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Old 06-01-2012, 08:28 PM   #21
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"I also use the grease in the bar sockets on the Equalizer hitch head. Keeps it a little quieter and should reduce wear; none on the other end of the bars."

Gene why not on the other end?

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Old 06-01-2012, 08:38 PM   #22
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I put a bit of wheel-bearing grease on all rub points -- in spite of the Reese instructions. But, then, we use that system primarily for weight distribution, not sway control. (For sway control, we use one of the friction devices, and even then it's really tight only if we're on some higher-speed highway like an interstate.)

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Old 06-01-2012, 09:33 PM   #23
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I am curious to know if any one puts a light coat of grease on the ball and sway bars. I have a Reese hitch.

Thanks

John
You MUST grease the Ball. regular bearing grease will work.

Which Reese hitch do you have?
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:15 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by urnmor View Post
"I also use the grease in the bar sockets on the Equalizer hitch head. Keeps it a little quieter and should reduce wear; none on the other end of the bars."

Gene why not on the other end?

John
Because I think that's where the anti-sway/friction happens. Equalizer sells a lubricant for that and claims it doesn't have any reduction in anti-sway.

Some people use it because they don't like the noise.

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Old 06-03-2012, 08:36 AM   #25
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Direct replacement

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Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
If I didn't think the lettering would smear off, I'd clean the bottle up and post a picture of it. It's good stuff, but very few "modern" Airstreamers know about it. Of course, now that it's gone, it doesn't matter so much, other than from a historical perspective.
Okay, on edit, I cleaned up the bottle a bit, and here are a couple of photos of it, in case you ever see any at a swap meet:
I had some that was handed down to me and is some great stuff, I have found a replacement that is actually better and stays put where it belongs it is Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease in a 10 oz. Tube. Have used it for over 8 years and am very happy with the results. Have pulled to Alaska and back 5 times and never been let down. This stuff is a deep black due to the Moly incorporated, The thing about the moly is that it embeds itself into the grain of the metal and gives a superior lubricity point. Its high temp and stays put where it belongs. Great product!
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Old 06-03-2012, 11:46 AM   #26
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Gene

Thanks

I also do no like the noise how ever I do not want anything to impair the anti sway capability so I will wipe the marine grease off that end but the noise is nerve wracking

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Old 06-03-2012, 11:51 AM   #27
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EQ does make nylon "bracket jackets" to put on the l-brackets. They do quiet things down a lot. See them here:

Equal-i-zer Hitch Store
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Old 06-03-2012, 12:16 PM   #28
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Since the thread has gone to Equal-I-zer noise....

I posted this info in another thread a while back, but many may not have seen it. I talked with an Equal-I-zer hitch user at a park a while back, and he showed me how he had drilled holes and added a couple of keeper clips to the top of the "L" clips, just above the bracket they go thru....the same kind of keeper clips as is used on the bottom of the "L's", and he reported it stopped all of the noise in the turns.

Just thought y'all might want to know.
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Old 06-03-2012, 12:17 PM   #29
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…the noise is nerve wracking…

John
Think of it saying to you in language hard to understand, "I'm doing what I'm supposed to do". Closing the window and turning on the radio also helps.

Gene
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:18 PM   #30
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The product that I refered to earlier for lubricating the hitchball and weight distribution bars, i.e., Sta-Lube’s SL3174 -- Constant Velocity (CV) Joint Grease, 4 Wt Oz</SPAN>. tube is described as: “A special lithium base grease fortified with molybdenum disulfide and polymers. It is used for the installation & repair work on CV joints. Will extend the life of the CV joint & the additives will sustain the shock loads encountered in the CV joints</SPAN>.”

It’s widely available in auto parts stores, and it works well for lubricating hitchball & WD bars.
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:44 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Kamiak View Post
The product that I refered to earlier for lubricating the hitchball and weight distribution bars, i.e., Sta-Lube’s SL3174 -- Constant Velocity (CV) Joint Grease, 4 Wt Oz</SPAN>. tube is described as: “A special lithium base grease fortified with molybdenum disulfide and polymers. It is used for the installation & repair work on CV joints. Will extend the life of the CV joint & the additives will sustain the shock loads encountered in the CV joints</SPAN>.”

It’s widely available in auto parts stores, and it works well for lubricating hitchball & WD bars.
I took a look at the make-up of the product and compared MSDS sheets and discovered that Sta-Lube has 2-4% Moly and Yamalube 35% Moly, I had used the Sta-Lube product on our boat and pwc's and it did not seem too last too long on the shafts and such (no immersion) switched over to the Yamalube that I had on hand and was surprised at the durability. Honda also provides a similar product but found that it is cost prohibitive!
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Old 06-03-2012, 06:54 PM   #32
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I also found CV joint lube to be not long lasting.
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:15 PM   #33
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Always game to try something better. I see it is $6.99 for the 10oz tube on Amazon...if I picked the right product. I'll give it a try.

Amazon.com: Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease 10 oz. Tube: Automotive
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Old 06-03-2012, 07:32 PM   #34
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I use a little motorcycle chain lube that contains molyd from a spray can that I have for our dirt bike.

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Old 06-03-2012, 08:26 PM   #35
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I use an Andersen "no sway" WD system, no grease required as the ball and the trailer move as one. Nice not to be getting grease all over everything every time I hitch up or unhitch.
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