Proper sized Reese bar to be used with 62 Safari

[surfpod]

HI,
I have a Reese Weight Distribution system on my 1962 Safari.
I have a set of 550lb. bars.
I also have a set of 750lb. bars.
I am trying to find out how to calculate which bar is best to use with my 2004 Ford E150 Van.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Andy543]

An E-150 should easily be able to tow a 62 Safari without a weight distribution hitch. A WD hitch will not get you any benefit with this rig.

[AldeanFan]

You’ll need to determine your tongue weight and then choose the bars that are closest to that.
However I would expect either set is likely to work ok with a ‘62 trailer as the weights are generally less than modern trailers.

Weigh the tongue with the trailer loaded for travel.
I bought a cheap tongue scale but you can also use a bathroom scale with a 2x4 as a lever and some blocks of wood and simple math.
Lots of posts online about how to measure tongue weight this way so I won’t reiterate that here.

[rideair]

Surfpod,

If memory is correct, the tongue weight on that trailer is about 400lbs, so the 550's would be more than enough. Do not latch them up tight, just enough to where the chains have no chance of falling off, and apply enough pressure to bring the unit back level.

Enjoy,

[AlbertF]

Paul is correct; the old weight list says 3050 lbs empty, with a tongue weight of 420.

https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...ts-guide-7.pdf

I'd try both sets, and see which is better. You want a good hitch setup that optimizes control and minimizes porpoising.

Do some research into hitch setup. There's a learning curve involved, but worth it when you get it right.

This is the best information that I'm aware of:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrgCNR6HvRI

[overlander64]

Greetings Surfpod!

Originally Posted by surfpod

HI,
I have a Reese Weight Distribution system on my 1962 Safari.
I have a set of 550lb. bars.
I also have a set of 750lb. bars.
I am trying to find out how to calculate which bar is best to use with my 2004 Ford E150 Van.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My suggestions are based upon what a Reese product Technician taught me at the 1998 WBCCI International Rally in Boise, Idaho. I was having trouble with the Reese Strait Line Hitch with Dual Cam Sway Control on my 1964 Overlander Land Yacht International (measured loaded hitch weight of 695 pounds at the time). At the time, I was towing with what was my most hated tow vehicle that was traded upon my return home, a 1995 Chevrolet K1500 extended cab pickup with every available option including all towing options that I had purchased new in 1995 because everyone said you need a truck to tow a 26 foot Airstream (it was my last pickup). It was beating me up on the highway as well as my Overlander. While the overly stiff springing of the pickup was part of the issue, my local hitch specialist had installed the Strait Line Hitch with 1,000 pound bars which this Technician said were far too much for the hitch weight involved and the tow vehicle that I had. He switched out my 1,000 pound bars for 600 pound bars (compensating for the stiff truck suspension) allowing for the hitch to be adjusted to take full advantage of the Dual Cam Sway Control.

I think the answer to your question is definitely the lighter bars if you have Dual Cam Sway Control, but if not, you can likely use either one to achieve the same weight distribution.

This is a photo of the Strait Line Hitch with Dual Cam Sway Control as setup on my 1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre with 1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible as tow vehicle. The weight distribution bars are rated at 500 pounds and the loaded hitch weight is usually between 525 and 550 pounds.



Good luck with your hitch setup!

Kevin

[sfranklin]

550 is more than enough. Though you may not need WD for that low of a hitch weight, if you incorporate non-friction sway control, you will need the bars.

[surfpod]

Thanks very much for all feedback. I have 2 60's Safaris and they both came with the Reese weight distribution system. I will be using the 550lb.bar this coming week. This trailer is pretty much original, less the galvanized water tank.

[Bobbo]

Originally Posted by Andy543

An E-150 should easily be able to tow a 62 Safari without a weight distribution hitch. A WD hitch will not get you any benefit with this rig.

Except proactive sway control, if you get a hitch with that built in. Proactive sway control should be used on every TT. I use a Reese Strait-Line w/Dual Cam on my rig even though I have an F-350. I don't really need weight distribution, but I still need the proactive sway control.

[Andy543]

Originally Posted by Bobbo

Except proactive sway control, if you get a hitch with that built in. Proactive sway control should be used on every TT. I use a Reese Strait-Line w/Dual Cam on my rig even though I have an F-350. I don't really need weight distribution, but I still need the proactive sway control.

I don't need sway control. I tow my FC 28 on the ball with a Ram 2500. I have never felt even a smidgen of sway. I'm sure you won't feel any with your F-350 either. Try it. You'll like it.

[Bobbo]

Originally Posted by Andy543

I don't need sway control. I tow my FC 28 on the ball with a Ram 2500. I have never felt even a smidgen of sway. I'm sure you won't feel any with your F-350 either. Try it. You'll like it.

You have either been lucky, you drive below the critical speed needed for sway, or you are very good at trailer loading. Sway has absolutely nothing to do with the size of the tow vehicle. An improperly loaded trailer WILL sway if it is towed fast enough and something inititates sway. Sway is the oscillation of the trailer back and forth pivoting on the ball. That is ALL that sway is. Since all vehicles have the same ball, ALL vehicles have the same sway potential.

I prefer not to trust to luck, so I will continue to use, and recommend, proactive sway control of some kind.

