Hitch problem

[wyhjr]

I've been having a problem securing the hitch on my 2000 Safari. The last two times I moved the trailer (in and out of the storage building) I was unable to completely lock the hitch. By that I mean that the pivoting lever would not completely lock so that a pin could be inserted through the mating holes. (the holes are close to lining up but not quite). I've tried tapping the lever and moving the trailer a few feet, all to no avail.
Any ideas on adjustments or things I should look far? I refuse to pull the trailer without being convinced that the hitch is completely locked.
Thanks for your help.

[thenewkid64]

Do the holes ever line up? On or off the ball?

When you first drop the hitch over the ball and flip the lever it should.

Are you lowering it far enought to get a good mate?

The vehicle suspension should deflect some prior to flipping the lever.

Have you looked at the latching mechanism from the bottom to see if you have an obstruction? There could also just be a buildup of old grease and goop in there that needs to be cleaned out.

If you can't figure it out, and it is someting that is causing you concern it may be worth taking it to your Airstream dealer and having them give it a once over. Even if they say, no problems just normal wear etc. you can rest easy. I belive the lever and locking pawl and spring can be replaced but I have no idea where other than a dealer you would get the parts.

[wyhjr]

Brett,
Yes, the holes do line up when operating the lever without the hitch ball in place. I've looked up at the mechanism from below and don't see anything that shouts "broken" to me.
I'll clean and lube the parts and give it another try this week.

[jcanavera]

Originally posted by wyhjr
By that I mean that the pivoting lever would not completely lock so that a pin could be inserted through the mating holes. (the holes are close to lining up but not quite).

I've also had a little difficulty on hitching my Safari, exactly like you describe. The trick I have found is always making sure that the ball ever so slightly is positioned to the front of the hitch. Which means as the hitch drops onto the ball, it drags just slightly the ball on the side that faces the tow vehicle.

In essance the trailer is pulled slightly forward as the ball engages the hitch. The hitch lever always closes and lines up properly.

When I drop the hitch on the ball where it is a completely clean drop, the lever will not lock down and the holes do not line up completely.

Regards,

Jack

[wyhjr]

Thanks Jack,
I'll try that trick and post my result!

[Action]

W,

I'll echo what jack put out and add that lube is important on my hitch. The lube I use on the ball allows the hitch to slide down over the ball and lube I spray in to the hitch (white lithum) from the underside allows the locking mechanisim to operate more freely.

In the past I was allowing the hitch to drop on the ball and the latching mechanism would jamb and not lock down. Sometimes it would straighten out if I pulled the truck forward ever so slightly. Now I drop the hitch over the ball but the hitch has to slide over the front of the ball to engage the ball. With the weight of the trailer, the hitch slide over the ball and the trailer moves forward ever so slightly. Works well.

>>>>>>>>>Action

[gwsullivan]

I have also experienced this problem and found that raising or lowering the jack slightly will cause the holes in the lever to line up. Please don't tow your A/S without the lever being fully engaged. I always test mine by raising the jack to the extent that it raises the back of the truck enough to ensure me that the locking lever is engaged.

[thenewkid64]

Gwsullivan,

When I bought my first AS trailer the dealer did a training seminar on how to properly hitch and unhitch your trailer. I am going to review the steps I usually took to hitch up as this may be of some assistance to those that have gotten trailers with no instruction.

Some of this may be obvious but here goes.

1. Disconnect from all shore services, AC Cable, Water, phone if you got it.

2. Retract all stabilizers.

3. Lift front of rig with jack to a height greater that the height of ball on tow vehicle.

4. Back tow vehicle into tongue of trailer, get out look at dent, get back in and line up ball with receiver. This is the hardest part of the whole process.

5. Lower receiver, with the locking lever in the open position onto the ball until suspension deflects. Hook up chains in a crossing pattern.

6. Flip the locking lever.

Go to step 9 if you do not use weight transfer bars.

7. Using jack lift the trailer and tow vehicle up so that there is approx a 10 degree bend between the vehicle and trailer tongue.

8. Insert weight transfer bars, and lock the trailer clamps into position. You will have figured out or been told how many links of chain to use. Remember to insert the keeper pins.

9. Lower trailer to fully transfer weight to tow vehicle. Remember to pick up you jack base if you have one.

10. Remove wheel chocks or locks, , pull pin on breakaway switch, and pull trailer forward 2-3 ft to test switch. If you are parked on leveling blocks pull off these prior to test of breakaway switch.

11. Reinsert breakaway pin and attach cable to tow vehicle.

12. Hook up tow vehicle wiring harness and have co-pilot check brake and turn signal lights on trailer prior to pulling out.

13. Drive safely!

By using this type of list and following the same steps each time in the same order I did not forget to do something and was sure that I had checked all of the things that were necessary for my own and others safety.

[thenewkid64]

Brian,

You are right. I was working from memory. I only tested the breakaway before attaching the umbicial. Thanks for correcting the error, I have corrected the post as well.