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Old 03-05-2017, 09:39 PM   #21
cwf
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Carl,
I think you got a deal there! Get the parts, a strong buddy who likes beer, his/her favorite beer. .. and recondition it.


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Originally Posted by carl2591 View Post
great thread on the hitch. Guess i need to check mine as, like others, got it used and other than the serial number I have no idea how old the product.

When i asked the manf about the number I was told the number as not in the data base as I appeared to be older than 10yr old, this was 2015.

my number 223P100148PP if anyone has a clue let me know.. buy the way I paid $500 for it in feb of 2015.
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Old 03-26-2020, 12:47 PM   #22
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I just went through replacing the terribly rusted bearings in my P3. Sean did offer to rebuild the hitch, but I needed to pay shipping to get it there and back or drive it to Sean, which I didn't want to do either. The least expensive route was to order the bearing kit from Sean and do the work myself. My trailer virtually never sits outside when it's not in use and I cover the hitch while we are camping. There were a few days last year where we had to drive in the rain, well you can see the results in my video. I also found a cheap and easy way to keep the water out of the bearings. Video here: https://rvthe.us

Wayne
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Old 03-26-2020, 01:51 PM   #23
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Slitting the cap is a 'trick' used to easily install a cap that is a little too large...as the OP learned, not a good trick.
I have even seen OEM caps with a slit, avoid.

Our Arrow was purchased in '07, maintenance every other year...NPF.👍
Covered Winter & Summer...cheep protection.

Bob
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Old 03-26-2020, 01:59 PM   #24
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What did you do, if anything, about the top of the "axles" on the rear bearings? They have just an exposed seal. Did you not have rust in that cavity?

Asking because I bought a used hitch and all 8 bearings were rusted. Water found its way into the lower "axle" bearings as well as the top.

Did you have to do anything about the shafts and races? I ended up replacing the races and using emery cloth on the axles, thanks to guidance from CWF on here.

My solution was to pack the body cavities as best I could with grease. It's been 2 or 3 years now and the hitch is still smooth as glass.

Al
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Old 03-26-2020, 02:29 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
What did you do, if anything, about the top of the "axles" on the rear bearings? They have just an exposed seal. Did you not have rust in that cavity?

Asking because I bought a used hitch and all 8 bearings were rusted. Water found its way into the lower "axle" bearings as well as the top.

Did you have to do anything about the shafts and races? I ended up replacing the races and using emery cloth on the axles, thanks to guidance from CWF on here.

Al
The rear bearings were slightly rusted, so there was water intrusion, but nothing like the top/front bearings. I haven't come up with any good solution to keep the water out of the rear seal, other than keep it covered as much as possible.

I replaced all the races, bearings, and seals and cleaned up the shafts with emery cloth.
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Old 03-26-2020, 02:35 PM   #26
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Has anyone installed grease fitting on the caps?...Something I have been considering in my 'old fart' years. 🤔

Bob
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Old 03-26-2020, 02:46 PM   #27
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Bob, I thought about that. The catch is where does the displaced air and grease go? The pressure of injecting grease would either blow out the seal on one end or pop the cap on the other. I guess you could drill and tap the casting as far as possible from the cap end for the zerk and then drill the cap for a relief port that could be closed with a self-tapping screw and o-ring or one of those metal springy plugs.

Al
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Old 03-26-2020, 05:22 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
Bob, I thought about that. The catch is where does the displaced air and grease go? The pressure of injecting grease would either blow out the seal on one end or pop the cap on the other. I guess you could drill and tap the casting as far as possible from the cap end for the zerk and then drill the cap for a relief port that could be closed with a self-tapping screw and o-ring or one of those metal springy plugs.

Al
Well, in the past what I've done is drill a small pin hole, use a hand grease gun and pump until the grease looks clean, then cover the hole with yellow elephant snot.
I think 5200 would work well on the PPP bearing caps.

Bob
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