New Ultimate Hensley Arrow vs ProPride 3P

[NorrisRM]

Hensley has recently come out with improvements to its “pivot point projection” hitch called the “Ultimate Hensley Arrow”. The improvements include an updated jack system and frame brackets that no longer require drilling holes in the A frame. As a result, it looks like the WD systems are now pretty well the same.

But the major difference between the Hensley Arrow and the ProPride 3P remains. The difference is the method of preventing the hitch ball from pivoting in the trailer coupler. The Hensley Arrow continues to use struts to secure the assembly whereas ProPride uses a yoke that is attached to the A frame.

Can any of the mechanical engineers out there explain the relative advantages and disadvantages of the strut system used by the Hensley Arrow versus the yoke used by the ProPride 3P? ProPride seems to think that the strut system still allows “pivoting on the ball”. Are they right?

I could not find information on the weight of the Ultimate Hensley Arrow. The ProPride 3P is a hefty 195 lbs. If anyone has that information, it would also be appreciated. I have to assume they weigh close to the same assuming you elect for the adjustable hitch bar. Solid stinger is about 10 lbs less I understand.

[JBamadon]

OK, here goes trying to explain a "free body diagram" in words...
With either hitch, draw a rectangle with a circle in the middle to represent the trailer ball to hitch head connection. Now draw the trailer frame rails angling back. The P3 hitch yoke is rigidly fixed in this top view to the "head" rectangle and restrained to the frame, aft at the cross bar location. Draw an arc centered at the hitch ball thru that yoke to frame point. This is how rotation is resisted. Its a reasonable length arm length.
For the Hensley head draw dots at the "Head" where the tension struts attach. Do the same for tension arms to frame points. Connect those dots. Those connections are free to rotate in this top view due to the spherical rod ends. So, draw an arc centered on the hitch ball thru the "head" attach points. See how short that arm is compared to P3. A small length change in the tension struts lets the head "dots" move and "head" to rotate. There you go. Personal opinion is the P3 is more rigid if the cross bar to frame connection stays put.

[JJTX]

I think the whole WDH is being made too complicated.

Pack lighter and or use a better tow vehicle, add in SLOW DOWN and an Equalizer or fastway is all you need.

[BGClassic]

Originally Posted by JJTX

I think the whole WDH is being made too complicated.

Pack lighter and or use a better tow vehicle, add in SLOW DOWN and an Equalizer or fastway is all you need.

These hitches are both known for their anti-sway properties. I don't even fully use my Propride's WD function. There is zero sway.

[crispyboy]

Originally Posted by NorrisRM

I could not find information on the weight of the Ultimate Hensley Arrow. The ProPride 3P is a hefty 195 lbs. If anyone has that information, it would also be appreciated. I have to assume they weigh close to the same assuming you elect for the adjustable hitch bar. Solid stinger is about 10 lbs less I understand.

This is the first I have heard of the improved version of the Hensley Arrow. For the record I have had the Hensley Arrow and now a Propride hitch. Both are great hitches. I now only have the Propride hitch because I stumbled upon deal on an almost new hitch. I have used the PP hitch for one season. Both tow and hitch up the same way. Daily maintenance on both is identical. Bearings ought to be serviced every 3 years. Hitch inspection and torque on u-bolts should not be overlooked.
I like how Hensley made a slight change to the WD jacks. It looks like you can pin it in place so it doesn't loosen going down the highway. One thing Hensley missed was a better way to hold the spring bars in place. The spring loaded pins behind the zerk fitting tend to wear out. PP hitch has a better retaining clip to hold the bars in place.

From looking at the pictures there isn't any difference in weight between the old HA and the new HA. The parts on the new HA hitch are almost identical to the old HA hitch. The solid stinger will be lighter than an adjustable stinger. I noticed that Hensley is now making an adjustable stinger. For years they thought it was a bad idea. I actually owned a Propride stinger that was made for a Hensley. Propride hitch has always had an adjustable stinger. It is a heavy beast. For now my body is ok with moving it around.

The best advice I can give you for hooking up a ppp style hitch is to back your vehicle perfectly in-line with the trailer, adjust the angle of the head if needed and it's a quick hookup almost every time. Once you master this you can be hitched quicker than other types of hitches.

[Silvr_Bullet]

Originally Posted by crispyboy

This is the first I have heard of the improved version of the Hensley Arrow. For the record I have had the Hensley Arrow and now a Propride hitch. Both are great hitches. I now only have the Propride hitch because I stumbled upon deal on an almost new hitch. I have used the PP hitch for one season. Both tow and hitch up the same way. Daily maintenance on both is identical. Bearings ought to be serviced every 3 years. Hitch inspection and torque on u-bolts should not be overlooked.
I like how Hensley made a slight change to the WD jacks. It looks like you can pin it in place so it doesn't loosen going down the highway. One thing Hensley missed was a better way to hold the spring bars in place. The spring loaded pins behind the zerk fitting tend to wear out. PP hitch has a better retaining clip to hold the bars in place.

