Having trouble finding hitch

[Allegroman]

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

Amazon and Google can be your two best friends.

Yes, they can be. This evening using Google, I ran across an ad for an '89 brougham. The description said it had a hidden Class III hitch. I sent the guy an email, asking if he would consider selling me just the hitch. If he would, then most of my problem would be solved. I know I could get someone here in town to help me mount it and also wire the vehicle for a 7-pin plug. Keeping my fingers crossed...

[drboyd]

Whatever you do, please avoid U-Haul. I was at the Factory Store in Tempe trying to get a new 2-5/8" hitch ball, and it was like the three stooges minus two. The store manager was unable to remove my old ball*, and literally did not know what a pipe wrench was.

Inexcusable. And that's not the worst U-Haul story you'll hear.

*I finally got the old ball off myself. Bunch'a dummies!!

[Allegroman]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

This thread may give you some ideas about what you are looking for.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...itch-8578.html

I suggest you should go to the local Yellow Pages and lookup welding shops that specialize in truck and heavy equipment repairs. Call a few shops and you will most likely find or get direction to at least one or two local business that will build custom hitches.

Another suggestion: Andy from CanAmRV is a hitching specialist, a member of this forum. You might contact him. I hear he is generous with his advice.

I do have a lead on a local welder. I really am hesitant to go this route unless I have complete faith in the person. This hitch has to look great when it is completed, not like something that was just slapped together. Also spoke with a trailer hitch specialist company today. Since a class III hitch is apparently not produced any more, he suggested that I purchase a class II hitch, which has a 1 1/4" tube receiver. Then get a fabricator to cut out the window 1/4" tube and replace it with a 2" tube (class III), then reinforce around the tube to make sure everything is solid. I am thinking this would allow the main hitch body to be mounted directly to the car via pre-drilled holes from the factory. Just concerned about the strength of the hitch. It needs to support a tongue weight somewhere between 680-800 lbs., depending on the trailer model. Any thoughts from people on this scenario?

Regarding CanAm, I have been in communication with Philip for the past two weeks. If I lived close to Canada, I would have my car in their parking lot tomorrow. Superb bunch of folks there. Philip related that they had a customer back in the day that used a Brougham to tow a 1996 Airstream Limited 30' with no problems. Said he used to travel each January through February. I know if I set up the car properly, I can achieve similar results.

[Allegroman]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

I didn't know Caddy and AS did some tag teaming!

What do you that trailer weighed?

I think that rig looks very cool 😀

That picture shows exactly what I would like to do! The towing package on the '92 models was rated at 7000 lbs. For the small upgrade towing package cost, the vehicle was beefed up in many ways...heavier suspension, bigger 5.7 liter engine, heavy duty alternator, and the really important piece, a posi-traction rear end with a 3.73 final drive, which gave much better low end power as opposed to the standard 3.08 rear end. Gas mileage, though, was reduced by 1 to 1 1/2 miles per gallon with the 3.73 vs. the 3.08.

[Allegroman]

Originally Posted by Jim Arnold

Call Curt hitches. They are a great company and you can purchase the product at any NAPA Parts Store!!

Did that today. Worked with a trailer hitch specialty company. They called Curt directly. Curt does not make a hitch for the rear drive Brougham. The search continues...

[Allegroman]

Originally Posted by m.hony

I'm thinking his Cadillac is the Fleetwood Brougham body style prior to the "bubble" Fleetwood, Roadmaster, and Caprice.
The last of the "elegant" Cadillacs, as referenced by its name "d"Elegance"-
The basic body style began with the 1977 "downsizing" with a refresh in '81 or so.
The '90-'92 was a little different with the cladding below the beltline and the one piece "Euro" look headlights.
These are very attractive cars.
As far as I'm concerned when Cadillac discontinued production of this particular body style they could have closed the factory and quit manufacturing Cadillacs.
This is the last "real" Cadillac.

You are correct. The 1990-92 Broughams were the last version of what was the longest run for a production luxury car in America. This last version was commonly referred to as the Euro version, due to its use of large halogen front lights as opposed to the quad lights used in the 80-89 models. Some prefer the quad look, but I do like the halogens, combined with the lower clad molding. Riding in one of these cars is like sitting on a comfortable sofa at home, only you've got six feet of American steel in front of you to serve as a crash zone if needed.

[Allegroman]

Originally Posted by drboyd

Whatever you do, please avoid U-Haul. I was at the Factory Store in Tempe trying to get a new 2-5/8" hitch ball, and it was like the three stooges minus two. The store manager was unable to remove my old ball*, and literally did not know what a pipe wrench was.

Inexcusable. And that's not the worst U-Haul story you'll hear.

*I finally got the old ball off myself. Bunch'a dummies!!

Thanks for the heads up. Hadn't really planned on going the U-haul route. Have had my own less than desirable experiences with them. To be fair, though, the store I visited this past Sunday was top notch. Very competent staff.

[AWCHIEF]

I once bought and had installed a hitch on a small pickup at uhaul. Took them 4 hours for the job. Got home and found that they had only installed half the mounting bolts and had buggered up most the other bolts by forcing them into the wrong holes and cross threading the threads using air tools. Went back to the store and had them remove the hitch and got a refund. Bought a replacement from the old original JC Whitney. Once delivered took less than an hour to install at 1/3 the uhaul price. I do not blame uhaul just the idiots at my local one.

