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07-29-2003, 08:12 AM
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#21
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 403
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Chuck
Don't believe me, try & then you will believe.
I have a 1500 Silverado
Hart
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07-29-2003, 08:13 AM
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#22
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Just an old timer...
2022 27' Globetrotter
Tipton
, Iowa
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,778
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Quote:
Originally posted by chuck
Oh, and on the hitch: I must have mis-read the instructions. They give a table with bad line drawings of 3 different types of couplers. (type "a", "b", or "c", with different numbers for each).
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Chuck... I know JUST what you mean! I don't think you mis-read the instructions. They're just not very clear. I don't think that the three examples look anything like ANYONE's hitches!
Roger
__________________
havin' to fix my broken Airstreams since 1987...
AIR 2053 Current: 2022 Globetrotter 27FBQ
Airstreams Emeritus: 1953 Flying Cloud, 1957 Overlander, 1961 Bambi, 1970 Safari Special, 1978 Argosy Minuet, 1985 325 Moho, 1994 Limited 34' two-door, 1994 B190, 2004 Interstate T1N, 2020 GT 23 FBQ
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07-29-2003, 01:52 PM
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#23
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Rivet Master
1978 25' Tradewind
Metro Phoenix
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,524
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The "A," "B," and "C" refer to...
the coupler's vertical relationship to the bottom of the frame. My Tradewind was an "A," and I'll bet yours is too.
See The Reese Instructions
So, you first adjust the ball mount for as close to the right height as you can, then get the tilt adjusted so the ends of the bars are the right height from the ground.
Hook up the tow vehicle, raise the whole shootin' match 5" with the electric jack, hook up the chains, and haul your assets down the road.
It worked exactly like that for me. I had it all adjusted before I even saw the trailer. And it worked - was I ever surprised!
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07-29-2003, 02:37 PM
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#24
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Patriotic
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston
, Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,546
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now, why couldn't they just *say* that?
I think you hit it on the head. I think I picked "c". I was paying more attention to the thickness of the frame member. "a" isn't marked, "b" says 6", "c" says 5"......I measured the frame on mine, and its about 4", at which point, I went
AND...last trip, when I was setting this up, I figured that I was about an inch too low overall. I set it so my spring bar is about 7" above the ground, and according to the chart, it should be 8. and that's just about the amount of height I'll get by raising the whole head up to the next hole in the draw bar.....
So, I should just go ahead and tilt that head all the way back to 15 degrees?
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07-30-2003, 04:06 AM
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#25
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Rivet Master
South Shore
, Kentucky
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 537
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Quote:
I am not certain from your description, but it sounds like you may have one of the special Reese draw bars from the 1980s/1990s when conversion vans with rear mounted spare tires were so popular.
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I agree with what Kevin is saying! I had an extended bar that I used (when I towed with a van) which added some distance from the hitch to the ball and I think this contributed to a sway problem which almost turned into a disaster.
This is the thread where I posted it.
The Ultimat Disaster-Airstream Rollover
__________________
Visit our church on the web!
"A safe camper is a Happy Camper"
Bill & Donna
Air Forums Member # 2360
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07-30-2003, 05:00 AM
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#26
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Just an old timer...
2022 27' Globetrotter
Tipton
, Iowa
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,778
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Quote:
Originally posted by Silvertwinky
I agree with what Kevin is saying! I had an extended bar that I used (when I towed with a van) which added some distance from the hitch to the ball and I think this contributed to a sway problem which almost turned into a disaster.
This is the thread where I posted it.
The Ultimat Disaster-Airstream Rollover
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I revisited that entire thread. Even though I read it just a while ago, it's good to re-visit so as not to become complacent. I confess that in all of the years I've towed trailers, I have never given much consideration to how critical it is not merely to HAVE equipment, but that the RIGHT equipment must be installed and properly adjusted to do its job.
Although I wasn't happy with the performance of my hitch system, I THOUGHT my Reese was OK until I tried the proper draw bar. What a difference!
I guess that if there's a moral to this story, it's that if you haven't had your hitch (whatever the brand) set up by someone who is really familiar with the physics and mechanics of hitches, find someone who can check it for you. I've used Reese hitches for years, and thought that a draw bar is a draw bar is a draw bar. Don't assume that by merely having the parts, and presuming that the parts you have are the right ones, you're towing as safely as possible, particularly if you got your hitch from the last guy who owned the trailer! Don't assume that it worked ok for him.
Obviously, in my case, the P.O. experienced sway with that draw bar too, as evidenced by TWO friction sway controllers in addition to the Dual-Cam! And just as obviously, he didn't have it checked either!
Driving is a risky pursuit. Driving and towing a trailer adds complexity to the formula. At least make sure the equipment you have is as competent as it can be. After nearly twenty years of towing (fortunately without major incident), I have learned my lesson.
Roger
__________________
havin' to fix my broken Airstreams since 1987...
AIR 2053 Current: 2022 Globetrotter 27FBQ
Airstreams Emeritus: 1953 Flying Cloud, 1957 Overlander, 1961 Bambi, 1970 Safari Special, 1978 Argosy Minuet, 1985 325 Moho, 1994 Limited 34' two-door, 1994 B190, 2004 Interstate T1N, 2020 GT 23 FBQ
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