Hitch Paranoia Has Me Frozen

[MSDeneen]

My new rig: 2011 FC 23. With 2019 Denali 4WD: older EZ lift WD

Ideally, we don't want to mess with spring bars. Heavy, hard to latch and noisy.

I was all set to spend $2500 on an advanced style hitch. We decided to watch some videos about using them. OMG! Suddenly, we are in an internet maze of hitch failures, broken welds, elongated holes, and deformed parts, along with customer service nightmares.

Ok, I upped my budget another $1000. But--more horror stories on the hitch failing.

It brings this question to mind: Is there anything reliable? Are the old school WDs more reliable than the high tech hitches?

In my worldview nothing trumps safety. 10 years ago with our first AS, we had two welding failures of a hitch. Fortunately, no accidents or harm.

Who is building the REAL DEAL? If I stay with a less complex WD hitch, who is king of the hill?

Paranoid in Palm Dessert
Mark

[jeffmc306]

Originally Posted by MSDeneen

My new rig: 2011 FC 23. With 2019 Denali 4WD: older EZ lift WD

Ideally, we don't want to mess with spring bars. Heavy, hard to latch and noisy.

I was all set to spend $2500 on an advanced style hitch. We decided to watch some videos about using them. OMG! Suddenly, we are in an internet maze of hitch failures, broken welds, elongated holes, and deformed parts, along with customer service nightmares.

Ok, I upped my budget another $1000. But--more horror stories on the hitch failing.

It brings this question to mind: Is there anything reliable? Are the old school WDs more reliable than the high tech hitches?

In my worldview nothing trumps safety. 10 years ago with our first AS, we had two welding failures of a hitch. Fortunately, no accidents or harm.

Who is building the REAL DEAL? If I stay with a less complex WD hitch, who is king of the hill?

Paranoid in Palm Dessert
Mark

Mark, it can be a difficult decision!

I can tell you we started with a FC23FB and a Blue Ox SwayPro. It’s really a simple setup; the bars go into the hitch head assembly. User tip: put the tongue jack down (ball on the hitch, locked down) to raise the trailer. This will make it easier to connect the chains into the latches. Do the same when you remove them.

For your 23’, you can likely get by with 750 lbs. bars. We used 1000 lbs. bars and selected fewer links (less tension).

The Blue Ox Sway Pro works by adding tension to the bar opposite the sway, helping keep the trailer straight.

Plus, the bars are tapered so they will give when turning normally. You do not have to disconnect them to back up.

We’re now on our 2nd Airstream, a 27’ Globetrotter using the same hitch and bars.

It’s a safe and proven solution, one that Airstream now recommends.

Hope that helps!
Jeff

[dshiffman]

Back in olden times, at the beginning of the century, I did the research and ended up with a Pull-Rite hitch, which is unfortunately no longer manufactured (they only do 5th wheel stuff now, it's a bigger market).

Repeated the exercise this time, and ended up with the Weigh Safe (weigh-safe.com). They sell direct from the manufacturer, and ship it to you. Install was straightforward, and I have been pleased with the towing performance.

Way under $2K.

[MSDeneen]

Originally Posted by dshiffman

Back in olden times, at the beginning of the century, I did the research and ended up with a Pull-Rite hitch, which is unfortunately no longer manufactured (they only do 5th wheel stuff now, it's a bigger market).

Repeated the exercise this time, and ended up with the Weigh Safe (weigh-safe.com). They sell direct from the manufacturer, and ship it to you. Install was straightforward, and I have been pleased with the towing performance.

Way under $2K.

WOWZA! I just watched their video. That looks very well made and with the built-in scale, it's acinch to adjust the WD.

That hitch has moved up to the top of my list!

Thanks guys!
Mark

[kb0zke]

We used a Blue Ox towbar system when we had our Foretravel and a towed. Wore out the first one, factory gave us a good deal on the second one. When we bought the Reflection travel trailer two years ago I asked for a Pro Pride hitch, but they couldn't do that, so I went with the Blue Ox. Worked great. The dealer goofed and gave us 1000 pound bars instead of the 2000 pound ones we needed. When we bought our Airstream in December I took both sets of bars along and used the 2000 pound bars on the way up to trade and the 1000 pound bars on the way back with the Airstream. At the time didn't know that Airstream is now recommending Blue Ox, but I'm a satisfied customer.


BTW, if you have a Blue Ox product and visit the factory, even if it is just to have them check your system over, the camping at the paved FHU site is free. Factory tours are also interesting.

[Piggy Bank]

I recommend the Equalizer hitch.

Why? It is simple, not too heavy to hitch up for a middle aged woman, and doens't have chains or springs.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com

[MSDeneen]

Originally Posted by kb0zke

We used a Blue Ox towbar system when we had our Foretravel and a towed. Wore out the first one, factory gave us a good deal on the second one.



