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Old 08-29-2016, 01:57 PM   #21
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1970 27' Overlander
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Fillmore , USA
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We have a parkit 360

Hi there,

We bought our ParkIt a couple years ago and have since revamped our concrete parking area, so we don't need the dolly anymore, I suppose we will sell it. My husband bought it and knows all the particulars. I think he bought the 9000lb model.

It works. It's not an elegant dolly, you can't just hold it with one hand and whistle, but it works. I wish it had a better handle for steering. Just a single length of pipe, like a single handlebar on a bike. He bought a battery for it and a ball, 2", I think. We had a significant slope up to the parking spot and it handled the last 15ft or so of maneuvering. The on-off cycle was not an issue. If you want more info please ask and I will type a more comprehensive and salient post in conjunction with spouse. I'm the online typer in the family.

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Originally Posted by cactusjk View Post
I called Parkit and they recommended against the EZ connect for larger trailers. We have a FC 23D. I guess I am struggling with how cumbersome it looks to attach to the ball and without the EZ connect the tires limiting the turning radius. Also sounds like 5 minutes run/5 minutes off duty cycle. Overall a much less expensive way to go than Airtug but do you sacrifice too much? Any recent feedback on Parkit 360 for Airstreams would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 08-30-2016, 08:01 AM   #22
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dhroberts, there is no special connection needed. just clip one to a positive and one to a negative, that is it. If you ordered your Parkit360 with the brake control plugin you can wire the power input leads to the plugin on the unit. That way you will not need the separate wires. When you plug your trailer into it the battery will be connected through the wires normally used by your tow vehicle to charges the trailer batteries. It works great.
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:10 AM   #23
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So do you mind sharing what was your total cost was and have you tried it on grass?
😀
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie View Post
I finally broke down and picked one of these bad boys up last year:

P360XL 11000lbs-4989kgs

It's not an inexpensive tool-- by any means, but one that really can make getting the RV in and out of tight spots a breeze compared to navigating an 18' tow vehicle to do the same task.

My main need for this was getting the trailer in and out of storage, which was extremely tight (read a few inches of clearance on either side of the trailer-- if that much). My reasoning was, the cost of this unit would be very small in comparison to body damage on my Safari, along with the high probability of damage given the extreme tight entry door with each entry and exit needing to be perfect each time all while trying to assess the back of the trailer from some 35' from the driver's seat of the SUV with a slight grade involved.

This particular unit is far more than I currently need however, like the AirSafe hitch, I purchased a unit based on any possible future upgrades in trailer size, which would translate into more weight, opting to do this once vs two times.

The way I have mine configured is that it connects to the front batteries on the trailer, which means no additional battery or battery case is needed to power the dolly. You can get a battery case and such if needed, but since the trailer has two up front, I figured why not just use them instead. Works great!

The seven pin connector, connects directly to the unit and I have the ability to activate the trailer brakes while using this power dolly, which has been a really great thing to have on any type of grade!! This was an upgrade (read additional cost).

There are two issues though:

One is that the ball doesn't seat very well sometimes and I found that placing a paper towel over the ball before putting the tongue on it makes the connection a lot more rigid and less tiring to navigate the nearly 800+lb hitch weight around-- even though I've tightened it as they describe in their instructions.

Second is the tires. They tend to get in the way of the "A" frame when making more pronounced turns and it seems this recent accessory would solve that problem, but that is another $420:

EZ Connect by Parkit360

Though the second problem basically limits the turning radius of the trailer and I suspect a taller ball support might also solve this problem, the linked accessory might also make both issues go away completely....but by then you're talking a nearly $2k solution, though less costly than skin replacement, it's not a tool the average guy buys, but we all need our toys I suspect.

For those of you in the market for a power hitch, I have found this one very well built and a very useful tool to have, particularly if you are moving your trailer in some very tight spots. I find I can fairly easily move the trailer into positions where a tow vehicle may have been far more difficult or nearly impossible.

The cost however is VERY steep for the privilege of having this maneuverability, but after looking at what was out there, I simply decided to go with this brand/model and it has performed as expected. Not sure I'll plunk down another $420 for the accessory, but will continue to evaluate the usefulness of the power dolly and maybe if I win the lottery, pick it up.
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:02 AM   #24
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We have a storage garage and need to manuver the 19' and 23FB into 45'x18' space. I chose the Trailer Valet XL Dolly with Chain Drive, on sale from etrailer after watching their video review.

