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Old 09-05-2018, 09:50 PM   #21
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1961 22' Safari
Union , Oregon
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Another vote for the ziplock bag. I just lay the whole bag over the ball, making it a double layer. Been doing that for years with good results and no greasy mess.

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Old 09-08-2018, 06:28 AM   #22
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Some FREE advice on this from someone who's towed big things and small things for years. Some commercial and some non commercial....

1 Make sure the trailer is chocked effectively !

If you are married or have a travel partner with you, or even if you dont and need to ask a neighbor for help.. If it wont come off the hitch ball, have someone sit in the tow vehicle with it in neutral, running, with the E-brake OFF and foot on the brake pedal. As the jack is raised, they can let off the brake and allow the combination to move sightly and it may come unconnected easier. The trailer should not move since it's chocked. Theres almost always play in the hitch receiver and the shank. This may be all that is holding it together due to the weight.

They can sit there and apply the brakes if/when it lets go and starts to move. Sometimes this is all you need for it to uncouple because as was already said, theres some manual friction with things connected. Also, use your foot/heel and kick the hitch mount a bit to wiggle it free. Just dont slip and fall down. Sometimes put it in reverse, and the movement will break it free. The vehicle does not need to move.

( Grease that ball better if this is happening )

---LEAVE THE TOW CHAINS CONNECTED---- This will 'catch' the trailer if it begins to roll unexpectedly, especially if you forgot to chock the trailer wheels, which you should not have. In any case, if you get into the habit of not removing the chains right away, the trailer will not roll down a hill into a ditch if its still chained up.

Remember if you are not on a level surface it may not be possible to un hitch if your hitch ball is oriented at a high angle unless you have a block of wood under the trailer jack. It wont go up high enough sometimes.

If you have no plans to drive the tow vehicle anywhere, leave it connected if your spot has the room and is a level parking spot. The trailer should be pretty level anyway and it being 'perfect' is unnecessary.

When you are disconnecting everything, dont be in a hurry to drive away. Leaving something connected and yanking on it can break things.
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Old 09-09-2018, 06:08 PM   #23
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Gravity Will Win in the End

I had the same problem until a long time Airstream owner told me gravity will win in the end. Now I just keep extending and slightly lifting the back of the tow vehicle. Within seconds it always lets go. I should add that I also lubricated the inside of the ball socket.
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Old 09-09-2018, 06:10 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ELSheffer View Post
I had the same problem until a long time Airstream owner told me gravity will win in the end. Now I just keep extending and slightly lifting the back of the tow vehicle. Within seconds it always lets go. I should add that I also lubricated the inside of the ball socket.
THat and you can stand on the bumper, too to help it let go.
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Old 09-09-2018, 06:31 PM   #25
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Still have the original coupler on my 71. Often the release lever is stiff. A quick solution is to use the spring bar from the WD hitch and deliver a few well placed taps until the release latch stands vertically on it's own.

Has anyone rebuilt their coupler?
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:06 PM   #26
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Couple of things.

1) I prefer using a dry lube for the coupler as it doesn't pick up dirt and grit making it a nice grinding compound or jamming up the coupler mechanicals. The ones I use also are rust inhibitors which helps control another factor.
2) upon disconnect a tow ball cover goes on to protect ball, lube, hands and clothing from any lube than might rub off.
3) I prefer to set the front chocks pull forward slightly and set rear chocks then release TV pressure, this insures the chocks are under pressure/load and are far less likely to slip
4) If you know where the neutral height of your hitch it, jack up just about an inch above that putting a minor separation load on the coupling and ease forward just a hair and ball should come free but not violently.
5) Check operation of coupling BEFORE you hook up. If anything is rusty, binding, jammed, now is the time to fix it, check a couple of days ahead if at all possible. a smooth operating coupler will all but eliminate this issue in the first place.
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Old 09-10-2018, 06:51 AM   #27
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Along with the mentioned glaze of grease and securely chocking the wheels, on my 75 with the original Marvel coupler, I find that if I hold just slight pressure on the release lever as I am raising the trailer (electric jack) it releases and lifts off smoothly off the ball.
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Old 10-18-2018, 08:52 PM   #28
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good posts here from
Andy Thompson from CANAM

he really knows this area well

https://www.canamrv.ca/blog/category/hitch-hints/

i am just a happy customer
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Old 01-19-2019, 11:51 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by ejami5 View Post
Agree with Mollysdad. I also now use white lithium grease (spray). I've seen others use some type of black goo out of a can and applying with a paint brush (one fellow said it's all around 'grease' he buys from the auto parts store). Still haven't figured out how to get my clothes clean. Am now searching the internet for a hitch grip to see if I really want yet another tool to cart around.
CARBURETOR CLEANER to get grease/ink out of your clothes. Spray in on DRY clothes, work a little with your finger then immediately apply some BLUE DAWN dish soap, work with finger, then add a little water...then more. Wash as usual after.
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Old 01-19-2019, 12:57 PM   #30
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Am now searching the internet for a hitch grip to see if I really want yet another tool to cart around.
You do.
The hitch grip. Not too pricey, the handle forward helps balance the load, and your hands stay relatively clean.
If I was asked to redesign it, I'd make it a bit wider. I find if your hitch is laying on it's side, you can't pick it up.
Also I'm paranoid about dropping it on my foot. Stay clear.
(although I've never dropped it.)
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Old 01-19-2019, 03:21 PM   #31
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IMO dry lube is not thick enough and can wash away.

Bearing axle grease will not run or wash off.
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Old 01-19-2019, 10:42 PM   #32
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use white lithium grease with gloves
the stuff that look like cream and not the spray as it stays on longer
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Old 01-20-2019, 07:35 AM   #33
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My hitch grip consists of a white plastic garbage bag wrapped around the hitch. Pull the pin, pull the hitch, put it on the ground, lower the tailgate, put it in the back of the truck.
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