know is that setting should be done on level surface. Measure the heights of the wheel wells on tow vehicle at center before hitching. Know that Ford suspension is designed for FRONT to never be set lower than initial unloaded measure. That also sets your range of adjustment (at least on a Ford). I adjust only until I get it set to as close as possible without going too low on front. I marked the adjustment tool for jack height measurement at correct setting.

[SailorSam205]

Originally Posted by rodsterinfl

I have used a Pro Pride since 2013. There are times when the backing is harder and also hitching up- odd angles.

On setting the jacks, One thing to know is that setting should be done on level surface. Measure the heights of the wheel wells on tow vehicle at center before hitching. Know that Ford suspension is designed for FRONT to never be set lower than initial unloaded measure. That also sets your range of adjustment (at least on a Ford). I adjust only until I get it set to as close as possible without going too low on front. I marked the adjustment tool for jack height measurement at correct setting.

A couple of things that work for me.
Hitching up a odd angles - if the stinger doesn't slide in, I get out and insure that the jacks are not putting pressure on the hitch head. Once I loosen up the jacks that are putting pressure, a push with my foot against the hitch often gets it to slide farther in...
I am still using V1 hitch jacks. At the beginning of each year, I raise the jacks as far as they will go and paint the entire inside column with primer. I then lower the jack to my standard running position and put on a coat of black paint. Makes it obvious when I have the jacks at the "right" height.

[ndfan77]

Originally Posted by rodsterinfl

On setting the jacks, One thing to know is that setting should be done on level surface. Measure the heights of the wheel wells on tow vehicle at center before hitching. Know that Ford suspension is designed for FRONT to never be set lower than initial unloaded measure. That also sets your range of adjustment (at least on a Ford). I adjust only until I get it set to as close as possible without going too low on front. I marked the adjustment tool for jack height measurement at correct setting.

I have a 2022 F-150 Lariat Powerboost. If I'm understanding what you said correctly, I shouldn't try to get the front wheel wells any lower than when they were unloaded (but if I remember the WD setting process correctly [which I've only quickly glanced through till now], I thought it was basically to only add enough WD [with the jacks] to correct for 1/2 of the difference in the front wheel well between unloaded and loaded without WD)?

[SailorSam205]

Originally Posted by ndfan77

I have a 2022 F-150 Lariat Powerboost. If I'm understanding what you said correctly, I shouldn't try to get the front wheel wells any lower than when they were unloaded (but if I remember the WD setting process correctly [which I've only quickly glanced through till now], I thought it was basically to only add enough WD [with the jacks] to correct for 1/2 of the difference in the front wheel well between unloaded and loaded without WD)?

When you drop the trailer onto its hitch, the rear of the truck will sag and the front of the truck will lift. So, both statements are basically correct. You should never apply WD effort such that the front wheel well measurement is lower than it was before the trailer was hitched. To do so will excessively unload weight from the rear axle and negatively impact the correct amounts of over and under steer. Ford's corporate instructions on correctly setting WD to maintain design spec for over and under steer is that you should apply enough WD force to get the front wheel well back to 50% of the difference between no trailer and trailer with no WD. Effectively, the front wheel well measurement WILL be higher than it was with no trailer.

Clear as mud?