Hensley zerks sheared off

[mojo]

When I recently bought my used 2006 25FB Safari, it came with a Hensley hitch. What a great deal. However, I realized that the spring bars were falling out because the zerk pins were getting sheared off after only 1000 miles of towing. Resetting the hitch did nothing. So after burning through 5 sets of pins I pulled the spring bar bushing and called Hensley.

Turns out it had bushings for the 1400# bars and I had 1000# bars. Terry at Hensley assured me that the PO had not changed bars so the hitch probably left the factory with the wrong bushing. Sooooo.... if you are burning through zerk pins, it might help to measure the diameter of the bushings on your hitch. The 1400# bushing has a 1 1/2" diameter and the 1000# bushing has a 1 3/8" diameter.

Got a new bushing from Hensley and now the 1000# bars fit like a glove!

[AirHeadsRus]

Mojo,
I also bought a trailer with a used Hensley. Like you I ran thru a couple of sets of zerks. In October I talked to Ron at Hensley and he asked me to check the bushing to see if it might be cracked. It was so I ordered a new one. He threw in a couple of zerks so I could put new ones in. I did have one fail after a 1000 mile trip but I had screwed it in to far. My fault. Still need to work on that. I replaced it and have about 2500 miles on the new set with no problems. After reading your post, I was curious about the size so I dropped the bars and measured. I have the correct bushing for my 1000 lb bar. Happy about that!
Thanks for posting. I like to learn as much as I can about my "Maude". Anybody have a sure fire way to gauge how far to screw the zerks in?
Regards,
Joe

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by AirHeadsRus

Mojo,
I like to learn as much as I can about my "Maude". Anybody have a sure fire way to gauge how far to screw the zerks in?
Regards, Joe

Not sure how how fireproof it is, BUT....stick your longest finger up the hole and push the springy head in 'til it's flush with the wall of a well lubricated orifice.

[JFScheck]

Where are your fittings - nothing like this on my P3...

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by JFScheck

Where are your fittings - nothing like this on my P3...

I'm sure there are if you look harder,

[Jammer]

The P3 does have zerks for the spring bars but they do not hold the bars in place. The P3 way of doing things involves a slot cut in the bushing and the spring arm and a steel disk the size and shape of a Tums tablet that fits in both slots. The bushings are then attached to the head with a bolt, and the zerks don't do anything but provide a way to grease the assembly.

On my ppppp the spring bars were miscut, a common enough problem that Propride already had some larger metal "tablets" made up. They sent them out. Macht nichts.

[Olie]

To adjust the the Zerk fitting go to the Hensley web site and find the hitch manual. Under "Installation of Spring Bars" there are instructions for adjusting the retainer pin.

[AirHeadsRus]

It just says adjust as needed. No reference as to what is correct. Just do not screw in to far.
I get that part.

[Olie]

Originally Posted by AirHeadsRus

It just says adjust as needed. No reference as to what is correct. Just do not screw in to far.
I get that part.

Some where in the manual I remember it saying to screw the Zerk in with your fingers until you feel it just contact the spring bar, then back it out 1 to 1 1/2 turns. I tried to find this instruction but was unable to locate it. All it says now is to turn the Zerk 1/2 turns at a time until the spring bar wont fall out.
The main caution, as you mentioned, is to make sure the threaded portion of the Zerk does not extend into the bushing housing.

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Not sure how how fireproof it is, BUT....stick your longest finger up the hole and push the springy head in 'til it's flush with the wall of a well lubricated orifice.

That's how I do mine...once I get to that point, I set the lock nut as a reference then remove the assembly. Grease the end of the bar...stuff it in the bushing and insert the zerk assembly back to the point where the lock nut stops it.

Just over 10,000 miles on the same set of zerk fittings with no issue.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

That's how I do mine...once I get to that point, I set the lock nut as a reference then remove the assembly. Grease the end of the bar...stuff it in the bushing and insert the zerk assembly back to the point where the lock nut stops it.

Just over 10,000 miles on the same set of zerk fittings with no issue.

Same here...never had to change mine either, and the whole Arrow gets put in the quiver thru the WNY winter plus the bars come off at least once a season for cleaning..