...
BTW, if you have a Blue Ox product and visit the factory, even if it is just to have them check your system over, the camping at the paved FHU site is free. Factory tours are also interesting.

Yes, this looks good too - thanks!


The Blu Ox is about $900, the Weigh Safe is about $1400. Considering I was about to drop $2400 those are both good plays.



Airstream recommends Blue Ox - that's a plus.

The Weigh Safe has that great tongue weight scale and WD adjust. I like that.



I'm still shocked at seeing all those welding failures on other hitches. I would have thought in this era of robotic welding and xray, such things would not happen.



In 2012, on a trip to Death Valley, we arrived at camp after traversing the Panamints to find our drop leg on the ball mount was hanging by 1/4" of remaining weld! That was on an Airstream Dealer installed EZ hitch! Tookk the ball mount to a welding shop to repair. He said it was made in a thrid world country witrh horrible welds, and he wouldn't even repair it. We bought a new one.



Hard to gain trust anymore.



Cheers to all,
Mark

[AlbertF]

EZ hitch? You mean Eaz-Lift?

And what actually failed?

The bar that slides into the receiver is now a cast steel piece with a loose fit. Can Am RV has new ones custom fabricated, but they continue to use these. As they have for over 50 years.

I’m still using an old/obsolete welded (not bolted) Eaz-Lift ball mount. Still good, and I have no plans to replace it.

[overlander64]

Greetings Mark!


My suggestion would be to get your electric tongue jack fixed. Then, with the knowledge of where your weight distribution bars need to be attached, use your electric tongue jack to raise the trailer tongue and back of tow vehicle high enough that the weight distribution bars just easily lift into place. You may find that the hitch that came with your trailer will serve you well.



I have been towing with the same Resse Strait Line Hitch since 1980 with minimal adjustments to allow for the differences between tow vehicles and trailers -- I have owned the same Airstream since 1995. I haven't had to use my helper/cheater bar to connect the snap-up brackets on my weight distribution bars since I had the electric hitch jack installed about 25 years ago. I just lock the trailer on the ball, raise the hitch jack until it is several inches higher than it needs to be to level the car/trailer, then I insert the weight distribution bars, and count the dropped links and place the needed link in the snap up bracket, raise (by hand) the snap-up bracket and insert the security pin -- repeat for the other side -- then retract the jack -- hitched ready to go.



I am considering having an electric hitch jack installed on my 1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre as it is becoming quite a chore to hitch it with a manual jack now that I am 65.


Good luck with your investigation, research, and decision!


Kevin

[NutmegsCamper]

Hi Mark,

When we bought our 23' Airstream, we purchased the Blue Ox Sway Pro with 750 pound bars. It did well enough, and we thought the sway we felt with passing trucks was just normal.

Year two with our AS 23, and I purchased the Weigh-Safe True-Tow middleweight. I got it all set up, and went on a 400 mile trip. It was a world of difference, and won't go back. We tow with a 2021 F150.

The Weigh-Safe was very simple to set up (as was the Blue Ox). The Weigh-Safe is a little easier to work the bars, and quite a bit safer (We never had problems with the Blue Ox, but if you don't raise the truck high enough, those chains will come flying back - causing damage to the AS and the person). The real difference is in the handling while towing.

Cost was under $1000 for both.

[MSDeneen]

Originally Posted by AlbertF

EZ hitch? You mean Eaz-Lift?

And what actually failed?

The bar that slides into the receiver is now a cast steel piece with a loose fit. Can Am RV has new ones custom fabricated, but they continue to use these. As they have for over 50 years.

I’m still using an old/obsolete welded (not bolted) Eaz-Lift ball mount. Still good, and I have no plans to replace it.

My mistake - it's actually a "CURT" hitch.

[MSDeneen]

Originally Posted by overlander64

Greetings Mark!

I just lock the trailer on the ball, raise the hitch jack until it is several inches higher than it needs to be to level the car/trailer, then I insert the weight distribution bars, and count the dropped links and place the needed link in the snap up bracket, raise (by hand) the snap-up bracket and insert the security pin -- repeat for the other side -- then retract the jack -- hitched ready to go.


Good luck with your investigation, research, and decision!


Kevin

Hi Kevin,


Yes, I recall that jacking up proceedure when we had the FC 25/Suburban combo. It used to scare me how high we had to go before the bars would slide onto the L-bracket. I mean, there were times I thought the rear wheels were going to lose contact. Then I began to wonder if the LATCH was going to give way. I suspect the hitch wasn't installed quite right.



My new jack switch will arrive today. I will get the jack repaired and see how that technique might work on this "CURT" hitch.



I guess the other issue is SWAY CONTROL. I should look into how well any of these hitches do sway control.



As always, you guys are always helpful!


Cheers,
Mark and Paula

[Forester2]

Ditto on using tongue jack. My 1000# Blueox bars chain up very easily. Safest way to do it.

