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Old 08-15-2020, 05:02 PM   #21
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I have been told by highly experience techs that pin hole deformation is not a problem in real life. That none have ever seen or heard of that causing a separation. The hole may become elongated, but it would be years before enough wear was a problem. Just keep an eye on the hole wear.
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Old 08-16-2020, 06:49 AM   #22
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Just wanted to say Thank You for all the feedback and possible solutions
Very much appreciated
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Old 08-19-2020, 09:40 AM   #23
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My Hensley bent two pins over he course of a couple of years, and I wondered about the cause.
When I lost the pin ( left it on the Bumper) I replaced it with a more expensive pin and have had no issues since.
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Old 08-19-2020, 01:53 PM   #24
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Hitch pin hole deforming

Last week I had my receiver replaced on my 2020 Silverado 2500 for the same reason. I might have had 4000 miles towing on my receiver. I also called equal-i-zer and I talked with Democrats since that is what my coupler is on my 33’ classic. I made an adjustment to my equal-i-zer after talking with them and checked the Demco coupler after talking with them. You are only the second person I heard that has had this problem. Hoping my new receiver will wear fine now.

Btw, I stated to feel the trailer bang when stopping and starting. That’s when I carefully inspected the receiver.
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Old 08-19-2020, 02:14 PM   #25
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It would take some effort to egg out this hole.
A quality receiver helps.
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Old 08-19-2020, 04:51 PM   #26
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After reading this thread I went out and looked closely at the receiver on my 2017 F250 and, sure enough, I have some deformation of one of the receiver holes. Not serious yet, but I want to do something to keep it from getting worse.

I'm using an AMPLock lock which has an angled pin. It's supposed be designed for the 3" receiver on my diesel but it's a snug fit with the angle of the pin right up against the receiver, hence the problem.

I have the hitch pin Ford supplied which will work but it's not lockable. I've been looking but haven't found a suitable locking one. The Master Lock item Bob linked to earlier in this thread is close in that it has a 3 1/2" usable length however when taking into account the thickness of the receiver itself, I need something longer than 3 3/4". Suggestions from other Ford diesel owners or anyone else would be appreciated.
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Old 08-19-2020, 05:15 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeinca View Post
After reading this thread I went out and looked closely at the receiver on my 2017 F250 and, sure enough, I have some deformation of one of the receiver holes. Not serious yet, but I want to do something to keep it from getting worse.

I'm using an AMPLock lock which has an angled pin. It's supposed be designed for the 3" receiver on my diesel but it's a snug fit with the angle of the pin right up against the receiver, hence the problem.

I have the hitch pin Ford supplied which will work but it's not lockable. I've been looking but haven't found a suitable locking one. The Master Lock item Bob linked to earlier in this thread is close in that it has a 3 1/2" usable length however when taking into account the thickness of the receiver itself, I need something longer than 3 3/4". Suggestions from other Ford diesel owners or anyone else would be appreciated.
I got my lockable Class V pin without a bend in the towing section at Lowes Home Improvement.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Reese-Class...r-Lock/3824611

After re-reading your post I see that you need a 3-3/4 length. Ford hitches must be substantially different from my Ram. It fits with room to spare.

From the Draw-Tite website:
"A Class V hitch has a 2-1/2" square receiver opening"

Adding 1/4" for two 1/8" thick walls gives 2-3/4" total span. Ford must use thicker metal for their receiver. Don't be fooled by measuring flange on the face of the receiver.
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Old 08-19-2020, 06:00 PM   #28
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Currently using a similar pin as OP. This has given me an excuse to spend money on something new!

Since no one needs more keys, does anyone have a recommendation on a hitch, coupler, and coupler latch lock set that uses the same key?

Found this one on etrailer, but hitch lock is only 2 5/8" and I need a longer one (tundra receiver is wider than standard class IV).

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Cou...rt/C23088.html
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Old 08-19-2020, 06:10 PM   #29
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Hitch pin

I just recently bought a pin that expands in the receiver when tightened.
This pin eliminates any play.
The only downside is you have to carry two 3/4” open end wrenches to tighten pin.
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Old 08-19-2020, 07:01 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
I got my lockable Class V pin without a bend in the towing section at Lowes Home Improvement.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Reese-Class...r-Lock/3824611

After re-reading your post I see that you need a 3-3/4 length. Ford hitches must be substantially different from my Ram. It fits with room to spare.

