ProPride 3P bearing failure

[cwf]

Carl,
I think you got a deal there! Get the parts, a strong buddy who likes beer, his/her favorite beer. .. and recondition it.

Originally Posted by carl2591

great thread on the hitch. Guess i need to check mine as, like others, got it used and other than the serial number I have no idea how old the product.

When i asked the manf about the number I was told the number as not in the data base as I appeared to be older than 10yr old, this was 2015.

my number 223P100148PP if anyone has a clue let me know.. buy the way I paid $500 for it in feb of 2015.

[wwillson]

I just went through replacing the terribly rusted bearings in my P3. Sean did offer to rebuild the hitch, but I needed to pay shipping to get it there and back or drive it to Sean, which I didn't want to do either. The least expensive route was to order the bearing kit from Sean and do the work myself. My trailer virtually never sits outside when it's not in use and I cover the hitch while we are camping. There were a few days last year where we had to drive in the rain, well you can see the results in my video. I also found a cheap and easy way to keep the water out of the bearings. Video here: https://rvthe.us

Wayne

[ROBERT CROSS]

Slitting the cap is a 'trick' used to easily install a cap that is a little too large...as the OP learned, not a good trick.
I have even seen OEM caps with a slit, avoid.

Our Arrow was purchased in '07, maintenance every other year...NPF.👍
Covered Winter & Summer...cheep protection.

Bob
🇺🇸

[Al and Missy]

What did you do, if anything, about the top of the "axles" on the rear bearings? They have just an exposed seal. Did you not have rust in that cavity?

Asking because I bought a used hitch and all 8 bearings were rusted. Water found its way into the lower "axle" bearings as well as the top.

Did you have to do anything about the shafts and races? I ended up replacing the races and using emery cloth on the axles, thanks to guidance from CWF on here.

My solution was to pack the body cavities as best I could with grease. It's been 2 or 3 years now and the hitch is still smooth as glass.

Al

[wwillson]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

What did you do, if anything, about the top of the "axles" on the rear bearings? They have just an exposed seal. Did you not have rust in that cavity?

Asking because I bought a used hitch and all 8 bearings were rusted. Water found its way into the lower "axle" bearings as well as the top.

Did you have to do anything about the shafts and races? I ended up replacing the races and using emery cloth on the axles, thanks to guidance from CWF on here.

Al

The rear bearings were slightly rusted, so there was water intrusion, but nothing like the top/front bearings. I haven't come up with any good solution to keep the water out of the rear seal, other than keep it covered as much as possible.

I replaced all the races, bearings, and seals and cleaned up the shafts with emery cloth.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Has anyone installed grease fitting on the caps?...Something I have been considering in my 'old fart' years. 🤔

Bob
🇺🇸

[Al and Missy]

Bob, I thought about that. The catch is where does the displaced air and grease go? The pressure of injecting grease would either blow out the seal on one end or pop the cap on the other. I guess you could drill and tap the casting as far as possible from the cap end for the zerk and then drill the cap for a relief port that could be closed with a self-tapping screw and o-ring or one of those metal springy plugs.

Al

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

Bob, I thought about that. The catch is where does the displaced air and grease go? The pressure of injecting grease would either blow out the seal on one end or pop the cap on the other. I guess you could drill and tap the casting as far as possible from the cap end for the zerk and then drill the cap for a relief port that could be closed with a self-tapping screw and o-ring or one of those metal springy plugs.

Al

Well, in the past what I've done is drill a small pin hole, use a hand grease gun and pump until the grease looks clean, then cover the hole with yellow elephant snot.
I think 5200 would work well on the PPP bearing caps.

Bob
🇺🇸

[Planenut]

How tight should I tighten the nut when repacking the bearings?

Thanks,

[carl2591]

I was thinking the same thing.. drill and install zerk fitting on top of caps. on bottom drill a 1/8 bleed hole.. pump in grease till it comes out bleed hole.. no need to "elephant snot" as the hole is down..

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Well, in the past what I've done is drill a small pin hole, use a hand grease gun and pump until the grease looks clean, then cover the hole with yellow elephant snot.
I think 5200 would work well on the PPP bearing caps.

Bob
🇺🇸

[JFScheck]

Great minds think alike…

I have installed Zerk fittings on top with small holes (two) drilled in bottom.

Few shots synthetic grease every 2-3 months (just push the old greases out bottom two holes) - five years and bearings look good as new…

[FlyGirls]

Originally Posted by Planenut

How tight should I tighten the nut when repacking the bearings?

Thanks,

Planenut, did you ever find an answer to your question?
Molly

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Planenut

How tight should I tighten the nut when repacking the bearings?



Thanks,

I had a Hensley for about 8 years,which I bought very used. I now have a propride. I am of the belief that the bearings should be somewhat tighter than you would set an old automotive wheel bearing. The hitch bearings don't spin at speed, have no heat buildup (due to speed and brakes). My concern with having too much clearance is with edge loading the rollers with the wd and tongue weight always applying a pretty substantial side load to the bearing.
I adjust them down like a car, but then do not back them off. I do it by feel, but I'd say 1 to 2 foot pounds.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Airstream Forums mobile app

[dznf0g]

In addition to the above, after reading the whole thread, here are a couple other notes.

Clean around the top cap edges very well with brakeclean and apply a bead of sealer. I use parbond.
Every time you go to hitch up, swing the head through its entire arc of motion. This not only gives you a feel if there are any gross bearing condition issues, but also redistributes the grease onto the spring bar contact areas with the bushings.
Take a quick look at the top seals on the rear lower head half. If there is any hint of a grease film, the seals are at least suspect.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Airstream Forums mobile app

[FlyGirls]

Bought 4 new dust caps from ProPride. The lower caps went in fine but didn't seat all the way to the dome lip. Nearly 1/4 inch still exposed. Brent at ProPride indicated that was normal. The top bearing dust caps just didn't want to go in at all. After hours of trying to finesse and then use more forceful attempts, I reluctantly pulled out my Dremel with sander and lightly sanded the outer edge of the 2 remaining caps. Went very carefully but FINALLY got these caps to hammer in evenly and seat nearly all the way down.
I've seen some use RTV, liquid electrical tape or parbond to seal around these caps. I plan to use 221 Sikaflex sealant/adhesive. Not sure how that will go, but either way, I'll probably be popping the caps in a year or 2 to check on the condition of the grease and bearings.
Molly

[greghoro]

Before I answer the torque question, I want to make you aware that there are two sources I found helpful in self repair. One is a

YouTube video

showing a new hitch being assembled (no narration, some steps left out). The other is a .pdf file (which you have to request from ProPride) with a pair of diagrams of the parts in order of assembly; one next to the spindle and the other mounted on the spindle.

I spoke with ProPride today and there is no specific torque for the spindle nuts. The assembly video shows them using an air tool to install the nut and then a pair of channel locks to back off the nut so the cotter pin can be installed. The air tool is used to set the bearing in place, which they kind of do by feel (much like most of our Airstream is assembled). Basically want to tighten the nut until all play is removed and then back off the nut to the point where the cotter pin can be installed. Similar to installing the nut on a vehicle or trailer wheel bearing.


The bottom nut measures 1 15/32" across flats. Don't remove the top nut to confirm.





Greg