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09-05-2018, 09:50 PM
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#21
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4 Rivet Member
1961 22' Safari
Union
, Oregon
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 477
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Another vote for the ziplock bag. I just lay the whole bag over the ball, making it a double layer. Been doing that for years with good results and no greasy mess.
Sam
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09-08-2018, 06:28 AM
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#22
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Rivet Master
2024 23' International
South of Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 682
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Some FREE advice on this from someone who's towed big things and small things for years. Some commercial and some non commercial....
1 Make sure the trailer is chocked effectively !
If you are married or have a travel partner with you, or even if you dont and need to ask a neighbor for help.. If it wont come off the hitch ball, have someone sit in the tow vehicle with it in neutral, running, with the E-brake OFF and foot on the brake pedal. As the jack is raised, they can let off the brake and allow the combination to move sightly and it may come unconnected easier. The trailer should not move since it's chocked. Theres almost always play in the hitch receiver and the shank. This may be all that is holding it together due to the weight.
They can sit there and apply the brakes if/when it lets go and starts to move. Sometimes this is all you need for it to uncouple because as was already said, theres some manual friction with things connected. Also, use your foot/heel and kick the hitch mount a bit to wiggle it free. Just dont slip and fall down. Sometimes put it in reverse, and the movement will break it free. The vehicle does not need to move.
( Grease that ball better if this is happening )
---LEAVE THE TOW CHAINS CONNECTED---- This will 'catch' the trailer if it begins to roll unexpectedly, especially if you forgot to chock the trailer wheels, which you should not have. In any case, if you get into the habit of not removing the chains right away, the trailer will not roll down a hill into a ditch if its still chained up.
Remember if you are not on a level surface it may not be possible to un hitch if your hitch ball is oriented at a high angle unless you have a block of wood under the trailer jack. It wont go up high enough sometimes.
If you have no plans to drive the tow vehicle anywhere, leave it connected if your spot has the room and is a level parking spot. The trailer should be pretty level anyway and it being 'perfect' is unnecessary.
When you are disconnecting everything, dont be in a hurry to drive away. Leaving something connected and yanking on it can break things.
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09-09-2018, 06:08 PM
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#23
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1 Rivet Member
2016 28' International
Kerrville
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 12
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Gravity Will Win in the End
I had the same problem until a long time Airstream owner told me gravity will win in the end. Now I just keep extending and slightly lifting the back of the tow vehicle. Within seconds it always lets go. I should add that I also lubricated the inside of the ball socket.
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09-09-2018, 06:10 PM
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#24
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Rivet Master
2024 23' International
South of Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ELSheffer
I had the same problem until a long time Airstream owner told me gravity will win in the end. Now I just keep extending and slightly lifting the back of the tow vehicle. Within seconds it always lets go. I should add that I also lubricated the inside of the ball socket.
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THat and you can stand on the bumper, too to help it let go.
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09-09-2018, 06:31 PM
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#25
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Rivet Master
1971 25' Tradewind
1993 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Estancia
, New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 7,743
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Still have the original coupler on my 71. Often the release lever is stiff. A quick solution is to use the spring bar from the WD hitch and deliver a few well placed taps until the release latch stands vertically on it's own.
Has anyone rebuilt their coupler?
__________________
Sail on silver girl. Sail on by. Your time has come to shine.
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09-09-2018, 07:06 PM
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#26
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2 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
Palmyra
, Virginia
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 68
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Couple of things.
1) I prefer using a dry lube for the coupler as it doesn't pick up dirt and grit making it a nice grinding compound or jamming up the coupler mechanicals. The ones I use also are rust inhibitors which helps control another factor.
2) upon disconnect a tow ball cover goes on to protect ball, lube, hands and clothing from any lube than might rub off.
3) I prefer to set the front chocks pull forward slightly and set rear chocks then release TV pressure, this insures the chocks are under pressure/load and are far less likely to slip
4) If you know where the neutral height of your hitch it, jack up just about an inch above that putting a minor separation load on the coupling and ease forward just a hair and ball should come free but not violently.
5) Check operation of coupling BEFORE you hook up. If anything is rusty, binding, jammed, now is the time to fix it, check a couple of days ahead if at all possible. a smooth operating coupler will all but eliminate this issue in the first place.
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09-10-2018, 06:51 AM
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#27
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New Member
Fort Garland
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 1
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Along with the mentioned glaze of grease and securely chocking the wheels, on my 75 with the original Marvel coupler, I find that if I hold just slight pressure on the release lever as I am raising the trailer (electric jack) it releases and lifts off smoothly off the ball.
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10-18-2018, 08:52 PM
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#28
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Rivet Master
2022 25' Flying Cloud
NCR
, Ontario
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 3,103
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good posts here from
Andy Thompson from CANAM
he really knows this area well
https://www.canamrv.ca/blog/category/hitch-hints/
i am just a happy customer
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01-19-2019, 11:51 AM
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#29
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New Member
1984 31' Sovereign
CROSS PLAINS
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejami5
Agree with Mollysdad. I also now use white lithium grease (spray). I've seen others use some type of black goo out of a can and applying with a paint brush (one fellow said it's all around 'grease' he buys from the auto parts store). Still haven't figured out how to get my clothes clean. Am now searching the internet for a hitch grip to see if I really want yet another tool to cart around.
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CARBURETOR CLEANER to get grease/ink out of your clothes. Spray in on DRY clothes, work a little with your finger then immediately apply some BLUE DAWN dish soap, work with finger, then add a little water...then more. Wash as usual after.
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01-19-2019, 12:57 PM
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#30
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Rivet Master
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Tampa
, Florida
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 7,654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ejami5
Am now searching the internet for a hitch grip to see if I really want yet another tool to cart around.
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You do.
The hitch grip. Not too pricey, the handle forward helps balance the load, and your hands stay relatively clean.
If I was asked to redesign it, I'd make it a bit wider. I find if your hitch is laying on it's side, you can't pick it up.
Also I'm paranoid about dropping it on my foot. Stay clear.
(although I've never dropped it.)
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01-19-2019, 03:21 PM
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#31
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Rivet Master
2024 23' International
South of Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 682
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IMO dry lube is not thick enough and can wash away.
Bearing axle grease will not run or wash off.
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01-19-2019, 10:42 PM
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#32
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Rivet Master
2022 25' Flying Cloud
NCR
, Ontario
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 3,103
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use white lithium grease with gloves
the stuff that look like cream and not the spray as it stays on longer
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01-20-2019, 07:35 AM
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#33
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Trailer Sold, Waving
2019 26' Flying Cloud
Stettler
, Alberta
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,032
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My hitch grip consists of a white plastic garbage bag wrapped around the hitch. Pull the pin, pull the hitch, put it on the ground, lower the tailgate, put it in the back of the truck.
__________________
2015 Chevrolet Silverado 2500
2019 Airstream Flying Cloud 26RBQ
WBCCI #6679
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