[63air]

Try one of the Cadillac forums or as a last resort a want ad in Hemmings Motor News. I think a factory hitch would be much better looking . I'm looking for a hitch for my 1970 Cutlass wagon but have not had time to really go after one as I'm in the middle of building a new house .

[overlander64]

Greetings Allegroman!

Welcome to the Forums and the world of Airstreaming!

Originally Posted by Allegroman

My problem is finding a hitch. Every place I have looked, they say I need a custom hitch. Then when I ask, where there is a local company, no one knows anyone. The only place I have been able to find is a company in Ontario, Canada, but that is a long way from Fort Worth, Texas. Has anyone had a similar problem, and if so,, what recommendation might you offer.

Thanks for considering this request.

Allegroman

I was in a similar situation a few years ago with my 1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible. Tried RV dealerships galore, places advertised as hitch specialty shops, and various hitch manufacturers representatives with no luck. I was about to give up when I visited a nearby farm implement shop -- they had a welder with years of hitch building experience and he built a custom receiver hitch from Reese parts that looks factory while being less obvious than the typical bolt-on hitches. The photo below shows the hitch set-up and ready for its first 2,000 mile tour:



Had I not been able to find the farm implement shop that was willing to do the work, friends in the Kansas oil fields suggested that an oil field service company may also have a welder experienced in hitch building.

Good luck with your search for a proper hitch!

Kevin

[Allegroman]

Originally Posted by overlander64

Greetings Allegroman!

Welcome to the Forums and the world of Airstreaming!



I was in a similar situation a few years ago with my 1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible. Tried RV dealerships galore, places advertised as hitch specialty shops, and various hitch manufacturers representatives with no luck. I was about to give up when I visited a nearby farm implement shop -- they had a welder with years of hitch building experience and he built a custom receiver hitch from Reese parts that looks factory while being less obvious than the typical bolt-on hitches. The photo below shows the hitch set-up and ready for its first 2,000 mile tour:



Had I not been able to find the farm implement shop that was willing to do the work, friends in the Kansas oil fields suggested that an oil field service company may also have a welder experienced in hitch building.

Good luck with your search for a proper hitch!

Kevin

Thanks so much for your help. Since you have had experience using your Cadillac to tow, I have a few questions for you. I assume your Eldorado had the Cadillac 500 engine, so it had little problems moving itself and the trailer down the road. Did you complete any rear suspension modifications to accommodate the hitch weight, or did you leave the rear air suspension/coil springs as it came from the manufacturer? If you did leave the suspension as is, did you experience any issues with the air level system overworking or malfunctioning due to the increased tongue weight? With your trailer attached and your equalizer properly set up, did the car ride level or did it have a tendency for the rear of the car to squat? Also, did you make changes to the type rear tires (as in higher capacity load) you used, once you set up the car to tow?

Regarding the actual frabrication of the hitch, I am afraid you may be correct...most likely I will need to find a welder with hitch experience. You mention that your guy used Reese parts. Did you actually purchase a type III Reese hitch and then have him modify it? It sounds from your description that he didn't simply bolt it on, but possibly welded the hitch to the frame. Is this accurate? I can see where this would add addition strength to the hitch if done properly.

Thanks again for your thoughtful help. In the end, did your car perform as expected and to your satisfaction? In essence, the drivetrain you used could easily stack up against a 1/2 ton pickup of the day. Actually, it probably exceeded it, since that 500 engine developed so much low end torque. :-)

[PKI]

Originally Posted by AWCHIEF

I once bought and had installed a hitch on a small pickup at uhaul. Took them 4 hours for the job. Got home and found that they had only installed half the mounting bolts and had buggered up most the other bolts by forcing them into the wrong holes and cross threading the threads using air tools. Went back to the store and had them remove the hitch and got a refund. Bought a replacement from the old original JC Whitney. Once delivered took less than an hour to install at 1/3 the uhaul price. I do not blame uhaul just the idiots at my local one.

Similar experience - used a U-haul shop near work and it was hanging free after the first tow. Local shop installed it correctly and made it right. Not all their folks are qualified to do the work they attempt. Only use a shop that you know does a lot of hitch work.

Since you are towing a treasure, I'd have it welded. If it's good enough for the long long yellow trailer, you cant go wrong.

Travel safe. Pat

[Allegroman]

It's been a while, but I wanted to give an update. After all the research and coming up empty handed trying to find local artisans to build a custom hitch, I bit the bullet and traveled to London, Ontario, Canada to have Can Am RV do their magic. It was very much worth the 5-day round trip. I was able to talk with Andy at length about towing issues, including suspension and rear end set up. The custom hitch uses some 60 pounds of steel and a combination of bolts and welds. Their shop had done hundreds of similar set ups back in the day, so it was nice to draw upon this vast knowledge to ensure that my hitch would work well. The shop also installed a new trailer brake dash module and wired the vehicle for a 7-pin plug, which is stored in the trunk when not in use. This makes the receiving hitch look less cluttered. I insert a billeted aluminum hitch plug with the script word "Cadillac" when not towing. It really dresses up the receiving hitch a great deal.

Thanks again for the many helpful suggestions as I sought out the best plan of action. Today, the car is getting its rear end rebuilt...new Alloy higher strength axles, Eaton Detroit trutrac differential, 3.42 ring and pinion final drive, super duty Moog U-joint, and a B&M aluminum finned differential cover. In addition, the transmission is receiving a new heavy duty oil cooler. Once this is done, the car is ready for towing. The optional final step may be rebuilding the engine so that horsepower and torque are both in the 350 range, but I may wait a bit before moving ahead on this idea.