Hitch Separation Incident

[Phil Krogh]

My hitch separated from our towing vehicle during our last trip. I was turning onto the highway from a bumpy campground driveway. Damage was minimal and after I determined that the hitch was secure we made it home without incident. The repair shop (not Airstream) told me the coupler latch was worn out. I was skeptical because the trailer probably has less than 20,000 miles on it. But I had not greased the hitch recently, either. I certainly could have neglected to hook it up properly, but the scenario where the hitch is sitting on top of the ball doesn’t seem likely because that type of latch will not snap down in that situation. Any thoughts would be appreciated. 16 foot 2008 Safari Sport.

[primepower]

I assume you have the correct size hitch ball? Sorry to hear about your troubles.

[GCinSC2]

Phil,

Can you find the model number on your hitch assy, do the google and see if a repair kit exists for it. Some can and some can't.

Glad for you it's minimal sounding.

If you have a loose uninstalled hitch ball, insert it in the coupler, close latch and wiggle it around see how it feels. Loosey goosey?

Gary

[Phil Krogh]

Yes, 2 and 5/16ths.
Also, it appears the latch does not have an adjustable nut, like some, but the wedge part is solid steel, not pressed, like cheaper hitches. (?)

[Phil Krogh]

OK, Gary, thanks.
The repair shop ordered a new hitch from Airstream and did a good job installing it.

[Bill M.]

Are you using a WD hitch?

[Lumatic]

Just to be clear, it sounds like you are talking about the coupler only?

[Phil Krogh]

Yes, no WD or sway control. And coupler only.
I guess my main question is did the latch wear that fast with no grease. I should have asked the shop to return the old hitch to inspect it closely.

The only other scenerio that makes sense is if I forgot to fasten the latch. After the event I was too shocked and was not thinking clearly enough to notice if it was up or down.

Thanks.

[Foiled Again]

Well, I am just glad you and you and the Airstream both survived with minimal damage. I always use.a hitch lock - mainly to run the umbilical cable through it so that it doesn't get chewed up by the hitch if I make a hard turn - especially when backing to park (once was enough!)

[PKI]

Check List - don't leave home without a completed one. Pat

[rideair]

If you were using a WD system, to my knowledge, this could not have happen. Suggest using a WD system, even if it's with 500lbs bars. It will hold the hitch down on the ball.

Enjoy,

[Phil Krogh]

"a WD system...will hold down the hitch on the ball."

That is something I hadn't thought of - thanks.

[rideair]

That's why we're here.

Enjoy,

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, OK you are not using a WD hitch. With a WD hitch we lift the trailer with the tongue jack to install the spring bars. If the ball isn't seated and locked properly, the coupler will pop off of the ball.

You might want to connect your coupler to the ball and lift the coupler with your tongue jack just to make sure it is latched; Then lower it and hit the road.

[silverhio]

While I have really only worked closely with my own hitches/couplers, I can't imagine there not being a way to adjust the coupler. My first thought is yours was just way too loose and popped off. Is yours the kind with a top lever that closes down? Did you lock it on, or at least put a pin on the lever? I see all the time people not using a pin and they do not seem to lose their trailers..

I tighten mine so there is just a tiny amount of play, so I do not hear all that bumping noise through the hitch. I adjust it with the receiver ball off the truck and in my hand so I can turn and rotate it to be sure there is no binding, but that it moves freely.
Not greasing it will not wear it out in 20,000 miles. My brother never greases his and goes 100,000 miles and he does not bother to keep is receiver tight or care about all the knocking sounds. I always keep grease on mine.

[sarge12212]

I prefer to tow on-the-ball with linear sway control bars. I don't need the WD hitch and like to keep it simple. When I had new axles installed on my '77 Excella 500 the shop said my hitch was sketchy and not built for the load I was pulling. Their recommendation: The Gen-Y-Hitch #GH525 with the sway control adapter. My truck is lifted slightly, so I got the 10" drop unit. That leaves an extra slot for a wedge shaped block that comes with it. This block slides over the hitch, not allowing it to lift off of the ball. I lock it in place with a hitch-pin lock and there is no possible way the trailer can separate from my truck. It has 2k tongue and 16k towing capacity. Seems like overkill, but is there really such a thing....

[BayouBiker]

Originally Posted by Phil Krogh

Yes, 2 and 5/16ths.
Also, it appears the latch does not have an adjustable nut, like some, but the wedge part is solid steel, not pressed, like cheaper hitches. (?)

As you indicated, most Airstreams are equipped with the "Marvel type" coupler with the simple spring loaded articulated sliding wedge that relies on the geometry of the ball socket and slot ramp machined into the A Frame assembly. It is a simple design but since there are no adjustments there is no easy way to accommodate wear or compensate for looser than ideal clearance due manufacturing variances.

The shop reported the coupler was worn and accepting their description it is plausible that it was a bit loose from the start and then experienced some wear accelerated by lack of lubrication. Some of the clearance can be removed by shimming the latch wedge ramp, but if the ball socket is oversized due to wear, there is only so much you can do.

Don't discount the possibility the wedge did not fully deploy and though warn, was not actually worn out. It is not uncommon for the wedge to hang up even with the lever down especially if gummed up a bit by rust and metal shavings and dirt. This would also be more likely due to lack of lubrication. It is also common for this to happen if the trailer was set down with the ball close to the back of the socket where the latch is. If the latch handle does not slide back and forth easily once in the closed position this is good indication the latch wedge is not fully deployed.

For other readers, if the latch wedge is worn, that can be replaced for $35 plus labor.

FYI, the reason WD hitches nearly eliminate the possibility of simple ball/socket separation is they impart a clamping force onto the ball and socket about 4-5 times the strength of the weight transferred. In a partial separation, as the coupler lifts, that clamping force can easily double or triple. More reason to grease the ball.

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by BayouBiker

For other readers, if the latch wedge is worn, that can be replaced for $35 plus labor.

Not always.

I wish mine could be serviced with a kit, but no such luck.

Mine is an Atwood model 81912, rated capacity 13K. Long time ago I researched this and the latch repair kit availability needs to be linked to make and model number of the coupler.

Here is a link to Atwood Hardware Manual and on page two for A frame couplers it lists specs and latch kit part numbers. The part number for my 81912 is NA.

https://myrvworks.com/manuals/ select Atwood, doc name is Hardware Manual.

Darren has accumulated a bunch for factory manuals on his website.

Be nice to your coupler and it'll be nice to you.

Just an FYI.

Gary

[NevadaGeo]

How about the simple solution, some how the hitch wasn’t secured. A bumpy road slamming on the latch just the wrong way and open sezme. That might be worth more looking into how a latch could self open in some extreme occurrence. Maybe it was latched, but not quite.

[tbashin]

Makes me want a Bull dog hitch.