[bigfoot390]

Back in the before times…. I have towed various Airstream’s work trailers side by sides for hundreds of thousands of miles.
Nothing beats inspecting everything in your hitch setup before every hookup.
No matter what brand you choose. They are all good and reliable as long as you service and inspect them often.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by MSDeneen

My new rig: 2011 FC 23. With 2019 Denali 4WD: older EZ lift WD

Ideally, we don't want to mess with spring bars. Heavy, hard to latch and noisy.

I was all set to spend $2500 on an advanced style hitch. We decided to watch some videos about using them. OMG! Suddenly, we are in an internet maze of hitch failures, broken welds, elongated holes, and deformed parts, along with customer service nightmares.

Ok, I upped my budget another $1000. But--more horror stories on the hitch failing.

It brings this question to mind: Is there anything reliable? Are the old school WDs more reliable than the high tech hitches?

In my worldview nothing trumps safety. 10 years ago with our first AS, we had two welding failures of a hitch. Fortunately, no accidents or harm.

Who is building the REAL DEAL? If I stay with a less complex WD hitch, who is king of the hill?

Paranoid in Palm Dessert
Mark

Hello.

2007-**** No regrets.
Granted the learning curve took half a Season and I learned a lot by self-installing but it's not all that difficult.
A rearview camera, some hitching rods, and a bit of patience are all that's needed.

Bob
🇺🇸

[Silver Ship]

No noise from the Blue Ox. Silent hitch!…J

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Unless you are backing at a sharp angle (which you should not do) the "bar" hitches really don't make much noise at all.

There are three "pretty normal" hitches folks use. Reese, Equalizer, and Blue Ox. They all have more in common than they do differences. They all work well. I have an Equalizer.

There is nothing made anywhere on planet Earth that *somebody* can't destroy. When they do, it will *never* be their fault. These days the standard approach is to go on the internet and blame blame blame. The hope is that somebody will pay you to shut up. (Ok, maybe the phrase might be "pay to fix the issue" ).

The other 99.999% of all folks who have these hitches seem to be pretty happy with them. When something odd happens 20 years down the road, they accept that stuff wears out and get a new one. Sort of like those tires that didn't last 20 years .

Do odd failures occur? Of course they do. They always have. They've been happening for at least 70 years. Back then you heard the story around the campfire. Maybe a few dozen folks heard about this or that. Today the same story goes out to 785 million folks on the internet.

Get what you can afford. Get it sized properly for your trailer. Get it installed correctly. Check it after a quick run around the block. Check it again after the first few dozen miles. They all need lube somewhere, learn where that is and how to do it. They all have bolts that need to be checked from time to time. Learn where they are and how to check them. (Yikes is that a big wrench .... yup indeed it is !!! ).

Ideally you would check the install on a CAT scale after you get things all loaded up. If your loading changes, you just might spend that $15 again ....

Fun !!!

Bob

[davidrrand]

Equalizer going on 9 years. No issues but not light and makes noises. No sway yet.

[CharlesinGA]

It sounds like the OP has "analysis paralysis" which is hazardous to your health!

I second Jeff's and other's recommendation for the Blue Ox Sway Pro. Its rather easy to operate and the bars are lighter than most and easy to install. The chain/rotating latch makes some folks nervous, but if you buy a 24 inch breaker bar from Harbor Freight and a 12 point 1 inch socket it becomes rather easy. Do not try to use the turning tool that comes with the hitch.

Blue Ox spring bars are about 8 lbs, way less than many others. The hitch head/ball/shank, as you pick up and insert in the receiver is about 45 lbs, one of the lighter ones. The hitch head, and the shank are cast steel, allowing them to be lighter than built up, welded up, hitch heads. I've never read on one breaking or cracking. If the bolts are properly torqued on almost any hitch, you won't have loose bolts, or elongated holes or other related issues.

I despise the Equal-i-zer due to the stupid heavy bars, and that the bars really don't flex much meaning they put a LOT of stress on the trailer frame and the tow vehicle frame, in addition, if you get a hitch with wrong weight bars for your tongue weight (it happens) you have to buy an entire new hitch as the bars are NOT interchangeable. I won't get into the rest of the issues I have with that hitch. Had one, let it go with a Thor trailer I had. Was glad to see it gone.

Charles

[SunchaserV]

Originally Posted by CharlesinGA

I second Jeff's and other's recommendation for the Blue Ox Sway Pro. Its rather easy to operate and the bars are lighter than most and easy to install. The chain/rotating latch makes some folks nervous, but if you buy a 24 inch breaker bar from Harbor Freight and a 12 point 1 inch socket it becomes rather easy. Do not try to use the turning tool that comes with the hitch.

Charles

Good point on a long breaker bar, but why a 12 and not 6 point socket for the 6 point nut?