From looking at the pictures there isn't any difference in weight between the old HA and the new HA. The parts on the new HA hitch are almost identical to the old HA hitch. The solid stinger will be lighter than an adjustable stinger. I noticed that Hensley is now making an adjustable stinger. For years they thought it was a bad idea. I actually owned a Propride stinger that was made for a Hensley. Propride hitch has always had an adjustable stinger. It is a heavy beast. For now my body is ok with moving it around.

The best advice I can give you for hooking up a ppp style hitch is to back your vehicle perfectly in-line with the trailer, adjust the angle of the head if needed and it's a quick hookup almost every time. Once you master this you can be hitched quicker than other types of hitches.

In some instances it’s not possible to back in straight to hookup. I use the Hensley Cub ( lighter version for trailers lighter than 6000 Lbs. ). On occasion I have had to back in and hookup at an angle, not much different, it’s the geometry creating a different mindset.

[switz]

Initially had the Hensley Arrow on our 2013 25FB International Serenity I towed from Los Angles to Phoenix with our 2007 Mercedes ML320 CDI turbo diesel. Max speed in California was 55 mph posted for towing. Trucks blew past and the bow wave did not move the trailer sideways.

After loading the 25FB, we found the Mercedes was not happy with the extra weight so we got our 2012 Ram 2500HD Cummins and continued with the Hensley. We traded the 25FB in our 2014 31' Classic upon which we installed a ProPride and kept the Hensley.

When we bought the 23D in New Jersey, I took the Hensley in the Mercedes and because we had changed the 14" stocks tires and wheels for the 15" SenDel wheel and Michelin tires like I had on the 25FB, all the settings worked. The 23D was at the same elevation as the 25FB. When we did the 23D axle change that also had 3" lifts along with dual puck disc brakes, we retired the Hensley for a ProPride.

Both trailers now have ProPride.

[NorrisRM]

Originally Posted by JBamadon

OK, here goes trying to explain a "free body diagram" in words...
With either hitch, draw a rectangle with a circle in the middle to represent the trailer ball to hitch head connection. Now draw the trailer frame rails angling back. The P3 hitch yoke is rigidly fixed in this top view to the "head" rectangle and restrained to the frame, aft at the cross bar location. Draw an arc centered at the hitch ball thru that yoke to frame point. This is how rotation is resisted. Its a reasonable length arm length.
For the Hensley head draw dots at the "Head" where the tension struts attach. Do the same for tension arms to frame points. Connect those dots. Those connections are free to rotate in this top view due to the spherical rod ends. So, draw an arc centered on the hitch ball thru the "head" attach points. See how short that arm is compared to P3. A small length change in the tension struts lets the head "dots" move and "head" to rotate. There you go. Personal opinion is the P3 is more rigid if the cross bar to frame connection stays put.

Thanks for this explanation which makes sense. For those who might want to follow this with some visuals I am attaching pics of the ProPride main hitch assembly and yoke as well as the Hensley Arrow. You can see the holes in the main assembly of the ProPride hitch where the yoke is bolted to prevent movement of the ball.

Seems to me that both should do the job but the ProPride seems simpler. I am sure both work equally good.

[ROBERT CROSS]

2007 to present...sfsg.
No reason to 'up-grade' at this point.

Bob
🇺🇸

[NorrisRM]

Forgot to mention that the Hensley Arrow is 180 lbs with the fixed stinger. Confirmed this with the Hensley Arrow chat line. Although a bit vague, I think with the adjustable hitch bar it is the same 195 lbs of the ProPride.

[Hans627]

Originally Posted by BGClassic

These hitches are both known for their anti-sway properties. I don't even fully use my Propride's WD function. There is zero sway.

This is pretty much the same for me. I don't need the WD but love the zero sway, especially when trucks are passing me at 70 MPH.

[Jacknife]

I have the Anderson setup . It uses chains instead of bars . Very easy setup and no sway . About 60 lbs total weight

[G8trwood]

Pricing looks a bit different if you have 1100 pounds of tongue weight. PPP knocks you up to 3600 vs 2500 for 2-1/2 size unless I misread.

[rbs]

Originally Posted by Hans627

This is pretty much the same for me. I don't need the WD but love the zero sway, especially when trucks are passing me at 70 MPH.

I've read that same statement several times on here and curious to know how you accomplish that, with around a 1000 lbs of tongue weight, plus the weight placed in the bed of the truck. Is your truck and trailer going down the road level with no truck rear end sag? And, what about the steering, does your steering feel too light? I've pulled heavy trailers without WD and the steering feels too light, I wouldn't like that for pulling the Airstream. I use the WD to restore weight to my front end and the overall setup is basically level, with almost no perception of sag in the rear end of the truck. The truck basically steers exactly the same, loaded or unloaded. Two trucks, the 11 & 15 setups were the same, the 17 required some adjustment in the hitch height as Ford raised the height of the truck. The 22 also required change as Ford lowered the height. We use the PP, 10 years old now, and it works as advertised. Just curious. Don't really have a good picture of our current truck with Airstream, this picture is of the 17.