This works very well for our purpose and no motor to maintain or worry about. I have used the hand crank and the drill option. Both work.

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Old 09-27-2016, 10:48 AM   #25
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I've used mine on mostly hard surface, stone drive and concrete. There is a fairly good grade dropping it into the patio from the drive and it handles it well. It's a PITA to move the trailer around with it, nowhere near as elegant as they show in the videos, but like with anything else you get more proficient with use. I really like the fact that I'm not tethered to shore power. Where the trailer goes, so goes my power supply. I did opt for the longer connection cable. I'll try to post a pic of the drive, slope and final parked location. Not possible at all with a tow vehicle, no matter how good you may be.

Grass use? I don't have the upgraded tires. Before I put stone down I had partly grass and gravel in the transition space between the drive and the patio, it seemed to do well. No slips, slides or catastrophes. Of course level hard ground is optimal, but not always possible.

All in all, I like the fact that it can feed directly off the coaches 12v batteries. I connect mine in a similar fashion to how the Airstream connects so I use both batteries, and can get more than 5 mins of use. A lot of stop and starts due to really threading the needle in my case. If I had larger than a 27 footer, not sure I could do the same as I do now with my 25er in my current situation.

The unit came with a ball mount, that did not solve the issue of getting out of the way of the power hitch jack. Ironically, I found connecting directly to the mostly retracted hitch jack base, taking out the ball mount on the dolly solved a lot of my issues, however, getting the trailer off can be a somewhat tricky situation since the trailer is sitting on the power dolly from the hitch jack. I built a brace with a few 2x4s, raised the tongue, lower the "A" frame onto the brace and that gets me free of the dolly. I am pretty sure that accessory they sell would completely solve the issue and make uncoupling easier, sans the other accessory that bolts to the A frame. I just don't want more attached to the A frame cause water gets trapped and then another place to maintain to hold back rust. I just don't feel like paying more for accessories when I plunked down more than a 10 c-notes for the dolly itself. Who knows what I'll do long term, for now, the 3-4 uses I get per year hard to justify, but as I get older.........

It's funny, I moved to this house about a year ago, after my initial need for this getting in and out of my old storage place.... and there was a block party in my new to me neighborhood. Not hi, I'm so and so....first thing out of a number of my neighbor's mouths was:

"Hey you're they guy with that Airstream, I love that thing!"
"We just moved here too and when I saw your Airstream, I called my friend and said, my neighbor has one of those Airstreams...."
"How on Earth did you get that wedged in there like that with your truck?"

Neighbors like the RV so I can keep it on one of the patio areas on the property all summer with zero complaints (but a lot of tours-- some older guy, not a neighbor drove by and actually stopped and asked for a tour). This is mostly due to having the power dolly. I'm sure the neighbors and town would feel differently (as would I) if it were on the driveway in the open.

Anyway....great first world problems to have.....
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Old 09-28-2016, 06:00 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocco52 View Post
dhroberts, there is no special connection needed. just clip one to a positive and one to a negative, that is it. If you ordered your Parkit360 with the brake control plugin you can wire the power input leads to the plugin on the unit. That way you will not need the separate wires. When you plug your trailer into it the battery will be connected through the wires normally used by your tow vehicle to charges the trailer batteries. It works great.
A great idea! Thanks. I will try this weekend.
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Old 09-28-2016, 06:02 AM   #27
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I, too, use the Trailer Valet XL mover. I have used their products for about five years with no problems. I had their original model and then upgraded to the XL when I bought my new Airstream. It's easy to maneuver around corners and tight spaces. Great price and customer service too.
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Old 10-01-2016, 04:29 PM   #28
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I bought a homemade one from a guy who built one for himself and a friend but his friend backed out. It looks like a cross between the parkit360 and the one in the following link. He made it for about $400. Mine is terrific and easily moves my 25 built from a 1.2hp winch. We have low profile tires so the jack does not get in the way.