From the Draw-Tite website:
"A Class V hitch has a 2-1/2" square receiver opening"

Adding 1/4" for two 1/8" thick walls gives 2-3/4" total span. Ford must use thicker metal for their receiver. Don't be fooled by measuring flange on the face of the receiver.
My 2017 Ford F250 diesel came with a 3" receiver and sleeves for use with 2 1/2" and 2" stingers. The receiver is pretty beefy and has 1/4" thick side walls. Measuring from side to side through the receiver holes I came up with a shade over 3 1/2" so figured I needed a locking pin with at least a 3 3/4" clear span.

Fortunately, after posting I did some more looking and found a locking straight Draw Tite Class V pin with a 4" clear span on etrailer. I think it will do the trick. Thanks for your input!
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Old 08-19-2020, 07:28 PM   #31
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I use this anti-rattle hitch pin when towing our vintage AS and using a hollow shank ball mount. Keeps things very tight.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Unfortunately it doesn't work on a solid shank like used on our 2017 AS with the Equalizer hitch system. I use a very high quality locking pin with that setup.

I've always considered curved hitch pins with cotter pins as temporary, for short distance trips like to the local dump.
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Old 08-19-2020, 07:30 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Rondezous02 View Post
Since no one needs more keys, does anyone have a recommendation on a hitch, coupler, and coupler latch lock set that uses the same key?
I am using a Boltlock. My tow vehicle's ignition key unlocks it. They have all 3 types you mention, plus a padlock.

https://www.boltlock.com/
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Old 08-21-2020, 10:48 AM   #33
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We had the same problem with the pin hole gradually increasing in size over time. We replaced the receiver and then shopped around for locking pins that were snug and did not have any play. We eventually found a set that fit perfectly and have not had any issues since. It was like the Goldilox and three bears story, too small, or too large, until just right. Good hunting!
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Old 08-27-2020, 12:46 PM   #34
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hitch wear

It is best to find out why the wear pattern exists. The pin may not have any wear because it is a harder material. Also the shape of the opening suggests a heavy force, as the material has been `pressed out' rather than just `sanded down'.


I had an experience with my first hitch. Every year I inspect the hitch and stinger (A Hensley set up), usually looking for paint repair. Once, maybe 5 years ago, I noticed a crack starting in one corner of the hitch opening. Definitely not good, and definitely not caused by simple `wear'.



I replaced the hitch and, when I received it, I found that its box was sitting about 2" different in height. Wow. I called Hensley and asked them how they sized the stinger offset, thinking that they took the tow vehicle, the hitch size, and the trailer and had a sophisticated method of pairing the stinger with my tow vehicle and trailer. Not so. When I asked about what to look for in a proper hitch arrangement they indicated that when loaded (e.g. jack is withdrawn and trailer tongue is supported by the hitch) there should be a straight, horizontal line from the hitch to the trailer tongue. That was the condition with my new set-up and I assumed that was NOT the condition on my earlier set-up which had a hitch opening 2" different, vertically, than the new arrangement.



I concluded that the misalignment had caused a rather severe bending load on the hitch/stinger assembly, resulting in a high stress in the corners of the hitch box. The weakest corner developed a crack.


So, based upon the condition of the pin hole and on my experience there may be an issue with the alignment as opposed to a case of simple `wear'.
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Old 08-28-2020, 12:33 AM   #35
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The nice part about Hensley is their lifetime warranty. There were some hitches that cracked and were replaced. I have never heard of a failure causing separation.
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Old 09-26-2020, 11:08 AM   #36
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Thanks for the Useful Thread!

Thanks gentlemen, for the useful thread! I have had slop between shank and receiver for quite a while. Going to order that tightener.
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Old 09-27-2020, 07:20 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delrossa View Post
I just recently bought a pin that expands in the receiver when tightened.
This pin eliminates any play.
The only downside is you have to carry two 3/4” open end wrenches to tighten pin.
It works great. No play no clunk!
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