Old style Reese Dual cam help???

[Pacerized]

Last year I purchased a new Reese round bar hitch with the integrated cam WD bars that are made to add the dual cam system. I found a great deal on a new set of anti sway cams but they're the old style that requires U bolts to attach to the frame. The instruction sheet that came from Reese offers very poor instructions. I found the following link from Reese that is nothing but the same set of poor instructions. You can't even tell the right side from the left from the instructions. http://65.196.229.70/pdf/N26001.pdf
Anything else I've been able to find online only shows instructions for the new style dual cams which are considerably different. I've searched through the forum going back 15 pages to no avail. I think I have these figured out but I'd like to be certain. Does anyone else have the old style Dual cams (part 26001) installed and if so could you share some pictures? I'm specifically confused on how the bend in the WD bars ride on the cam arm. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks: Charlie

[Aage]

Not sure what you're looking for here. The image in the attachment is how they work, but I will admit that they make it sound more complicated than it is.

Put it together as they describe, making adjustments so it fits well around your tanks etc on yout A frame, then adjust the stirrup so that it's vertical when all is put together.

I had to jack up the vehicle to be able to put the bars on, maybe that is your difficulty?

Sorry, no pics of that, and it's a ways from where I am now.

[Mikethefixit]

I think I have the instruction sheet for the Reese Old Style Dual Cam. This is what I run behind my F350. The bars are 1" square at the base,just behind the trunion. These are the 550 lb bars.I really think thats all you need. I run 6 chain links under tention and get a great ride.
I am not sure where those instructions are but I will look for them for you.
The system is easy assembled. Ubolts hold the brackets just to the rear of the coupler.The winch brackets are mounted on the A frame 1 on each side.The trunions go into the hitch head and the palm shaped hands are on the pads below the winches.
I hope Im about to find the diagram.

[Aage]

ps: you say you can't tell right from left from the instructions: there is a picture of one cam arm that's clearly labelled "right hand". That's right hand when you are facing towards the tow vehicle, with your back to the trailer, of course.

There IS NO RIGHT OR LEFT to the BARS themselves. They are ambidextrous, to coin a phrase: either bar works on either side.

Now, my bars are the 1,000 lbs ones, I have a different set-up than Mike or you, my TV is a Ford Freestar, so more transfer is necessary.

[Mikethefixit]

Aage.
Would you believe I had never seen my F350 or the Airstream when I bought that set up. I really bought it for a 24 box trailer I never took delivery of.LONG STORY.
I'm not sure What a Free Star is, but Im sure it works for you. Every setup is an individual,seems to me,No 2 are setup alike, I know mine could not be more perfect.
Works for me.

[Aage]

OK, you made me remember that I DO have a photo that shows the hitch, from a distance though.

I wanted to show you the Freestar, its a van, Mike. You can sorta see the hitch, Pacerized. Blow it up a bit more if you like, that may help.

Here's a photo I took outside the Jackson Center service building:

Click on the photo to make it bigger, then click once more to see an even Bigger version.

[ticki2]

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ies-62009.html
Some good pictures here. page 2 . One question , I thought the dual cam came with the square bars , you mention round bars? The curved end of the weight bar should fit centered on the dual cam saddle when the TV and trailer are in a straight line and the chain is perpendicular to the A frame.

[Ganglin]

Interesting little article that may help you...

Tuning a Reese Hitch

[overlander63]

I don't think the old style saddles can be used with the new style bars.

[Aage]

Originally Posted by Aage

I had to jack up the vehicle to be able to put the bars on,

HOLD ON A SECOND: I need to clarify this, sorry, my feeble memory strikes again!

To be able to get the WD bars on, I had to raise the A frame using the Airstream's electric jack, after connecting the TT and the TV together.

It has to be raised to the point where it reduces the loading on the TV's suspension, i.e. raise the body of the tow vehicle somewhat.

At no point did I use a jack to raise the TV.

It's pretty clear how far you need to raise things when you do it. On my rig, the WD bars won't go on until the right height is acheived.

Sorry for the earlier fuzziness.

[Pacerized]

Thanks to everyone who replied. The info and links have been very helpful. My confusion was with the instructions not specifying which side of the cam head would face the bend in the WD bars. It seemed to make more sense that the curved part of the cam head would fit into the the curve of the WD bar. When I face the cams as shown in the instructions the flat part of the cam head actually fits against the WD bar instead. Upon reviewing this further and comparing to the pics in the link showing the airstream hook up with the trunion bars this now appears to make sense.
Regarding my using the old style cams with the new style WD bars, the instructions specify that this is o.k, I just don't need to use the bolt on adapters for the WD bars.
I think I have this figured out now so I'm going to attempt to install these on Sunday, wish me luck.


Charlie

[richinny]

good luck! and remember that these things are under great pressure when loaded. watch for something snapping or shifting. keep your arms clear of the bar you use to hook up the chains that connect to the arms. if it flips down and hits your wrist, you may end up wearing a wrist cast ;-)

[overlander64]

Greetings Charlie!

