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Old 04-08-2005, 03:50 PM   #1
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Levelling Expedition/Reese dual cam prob...

My trailer is level but the Expedition is slightly elevated in the front. I would like to have more weight on the front end If anything I prefer the "feline" look... nose down.

Am beginning to think this is impossible--lowering the front end. My Reese dual cam, etc. (it's all Reese stuff) "eccentric" washer is at full rear tilt/cant--number on the washer is (6). Is this impossible because the Expedition has that "swing axle" configuration in the rear--ummmm, sorry, independent suspesion

My tow bars are the 1,000 lb. rated bars. The dealer here in Tucson set the whole thing up, by the way.

What would you suggest to get more weight to the front of the Expedition?
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Old 04-08-2005, 04:14 PM   #2
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I am no expert, but it sounds to me as if you need more drop in the hitch ball.

Mark
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Old 04-08-2005, 05:10 PM   #3
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To my way of thinking (blink, blink) that will make my problem worse. What do you think about heavier bars? Capable of less bend, I guess is what I mean.

If I lower the hitch, I am even lower in the rear; the trailer is now level. All I want is the front of the Expedition lowered.

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Old 04-08-2005, 05:23 PM   #4
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How much load are you putting on the equalizer bars? As you load them you should see the front of the Expedition lower. The loading of the bars shifts the weight from the rear of the truck to the front. Your Reese manual should give some examples of this. My bars show visible spring when attached.
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Old 04-08-2005, 05:28 PM   #5
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I don't know how much load but not enough apparently. The "dealer did it" is my excuse and I should have complained but......

Aren't the bars supposed to be parallel to the frame of the trailer under load?

I don't have an instruction book. I think maybe I have weak bars...at least too weak for the "weak kneed" rear of the Expedition.

IF I were to get higher rated bars, would that fix my problem?

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Old 04-08-2005, 05:42 PM   #6
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The way I attach my bars is by hooking up the trailer to the truck. Then I raise the jack until I have picked up the back of the truck considerably. I then put on the chain and lift up the cam and lock into place. Then I lower the jack and remove the jack stand. I have either 4-5 links between the cam and the lock. The bars 1000 lb in my case show deflection, but the truck and the trailer are level. Hope this helps.
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Old 04-08-2005, 08:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kistler
To my way of thinking (blink, blink) that will make my problem worse. What do you think about heavier bars? Capable of less bend, I guess is what I mean.

If I lower the hitch, I am even lower in the rear; the trailer is now level. All I want is the front of the Expedition lowered.

Kistler
It seems to me that:
If the trailer is level, then the coupler is where it should be when everything is right. If the front of the truck needs to come down, then the rear must come up (at least a little). If the rear comes up, but the coupler remains in the same point in space, then you must have more drop. Probably very little more, but maybe an inch or two.

Once upon a time I read somewhere about computing the necessary drop. I remember nothing about it now.

1,000 lb. bars are plenty for a 25'.

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Old 04-08-2005, 08:41 PM   #8
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Kistler, how much does the Expedition's rear end drop when the trailer tongue is set onto the ball? You should see it 'squat' a couple of inches without the bars, and it should be level with them. Tarheel's method of installing the bars is what I use. I generally drop five or six links (free). My bars have visible flex in them, and my Excursion is level with the trailer. Taking up another link or two on the WD bars may make a big difference as well. I agree with Mark that is possible that you may need a little more drop in your ball height, and that the 1000 lb bars should be more than enough for a 25'. My bars are 1000lb bars for my 34' with a 900 lb tongue weight.

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Old 04-08-2005, 08:50 PM   #9
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Thank you, everyone! OK, I guess I'll experiment with the drop of one hole and see what happens.

I hate to buy a wrench just for those big nuts. Maybe my pipe wrench will work.

