Moving tongue Jack and propane tanks back 5 inches

[Jim Plyler]

We are towing a 2019 flying cloud 23CB with a 2021 Defender 90.

All works great except the D90 spare tire is too close in a turn to the tongue jack. Looking at adding a new steel plate behind the current plate to remount the jack about 5 inches further back. This would also require adjusting the lid on the battery box to allow the propane tanks to also move back 5 inches.There is room in the box for a two inch height adjustment over about half the lid. All the metal work looks possible and doable to a local welding shop.

Anyone seen this done? Any cautions?

Thanks

[Crackerman]

Do you use a stabilizer type hitch? If so, the extra length of the stinger typically allows about 4to 5 inches of extra space

[Jim Plyler]

Thanks. I use a shocker impact hitch.

[CBWELL]

Do you have a weight distributing hitch or just the shocker? If you have the Shocker air equilizer model you can use a weight distributing hitch with sway control and add several inches to your TV- hitch distance. If all you are using is the Shocker, I would highly reccomend a proper WD hitch, with sway control. The post "Airstream overturned on highway" is good place to read what can happen without WD/Sway control. JMHO

[Jim Plyler]

Thanks. Land Rover advises not to use WD with the D90. I am considering adding Reese friction sway control although we have not had any stabilization problems. With or without addition of a Reese sway control bar the length of the ball mount and ball is the same.

[Andrew T]

A ProPride or Henswill solve both the clearance issue and make you much safer at the same time. It will also save your rear tires and air suspension bags.

Andy

[Jim Plyler]

Thanks. Reading up on Hensley now.

[Wazbro]

Changing to a Bulldog coupler will add a few inches also.
https://www.etrailer.com/A-Frame-Tra.../BD028499.html

[mefly2]

Longer stinger ...

[CMHM]

We drive a Mercedes G-Wagon and had the same issue. Since I got the ProPride hitch the problem was solved. The way the ProPride turns and with its main unit giving you another foot in between both vehicles you will be fine.

[s1000pre]

I just installed a Hensley, wish I had done it a year ago. Don’t spend too much time analyzing the difference between Hensley or Pro Pride. Other than color, they function the same way and are both amazing.

[Gulliver72]

Put the tire on the roof of the Range Rover.

[LY007]

Trade up for a vehicle with an internally stowed spare.

[Keithann]

IWe have a 23FB Flying Cloud and I have been dealing with the same tongue jack issue for years. The jack does not permit the tailgate on my Tundra to open flat which is a true pain since I travel with dogs in kennels in the bed all through bird season. I am about to address the issue by moving the propane tanks back as part of an upgrade to Lithium batteries. Since the new batteries are going to be installed under the bed inside the trailer, there will be ample room to move the propane tanks once the exterior battery box is gone. Looking forward to both the new battery/solar array and the ability to open the tailgate!

[SailorSam205]

Originally Posted by s1000pre

I just installed a Hensley, wish I had done it a year ago. Don’t spend too much time analyzing the difference between Hensley or Pro Pride. Other than color, they function the same way and are both amazing.

Personally, I prefer the Propride. No drilling and they just came out with an improved WD jack.

Also, to the OP, both Hensley and Propride will will eliminate sway with zero WD required. My understanding is that most friction only sway devices will require that you release the friction before backing up and if you tow in wet weather, you will have reduced sway control.

[One Smith]

Originally Posted by Keithann

IWe have a 23FB Flying Cloud and I have been dealing with the same tongue jack issue for years. The jack does not permit the tailgate on my Tundra to open flat which is a true pain since I travel with dogs in kennels in the bed all through bird season. I am about to address the issue by moving the propane tanks back as part of an upgrade to Lithium batteries. Since the new batteries are going to be installed under the bed inside the trailer, there will be ample room to move the propane tanks once the exterior battery box is gone. Looking forward to both the new battery/solar array and the ability to open the tailgate!

We also tow a 23FB with a Tundra...get a longer stinger. No special replacement of your propane tanks and you can use the battery box for storing things like gloves, water hose, and the like. And, it’s a whole lot cheaper, too. We got a longer stinger after our first trip with our old Caravelle. Don’t over think it!

[Keithann]

Originally Posted by One Smith

We also tow a 23FB with a Tundra...get a longer stinger. No special replacement of your propane tanks and you can use the battery box for storing things like gloves, water hose, and the like. And, it’s a whole lot cheaper, too. We got a longer stinger after our first trip with our old Caravelle. Don’t over think it!

I started down the route of getting a longer stinger, but the "expert" at the RV shop warned me that every inch you add to the length of the stinger dramatically reduces tongue weight capacity of the TV. He pointed to a warning sign with a red lettered warning sign above the receiver hitch display. But it sounds like you're saying you've had no such trouble. How much did you extend the stinger?

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by Keithann

IWe have a 23FB Flying Cloud and I have been dealing with the same tongue jack issue for years. The jack does not permit the tailgate on my Tundra to open flat which is a true pain since I travel with dogs in kennels in the bed all through bird season.

Berfor a major surgery, I'd look into some options.
First, the Tundra has a deep bed, therefore a taller tailgate. Good for cargo, bad for clearance.
How much do you need to gain to open the tailgate?
Will turning the jack head sideways give you the room?
Plan B is the longer shank. All solid shanks are interchangeable. The holes are 3/4" and spaced 1 1/4" so an Equalizer head will bolt right up to a Curt shank.
The problem is different manufacturers measure differently so a 16" shank from Equalizer might be different than a 16" shank from Reese. Look to video reviews from E-trailer because they put a tape measure next to the shank.
(Common sense says we'd measure from the pin hole to the head bolt holes, but it's not universal.)
Plan C would be a longer shank and drill a new pin hole, or have a machine shop do it. That way you can make it what you need rather than what some manufacturer thought you need.
My Tundra tailgate clears by 1/4" after turning the jack sideways.


I have an extra shank which I'll probably use to gain 2".

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Keithann

I started down the route of getting a longer stinger, but the "expert" at the RV shop warned me that every inch you add to the length of the stinger dramatically reduces tongue weight capacity of the TV. He pointed to a warning sign with a red lettered warning sign above the receiver hitch display. But it sounds like you're saying you've had no such trouble. How much did you extend the stinger?

He's actually bass akwards. Every inch increase in the distance from trailer axle to receiver mouth DECREASES receiver weight. BUT....every inch increase from TV rear axle to ball increases sway propensity.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

He's actually bass akwards. Every inch increase in the distance from trailer axle to receiver mouth DECREASES receiver weight. BUT....every inch increase from TV rear axle to ball increases sway propensity.

Yes, and that's why I'd go the minimum necessary.
But, it's often done and although the 'book' says there's a change, most folks can't feel it.