Originally Posted by Pacerized

Last year I purchased a new Reese round bar hitch with the integrated cam WD bars that are made to add the dual cam system. I found a great deal on a new set of anti sway cams but they're the old style that requires U bolts to attach to the frame. The instruction sheet that came from Reese offers very poor instructions. I found the following link from Reese that is nothing but the same set of poor instructions. You can't even tell the right side from the left from the instructions. http://65.196.229.70/pdf/N26001.pdf
Anything else I've been able to find online only shows instructions for the new style dual cams which are considerably different. I've searched through the forum going back 15 pages to no avail. I think I have these figured out but I'd like to be certain. Does anyone else have the old style Dual cams (part 26001) installed and if so could you share some pictures? I'm specifically confused on how the bend in the WD bars ride on the cam arm. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks: Charlie

I concur the Reese instructions for the classic Dual Cam installation are a bit sketchy. I was fortunate to have a friend who was able to point out the finer points of the installation. The photos below are of the installation on my Cadillac Eldorado/Minuet 6.0 Metre combination:



The photo above shows the relationship of the cam to saddle before the snap-up bracket is locked.



The photo above shows the relationship of the cam to saddle prior to raising the chain bracket.



The photo above shows all components connected ready to attach safety chains and raise the tongue jack.

I hope that these photos help to show the relationship about which you are inquiring.

Good luck with your installation!

Kevin

[Pacerized]

Those are excellent pictures Kevin. Thank for posting them. It appears that the shape of the saddle portion of the cam on yours is a little different then mine but the concept is the same. Perhaps the design changed in a final version of the old style cams before they were replaced by the new style cam. From what I can see I think I can get these on this Sun. in a short time. Then I only need to spend 20-30 hours adjusting the new setup so it rides as well as it did before I added the cams.
Charlie

[overlander64]

Greetings Charlie!

Originally Posted by Pacerized

Those are excellent pictures Kevin. Thank for posting them. It appears that the shape of the saddle portion of the cam on yours is a little different then mine but the concept is the same. Perhaps the design changed in a final version of the old style cams before they were replaced by the new style cam. From what I can see I think I can get these on this Sun. in a short time. Then I only need to spend 20-30 hours adjusting the new setup so it rides as well as it did before I added the cams.
Charlie

I forgot to mention in my earlier post that the classic Dual Cam Sway Control works with the new style weight distribution spring bars. It took me some time to get to the bottom of the nuances of setting the bars. What I learned is that it is imperative that the deepest part of "hook" on the end of the bar is centered in over the cam when the rig is in straight line. I use the new bars with the "hook" when towing my '64 Overlander with my '75 Cadillac Eldorado.

Another consideration when setting up your hitch is the weight rating of the spring bars in relation to the tow vehicle being utilized. With my Overlander as an example, it requires 800 pound spring bars when towed by the Cadillac or 600 pound bars when towed with my '99 K2500 Suburban with its much heavier suspension (the tongue weight on the loaded coach is usually between 725 and 750 pounds). The spring bars need to have visible deflection if the Dual Cam System is to work at its optimum level.

Good luck with your set-up!

Kevin

[Pacerized]

I thought I'd update everyone on the Dual Cam setup. I managed to get everything connected on Sun. before I did the annual spring polish and coat of liquid glass. I ran out of time to hook up and get the adjustments done but went about that part of it today. It's a real pain getting the cams exactly where you want them so the saddle is right in the middle of the hook in the WD bar when it's straight but at least it only has to be done one time. I took it for a test run to an empty parking lot and had a fellow local Airstreamer named Bruce pull in to check out the Airstream. He just happened to have the exact same old style dual cam setup on his Airstream and helped me with the final adjustments. What a stroke of luck, I was very thankful.
Unfortunately I picked up another project which I have a thread about in the refrigerator section. When I de-winterized I found that my old fridge had a leak so I'll be replacing that this coming Sun. before we go on our first out to Arches NP at the end of next week. I seem to somehow find a way to put between $1,000 to $2,000 in her every year so I hope this is the end of major expenses for this year.
Thanks again to everyone for their help on this.
Charlie

[Aage]

Glad to hear you are making progress with the WD system.

You may know this already, but many of the old fridges can be made "new" again by getting a refurb kit. This is composed of a new cooling system. Not cheap, but a third to half of a new one, and easier (and cheaper) to ship... These guys make them, for one.

[Pacerized]

Originally Posted by Aage

Glad to hear you are making progress with the WD system.

You may know this already, but many of the old fridges can be made "new" again by getting a refurb kit. This is composed of a new cooling system. Not cheap, but a third to half of a new one, and easier (and cheaper) to ship... These guys make them, for one.

Thanks for the link but the best price I've found new is $728 with delivery.
The best price I've found for a core is for $480 with delivery and that's after I return the core. Since my fridge box has a few minor issues I've decided to go with the new one.

[Aage]

That's a heck of a good price for a new refer! Congratulations!