Kistler
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Old 04-08-2005, 09:14 PM   #10
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Kistler -

Well, at least your dealer installed your Reese hitch so that your trailer rides level. The dealer I bought my Airstream from last year (Turner Airstream) installed my Reese HP Dual Cam hitch haphazardly (the weight bars didn't seat properly in the cam arm), the hitch bar was too short for my tow vehicle, my trailer rides higher in the front and lower in the rear, and I still haven't got it fixed.

I made an appointment to get it fixed at Bretz RV (an Airstream dealer) in Missoula, MT last summer, but they were worse than Turner's, and claimed they had never seen a Reese Dual Cam before, if you can believe that!

Anyway, to address your concern, my suggestion would be to get a copy of Reese's hitch installation instructions. They seem to have these instructions available to download from their internet site, however, I was not able to get it to download a week or so ago when I tried. If you have problems like I did, you can probably contact their technical service people by phone or email to get the instructions. The instructions are pretty detailed, and I know others who have followed them step by step with excellent results (not the 2 Airstream dealers I've been to, unfortunately).

After you check the entire hitch installation instructions, you may find that you can't level your Expedition completely - you didn't say how much the front end is elevated. I've always had a slight front end elevation (maybe 1/2") with my F250 Super Duty even when I've had my 1000# spring bars fully loaded.

John

ps - I wouldn't try to take a hitch apart with a pipe wrench! Even if you were able to get it apart, you'd need to re-torque it properly, and I don't think you could do it manually (from memory, I think they require 300# of torque - and you don't want it coming apart when you're towing - if you think your front end is elelated now... )
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Old 04-08-2005, 10:27 PM   #11
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where are you finding the 1000#bars?

We were told that it jumps from 800-1200 pounds. And I just looked it up now to see about the 1000# bars and don't see them.
http://www.reese-hitches.com/hi_pef_trunnion_bar_wd.htm

We have an Expedition/25'Classic combo and dual cam but our bars are only 800 and we inquired about this because the hitch weight of the 25'Classic is closer to 900#

Can you tell me how the weight of the bars and the tightening or loosening of the chains affect the ride and handling?

Thank you.
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Old 04-09-2005, 12:38 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kistler
..... I guess I'll experiment with the drop of one hole and see what happens....
Kistler:

Below is a link to the PDF on the Reese site for the installation of a trunion bar equalizing hitch.

http://www.reeseprod.com/support/sup...fs/66006IN.pdf

Since you are going to redo it, may I suggest you go to a Cat scale and weigh your rig now, with no equalizing bars, and finally with the new set-up?

A three axel weighing is only about ten bucks, with reweighs only a buck apiece - lots of information can be derived from sequential weighings.

If possible, also get separate weights on your final set-up - just to insure both of the axles are carrying the same load.
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Old 04-09-2005, 05:49 PM   #13
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Reese's instructions are very clear, and easy to follow if you can measure. Download the instructions and follow them, and you will solve your problem. While you are there, e sure to download the instructions for the dual cam installation.

It is likely that the dealer adjusted everything with the trailer empty, and now that you have loaded, you need to increase the load on the spring bars a link or two.

Good luck, and just follow those instructions. If you have problems downloading the instructions, PM me before Monday and I will forward the files. I have them in my computer.
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Old 04-10-2005, 03:54 PM   #14
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Kistler go to http://www.airstream.com/airstream/p.../weights-1.pdf it shows that the ball heigth of your truck should be 18.750". Set your ball as close to this height as you can then adjust using your equalizer bars to bring your truck level.
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Old 04-10-2005, 04:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarheel
Kistler go to http://www.airstream.com/airstream/p.../weights-1.pdf it shows that the ball heigth of your truck should be 18.750". Set your ball as close to this height as you can then adjust using your equalizer bars to bring your truck level.
Based on personal experience with Airstream data, do NOT trust it. Measure your ball height yourself, as Reese tells you. Airstream data was off almost 2 inches on ball height for my 2002 safari. I'm not saying that 18.750 is wrong, but the only way to know what is correct is to measure.

