Moving attachment points of WD hitch

[doughpat]

The 'attachment points' for my WD hitch are in the way of a double-wide golf cart battery box. The only way I can use this box is to either move the attachment points, or fabricate another rack to elevate them above the attachment points. Moving seems a lot easier. I'm also potentially going to be trying to lower the tongue of the trailer (in an attempt to give a bit more clearance for the very-fragile black/greywater drains in the back), so I might be disassembling parts of the hitch anyway.

Is there any reason I can't move these attachment points further back? (my finger shows a rough location). Of course, the sway bars would need to reach back there, but a quick measurement shows they would (I'd need to verify). One concern is that I'm not sure how much the bars 'lengthen' when doing a steep turn. I'd need to make sure that during a hard turn, they wouldn't move so far forward that they fall out.

I could also potentially move them forward, but then they would probably interfere with the propane tanks. I could more easily raise them than the battery tray, so that might be a better option.

(I'd also need to move/remove the zamp charge port, but thats not a problem -- I've got permanent panels going up top anyway).

[Gsmblue]

Looks like you have an Equal-i-zer hitch. The manual should give you a range of working distances that the brackets can be from the hitch.

[Gsmblue]

I had a quick look, the manual for the 6k-14k version of their hitches says a range of 25 to 32 inches from the coupler is acceptable.

It is mentioned in fig.6

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/manua...acket-assembly

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, I have my "L" brackets as far back as Equal-i-zer recommends. I believe it is 32"s from the center of the ball socket. Farther back gives the spring bars more leverage and more flexibility.

[cicho69]

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, I have my "L" brackets as far back as Equal-i-zer recommends. I believe it is 32"s from the center of the ball socket. Farther back gives the spring bars more leverage and more flexibility.

I measured mine a few weeks ago, as they didn't appear symmetrical in their placement and found the two at different dimensions - 28 1/4" and 29-1/2".(Sloppy install I believe). I called the technical support at Equal-I -Zer and found 32" is the ideal distance from hitch ball center (if you have the room) and I do.
I'll be moving mine once Winter leaves Minnesota.

[bibbs]

It looks like where you want them, is too far back. I would weld them And remove what I in the way, I expect to hear a lot of reasons not to do that. It would be easier to just raise the battery box

[doughpat]

Thanks, all. I think I agree that just raising the battery box up is probably the easiest solution. The current mounting point is in the ideal location (32") so I'd like to not mess with that.

Might try to do something with some angle iron and bolts as I don't have a welder.

Or maybe...this is a good reason to buy a welder

I suppose that I could even just cut some 2x4 material and use some self-tappers or bolts to mount them on edge. That'd get me high enough. Then it'd just be a matter of holding the battery box down to the 2x4 frame.

Nah, welder!