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Old 09-21-2017, 08:24 AM   #201
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Originally Posted by bigmike19 View Post
I am being told by an AS dealer that ProPride, and maybe others, could require modifications to the propane tank cover. Could anyone comment on this?
This and many other comments by AS dealers are really based on the fact that they want to sell you a hitch that they can make a bunch of $$ on.

As for modifications to the tank cover? There was no modification required to our trailer or to any other trailers I've seen these hitched install on.

Hope this helps

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Old 09-21-2017, 09:14 AM   #202
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No mods required for my HAHA and my 30' Classic.
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Old 09-22-2017, 05:18 AM   #203
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Nonsense! No modifications required for my FC 27. The "towers" that contain the adjustment mechanism for tensioning the spring bars are located behind the propane tanks. If you have a front storage compartment, these "towers" do interfere with the opening of the door to that compartment. You can't open it fully. I keep all the hitch tools, chocks, garden hose and 3 collapsible chairs in there and can get them in and out. So it's not too bad.
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Old 09-22-2017, 06:27 AM   #204
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I will add that I did modify my Hensley Jack brackets. It had nothing to do with fitting to the AS though. I needed a bit more tongue real estate in order to mount my Arvika bike rack posts, so I trimmed off some of the jack bracket flanges several years ago. Worked fine.
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Old 09-22-2017, 06:49 AM   #205
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Perhaps the dealer was talking about the propane bottle tray and not the cover? The tray needed to be raised on my 23FB to make room for the frame bracket u-bolts.
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Old 09-22-2017, 06:58 AM   #206
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Perhaps the dealer was talking about the propane bottle tray and not the cover? The tray needed to be raised on my 23FB to make room for the frame bracket u-bolts.
This is for PP, I assume? I seem to recall some folks just drilling the U bolt holes through the tray floor, with the top of the "U" clamping the tray to the frame rail. Was there a gap between your tray and the top of the frame rail?
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Old 09-22-2017, 07:00 AM   #207
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My cover was fine, but the tray the tanks sit in/on was mounted where I also needed to install U-bolts over the frame. Two options: move the tanks a little or drill holes through the tank tray. I didn't have room to move them (battery box right behind and jack mounted right in front), so I drilled holes in the tank tray without any issues at all. Not at all significant to the process. I think I'd say I only had a mild interaction with the tank tray relative to the overall process. FWIW, I installed mine in a campground. Really straightforward, and the instructions are thorough and include all tools and steps necessary.
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Old 09-22-2017, 07:05 AM   #208
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
This is for PP, I assume? I seem to recall some folks just drilling the U bolt holes through the tray floor, with the top of the "U" clamping the tray to the frame rail. Was there a gap between your tray and the top of the frame rail?
Yes, a PP. No, I created a gap for the U-bolts. I could have drilled the tray or put spacers to make room for the U-bolts. It seemed most people used spacers so that's what I did. Either way, not a big deal.
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Old 09-22-2017, 10:31 AM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmike19 View Post
I am being told by an AS dealer that ProPride, and maybe others, could require modifications to the propane tank cover. Could anyone comment on this?


No mods required on mine. 2015 purchase date.

I had the PP on my 2016 27' FC and then had Colonial move it to my 2016 30' FC.
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Old 09-23-2017, 08:03 AM   #210
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We were planning on mounting four Lifeline AGM batteries behind the Propane tank, so I had to install the PP towers as close as possible to the propane tanks. I did notch the base plate to fit around the welds of the tray and also shortened one of the round rub rails. I sent photos to Sean before doing the mods and he said they were fine.
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Old 09-28-2017, 12:18 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoResults View Post
This must be a joke. You expect the majority of owners would want to spend 8 hours of there time just to assemble the hitch, then have a couple of friends to lift it into place only to discover you don't have your sledge hammer handly to get it at the proper angle etc. How much does the stinger weigh? I am sure most people don't want to drive around with it when not using the trailer.


If this is such a great product why can't the manufacturer ship it assembled? We don't have to buy a "Heath Kit) to assemble a radio to listen to music.



Why if this is such a great product, don't the manufacturer make it user friendly? From what I am reading it is anything but. What do you do if you (mostly men) have a emergency while away? Can the average woman hook this up. Not likely unless she went to pro0pride U.


I will stick with my Equalizer rated number 1 by Trailer Life Magazine many years in a row.


Dave

The above surley has to be satire...

However, I'm not sure if the average woman can hook it up because all my customers are well above average. Many of them female.

I'm not sure where you got 8 hours from but every single time you unhitch and hitch you uninstall and install the Equalizer hitch. 50 times a year at 10 minutes is 500 minutes... maybe that's the 8 hours?