Based on the original post, it is probable that the only problem is that the tounge load has increased when the trailer was loaded and the spring bars need to be tightened a link or two.

Here is what Reese says about ball height in their instructions:
INITIAL SET-UP
1. Line up tow vehicle and trailer on level pavement, in straight-ahead position, uncoupled.
2. Level the trailer and measure and record the distance from the ground to the top of the ball socket (X dimension Fig.1).
3. Select a hitch ball with a diameter that matches the trailer coupler size. The three most common sizes are 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". Select ball with 1-1/4" or 1" threaded shank that is V-5 rated equal to or greater than trailer gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR). A thin jam nut (.72” thick) should be used on standard ballmount to prevent interference with spring bar trunnion.
4. Attach hitch ball to the ballmount (G). REESE standard height hitch balls with 1-1/4" shanks are supplied with lockwashers and nuts (If you must use a 1” shank ball, use bushing 58109 (B) to reduce hole size in ballmount (G) to 1”). Always use a lockwasher and place washer next to nut. Unless otherwise specified by ball manufacturer torque ball nut to 450 ft/lbs for 1-1/4" nut, 250 ft/lbs for 1" nut.
5. Some installations may require a longer hitch bar (D). Extended bumper guards, pickup truck "caps", or rear mounted spare tires can limit turn angles unless a longer bar is used. Individual hitch bars (D) are available in various sizes.
6. Insert the hitch bar (D) into the hitch box and install a pull pin. Place ballmount (G) onto hitch bar and move up or down
for proper height. Hitch bar may be used in either the up or down position (see below).
NOTE: Ball height should be greater than coupler height (measured in step 1) to compensate for vehicle "squat”(approximately 3/4” to 1”).

Hope that this helps.
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Old 04-10-2005, 08:44 PM   #16
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Hi Gang and Kistler!

Having gone through this same experience with my Suburban here's my re-account(?):

First: Get the unloaded ball height set per Airstream recommendation. This seems to be 18.75" for your trailer. Raise/lower your ball to get the proper initial height.

Second: Now hitch up your trailer without the load bars (yet). Does your Expedition sag some in the rear? Yes? Good.
Finally: Now take the tension on your load bars to make them (the bars) level or slightly bent up to the tongue. To work properly the load bars MUST have significant tension on them. Experiment with the proper number of links . . . same on both sides. Use Tarheels method of unloading (raising/lowering) the rear to change the number of links. The goal is a level trailer, level truck, and hitch height very close to the Airstream recommended height.

Hope this helps.

Take care,
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Old 04-11-2005, 04:52 AM   #17
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Kistler,
My Expedition(1997) has automatic air bags on the rear installed by the factory. I don't know about yours but if you have air bags, then, they must be turned on or you will have great difficulty leveling the vehicle with trailer load on the rear. The proper set up requires some experimentation and the will affect the ride greatly. The more load you have on the bars the harsher the ride will be. The air bags keep the vehicle level.
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Old 04-11-2005, 09:02 AM   #18
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Once again, thank you people for the advice/instructions.

The front end of the tv is about 1 1/2 " higher than the rear; I don't have air bags. The Expedition being a 2003 has that independent rear susupension that was new in 2003....I don't like it but it does make the vehicle ride nice....kinda Cadillac squishy

Since you guys don't encourage my using a pipe wrench or two for this job, I am sorta stuck at the moment. Brenda is sick of gifts from Harbor Tools. AND you said I need to torque the nuts....my torque wrench doesn't accommodate a socket that size....don't have a socket that size anyway.

I am now "shopping" for an independent trailer-hitch place (not the Airstream dealer) that seems to understand my problem.

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Old 04-12-2005, 12:35 PM   #19
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JimMickle has given you good instructions. If you follow them you won't go wrong. I have a 3/4" drive set from China that I picked up cheap. the socket wrench and 5' piece of pipe puts a good load on it. It doesn't hurt to check the nuts from time to time they can and do work loose. I ended up putting locknuts on mine were the height is adjusted.
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