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Old 09-19-2018, 04:04 PM   #1
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Propride Install/Propane Tray?

After a few years of research I finally purchased a Propride hitch. I am in the install process and have a question that perhaps can be answered by those who have installed this hitch.

The frame bracket "U" bolts (second picture) are to be mounted 22" from the center of the ball (the first white mark from the front). That puts them under the propane tray. The only thing I can see to do is raise the tray. Is that what you have done? If so, how was this done?

Thanks so much! Any suggestions appreciated!
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Old 09-19-2018, 04:24 PM   #2
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I drilled a hole(s) in the tray. Had to remove one of the tray attachment bolts each side, because the u-bolts passed over the frame right where one of the tray attachment bolts was located, each side. I sprayed some Corrosion X in the holes and then plugged them. The u-bolts on each side are plenty in terms of replacing the attachment bolts' function of holding the propane bottle tray in place. For mine, the steel ring welded to the bottom of the tanks did not interfere with the u-bolts, and provided adequate clearance between the bottom of the tanks and the top of the u-bolt. So, the u-bolt is essentially hidden under each tank.

Mine ended up far enough forward of where your line is, such that the inboard side of each u-bolt dropped right through a slot already cut in the tank tray. Your set-up looks slightly different, so you will have to drill two hole each side, I think.

Your mileage may vary, don't try this at home, etc.
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Old 09-19-2018, 05:01 PM   #3
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I removed the tank cover and the tank holder base and installed the U-bolts and the bases of the WD jacks on my A-frame per the instructions. The tank tray sits on the U-bolts and the front ends of the curved round bars that keep the lift straps (for want of a better word) off the side of the A-frame.

I used much bigger and longer self-tapping bolts to re-install the tank holder into the same hole locations, as nothing interfered. The ProPride parts acted as the spacer.

In a pinch, longer bolts and a stack of washers between the A-frame and the tank holder base could also space things up nicely...

I did notice that the fasteners Airstream used to install the tank holder base looked quite wimpy for the amount of weight they are holding. I replaced them with much bigger ones--at least 3/8" outside thread diameter as I recall. I had to drill bigger clearance holes in the tank base and appropriate pilot holes in the A-frame...

Had to do the same thing for the battery box--added 1/4-20 Stainless Steel bolts and locking nuts--just 4 short #8 self-drilling screws were in it to hold down over 150 pounds of batteries--what were they thinking???

My battery box is plastic, so there is a nice sturdy nylon strap and locking buckle wrapped twice around the box and under the two support rails to hold it all together now.

Another tip, be darn sure that frame bracket is centered under the A-frame accurately. It is critical to the hitch working properly when you are towing.

You are gonna love the ProPride--best thing I ever installed on my AS.
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Old 09-19-2018, 05:16 PM   #4
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I shimmed the LP tank tray with 1/2" steel machine nuts, with the mounting screws going through them into the A-frame. Every one I've performed this on has worked well, no looseness, no wobbling, and the U-bolts act as additional support points.
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Old 09-19-2018, 05:55 PM   #5
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Move the tank tray forward and it all fits.
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:05 PM   #6
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Move the tank tray forward and it all fits.
The tank cover already hits the jack post, you can't move it forward.
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:14 PM   #7
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Worked for me. You can also turn the jack head sideways.
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Old 09-20-2018, 03:21 PM   #8
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Thanks for the tips guys. Very helpful!

Another question, I'm about to install the towers and the rubber propane line is attached via clamps riveted under one of the frame rails. Obviously the "u" clamp needs to go under the propane line or it will be crushed. How was this handled? Any concern with the rubber hose rubbing against the "u" bolt?

Thanks!
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Old 09-20-2018, 03:28 PM   #9
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On mine, the rubber line connects to a copper line that dives under the trailer. I carefully loosened and bent the copper tubing in an "S" curve just enough to clear the U-bolts for the jacks. That keeps the rubber line out of trouble as well.

If you are concerned with keeping it from rubbing, get some "corrugated split loom" from an auto supply or big box home improvement store and slip it over the gas piping. That also helps prevent flying rock damage to the tubing.
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Old 09-20-2018, 03:58 PM   #10
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I second rmkrum’s install he detailed above. Exactly what I did and it works great.
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Old 09-20-2018, 05:23 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojo View Post
Worked for me. You can also turn the jack head sideways.
The newer models have an Atwood jack that doesn't turn sideways. That is where the restriction seems to be, the jack is tight against the LP tank cover.
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Old 09-21-2018, 01:42 PM   #12
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Tower Installation Question

I'm attempting to mount the towers and where the base fits over the rail, it is really, really tight. If I could force it over the rail (and it would require a big hammer), I don't think I could move it to adjust location or remove it if necessary. And I am using the provided spacer.

Did you encounter this issue when installing the towers? If so how did you deal with it?

Thanks.
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Old 09-21-2018, 02:09 PM   #13
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Did not have that issue--Does it fit if you leave the spacer off?

I don't recall using spacers...

Where is the spacer being placed when you have this problem?

Picture would help a lot...or give Sean at ProPride a call...
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Old 09-22-2018, 01:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
Did not have that issue--Does it fit if you leave the spacer off?

I don't recall using spacers...

Where is the spacer being placed when you have this problem?

Picture would help a lot...or give Sean at ProPride a call...
Here is a picture of the tower with the spacer (shim plate). The spacer goes on the inside of the frame rail on the AS and is about 3/8 thick (.390 to be more exact).

I hope it helps to understand my issue. The only solution I can come up with is a thinner spacer.

I have not called Sean yet.

Thanks!
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Old 09-22-2018, 01:54 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans627 View Post
Here is a picture of the tower with the spacer (shim plate). The spacer goes on the inside of the frame rail on the AS and is about 3/8 thick (.390 to be more exact).

I hope it helps to understand my issue. The only solution I can come up with is a thinner spacer.

I have not called Sean yet.

Thanks!
Why not omit the spacer?
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Old 09-22-2018, 02:08 PM   #16
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Why not omit the spacer?


Sloppy fit otherwise.
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Old 09-22-2018, 03:07 PM   #17
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Those should fit tight.
Call Sean to verify.
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Old 09-22-2018, 04:18 PM   #18
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I mounted my jacks as close as I could to the propane tank mount. They were farther from the hitch ball than recommended. The tank cover sits on the protective rub rails. The links are slightly slanted rather than hanging straight down. I have noticed no problems with the hitch operation. On my trailer I would have to cut the mounting frame off and modify it to stand it off of the frame. I'd rather not weld to the frame.


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Old 10-02-2018, 04:31 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBinSD View Post
Those should fit tight.
Call Sean to verify.
I talked to Sean regarding the spacers being too thick. He said AS must have changed something relative to the frame (made it wider/thicker). He has had many calls from AS owners within the last six months saying they could not mount the towers with the provided spacers.

I asked about the purpose of the spacer. He said it is a to provide added stability to the towers when turning. The weight distribution arms exert a heavy force on the towers and when turning the force is somewhat diagonial as the bars swing out. He said that if the towers are only jacked up less than six inches (to obtain the required weight distribution) the spacer most likely is not needed.

I made new spacers out of aluminum that are about a 1/16" less then those provided.

FWIW!
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Old 10-03-2018, 08:10 AM   #20
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Do you have access to a belt sander? Put in an aggressive grit sand paper, clap the spacer in a vice and go to town. Another tool you could try is a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a aggressive flap disk. Either tool could cut quickly the spacer down to the size you need.
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