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Old 09-29-2017, 12:42 AM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff View Post
The above surley has to be satire...

However, I'm not sure if the average woman can hook it up because all my customers are well above average. Many of them female.

I'm not sure where you got 8 hours from but every single time you unhitch and hitch you uninstall and install the Equalizer hitch. 50 times a year at 10 minutes is 500 minutes... maybe that's the 8 hours?


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What I find amazing is how it isn't simply accepted as fact that these hitches are the safest and most stable conventional hitches on the market bar none, and everything else is a degree of compromise.

Hitch assembly is a breeze, but if it took eight hours, (it doesn't), it would be worth the investment in time anyway.
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Old 09-29-2017, 10:29 AM   #213
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Sean, I am sure the Pro Pride is a good hitch. I had been following this thread out of educating myself about other hitches. I had read earlier in this forum that a user was frustrated that it took him eight hours to install.

Without seeing your product I should not have commented.

It just appears to me that unless you have a lot of time, floor jack and help it would be difficult to install my yourself.

I am sure you have a good product and will work well.

Dave
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Old 09-29-2017, 10:41 AM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoResults View Post
Sean, I am sure the Pro Pride is a good hitch. I had been following this thread out of educating myself about other hitches. I had read earlier in this forum that a user was frustrated that it took him eight hours to install.

Without seeing your product I should not have commented.

It just appears to me that unless you have a lot of time, floor jack and help it would be difficult to install my yourself.

I am sure you have a good product and will work well.

Dave

Thanks.

I tell people it's a 3-hour job. I can install one in under an hour and be ready to tow but I obviously don't have to read the directions.

And, like I said, there is no more uninstalling and installing components every time you unhitch and hitch. Once the 3P is installed, it's installed and stays installed.




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Old 09-29-2017, 11:26 AM   #215
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It just appears to me that unless you have a lot of time, floor jack and help it would be difficult to install my yourself.
You have a jack. It's mounted on your trailer tongue. If you don't have a floor jack, an auto parts store, or any friends, you could always put the yoke on a block under the tongue and lower the trailer on to the ball just like you do on a truck. Lock the ball, and the yoke will stay there while you lift the tongue back up.

These all seems like easily handled issues that should not factor into your choice of a hitch system. Like choosing what house you want to buy based on the paint color in the living room.

You only have to install it once. You have to live with your choice for a lot longer.
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Old 09-29-2017, 11:43 AM   #216
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I installed my ProPride with minor help from young adult daughter. I'm old, fat and tired, and it only took a couple hours, not counting the time to read the instructions thoroughly a couple times. A bottle jack and a floor jack were convenient to lift and hold the heavier bits in place while I torqued fasteners.

The difference in handling between my old Husky WD only hitch (sold by dealer). Was day and night. As far as I am concerned it was the way to go. Peace of mind is priceless where family safety is concerned.
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Old 09-29-2017, 08:10 PM   #217
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
No mods required for my HAHA and my 30' Classic.
No mods required for my PPP and 17 Classic.

The "unofficial Pro pride" thread, while years old, was started shortly after Sean made the move to Pro Pride. I went back recently and started reading from the beginning; learned a lot, and I'm on my second PPP on a second trailer. Lots of real experience there with every variation on the theme.
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Old 11-01-2017, 05:31 PM   #218
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I am installing the Propride hitch. The UBolt on one side is right underneath the LP tank tray. Looks like I just need to raise it up some. What did some of you use to do that? And is there any problem putting the tank cover back on? Thanks
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Old 11-02-2017, 08:52 AM   #219
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I believe mine was under the tank, but the tank frame was such that it cleared the bolt interference.
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Old 11-07-2017, 03:53 PM   #220
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Raised tank support frame...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daquenzer View Post
I am installing the Propride hitch. The UBolt on one side is right underneath the LP tank tray. Looks like I just need to raise it up some. What did some of you use to do that? And is there any problem putting the tank cover back on? Thanks
I was not that thrilled with the existing clearances for wiring around the tank tray that was bolted to the frame with 4 #14 Lag Screws, so I used the fact that the brackets were best positioned under the tray ( and since this is a very heavy duty tray, I also didn’t feel like drilling 4 “largish” holes in it) as an excuse to raise it 5/8” (diameter of bracket u-bolt) . Did this by using both u-bolt’s (with layer of flex-seal tape and four additional stacks of 7 ~2” fender washers wrapped on edge with flex seal, for a new total of 6-#14 Lag screws into the frame. Next post commenting on ProPride install will have a photo. BTW, my not so scientific, but fun, test for verify the strength of the install was to jump up and down on it before I put the tanks on. Nothing even remotely budged, so we are good to go . And.... no problem putting cover back on
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