[Andy543]

Originally Posted by Bobbo

You have either been lucky, you drive below the critical speed needed for sway, or you are very good at trailer loading. Sway has absolutely nothing to do with the size of the tow vehicle. An improperly loaded trailer WILL sway if it is towed fast enough and something inititates sway. Sway is the oscillation of the trailer back and forth pivoting on the ball. That is ALL that sway is. Since all vehicles have the same ball, ALL vehicles have the same sway potential.

I prefer not to trust to luck, so I will continue to use, and recommend, proactive sway control of some kind.

Sway in itself is not dangerous. I'm sure you have seen large construction vehicles towing small, badly loaded trailers that swing back and forth continuously without the driver even knowing it. The question to ask is, can the swaying trailer upset the tow vehicle. Here, size matters. A small trailer will not cause a large tow vehicle to jackknife, no matter how violently it is swaying.

Now, suppose you do have a swaying trailer that is pushing the back of the tow vehicle around. What is the better solution, stopping and rearranging your load so that the trailer won't sway, getting a larger tow vehicle that won't be pushed around, or simply covering up the sway with an expensive anti-sway hitch?

[Bobbo]

Originally Posted by Andy543

Sway in itself is not dangerous.

Sway, in itself, is dangerous. It can destabilize the tow vehicle. Some have been rolled over. Sway, in itself, is dangerous. A car trying to pass you in the next lane would not appreciate being hit by your trailer swaying into and out of their lane.

I am not nearly irresponsible enough to risk towing without proactive sway control. Sway is completely independent of the vehicle the trailer is attached to since sway is simply the oscillation of the trailer back and forth pivoting on the ball. Sway can happen to anyone. Sway is dangerous to the vehicle towing the trailer, and every vehicle either passing or being passed by the swaying trailer.

Originally Posted by Andy543

Now, suppose you do have a swaying trailer that is pushing the back of the tow vehicle around. What is the better solution, stopping and rearranging your load so that the trailer won't sway, getting a larger tow vehicle that won't be pushed around, or simply covering up the sway with an expensive anti-sway hitch?

Simple. The "better solution" is to use every tool available to prevent sway. A proactive sway control is a HUGE advantage since it doesn't "cover up sway", it prevents it.

[Andy543]

Originally Posted by Bobbo

Sway, in itself, is dangerous. It can destabilize the tow vehicle. Some have been rolled over. Sway, in itself, is dangerous. A car trying to pass you in the next lane would not appreciate being hit by your trailer swaying into and out of their lane.

I am not nearly irresponsible enough to risk towing without proactive sway control. Sway is completely independent of the vehicle the trailer is attached to since sway is simply the oscillation of the trailer back and forth pivoting on the ball. Sway can happen to anyone. Sway is dangerous to the vehicle towing the trailer, and every vehicle either passing or being passed by the swaying trailer.


Simple. The "better solution" is to use every tool available to prevent sway. A proactive sway control is a HUGE advantage since it doesn't "cover up sway", it prevents it.

The problem is, the sway control hitch helps to destabilize the tow vehicle. It extends the distance from the axle to the tow ball, giving the trailer more leverage over the tow vehicle, and it adds weight to the hitch point, adding more lateral g-force to the tow vehicle when going around a turn. This can easily be confirmed by performing a skid pad test on the rig. A skid pad test consists of driving the rig around a fixed circle and measuring the speed at which it can no longer hold on to the circle. Then the g-force is calculated. A rig with a sway control hitch will spin out at a lower speed than one towing with a simple ball mount. The problem becomes even worse if weight distribution is applied. In other words, aside from comfort when towing in a straight line, there are only negative effects of towing with a WD/sway control hitch. In the worst case, the hitch can cause a jackknife accident.

[Bobbo]

Originally Posted by Andy543

The problem is, the sway control hitch helps to destabilize the tow vehicle.

Completely false. The WD/sway control hitch adds stability to the tow vehicle/trailer.

Originally Posted by Andy543

It extends the distance from the axle to the tow ball, giving the trailer more leverage over the tow vehicle,

6 inches is insignificant.

Originally Posted by Andy543

and it adds weight to the hitch point,

An insignificant amount of weight.

Originally Posted by Andy543

adding more lateral g-force to the tow vehicle when going around a turn.

Which the vehicle is designed to handle. No problem.

Originally Posted by Andy543

This can easily be confirmed by performing a skid pad test on the rig. A skid pad test consists of driving the rig around a fixed circle and measuring the speed at which it can no longer hold on to the circle. Then the g-force is calculated. A rig with a sway control hitch will spin out at a lower speed than one towing with a simple ball mount.

Know the limitations of your rig. Drive at a safe speed. Don't do donuts.

Originally Posted by Andy543

The problem becomes even worse if weight distribution is applied.

What problem? So far I have only seen a problem in your imagination.

Originally Posted by Andy543

In other words, aside from comfort when towing in a straight line, there are only negative effects of towing with a WD/sway control hitch.

Except for the proactive sway control. EVERYBODY should have proactive sway control regardless of towing on the ball or with WD.

Originally Posted by Andy543

In the worst case, the hitch can cause a jackknife accident.

Nonsense. The hitch can not cause any kind of accident. An inexperienced driver can though.