http://www.proud-canadian.com/wp-con...m_P1070121.jpg
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Old 10-01-2016, 09:03 PM   #29
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What is the cost of the Traxx dolly? Their site seems to indicate that there is only one model available for $1750.00.
Thanks,
Ken
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Old 01-14-2017, 10:53 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie View Post
I've used mine on mostly hard surface, stone drive and concrete. There is a fairly good grade dropping it into the patio from the drive and it handles it well. It's a PITA to move the trailer around with it, nowhere near as elegant as they show in the videos, but like with anything else you get more proficient with use. I really like the fact that I'm not tethered to shore power. Where the trailer goes, so goes my power supply. I did opt for the longer connection cable. I'll try to post a pic of the drive, slope and final parked location. Not possible at all with a tow vehicle, no matter how good you may be.
I don't mean to bother you, but I wonder if you would still consider taking this photo, as I have a small grade on my property too and I am wondering how this dolly might work for me. Thank you for considering.
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Old 05-11-2017, 10:33 AM   #31
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parkit360 BIG Waste of $ and time for me.

I ordered the parkit 360 force 10K (P360 HD B3) to maneuver my 2016 27' International Serenity in and out of our back parking spot (off our alley). I have a gravel lot so they told me I would need the Force 10K with the wider tires and that it would work but of course was more $ ($1730.00). My lot only has a slight grade. Well, my wife and I were pretty excited when it showed up until I tried it out. Every time I tried to push it back in place, the tires just slipped and bogged down in the gravel and the unit just pivoted into the gravel. I called customer service and they said I didn't have it hooked up properly so I tried it again (actually 4 times..) and finally video taped it not working and sent it to Jim (at customer service) to show him that I was in fact hooking it up properly. Jim, then wanted me to get additional jacks to set up under the airstream and hook up to the main front Jack instead of the hitch. I said I am not comfortable with that and that your company told me it would work the normal way. Long story short, they refunded me my money except for a $250.00 restocking fee! I told them that I would understand their fee if I decided I didn't want it or need it or changed my mind, but it was unfair for them to sell this to me (the more expensive one) saying it would work for my situation and then when it did not work as advertised charge me $250.00 to take it back. Not too mention the HUGE waste of time and hassle I have been through. I would never deal with this company again and now will fight it through my credit card company. Buyer Beware. I will try to post my video clip of the event soon.
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Old 05-11-2017, 12:36 PM   #32
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Thanks, I am in the market for one and will steer clear of the parkit360. Its ok it didn't work, but no way they should whack you $250. Totally unfair.
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Old 05-11-2017, 02:06 PM   #33
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I bought one and the unit just dug a nice hole in the gravel driveway. Waste of money. I suspect it will work on level pavement but not gravel with a slight slope.
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Old 06-24-2017, 01:32 AM   #34
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Parkit 360 10K model

Is there anyone wanting to sell a Parkit 360 10k?


Contact
Mike Comeaux
541408-3114
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Old 07-18-2017, 12:38 PM   #35
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I've had mine now for several years. Up very slight grade, down very slight grade, overall still very pleased with it. Finally broke down and stopped trying to use the hitch ball the sent, I just tug it around with the power hitch jack foot.

Love the integrated brake controller. Really does work well overall. I think I paid around $1500
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Old 03-15-2018, 01:19 PM   #36
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i went to the parkit360 factory and saw their operation.
I got the 5k model with fatter wider tires, the same price as the skinny tires.

They suggest fat tires if your trailer weight is a fraction on the dolly capacity. if you are close, go with skinnier tires.

why, the lighter tongue needs more surface area for traction
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Old 03-15-2018, 03:35 PM   #37
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here is a video off their site

https://youtu.be/WFIr-9mBVks

note to use it on a hill, grass or sand, we also use a 2 foot by 4 foot piece of chipboard underneath. this is so the wheels dont sink it.. we got ours at a big box store and it has plastic crosshatch underneath ie meant for basement flooring or atop cement

this is needed for any type of mover
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Old 03-16-2018, 12:20 AM   #38
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From page #1. post #7.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, for these reasons, I chose the PowerMover. Disadvantages are that you have to move the pivot from trailer to trailer if you are moving more than one or have a trailer repair business. I also connected the 12 volt and brake control to feed through the seven pin connector instead of with alligator clips o my battery.
.

Hi, my new house is just as hard if not harder to back my trailer in place because I can't back straight in. Now with white painted lines and a back up camera on my trailer. I'm able to park it without any assistance from my wife. I think I'll adapt a small snow plow on the front of my Power Mover. Or maybe sell it?????
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